Christmas cactus are succulents that are commonly grown as houseplants and are a popular holiday plant. Christmas cactuses are easy to find in mid-fall in garden centers and retailers, and their name comes from the time of year they bloom. They do require specific care to induce blooming, but they are otherwise extremely simple to maintain.
How do you take care of a Christmas cactus indoors?
- Watering: Mist your plant frequently while it is blooming to keep the soil uniformly moist.
- Light: For moderate light and some direct sun, place the cactus in an east-facing window.
- Fertilize every two weeks once buds have formed with a high-potassium fertilizer.
Do you water a Christmas cactus from the top or bottom?
Remember that Christmas cactus plants demand moist soil rather than the dry dirt preferred by most other succulents. When the top inch or two of soil on a Christmas cactus is dry, water it. Fill the pot saucer with stones and water to just below the tops of the pebbles (the pot should not be sitting directly in water) to assist improve the humidity around your plant. As the water evaporates, the air will become more humid. (See below for watering suggestions if you’re attempting to get your Christmas cactus to rebloom.)
Is a Christmas cactus actually a cactus?
While poinsettias remain the most popular Christmas holiday gift, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) is also a popular choice. Since the 1800s, Christmas Cacti have been kept as a festive plant. The original Christmas cactus was created by French botanist Charles Lemaire and named after Frédéric Schlumberger, a French horticulture collector. Although Schlumbergera is the true botanical name, they are more commonly referred to as Zygocactus, which was its previous name. The original hybrids blossomed over the Christmas season and sported cherry-red blossoms.
In the year 1819, the forerunners of today’s Christmas cactus were discovered in southeast Brazil. Schlumbergera truncata, the first to be discovered, blooms in October and November and is now known as the “Thanksgiving cactus.” Another, the Schlumbergera russelliana, was found in 1837 and is known as the “Easter cactus” because it blooms between February and April. The first “Christmas Cactus” was a cross between these two. Aside from blossoming at different times, these plants have somewhat distinct leaves. In contrast to Thanksgiving cactus, which have sharp teeth on the margins, Christmas cacti have flattened leaves with rounded teeth on the margins. The leaf joints of Easter cacti have pointy teeth and fibrous hairs.
There are around 300 hybrid types in various hues and combinations of white, pink, red, fuchsia, and less commonly orange and yellow. This plant belongs to a group of epiphytic cacti native to the South American rainforests, and it blooms in the winter. The plant isn’t a genuine cactus, and it’s not as drought-resistant as its name suggests. It is, however, a succulent plant that can store a significant amount of water in its leaves.
Christmas cacti aren’t only popular holiday gift plants; they’re also a source of heated discussion among gardeners. They can and do flourish for many years if properly cared for. Plants that are 40 or 50 years old are not uncommon to outlive their owners. Grandmother’s plant or Aunt Mary’s Christmas Cactus are two examples of plants that are frequently passed down to the next generation. During the yearly flowering phase, these long-lived plants will produce what appears to be bark and grow to be several feet tall with hundreds of blooms.
There appears to be a lot of misunderstanding about how to care for, maintain, and, most importantly, how to get these unusual tropical cacti to bloom again. The cultural prerequisites for all of the holiday cactus are the same. Cactus are known for their heat tolerance, however in lower temperatures, Christmas cacti will preserve their blossoms longer. The Christmas cactus prefers humid conditions, which are not often present in homes. Place the pot with the drip pan on top of a small container filled with pebbles to increase humidity for your cactus. Pour water over the pebbles, but not so much that the water rises above the top layer of stones. As the water evaporates, the humidity around the cactus rises. Keep the plant in a brightly lit area away from drafts caused by heat vents, fireplaces, or other hot air sources. Flower buds can be knocked off the plant by drafts and temperature fluctuations before they have a chance to open.
Because the Christmas cactus is a tropical plant, if the soil becomes too dry, it may shed bloom buds. Drought stress causes the plants to wilt. When the top inch or two of soil seems dry to the touch, water liberally. The amount of time between watering episodes is affected by air temperature, light, growth rate, and relative humidity.
Although the plant does not require fertilization while in bloom, most gardeners like the challenge of retaining the plant after the holidays in order to re-bloom the following year. Use a blooming houseplant fertilizer and follow the package guidelines for how much and how often to feed while the plants are actively growing.
While the Christmas cactus can adapt to low light, plants that have been exposed to higher light intensities produce more flowers. Indoors, place your plants in a bright spot. In the summer, you can bring your plants outside, but make sure they’re in a shady or semi-shady spot. If leaves are exposed to too much light, they may turn crimson. Overexposure to direct sunlight can cause the leaves to scorch or become limp. When it’s time to bring the plants back inside in the fall, gradually increase the number of hours they spend indoors each day to acclimate them to life indoors.
If your plant is constantly drying out and/or wilting, it’s time to repot it into a little larger container. Christmas cacti flower best when they’re confined to a small pot; however, don’t go too big with the pot size.
Christmas cactus require well-drained soil. For succulent plants, use a commercially available potting mix or make your own by mixing two parts ordinary potting soil with one part clean sand or vermiculite. After your Christmas cactus has bloomed, prune it to encourage it to branch out. Pinch off a few parts of each stem with your fingers or cut them off with a sharp knife. To grow new plants, these portions can be rooted in damp vermiculite.
The Christmas cactus is a thermo-photoperiodic plant that blooms at different times of the year. The bud’s formation is influenced by a certain mix of day length and temperature. When the length of the day is nearly equal to the length of the night in the Northern Hemisphere, and the temperature is in the region of 50 to 60 degrees F, these plants will begin to bloom. If you give the Christmas cactus extended, unbroken dark periods, about 12 hours each night, it will blossom. Start applying the dark treatments in mid-October to ensure that the plants are fully bloomed by the holidays. You can keep the plants in a dark closet from 8 p.m. to 8 a.m. every night for 6-8 weeks, or until buds appear. Cool temperatures of about 50 to 55 degrees F will also cause Christmas cacti to bloom, obviating the need for the dark treatments. If chilly treatments are started by early November, plants should be blooming in time for the holidays. Happy Holidays and Happy Gardening!!
Are Christmas plants succulents?
The Christmas cactus is a popular houseplant for a reason: it’s beautiful! They produce gorgeous, tubular flowers in pink or lilac colors when they bloom. They’re a fantastic plant because of their lovely blossoms, long bloom time, and low maintenance requirements. We’re sure you have a Christmas cactus in your household!
About Christmas Cacti
The Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi) and its cousins do not live in hot, arid conditions like deserts or plains, unlike other cacti. These epiphytic succulents are native to southern Brazil’s tropical rainforests, where they grow on tree branches and absorb the high humidity, dappled sunlight, and moderate temperatures.
The bottom line is that you shouldn’t treat a Christmas cactus like any other cactus or succulent. They can’t withstand the same hot, dry circumstances as other cactus. These cacti require more frequent watering than most succulents, but you must be careful not to overwater them. (For more information, see the thorough care instructions below.)
Thanksgiving, Easter, or Christmas Cactus?
Easter cactus (S. gaertneri), Thanksgiving cactus (S. truncata), and Christmas cactus are the three primary types of “holiday” cacti (S. x buckleyi). Each holiday cactus blooms closest to the holiday for which it is named. Most “Christmas cacti” offered nowadays, on the other hand, are actually Thanksgiving cacti, which bloom from November to February and hence go unrecognized as Christmas cacti. See our post on the different types of holiday cacti and how to identify them apart for more information.
Note: On this page, we use the word “Christmas cactus” to refer to all three of these species because it is the most generally used term and our care advice applies to all of them!
What triggers a Christmas cactus to bloom?
Thanksgiving cactus, holiday cactus, and crab cactus are all names for the Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata). The leaf-shaped stem segments with curled, sharp teeth or claws around the margins are known as crab claws. The leaf segments of the Easter cactus (Schlumbergera buckleyi) have rounded edges. They all originated in the gloomy, damp forests of southeast Brazil. They’re called epiphytes because they thrive on trees above ground, in places where branches meet and decomposing fallen leaves and mosses collect.
Despite the fact that this plant is called a cactus, the care it requires has little to do with its desert cousins. It’s a cactus that grows in the forest. Its requirements can be traced back to their source. The optimum time to plant a Christmas cactus is when it is warm “I’m stuck in a pot.” This entails keeping it in a small container for as long as possible before transferring it to a little larger pot. They prefer a nutrient-dense organic potting mix and should not be allowed to dry out. When the plant is blossoming, increase the amount of water it receives. They enjoy indirect light that is bright. As the plants begin to burn, the leaf segments might turn a dark crimson color.
‘The’ “The “secret” to getting your Christmas cactus to bloom in the years after you buy it boils down to two factors: light and temperature. These two are the keys to the kingdom of flowers. Flowers are produced by Christmas cacti in a chilly, short-day cycle. It takes at least eight days of 16 hours of darkness and 8 hours of light every day to start the creation of flower buds. Do not turn on the lights at night, even if only for a brief time, wherever the plant is put. This violates the required dark cycle. It should be around 61 degrees Fahrenheit. Avoid placing the plant in an area where it will be exposed to cold or hot air drafts.
It’s as simple as putting the Christmas cactus on the window sill in a chilly room and not turning on the lights. If the plant was in a brightly lit room, the side closest to the window often grows buds, but the plant’s illuminated side does not. If the plant produces flower buds but then loses them, it’s usually due to either too much or too little water or a lack of air humidity. The good news is that if their temperature and light needs are met, Christmas cacti are reasonably straightforward to re-bloom.
How long do Christmas cactus live?
With good cause, the Christmas cactus may be found all over throughout the holiday season. It’s a blooming succulent that’s easy to care for, has beautiful blossoms, and may survive for up to 100 years if properly cared for! That’s correct! This plant can last for decades, giving your holidays a splash of color for generations. That’s a fairly good return on investment for a plant as simple and low-maintenance as the Christmas cactus!
Should I mist a Christmas cactus?
Christmas cacti, contrary to popular belief, may live much beyond the month of December. With a little TLC and some advise from us, they can live for up to 20 years.
Christmas Cacti need cooler temperatures.
If you keep your Christmas cacti in a room that’s between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit, they’ll bloom more and faster. It’s especially vital to keep them away from radiators, fires, and warm windowsills in the winter.
While they don’t need the heat of the sun, they do need its light.
This is when things get a little complicated. The sun will dry up a Christmas cactus if it is left in direct sunlight, although it does require lots of sunlight. So, what should a cactus aficionado do? Leave it in a somewhat shaded location of your house (or outside once summer arrives) and rotate it every now and then.
Just like you and I, Christmas cacti need their rest.
If the buds on your cactus haven’t set yet, it will require 1215 hours of complete darkness per day. Cacti flourish in bright light only once their buds have set.
You should be misting, not watering, every day.
Your cactus will die if it is overwatered. That isn’t to suggest they don’t become thirsty. You should mist your cactus every day instead of watering it like you would a typical plant. All you need is a few squirts from a spray bottle to keep your cactus happy. Watering the plant’s base should only be done when the soil is absolutely dry to the touch.
Christmas cacti need nutrient-rich soil.
Christmas cactus are resilient plants that may thrive in a variety of soils, but they need well-drained, somewhat organic matter-rich soil. While you can always buy organic soil, you may also use your cacti as a little compost and add organic materials that would otherwise be discarded.
Should you deadhead Christmas cactus?
Deadheading cactus flowers can promote additional blooms and encourage growth while also tidying up the cactus. While not necessary for all cacti because some cactus flowers drop from the plant once they are spent, deadheading cactus flowers can promote additional blooms and encourage growth while also tidying up the cactus. While the Christmas cactus is in bloom, deadheading can be done at any time during the growing season.
Why are the leaves on my Christmas cactus limp?
A lack of water or too much direct sunlight can create wilted or limp Christmas cactus. If you haven’t watered the wilting Christmas cactus, start by giving it a small sip. Continue to water gently every several days until the soil is wet but not saturated.
Christmas cactus troubles are sometimes caused by damp soil. Because the Christmas cactus is an epiphyte that takes water and nutrients from the air in its natural habitat on the tropical forest floor, it cannot tolerate damp roots. Christmas cactus can become very limp because to poor drainage and damp roots.
If the leaves on your wilted or limp Christmas cactus appear to be dried or burnt, move it to a more shady location, especially in the afternoon.