In addition to their scientific name, houseplants have a variety of colloquial names. Elephant’s Ear, Mother-in-Law Plant, Candidum, Stoplight, and many other names have been given to Caladium. The distinguishing feature of this attractive but dangerous houseplant is its green, heart-shaped leaves with pinkish-red splotches. Chewing on Caladium produces acute irritation and swelling of the mouth, tongue, and throat in both dogs and cats, as calcium crystals induce soft tissue injury. Excessive drooling, vomiting, and trouble swallowing may also occur; if you see any of the following symptoms, call your veterinarian.
Are all caladiums poisonous?
Caladium plants are deadly in all sections, especially to children and many types of pets. Poisoning has the potential to be fatal. If a kid has eaten the plant, call 911 or the National Poison Control Center.
Are Caladium leaves edible?
Several varieties have been cultivated in Europe since the late 18th century for their big, arrowhead-shaped leaves that are patterned in different patterns of white, pink, and red (much resembling the unrelated coleus). “Fancy-leaved” and “lance-leaved” are the two most widely cultivated varieties. The former is the more frequent and traditional caladium of cultivation, with larger heart-shaped leaves. The latter has leaves that are more lance-shaped. Although miniature variants are available in development, most Caladiums in cultivation grow to around 24 inches (60 cm) high and 24 inches (60 cm) broad.
Several cultivars have been chosen, the majority of which are descended from C. bicolor. Many are sold under the name C. hortulanem, which is a synonym for C. bicolor. C. schomburgkii is also the source of the lance-leaved variants.
Caladiums are tuber plants that may be grown by dividing them. They’re only hardy to USDA plant hardiness zone 10, thus they’re usually planted as sensitive “bulb” plants or houseplants in colder climates.
They demand modest watering during their growing season (damp, not soggy). Although sun-resistant variants are now being cultivated, most kinds prefer partial to full shade. Around 98 percent of all caladium “bulbs” come from Lake Placid, Florida. Many new types have emerged in recent years as a result of breeding, and they are now largely disease resistant. The majority of “bulb” production is sold to pot producers, who then sell potted caladiums to local nurseries for immediate planting. Most “bulb” growers also sell straight to consumers via their websites, and “bulbs” are shipped in the spring when the weather permits (“bulbs” are subject to damage if temperatures are too low).
They should be lifted before the first frost in temperate zones. When temperatures drop to 65 °F (18 °C), the tubers are dried and stored for the winter, and stored fairly dry (not bone-dry) at temperatures between 56 °F (13 °C) to 61 °F (16 °C).
The plant is harmful in all sections. They should not be consumed and may irritate skin that is already sensitive.
What if my cat eats a caladium?
The problem should be regarded as a medical emergency if a substantial amount of elephant ear has been consumed. Immediately take your cat to a veterinary clinic or an animal hospital. Prepare to supply the cat’s complete medical history, as this may be required to demonstrate that the cat’s illness is due to poisoning rather than a pre-existing health issue. If you noticed the cat eating a plant but aren’t sure what it was, bring a small sample to the veterinarian so he or she can identify it. It’s possible that you’ll be asked if your cat is allowed outside and what kind of plants you have in your garden.
The veterinarian will then conduct a physical examination on the cat to determine the degree of the poisoning. Treatment may be initiated to stabilize the cat’s vital functions before a diagnosis is made if the cat’s vital functions are affected. A complete blood count and a biochemical profile will be performed on the cat’s blood to determine the amount of electrolytes remaining in the bloodstream. Urinalysis can be used to determine how well the kidneys are working. The vet may notice anomalies in the heartbeat and respiration when listening to the heart and lungs with a stethoscope.
Is Begonia toxic to cats?
Begonia spp. is the scientific name for the plant Begonia spp. In dogs and cats, clinical signs include kidney failure (in grazing animals), vomiting, and salivation. The most hazardous area is underground.
Are Succulents toxic to cats?
One of the challenges of having pets and plants is figuring out how to make an environment that is safe for both. Fortunately, the majority of succulents are entirely safe for animals to eat.
Succulents are also naturally avoided by most animals. They don’t smell or taste particularly appealing. Consider Los Angeles, which is densely forested with Jade Plants. Jade is slightly poisonous, and there are more than a hundred varieties.
Although there are 2.6 million cats and dogs in the city, it is quite rare for a pet to try to eat it.
There are a few exceptions to this rule that are somewhat hazardous if consumed. As a responsible pet owner, you should
It’s critical to understand which house plants are safe and which may cause problems if consumed by a curious cat or dog. For more information, continue reading or watch the video.
Is monstera toxic to cats?
Some of your indoor plants aren’t safe if you have dogs or small children, which is a sad but inevitable revelation in the road of plant parenthood. Many common houseplant genera are toxic in some form or another, whether mildly or seriously. Others, far worse, can irritate the skin if handled too much.
The good news is that with a little forethought, you can figure out which hazardous houseplants to avoid, assess the risk to your pets and family, and yet have a lively and beautiful indoor plant collection.
Here are ten toxic houseplants that, while we love them, should be used with caution if your children or pets will have access to them. But first, a word of caution: “toxic” is a relative term, and the intensity of a reaction will depend on the degree of exposure (amount consumed), the plant species, and your pet’s specific characteristics. Some poisonous houseplants cause short-term symptoms (such as vomiting). Others irritate the skin, while others might have more serious, life-threatening consequences if swallowed in large quantities. This is by no means an entire list, and we strongly advise you to conduct additional study (ASPCA has a great database for pet owners).
Poisonous Houseplants for Pet Owners and Parents to Avoid
Starting with one of the biggest names, Philodendron is a vast genus of tropical plants with a wide range of growing habits, leaf forms, and colors that make it ideal for indoor use. Plants in this genus are somewhat harmful to humans, as well as to dogs and cats. Oral irritation, soreness and swelling of the mouth, tongue, and lips, excessive drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing are all symptoms of exposure.
Because of the shape of the leaves, members of this genus, which is linked to the philodendron, are commonly referred to as Arrow-head vine. The symptoms of exposure are identical to those stated above for Philodendrons, despite the fact that it is only mildly poisonous.
The Zamioculcas Zamifolia, sometimes known as the ZZ Plant, is one of those “tough as nails” houseplants that can thrive in a variety of conditions, including low light. It also happens to be on the list of deadly houseplants, and all parts of the plant are poisonous to people and pets.
Sansevieria (also known as Snake Plant) is another toxic beauty that causes nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea when consumed.
Pets and youngsters looking for a flowery snack should avoid this tropical stunner with huge paddle-shaped leaves and colorful, exotic flowers. Fortunately, the poisonous parts are largely the flower and fruit, and the symptoms of nausea, vomiting, and drowsiness are minor.
Despite being in the Asparagus genus (yes, like the vegetable! ), this plant is not edible. Although there are other species that go by the name Asparagus Fern, the ones typically used as indoor plants are poisonous, and contact with the plant can cause skin irritation.
The Schefflera genus contains some magnificent forms that make excellent medium-light floor trees. However, keep children and dogs away because ingestion can cause severe mouth irritation, profuse drooling, and vomiting.
Euphorbia, oh, Euphorbia. Members of this diverse genus (some plants resemble cactus, while others are herbaceous and hardy in the outdoors!) contain a white sap that causes severe skin irritation (itchy rash!) even after a brief contact. Internal irritation is caused by ingestion in a similar way.
If consumed, this typical Crassula genus member is toxic to dogs, cats, and people, producing vomiting, depression, and incoordination.
It may seem unusual that Aloe, which is widely appreciated and used for its therapeutic and skin-healing powers, is classified among dangerous houseplants. While the gel is edible, other portions of the plant can cause vomiting, lethargy, and diarrhea if consumed.
Even if it’s tempting to leave the aforementioned specimens out of your indoor plant collection, it’s necessary to think about your risk factors. Do you have little toddlers who might eat your plants on the floor? Is your cat fond of playing with and chewing on plants? Will your dog chew on the tree’s trunk? You might be able to lessen your risk by employing some excellent spatial planning, depending on your home, your creatures, and whatever plants you have.
- Hang hazardous houseplants out of reach of your pets and children with a plant hanger.
- Consult our list of pet-friendly indoor plants for ideas on which floor plants will be the most accessible to pets and children.
- Make use of your furniture: bookshelves, cabinets, and even the top of the refrigerator can be used to house plants that your dog or children can’t reach. Keep in mind that cats have the ability to reach even the most remote locations.
- Consider getting a mounted plant to keep them out of reach of pets and children.
Do you have any more plant-safety recommendations for pets and kids to share? Do you have any questions concerning your collection? Let us know in the comments!
Where are caladium native to?
Caladiums are tropical perennials with colorful, heart-shaped leaves that are endemic to wet and dry tropical forests in South and Central America. Caladium bicolor, a Brazilian plant, is the most common of several decorative species of the genus Caladium in the arum family (Araceae). This species (also described as C. x hortulanum) has thousands of identified cultivars, but other species and hybrids are occasionally accessible. They are easy to cultivate as summer “bulbs” or houseplants, even though they are only hardy to zones 9 and 10.
Other popular names for caladium are angels wings and elephant ears (but don’t mix them with other plants with the common name elephant ears, such as Alocasia, Colocasia, and Xanthosoma).
This is a “old-fashioned” shrub with striking leaves that has been cultivated in Europe since the late 1700s. The leaves have strongly colored midribs, contrasting borders, and mottled, veined, and striped patterns in varying colors of green, white, pink, rose, and/or red. The leaves are carried on long petioles that emerge directly from the underground tuber; there are no stems.
The fancy-leaved kinds, with their huge, heart-shaped or semi-heart-shaped leaves on long petioles (12 to 30 inches tall), are more compact than the strap- or lance-leaved types, which have shorter and narrower, ruffle-edged leaves on short petioles (usually less than 12 inches tall). The fancy-leaved forms have more leaves per tuber than the lance-leaved types (derived from C.picturantum).
Caladiums can bloom, producing a single (rarely 2-3) characteristic arum-type flower with a green or pinkish spathe encircling a short white spadix, despite being grown as foliage plants. White berries with a few to many seeds make up the fruits. Most people remove the inflorescence because it depletes the plant’s energy, which could otherwise be utilized to grow more leaves or a larger tuber.
Caladiums can be used to give color and texture to shadow gardens as well as deck and patio pots.
For maximum impact, plant them in realistic clusters of a single cultivar, or mix and match for a multi-colored effect in smaller spaces. To create colorful fountains, combine them with ferns, astilbe, and shade-tolerant iris, or intersperse them with other shade-loving plants. Impatiens or fuchsias with flowers in similar or contrasting colors are a good match.
Choose coleus or begonia varieties that compliment each other for a season-long display of color and texture in the leaf. As a stunning specimen plant and focal point in a flower bed, use a single, big plant in a raised pot or urn. Combine caladium with green or black elephant ears for a tropical appearance. The lance-leaved varieties are ideal for window boxes and smaller containers. In fresh flower arrangements, chopped leaves can keep for several days.
Caladiums have a tuberous corm that they grow from. Tubers come in a variety of sizes dependent on their diameter. The more leaf buds a tuber has, the more foliage it produces, hence bigger tubers yield more foliage. A huge, center bud is surrounded by multiple tiny buds on each tuber (eyes). The greatest leaves will come from the central bud, but it will also prevent the smaller buds from sprouting. By gouging off the main, center bud with the tip of a sharp knife, you can stimulate the small buds to grow and create more slightly smaller leaves. Just make sure you don’t hurt any of the nearby little buds.
Start caladium tubers inside 4-6 weeks before the average last frost date in the Midwest, or buy potted plants. Place the knobby side of the tuber with the eyes up (both roots and shoots come from the top of the tuber) and just cover it with dirt. Keep the container in a brightly lit, warm area (70°F or higher). After the final frost, move the growing plants outside either in pots above ground or buried into the earth, or transplant into the ground so the tuber is 11/2″- 2 deep. Because they prefer a wet, rich, light, and well-drained soil, most soils should be amended with plenty of compost or other organic material. It is frequently preferable to keep them in containers rather than planting them in the ground in locations with heavy soils.
Low temperatures will injure tubers and plants, and plants will not grow much until temps warm up, so don’t rush to move them out. They thrive in soil temperatures of at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit, and planting them in chilly soil will cause the tubers to rot. Because high soil temperatures alter leaf color, plants in hot regions should be mulched to keep soil temperatures below 85°F.
Traditional varieties thrive in part-shade conditions. They will grow in full shade, but their vitality and color will suffer. Many newer, sun-resistant types, especially in cooler, northern climates, may be grown in part to full sun. Ensure that the soil is kept evenly moist but not damp throughout the growing season.
Caladiums are heavy feeders and, especially in containers, require regular fertilizing during the growing season. Because too much nitrogen can damage leaf color, choose a low-nitrogen or balanced formulation.
Caladiums thrive in the hot, humid summer months, but when the weather cools, they begin to droop and lose leaves. Tubers must be brought in before the first frost in temperate zones if they are to be retained during the winter (or before soil temperatures drop below 55oF). Lift any tubers in the ground, remove most of the soil, and dry for a week in a warm, shady location before cutting off the leaves and storing for up to five months in dry sphagnum moss or a mesh bag in mild temperatures (55-60oF). Tubers in containers can be carried inside for the winter and left undisturbed in the pots. As the leaves die back, allow the growing media to dry up. The containers can be kept in either light or darkness, but the temperature should never go below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. When new growth sprouts in the spring, start watering again.
As a houseplant, give a warm environment with plenty of humidity and bright but indirect light. Caladiums will go dormant after a few months in leaf, even if they are grown inside. Stop watering them when their leaves begin to wilt. Allow the plant to rest before watering it again after new growth appears.
Caladiums are mostly pest-free, especially in the north. Tuber rot, which can occur in storage or after planting, is most common in cool weather and can be avoided by following proper storage and planting techniques. Too much sun, not enough water, or fertilizer sitting on the leaves causes leaf burn or scorch on thin-leaved varieties. Caladiums can be propagated by separating tubers in the spring before potting them up. Allow the tuber to dry for a few days to callous over before planting; cut the tuber into pieces that have at least one eye or knob. If enough of the plant is consumed, it is poisonous, and handling the plants can irritate the skin of sensitive people.
Caladium cultivars come in thousands of varieties; these are only a few of the most popular.
Can you eat the plant elephant ears?
The common name for a group of tropical perennial plants grown for their big, heart-shaped leaves is “elephant ears.” Although there are others with similar appearances and growth habits, the majority of these herbaceous plants in the arum or aroid family (Araceae) that are presented as ornamentals belong to the genera Colocasia, Alocasia, and Xanthosoma.
The first two genera are found in tropical southern Asia, Indonesia, Malaysia, New Guinea, Australia, and the Pacific Islands, whereas Xanthosoma is found in tropical America. Many of the species have long been produced in tropical areas for their edible starchy corms or tubers, which are a staple diet.
The leaves (and all parts of the plant) are edible, but they must be cooked first since they contain needle-like calcium oxalate crystals that irritate the skin.
C.esculenta, sometimes known as taro and various common names, is one of the most frequently farmed species. It’s been cultivated for thousands of years throughout Asia and Polynesia, with over 200 varieties selected for culinary or ornamental qualities. This species is considered an invasive species along the Gulf Coast because it naturalizes quickly in wetlands in moderate temperatures.
These plants are used in Midwestern gardens for their flat sagittate (arrow- or heart-shaped) leaves with pronounced veins. The smooth, waxy leaves can grow up to 3 feet long and 2 feet broad in their natural habitat (depending on the species), but they are much smaller when cultivated as a seasonal plant.
Long, thick, succulent petioles that grow directly from the underground corm support the leaves. The leaves are kept perpendicular to the erect petiole, with the leaves pointing upward or outward, and the petiole attaches at the middle of the lower surface of the leaf (peltate).
Alocasia and Xanthosoma have leaves that are not peltate and are kept more upright.
Corms are used to grow these plants (commonly called bulbs, although they are not true bulbs),
However, some varieties generate long, slender stolons (above-ground runners), while others do not produce corms. Brown skinned lumpy corms with rough ridges have a white or pink interior. Smaller tubers called “cormels” (sometimes called “eddos”) develop off the margins of the main corm in some species of elephant ears.
Elephant ears can blossom, but flowers aren’t widespread in the Midwest, so they’re mostly planted for their foliage. The inflorescences have a white to yellow or light green spathe around the spadix, which is typical of aroids. They can grow to be quite enormous, aromatic, and appealing, but they are usually buried beneath the leaves. Fruits are globular green or yellow berries with many seeds inside.
The traditional emerald green C. esculenta with a matte finish used to be about the only form of elephant ear available to Midwestern gardeners, but breeding programs have generated a slew of new decorative variants over the last few decades. They range in size from 8 inches to over 9 feet, with the majority falling between 3 and 5 feet. The following are just a few of the numerous fascinating cultivars available (all of which are C. esculenta unless otherwise noted):
The Royal Hawaiian Series’ ‘Black Coral’ has large, glossy all-black corrugated leaves.
- The first black cultivar, with dusty purple-black leaves (with green undertones in shaded situations), blades slightly bent upwards, and dark petioles. It doesn’t produce corms.
- The Royal Hawaiian Series’ ‘Blue Hawaii’ has medium green leaves with dark purple-black veins and a maroon underside.
- ‘Burgundy Stem’ is a tall cultivar with deep purple petioles and large green leaves with a purple tinge on top.
- ‘Coal Miner’ is similar to ‘Illustris,’ except it blooms earlier, does not spread as widely underground, has a darker background leaf color, and has a velvety patina when it first emerges.
‘Coffee Cups’ (also known as ‘Tea Cups’) is a strong hybrid with smaller leaves on very tall black petioles with blades bent downwards to form a cup-shaped shape.
- ‘Elena’ Is similar to ‘Lime Zinger,’ but with cream-colored petioles that turn purple where they connect the leaf and veins where the stalk attaches. When planted in damp areas, it will spread by aboveground rhizomes.
- ‘Fontanesii’ (violet-stemmed taro) is a tall hybrid with dark green leaves and dark petioles with a lustrous black cast.
‘Hilo Beauty’ is a tiny Alocasia with irregular yellow or cream specks on the dark green foliage (approximately a foot tall).
Dark green matte leaves with a purple to black sheen and vivid green veins and petioles characterize ‘Illustris’ (imperial taro, var. antiquorum). Underground runners help the plants spread. In high light, the color is more intense, although the leaves are never as dark as ‘Black Magic’ or other black kinds.
- On dark or patterned petioles, ‘Mojito’ has dull green leaves that are irregularly splotched, speckled, and streaked with black.
- ‘Nancy’s Revenge’ the leaves change color throughout the season, starting out green and turning butter yellow in the middle as flowering begins. The color seeps down the main vein and into the surrounding blades, finally forming an oval shape.
- Green foliage with pinkish stalks characterize ‘Pink China.’ It’s one of the toughest elephant ears, with accounts of it surviving in zone 5.
- Under optimal conditions, the ‘Thailand Giant Strain’ is a gigantic selection of C. gigantea with blue-gray-green leaves up to 5 feet long and 4 feet wide on a plant over 9 feet tall. This species has a higher drainage requirement than C. esculenta.
- ‘Yellow Splash’ is a yellow and green variegated variety with creamy yellow designs abundantly sprayed on it.
Elephant ears can be used in borders, mass plantings, or containers to create a dramatic, tropical effect in the landscape. The size, color, and shape of the leaves on these fantastic foliage plants provide a stunning contrast. They go well with bananas, castor beans, and colorful caladiums, among other tropical plants.
Chinese hibiscus and mandevillea, for example, contrast beautifully with more traditional temperate bedding plants, ferns, and ornamental grasses. For a striking contrast, pair dark-leaved cultivars with any white, yellow, or orange-flowering plant. When planted among low-growing annuals like petunias or begonias, the clumping types have a lovely vase shape, making a single plant a fascinating focal point in the garden. Combine them with papyrus and water lilies in large aquatic containers, or keep them in separate containers to mix and match with other plants on a deck or patio.
Elephant ears can be planted in moderate shade, but the darker colored species require full sun to thrive. All require rich, moist soil, and nearly all thrive near a pond’s edge. Most may be grown in a few inches of standing water and used as emergent plants in water gardens (the roots in water and with the soil just covered with water, but the plants not submerged).
Warm temperatures and heavy humidity are ideal for these tropical plants. They may languish in Midwestern gardens until the summer heat arrives, and they may also suffer if temperatures fall below 50 degrees Fahrenheit for an extended length of time.
Throughout the growing season, the plants continue to develop new leaves. To keep the plants looking neat, remove the older leaves that are progressively dying off. When selecting a planting place in the spring, keep in mind the elephant ear’s ability to shadow out lesser plants as it grows.
Start with a huge bulb or rooted plant to create large elephant ears, even though they can be grown from seed (many of the newer cultivars are only offered as tissue cultured plants that have not formed bulbs yet). The first leaves from the bulb will appear after a few weeks. These frost-tender perennials are best started inside by potting up the bulb in March, positioning the top of the bulb near to the soil level, and keeping it warm until the weather warms up, which is normally around late May or early June.
As the plants grow, give them plenty of water and fertilizer, especially if they’re in pots, as they’re heavy feeders. You can buy taro (also known as coco yam) root in Asian grocery stores and grow it instead of eating it for plain green-leaved elephant ears (assuming the corms haven’t been treated with something to hinder development).
Elephant ears can be cultivated as annuals, with new plants sprouting each year, or they can be preserved over the winter (most are hardy only to zone 8). After the foliage has been damaged by frost, plants that have formed bulbs can be excavated, dried, and kept like cannas or dahlias.
Those without bulbs are more difficult to keep indoors, yet if kept in a warm, bright place, they may be able to survive as houseplants. Before the temps drop into the 30s, bring plants indoors to be kept as houseplants. All but the top two leaves should be cut back and kept at room temperature in strong light. When plants are semi-dormant, keep them drier, and when development resumes in the spring, resume regular watering and fertilization.