Caladiums are tropical perennials with colorful, heart-shaped leaves that are endemic to wet and dry tropical forests in South and Central America. Caladium bicolor, a Brazilian plant, is the most common of several decorative species of the genus Caladium in the arum family (Araceae). This species (also described as C. x hortulanum) has thousands of identified cultivars, but other species and hybrids are occasionally accessible. They are easy to cultivate as summer “bulbs” or houseplants, even though they are only hardy to zones 9 and 10.
Other popular names for caladium are angels wings and elephant ears (but don’t mix them with other plants with the common name elephant ears, such as Alocasia, Colocasia, and Xanthosoma).
This is a “old-fashioned” shrub with striking leaves that has been cultivated in Europe since the late 1700s. The leaves have strongly colored midribs, contrasting borders, and mottled, veined, and striped patterns in varying colors of green, white, pink, rose, and/or red. The leaves are carried on long petioles that emerge directly from the underground tuber; there are no stems.
The fancy-leaved kinds, with their huge, heart-shaped or semi-heart-shaped leaves on long petioles (12 to 30 inches tall), are more compact than the strap- or lance-leaved types, which have shorter and narrower, ruffle-edged leaves on short petioles (usually less than 12 inches tall). The fancy-leaved forms have more leaves per tuber than the lance-leaved types (derived from C.picturantum).
Caladiums can bloom, producing a single (rarely 2-3) characteristic arum-type flower with a green or pinkish spathe encircling a short white spadix, despite being grown as foliage plants. White berries with a few to many seeds make up the fruits. Most people remove the inflorescence because it depletes the plant’s energy, which could otherwise be utilized to grow more leaves or a larger tuber.
Caladiums can be used to give color and texture to shadow gardens as well as deck and patio pots.
For maximum impact, plant them in realistic clusters of a single cultivar, or mix and match for a multi-colored effect in smaller spaces. To create colorful fountains, combine them with ferns, astilbe, and shade-tolerant iris, or intersperse them with other shade-loving plants. Impatiens or fuchsias with flowers in similar or contrasting colors are a good match.
Choose coleus or begonia varieties that compliment each other for a season-long display of color and texture in the leaf. As a stunning specimen plant and focal point in a flower bed, use a single, big plant in a raised pot or urn. Combine caladium with green or black elephant ears for a tropical appearance. The lance-leaved varieties are ideal for window boxes and smaller containers. In fresh flower arrangements, chopped leaves can keep for several days.
Caladiums have a tuberous corm that they grow from. Tubers come in a variety of sizes dependent on their diameter. The more leaf buds a tuber has, the more foliage it produces, hence bigger tubers yield more foliage. A huge, center bud is surrounded by multiple tiny buds on each tuber (eyes). The greatest leaves will come from the central bud, but it will also prevent the smaller buds from sprouting. By gouging off the main, center bud with the tip of a sharp knife, you can stimulate the small buds to grow and create more slightly smaller leaves. Just make sure you don’t hurt any of the nearby little buds.
Start caladium tubers inside 4-6 weeks before the average last frost date in the Midwest, or buy potted plants. Place the knobby side of the tuber with the eyes up (both roots and shoots come from the top of the tuber) and just cover it with dirt. Keep the container in a brightly lit, warm area (70°F or higher). After the final frost, move the growing plants outside either in pots above ground or buried into the earth, or transplant into the ground so the tuber is 11/2″- 2 deep. Because they prefer a wet, rich, light, and well-drained soil, most soils should be amended with plenty of compost or other organic material. It is frequently preferable to keep them in containers rather than planting them in the ground in locations with heavy soils.
Low temperatures will injure tubers and plants, and plants will not grow much until temps warm up, so don’t rush to move them out. They thrive in soil temperatures of at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit, and planting them in chilly soil will cause the tubers to rot. Because high soil temperatures alter leaf color, plants in hot regions should be mulched to keep soil temperatures below 85°F.
Traditional varieties thrive in part-shade conditions. They will grow in full shade, but their vitality and color will suffer. Many newer, sun-resistant types, especially in cooler, northern climates, may be grown in part to full sun. Ensure that the soil is kept evenly moist but not damp throughout the growing season.
Caladiums are heavy feeders and, especially in containers, require regular fertilizing during the growing season. Because too much nitrogen can damage leaf color, choose a low-nitrogen or balanced formulation.
Caladiums thrive in the hot, humid summer months, but when the weather cools, they begin to droop and lose leaves. Tubers must be brought in before the first frost in temperate zones if they are to be retained during the winter (or before soil temperatures drop below 55oF). Lift any tubers in the ground, remove most of the soil, and dry for a week in a warm, shady location before cutting off the leaves and storing for up to five months in dry sphagnum moss or a mesh bag in mild temperatures (55-60oF). Tubers in containers can be carried inside for the winter and left undisturbed in the pots. As the leaves die back, allow the growing media to dry up. The containers can be kept in either light or darkness, but the temperature should never go below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. When new growth sprouts in the spring, start watering again.
As a houseplant, give a warm environment with plenty of humidity and bright but indirect light. Caladiums will go dormant after a few months in leaf, even if they are grown inside. Stop watering them when their leaves begin to wilt. Allow the plant to rest before watering it again after new growth appears.
Caladiums are mostly pest-free, especially in the north. Tuber rot, which can occur in storage or after planting, is most common in cool weather and can be avoided by following proper storage and planting techniques. Too much sun, not enough water, or fertilizer sitting on the leaves causes leaf burn or scorch on thin-leaved varieties. Caladiums can be propagated by separating tubers in the spring before potting them up. Allow the tuber to dry for a few days to callous over before planting; cut the tuber into pieces that have at least one eye or knob. If enough of the plant is consumed, it is poisonous, and handling the plants can irritate the skin of sensitive people.
Caladium cultivars come in thousands of varieties; these are only a few of the most popular.
Does caladiums come back every year?
Caladium plants (Caladium spp.) grow from bulbs and are hardy in USDA zones 9 and 10. The bulbs will return each year in warmer climates. Because cold weather can easily destroy the tubers, you can dig them up for the winter and transplant them in the spring.
Can caladium survive winter?
Caladiums are USDA zone 9 winter hardy, which means they should be able to survive the winter outside. Even in these places, caladiums should be mulched heavily with 3 inches (7.5 cm) of mulch in the winter to prevent them from dying in the cooler temps.
Winter maintenance for caladium bulbs in USDA zones 8 and lower is digging them out and bringing them inside to go dormant.
How do you keep caladiums over winter?
You have two options at this point: leave the tubers in the ground or dig them up, store them, and replant them next year.
Caladiums tolerate a lot of shade, and some cultivars even do well in full sun, but they thrive in part-shade to part-sun in well-drained beds that are rich in organic matter and maintained evenly moist.
Your caladiums should have produced nice-sized tubers by this time if you gave them the growing conditions they prefer this summer (as big as or bigger than the ones you planted). These tubers can be left in the ground or preserved and transplanted the next year to grow caladiums.
You might just leave the tubers in the ground if the beds where the caladiums are planted would remain reasonably undisturbed through winter and drain nicely. Keep the area mulched to protect the tubers in the event of a particularly cold spell. They will live and come back up next year because the earth here does not freeze.
The tubers may rot if the bed stays damp over the winter, which is common in our rainy winters. In general, digging and storing caladium tubers over the winter has proven to be more reliable than leaving them in the ground. But don’t be afraid to give it a shot.
If you want to transplant the area with cool-season bedding plants like pansies, you’ll need to remove the tubers to make room for the new plants. Alternatively, excavate them if you simply want to make sure they’ll be safe over the winter.
When a number of leaves turn yellow and most of the foliage appears “weary” and falls down, caladiums should be dug. If you wait until all of the leaves has vanished, you may have difficulty locating the tubers. As a result, it’s more probable that you’ll harm the tubers or leave some behind.
What happens to caladium in winter?
If you reside in a warm enough climate (zone 9+), you may just keep your caladiums in the ground throughout the winter.
They’ll eventually go dormant and die back all of their leaves. They’ll grow back stronger than ever once the soil heats up in the spring.
If you’re going to leave them in the ground, make sure they’re in a protected area where they won’t be exposed to too much water. If the bulbs are left too wet, they may decay.
What month do caladiums come back?
The more “eyes,” or growth points, a tuber has, the bigger it is. These tubers will develop into larger, fuller plants as they mature. Potato tubers are consumed for their carbohydrate energy source. Caladium tubers supply energy stores for tubers to go into winter hibernation and grow again in spring when the days lengthen and soil temperatures rise in the correct hardiness zones, just like potato tubers do when we consume them.
How long will caladiums last?
What is the life expectancy of caladium? The plants are perennials, meaning they can be used year after year. They are visible for about six months of the year, from sprouting to hibernation.
Do caladiums come back indoors?
Tender tubers and bulbs must be lifted in the fall to avoid being killed by frost. Caladium tubers are frost fragile, and if exposed to cold, they will perish. As a result, they must be taken indoors in northern latitudes, and even in milder climates, they will normally die back in the winter. This is all well and good, but the tubers that produce the foliage require some rest. Caladiums are popular indoor plants among gardeners. Caladium care indoors requires some additional guidelines to keep the plants healthy and the tubers safe.
Plants that grow in areas with cold winters could be grown in containers to make it easier to bring them inside when the weather turns chilly. Caladiums are difficult to grow as indoor plants because they require high humidity, which is difficult to provide in warm home interiors.
Caladium plants also only produce leaves from spring to fall, and then require a five-month rest time to recharge and sprout again in spring. You can prolong the foliar display by putting containers indoors, but the leaves will eventually die back and the tuber will become dormant until the weather warms again.
Bringing plants indoors in containers will maintain the tubers and protect them from damage during the winter months when they are exposed to the elements.
When should I overwinter caladiums?
It seems a shame that such a magnificent plant only produces color for one season. Fortunately, if you remember to dig out the tubers and bring them indoors to store for the winter, you can enjoy the same plants the following year.
I say remember because, just as you must wait until the ground is warm before planting them in the spring, you must also dig them up before the temperatures drop below 55 degrees in the fall.
This is something I’ve learned the hard way. I had a few wonderful clumps of caladiums that I knew I’d have to remove out of the ground as soon as possible in the fall.
I became preoccupied and forgot about them until the temperatures fell below 50 degrees for several weeks. When I went out to pull them up, I couldn’t find a single caladium…not a shriveled leaf…not a shriveled stem. There was no evidence just a plain area of ground.
If, unlike me, you remember the plants before the frost, you can save them using this method:
- Wait till the leaves begin to fall and turn yellow. Remove the entire plant.
- Remove the leaves and set the tubers in a pot filled with peat moss or sphagnum moss.
- If you have many varieties, label them and store them in a cool, dry place until spring.
One thing I discovered is that when gardening professionals advise that the lower limit for caladium temperatures is 50 degrees, they truly mean 50 degrees!
Caladium tubers are hardy in zones 9-12 and do not need to be dug up to survive the winter. Simply leave the tubers in the ground until the plants begin to develop again in the spring.
The tubers will overwinter and return to give you another spectacular exhibition next spring as long as the ground does not freeze.
Overwintering Caladiums in pots
Plants grown in containers can be brought indoors and overwintered straight in their pots. Watering and fertilizing should be avoided during the winter, when the plant is dormant.
Note from the admin: This piece about caladium plant care first published on the blog in December of 2012. I’ve updated the page with a lot of fresh photographs, maintenance tips, and a video for you to watch.
How do you save a dying caladium?
You’re not doing anything wrong; your plants are just doing what they’re supposed to be doing at this time of year. Caladiums, especially when cultivated indoors, require a period of dormancy during which they die down to their tubers.
Remove the tubers from the soil and store in a paper bag in a warm, dry area once the foliage has died down entirely. (You can store them loose or in a sack with vermiculite or anything like.)
Repot the tubers and begin watering in late winter or early spring. Your plants will be resurrected.
Will caladiums come back after winter?
Caladiums tolerate a lot of shade, and some cultivars even do well in full sun, but they grow best in part-shade to part-sun in organically rich soils that are kept equally moist.
Your caladiums should have produced nice-sized tubers by this time, as big as or bigger than the ones you planted, if you gave them the growing conditions they prefer this summer.
These tubers are worth conserving since they can be used to develop caladiums the following year, whether they are left in the ground or saved and replanted.
The tubers may have lost ground over the summer if the growing conditions were not optimal, especially if they were growing in dense, heavy shade or in dry conditions. They may also be too little to perform well next year if the growing conditions were not right. If this is the case, you may want to toss them out and replace them with new tubers next spring.
If the bed where the caladiums are planted is reasonably undisturbed and drains properly, you can just leave the tubers in the ground. This winter, keep the area mulched to protect the tubers in case of extreme cold. They will live and come back up next year because the earth here does not freeze.
The tubers may decompose in the cold, moist soil if the bed stays wet over the winter. It would be advisable to dig and store them in this situation. Heavy rains in December ruined a number of the tubers that had been left in the ground a few years ago. Many gardeners in the New Orleans area discovered that caladiums that had been dependably returning for years did not return the following spring.
The tubers should be raised and removed if you wish to replace the space with cool-season bedding plants like pansies. This will allow you to prepare the bed for the new bedding plants.
When the leaves turn yellow and most of the foliage looks “weary” and falls over, it’s time to dig caladiums.
Do not wait until the entire foliage has turned yellow or brown. The foliage will vanish before you know it, and you’ll have a hard time discovering the tubers. This increases the likelihood that you will accidently dig into and damage the tubers when digging them up, as well as the likelihood that you will miss some tubers and leave them behind.
Caladiums are commonly dug between late September and mid-October. Caladiums planted later in the season tend to stay longer in the landscape, according to my observations.
Lift the tubers with a shovel or a garden fork, being careful not to injure them. Leave the foliage on the tubers, shake and brush off the soil, and put them out to dry in a rain-free spot (such as a garage or under a carport). You can alternatively store them in a bucket or large pot, tubers down, to save space while they dry. Don’t cram too many of them in.
Allow the tubers to dry until the foliage appears to be tan and papery. This usually takes between 10 and 14 days. The foliage will readily detach from the tubers at that point, leaving a healed scar.
After that, the tubers can be cleaned in water. Brushing them off is sufficient unless there is a significant amount of soil sticking to them. If the tubers are washed, they should be air-dried for several days in a well-ventilated area until the moisture has evaporated from the surface.
They’re ready to store for the winter once they’re dried. Any tubers that look to be rotten or have soft patches should be discarded. Tubers that have been harmed accidently during digging can be rescued if they have healed well and feel substantial.
Fill an old nylon stocking, a mesh bag (such as an onion or crawfish sack), a paper bag, or a cardboard box with the healthy tubers. The container should be able to “breathe,” according to the concept. Do not keep the tubers in a plastic bag since they will decay.
Make sure the tubers are kept in an indoor setting with temperatures above 70 degrees. Occasionally inspect the tubers and discard those that show indications of decay or have shriveled up.
It’s a good idea to keep track of the different sorts of tubers you’re cultivating and keep them separate while drying and storing them. This will allow you to set groupings of individual colors where you want them to go next year in the landscape. It’s a good idea to write the name of the cultivar and the color of the tubers on the bags in which they’ll be stored. If you don’t know the cultivar name, at the very least label the tubers by color.
Caladiums produce small, weak tubers in poor growing conditions, particularly in areas of heavy shadow, and these tubers may not return well, whether left in the ground or dug and stored.