Caladiums are tropical perennials with colorful, heart-shaped leaves that are endemic to wet and dry tropical forests in South and Central America. Caladium bicolor, a Brazilian plant, is the most common of several decorative species of the genus Caladium in the arum family (Araceae). This species (also described as C. x hortulanum) has thousands of identified cultivars, but other species and hybrids are occasionally accessible. They are easy to cultivate as summer “bulbs” or houseplants, even though they are only hardy to zones 9 and 10.
Other popular names for caladium are angels wings and elephant ears (but don’t mix them with other plants with the common name elephant ears, such as Alocasia, Colocasia, and Xanthosoma).
This is a “old-fashioned” shrub with striking leaves that has been cultivated in Europe since the late 1700s. The leaves have strongly colored midribs, contrasting borders, and mottled, veined, and striped patterns in varying colors of green, white, pink, rose, and/or red. The leaves are carried on long petioles that emerge directly from the underground tuber; there are no stems.
The fancy-leaved kinds, with their huge, heart-shaped or semi-heart-shaped leaves on long petioles (12 to 30 inches tall), are more compact than the strap- or lance-leaved types, which have shorter and narrower, ruffle-edged leaves on short petioles (usually less than 12 inches tall). The fancy-leaved forms have more leaves per tuber than the lance-leaved types (derived from C.picturantum).
Caladiums can bloom, producing a single (rarely 2-3) characteristic arum-type flower with a green or pinkish spathe encircling a short white spadix, despite being grown as foliage plants. White berries with a few to many seeds make up the fruits. Most people remove the inflorescence because it depletes the plant’s energy, which could otherwise be utilized to grow more leaves or a larger tuber.
Caladiums can be used to give color and texture to shadow gardens as well as deck and patio pots.
For maximum impact, plant them in realistic clusters of a single cultivar, or mix and match for a multi-colored effect in smaller spaces. To create colorful fountains, combine them with ferns, astilbe, and shade-tolerant iris, or intersperse them with other shade-loving plants. Impatiens or fuchsias with flowers in similar or contrasting colors are a good match.
Choose coleus or begonia varieties that compliment each other for a season-long display of color and texture in the leaf. As a stunning specimen plant and focal point in a flower bed, use a single, big plant in a raised pot or urn. Combine caladium with green or black elephant ears for a tropical appearance. The lance-leaved varieties are ideal for window boxes and smaller containers. In fresh flower arrangements, chopped leaves can keep for several days.
Caladiums have a tuberous corm that they grow from. Tubers come in a variety of sizes dependent on their diameter. The more leaf buds a tuber has, the more foliage it produces, hence bigger tubers yield more foliage. A huge, center bud is surrounded by multiple tiny buds on each tuber (eyes). The greatest leaves will come from the central bud, but it will also prevent the smaller buds from sprouting. By gouging off the main, center bud with the tip of a sharp knife, you can stimulate the small buds to grow and create more slightly smaller leaves. Just make sure you don’t hurt any of the nearby little buds.
Start caladium tubers inside 4-6 weeks before the average last frost date in the Midwest, or buy potted plants. Place the knobby side of the tuber with the eyes up (both roots and shoots come from the top of the tuber) and just cover it with dirt. Keep the container in a brightly lit, warm area (70°F or higher). After the final frost, move the growing plants outside either in pots above ground or buried into the earth, or transplant into the ground so the tuber is 11/2″- 2 deep. Because they prefer a wet, rich, light, and well-drained soil, most soils should be amended with plenty of compost or other organic material. It is frequently preferable to keep them in containers rather than planting them in the ground in locations with heavy soils.
Low temperatures will injure tubers and plants, and plants will not grow much until temps warm up, so don’t rush to move them out. They thrive in soil temperatures of at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit, and planting them in chilly soil will cause the tubers to rot. Because high soil temperatures alter leaf color, plants in hot regions should be mulched to keep soil temperatures below 85°F.
Traditional varieties thrive in part-shade conditions. They will grow in full shade, but their vitality and color will suffer. Many newer, sun-resistant types, especially in cooler, northern climates, may be grown in part to full sun. Ensure that the soil is kept evenly moist but not damp throughout the growing season.
Caladiums are heavy feeders and, especially in containers, require regular fertilizing during the growing season. Because too much nitrogen can damage leaf color, choose a low-nitrogen or balanced formulation.
Caladiums thrive in the hot, humid summer months, but when the weather cools, they begin to droop and lose leaves. Tubers must be brought in before the first frost in temperate zones if they are to be retained during the winter (or before soil temperatures drop below 55oF). Lift any tubers in the ground, remove most of the soil, and dry for a week in a warm, shady location before cutting off the leaves and storing for up to five months in dry sphagnum moss or a mesh bag in mild temperatures (55-60oF). Tubers in containers can be carried inside for the winter and left undisturbed in the pots. As the leaves die back, allow the growing media to dry up. The containers can be kept in either light or darkness, but the temperature should never go below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. When new growth sprouts in the spring, start watering again.
As a houseplant, give a warm environment with plenty of humidity and bright but indirect light. Caladiums will go dormant after a few months in leaf, even if they are grown inside. Stop watering them when their leaves begin to wilt. Allow the plant to rest before watering it again after new growth appears.
Caladiums are mostly pest-free, especially in the north. Tuber rot, which can occur in storage or after planting, is most common in cool weather and can be avoided by following proper storage and planting techniques. Too much sun, not enough water, or fertilizer sitting on the leaves causes leaf burn or scorch on thin-leaved varieties. Caladiums can be propagated by separating tubers in the spring before potting them up. Allow the tuber to dry for a few days to callous over before planting; cut the tuber into pieces that have at least one eye or knob. If enough of the plant is consumed, it is poisonous, and handling the plants can irritate the skin of sensitive people.
Caladium cultivars come in thousands of varieties; these are only a few of the most popular.
Can you propagate a caladium from a cutting?
Because the tuber is so important to the plant’s growth, it normally does not do well when grown from a cutting.
Taking a cutting is the process of removing a portion of a plant’s stem. You must effectively take a bit of the tuber and then cultivate it to create a Caladium.
By’splitting’ the smaller pieces from the larger one, this can be accomplished. Except for the section that was linked to the main tuber, these will be nearly complete.
You have the option of leaving the little tubers whole or cutting them into smaller pieces. Every item must have an eye or a point of growth.
Although a Caladium cannot be grown from a cutting, a leaf can be submerged in water and grow roots.
This is the only way to go. It is more likely to grow efficiently if a portion of the tuber is linked to the base of the leaf.
Do caladiums propagate in water?
As I was putting this Caladium leaf into a pot, it broke away from the tuber. Caladium leaves containing even a small amount of tuber on the petiole will root in water. A new leaf is already growing (underwater), and if placed in soil, this rooted leaf will quickly grow into a lovely new plant. On the left, a blossom is forming, which I’ll pluck before potting up the leaf.
Where do you cut caladium leaves?
Water your caladiums frequently and deeply, keeping the soil evenly damp to the touch but not soaking wet at all times. During the peak of summer heat, daily watering may be required, whereas every 10 days to 2 weeks may suffice in the winter, depending on your climate and time of year.
During the growing season, prune your caladium lightly. Cut down the stem at the soil line to harvest leaves for use in household floral arrangements. By cutting at the soil line, remove any damaged, browning, or dead leaves. After digging out the corm for winter storage, remove all leaves.
After the foliage has fallen down or the first frost has arrived, dig and preserve your caladium corms in the fall. Gently pluck the corm up and out by grabbing the plant leaf like a carrot and digging a wide circle around the plant base to remove the soil. Remove any excess soil from the corms and keep them in clean sand or fresh dry potting mix until spring. Choose a storage location with low lighting and temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Do caladiums like sun or shade?
Caladiums thrive in shaded areas of the yard and garden. They thrive in full to partial shade in southern climates. Most caladiums can be grown in the sun in northern climates if they are given enough water and their leaves are shaded during the warmest portion of the day.
Do caladiums like lots of water?
Ensure that the soil is kept evenly moist during the growing season. Allowing the soil to dry out will cause the leaves to yellow and drop. To assist your plants retain moisture, apply a layer of mulch around them.
Fertilizing:
Caladiums don’t require much fertilizer, and too much can cause the leaves to burn. Proven Winners horticulturists recommend applying a controlled-release fertilizer at 1/4 strength of what you would use for blooming plants. It’s also possible to utilize liquid fertilizer.
Overwintering:
Tubers will fall dormant and the foliage will die back in warmer regions (Zone 9 or higher). Leave the tubers in the ground and cut the leaves to the ground. If you want to replant them the following spring in a colder environment (Zone 8 or below), you must dig them up in the fall before frost. Allow the soil to dry out when the leaves have fallen naturally in the fall, then dig up the tubers and store them in a dry spot no cooler than 65° F.
Propagation:
After bringing tubers out of winter storage in the spring, divide them. Each tuber should be cut into smaller pieces with at least one “eye” or knob from which new growth will emerge. Allow a day for the cut pieces to dry before planting.
Can caladiums be divided?
Caladium tubers, not bulbs, are the most common type of caladium. Caladium tubers can be divided in the spring when propagating the plant, according to Fine Gardening. Dig out and divide the tubers in colder locations where the caladium isn’t hardy, then store them over the winter to replant in the spring. North Carolina State University Cooperative Extension recommends storing them in a dry, warm area at 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
How do you make caladiums grow faster?
They thrive in hot temperatures, therefore the warmer the ground and air temperature when you plant them, the faster they will grow. Plant your caladium bulbs only when nightly temperatures are consistently above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, according to Caladium World.
How do you split caladiums?
Caladium plants should be divided in the spring. Lift the tuber clump out of the garden bed with a garden fork inserted into the dirt at the plant’s base. Using a knife, cut the tubers into 1- to 3-inch chunks. Plants grown from one-inch tubers will be smaller. At least one “eye” or growth point is required in each area. To keep the tubers from decaying in the ground, dust them with fungicide. Use a horticulture fungicide according to the package label’s instructions. Fill the space around the tuber with soil and smooth it up. Caladium plants require continuous hydration, but soggy, poorly drained soil will cause them to rot.