It seems a shame that such a magnificent plant only produces color for one season. Fortunately, if you remember to dig out the tubers and bring them indoors to store for the winter, you can enjoy the same plants the following year.
I say remember because, just as you must wait until the ground is warm before planting them in the spring, you must also dig them up before the temperatures drop below 55 degrees in the fall.
This is something I’ve learned the hard way. I had a few wonderful clumps of caladiums that I knew I’d have to remove out of the ground as soon as possible in the fall.
I became preoccupied and forgot about them until the temperatures fell below 50 degrees for several weeks. When I went out to pull them up, I couldn’t find a single caladium…not a shriveled leaf…not a shriveled stem. There was no evidence just a plain area of ground.
If, unlike me, you remember the plants before the frost, you can save them using this method:
- Wait till the leaves begin to fall and turn yellow. Remove the entire plant.
- Remove the leaves and set the tubers in a pot filled with peat moss or sphagnum moss.
- If you have many varieties, label them and store them in a cool, dry place until spring.
One thing I discovered is that when gardening professionals advise that the lower limit for caladium temperatures is 50 degrees, they truly mean 50 degrees!
Caladium tubers are hardy in zones 9-12 and do not need to be dug up to survive the winter. Simply leave the tubers in the ground until the plants begin to develop again in the spring.
The tubers will overwinter and return to give you another spectacular exhibition next spring as long as the ground does not freeze.
Overwintering Caladiums in pots
Plants grown in containers can be brought indoors and overwintered straight in their pots. Watering and fertilizing should be avoided during the winter, when the plant is dormant.
Note from the admin: This piece about caladium plant care first published on the blog in December of 2012. I’ve updated the page with a lot of fresh photographs, maintenance tips, and a video for you to watch.
How do you keep caladiums over winter?
Dig up your caladium bulb with the foliage still attached as the temps start to fall and stay below 60 F (15 C). Do not attempt to remove any dirt from the roots at this time. For 2 to 3 weeks, keep your plants in a cool, dark place. The bulbs will be cured and will go dormant as a result of this process.
Cut the tops off level with the soil line after a few weeks. Brush away any loose soil, chop out any rotting spots, and fungicide the area.
Can caladiums survive winter indoors?
Caladiums can technically be grown indoors, but it is a challenging task. During the winter months, they require a natural dormant phase, so it’s best to let them rest.
How do you save caladiums next year?
A:Yes. Caladiums require temperatures in the high 50s at night and around 80 degrees during the day, as well as a continually moist soil and fertilization every other week. They look best in bright indirect light, so a window facing north or east is perfect. Tubers, like outside caladiums, must rest in the winter.
A:In the fall, lift tubers.
Dry in a warm place with a temperature of at least 40 degrees.
When the tips have returned to their original position, snip them off.
Clean tubers gently, sprinkle with sulphur, and keep in a cool, but not freezing, location.
Try not to let the bulbs come into contact with one another.
Dry peat moss, vermiculite, or perlite are good options for storage.
Because second-year foliage is rarely as good as first-year foliage, better results can be obtained by starting with new tubers each year.
4. Can you keep caladium bulbs from year to year?
A.Caladium bulbs should not be saved in this location since their size reduces after one year of growing.
The white-flowered tubers have fared better in terms of storage and regrowth. Dig caladium tubers as soon as possible and leave to dry in a well-ventilated but shady spot if you want to keep them for another year. Remove leaves and dirt after 7 to 10 days, then store in dry peat moss, vermiculite, or equivalent substance. Tubers should be packed in such a way that they do not come into contact with one another. As you load, dust with an all-purpose fungicide like Captan(Orthocide). Place the container in a location where the temperature will not go below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Will caladiums come back after winter?
Caladiums tolerate a lot of shade, and some cultivars even do well in full sun, but they grow best in part-shade to part-sun in organically rich soils that are kept equally moist.
Your caladiums should have produced nice-sized tubers by this time, as big as or bigger than the ones you planted, if you gave them the growing conditions they prefer this summer.
These tubers are worth conserving since they can be used to develop caladiums the following year, whether they are left in the ground or saved and replanted.
The tubers may have lost ground over the summer if the growing conditions were not optimal, especially if they were growing in dense, heavy shade or in dry conditions. They may also be too little to perform well next year if the growing conditions were not right. If this is the case, you may want to toss them out and replace them with new tubers next spring.
If the bed where the caladiums are planted is reasonably undisturbed and drains properly, you can just leave the tubers in the ground. This winter, keep the area mulched to protect the tubers in case of extreme cold. They will live and come back up next year because the earth here does not freeze.
The tubers may decompose in the cold, moist soil if the bed stays wet over the winter. It would be advisable to dig and store them in this situation. Heavy rains in December ruined a number of the tubers that had been left in the ground a few years ago. Many gardeners in the New Orleans area discovered that caladiums that had been dependably returning for years did not return the following spring.
The tubers should be raised and removed if you wish to replace the space with cool-season bedding plants like pansies. This will allow you to prepare the bed for the new bedding plants.
When the leaves turn yellow and most of the foliage looks “weary” and falls over, it’s time to dig caladiums.
Do not wait until the entire foliage has turned yellow or brown. The foliage will vanish before you know it, and you’ll have a hard time discovering the tubers. This increases the likelihood that you will accidently dig into and damage the tubers when digging them up, as well as the likelihood that you will miss some tubers and leave them behind.
Caladiums are commonly dug between late September and mid-October. Caladiums planted later in the season tend to stay longer in the landscape, according to my observations.
Lift the tubers with a shovel or a garden fork, being careful not to injure them. Leave the foliage on the tubers, shake and brush off the soil, and put them out to dry in a rain-free spot (such as a garage or under a carport). You can alternatively store them in a bucket or large pot, tubers down, to save space while they dry. Don’t cram too many of them in.
Allow the tubers to dry until the foliage appears to be tan and papery. This usually takes between 10 and 14 days. The foliage will readily detach from the tubers at that point, leaving a healed scar.
After that, the tubers can be cleaned in water. Brushing them off is sufficient unless there is a significant amount of soil sticking to them. If the tubers are washed, they should be air-dried for several days in a well-ventilated area until the moisture has evaporated from the surface.
They’re ready to store for the winter once they’re dried. Any tubers that look to be rotten or have soft patches should be discarded. Tubers that have been harmed accidently during digging can be rescued if they have healed well and feel substantial.
Fill an old nylon stocking, a mesh bag (such as an onion or crawfish sack), a paper bag, or a cardboard box with the healthy tubers. The container should be able to “breathe,” according to the concept. Do not keep the tubers in a plastic bag since they will decay.
Make sure the tubers are kept in an indoor setting with temperatures above 70 degrees. Occasionally inspect the tubers and discard those that show indications of decay or have shriveled up.
It’s a good idea to keep track of the different sorts of tubers you’re cultivating and keep them separate while drying and storing them. This will allow you to set groupings of individual colors where you want them to go next year in the landscape. It’s a good idea to write the name of the cultivar and the color of the tubers on the bags in which they’ll be stored. If you don’t know the cultivar name, at the very least label the tubers by color.
Caladiums produce small, weak tubers in poor growing conditions, particularly in areas of heavy shadow, and these tubers may not return well, whether left in the ground or dug and stored.
What month do caladiums go dormant?
Caladium tubers are hardy in zones 9-12 and do not require any particular care to survive the winter. The plants will begin to become dormant at the end of the summer. The leaves will gradually droop and wither away. Simply leave the tubers where they are in the ground and wait for the plants to reappear in the spring. The tubers will return to give you another fantastic show next spring as long as the soil is well drained and does not freeze.
How long does it take for caladium bulbs to sprout indoors?
As houseplants, they thrive both outside and inside. Caladium bulbs can take anywhere from two to twelve weeks to germinate, depending on the variety you choose. They thrive in hot temperatures, therefore the warmer the ground and air temperature when you plant them, the faster they will grow.
Do indoor caladiums go dormant?
They thrive in high heat, strong but indirect light, and plenty of humidity when cultivated inside. Caladium foliage lasts only a few months even in ideal conditions before the leaves fall back and the plant stays dormant, which is typical.
Can you cut back caladiums?
Caladium Pruning and Caring If your caladium has lost a lot of leaves towards the end of the winter, you can completely remove the foliage to stimulate the growth of new shoots and rejuvenate your plant. Damaged leaves should be snipped off at the base on a regular basis.