Homestead Brooklyn’s Summer Rayne Oaks teaches the ins and outs of repotting bromeliads. Follow along as she explains the difference between a pup and a mother plant, as well as what occurs when the pup is removed vs. left on to continue growing. She demonstrates us how both eventualities in the repotting process appear using her extensive plant collection.
Summer Rayne demonstrates how to propagate a fresh new bromeliad from an old one. She was able to resurrect the plant with the proper care.
The best soil for bromeliads is a nutrient-rich barky airy mix, such as The Espoma Company’s Organic Orchid Mix.
You may either remove the pup for the mother to develop another or keep it on and watch it grow from the mother till it expires once it reaches 1/3 to 1/2 the size of the mother plant.
- Get a pair of gloves. You should take precautions because some of the leaves are thorny.
- Grab a pair of scissors or a pair of sheers. You’ll need something sharp to remove the pup before repotting if the mother plant is dehydrated or if you want to remove the pup before repotting.
- If feasible, take the bromeliad out of the container and detach it from the mother plant.
- Place the bromeliad in the center of the new container and fill it with Espoma’s Orchid Mix. It prefers to have room to breathe, so don’t tuck it in too tightly.
*Remember, you can plant a healthy mother plant and a healthy pup together or separately if you have both. It won’t be harmed in any case.
What is the best potting mix for bromeliads?
Indoor bromeliads thrive in fast-draining potting soil that retains moisture but drains quickly. It’s common to use a blend of two-thirds peat-based soil and one-third sand. Orchid mix, charcoal, or soilless potting mix are more options.
Should you repot bromeliads?
Bromeliads purchased from a florist or garden center are usually in bloom and will not grow any more. Bromeliads have extremely little root systems, so they will not require repotting during their time in your house. However, if you get a really small bromeliad that hasn’t bloomed yet, you’ll have to repot it. You’ll need to move your small bromeliad to a larger pot once it’s outgrown its current one. If your pot isn’t holding any water, it’s time to repot it. Your bromeliad will most likely require a container with a diameter of six inches. Make sure your container is free of debris. If it has been used before, wash it with mild soap and water many times, making sure to thoroughly rinse it. You can also clean the container with a highly diluted bleach solution. Before repotting your bromeliad, make sure the container is fully dry. Fill your container with your specific bromeliad potting mix to just below the surface once it’s ready. After that, place the bromeliad in the container and cover it with extra potting mix. Ensure that all of the leaves are elevated above the potting mix. The plant’s health depends on air circulation around these lower leaves. You may need to anchor your plant until its roots are well established if it is too top heavy.
You may need to try a different potting mix if the potting mix around your bromeliad is continuously moist, even if you are not overwatering. Root rot can be quite damaging to bromeliads that stay damp for an extended period of time. Remove the plant with care, shaking off as much of the old soil as possible. Replace the current medium with a potting mix that contains more perlite or sand to increase the drainage capacities of the previous container. As previously said, plant the bromeliad with all of its leaves above the dirt.
Bromeliad puppies can also be separated from their mother plants and potted in the same way. Begin with a small pot, and you may need to repot the bromeliad at some point throughout its life. A bloom on the new bromeliad will take around two years to appear. Our free Beginner’s Guide to Bromeliad Pups will teach you everything you need to know about bromeliad puppies.
Can I use potting soil for bromeliads?
Bromeliads can be found in a variety of climates and terrains, from epiphytic Neoregelias clinging to rainforest trees to gigantic Puyas growing on sand dunes.
It’s difficult to make broad statements about any plant family with dozens of genera and hundreds or thousands of species. The goal of making a potting mix and choosing a container is to provide a root environment that is comparable to the plant’s native habitat.
Bromeliads come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some bromeliads are epiphytic, meaning they grow on trees or in other locations, while others are terrestrial, meaning they grow in the ground. Some are the size of a fish bowl terrarium, while others are the size of a Volkswagen bug. Some people prefer bright light, while others require a lot of shadow.
The compact root structure of epiphytic Bromeliads is designed for anchoring rather than moisture and nutrient intake and retention. Epiphytes require a light, fast-draining mix with little water holding capacity, or they would rot.
Terrestrial Bromeliads are larger and have root systems that are similar to those of other more common plants that require more soil volume and moisture.
A 50/50 combination of orchid bark and ordinary potting soil can also be used. Bromeliads don’t mind what kind of soil they grow in as long as it drains effectively. Avoid using dirt from your yard because it tends to hold a lot of water and very little air.
Cryptanthus, Guzmania, and Vriesia variants are mostly terrestrial and require a mix that can store more water (WHC). We utilize the following varieties for these varieties: Peat makes about 70% of the mixture, while perlite makes up 30%.
The most typical sizes for growing bromeliads are 4, 5, and 6″ pots.
We utilize 4″ azalea pots, which are shallower than a regular pot, for miniatures (plants 7″ tall or less) and offsets. If the plant is a larger variety or one that develops offshoots, it may need to be repotted into a 5″ or 6″ container after one or more seasons. Plastic pots are less expensive, but they may not be strong enough to support tall plants like billbergia. A layer of gravel at the bottom of the container is beneficial. This reduces soil volume, but because of the compact root structure of Bromeliads, this is usually not a concern.
Growing in terra cotta or clay pots is a good idea because they are heavier, less likely to tip over, and more appealing. Clay pots dry out faster than plastic pots, but bromeliads have low root zone moisture requirements, thus the extra aeration can be beneficial.
Allowing the plant to move or rock back and forth is not recommended. This harms the roots, which are still developing. If required, stake the plant with a bamboo or chop stick until the roots are firmly grown.
Any container that isn’t too large and has enough drainage would suffice. Epiphytes can also be mounted on trees or other buildings, as we shall discuss in a future article.
Epiphytic plants get its moisture mostly from their cup and leaves, therefore the pot and soil are primarily used for anchorage rather than nutrient and moisture retention, as is the case with terrestrial plants. They’ll be content if you provide them well-draining soil in a small enough container with appropriate drainage.
Cryptanthus and other terrestrial Bromeliads have root systems comparable to ‘regular’ plants and like loamy potting soil with sufficient drainage and aeration, which can be obtained in most bagged potting mixes.
When can I transplant a bromeliad?
Bromeliads have small root systems, therefore they do best in compact containers. Plants that are still young can be safely potted in 4 inch containers. If a young bromeliad has outgrown its container, it may benefit from repotting. The optimum time to do this is in the spring. A planter pot no larger than 6 inches will suffice for most full-sized bromeliads. Overwatering might be a problem if you use a larger plant container than you need. Take care not to put plants too deeply or too shallowly when repotting a giant bromeliad or small offsets. Crown rot can be avoided by planting a bromeliad towards the base of the leaves. If the plant’s root system isn’t strong enough to keep it upright in its new container, use wooden stakes to keep it in place. Allowing the bromeliad to move about freely can harm the roots as they develop. The stakes can be removed once the plant has grown a root system capable of supporting the plant’s weight.
Check out these wonderful articles for more information on bromeliad basic care:
Do bromeliads like sun or shade?
For four to six hours each day, place your bromeliad in partial shade or indirect sunshine – the extra light will help your plant bloom! Use a well-draining soil like potting mix with orchid bark and perlite for these tough plants. Bromeliads don’t require a lot of food throughout the growing season, but they do prefer slow-release fertilizer or diluted fertilizer. Avoid overfertilizing your plant, since this might lead it to become lanky and faded.
Can bromeliads grow without soil?
Imagine yourself traveling through a tropical rain forest, with lush green flora and brightly colored bromeliads growing in the trees above you. Do you believe this aesthetic could be achieved in Tallahassee? Maybe if you put forth a little effort.
If you’ve ever visited a botanical garden in central or southern Florida, you’ve probably seen bromeliads in the trees.
It’s unsafe to leave bromeliads outside in Leon County throughout the winter.
There are, however, solutions that will allow you to show bromeliads in a natural setting while yet providing them with the necessary winter protection.
Bromeliads mounted on a wood slab or driftwood make a portable plant that may be brought indoors.
Bromeliads hung from a tree branch, the side of a fence, or on the porch will give your landscape a tropical feel.
This also gives the plant a vertical dimension that is hard to achieve with other plants.
About 75% of bromeliads are epiphytes, which means they may grow on trees or other wood items (wood slabs, stumps, driftwood) without soil.
The bromeliad does not hurt the tree; it simply anchors itself to it with its roots. Spanish moss is a good example of an epiphytic bromeliad. The leaves of epiphytic bromeliads absorb the majority of the water and nutrients they require. Many bromeliads grow a rosette of leaves with a cup in the center that holds water and nutrients from falling leaves and debris. Small frogs and insects will be able to live in the center cup. In one of my hanging bromeliads, I even discovered a small oak snake chasing a frog.
Choosing the right wood for bromeliad mounting
Choose rot-resistant wood like cedar or cypress.
Wood slabs cut from the outside of the tree with the bark still attached are common in saw mills. These slabs are frequently thrown away as scrap. There should be no preservative in the wood slabs. Cork bark is another a wonderful option because it’s light, doesn’t retain moisture, and has a lot of toe-holds for the roots to grow into. It’s available from a variety of garden supply retailers online. Driftwood is another option that is readily available in our area. Because salt will kill the bromeliad, immerse the driftwood in fresh water for several days.
Plant selection. When choosing the plants to mount, you’ll need to perform some research. Bromeliads are divided into approximately 40 genera, each with numerous species. Tillandsias, Billbergias, Neoregelias, and Aechmeas are among of the most commonly recommended genera for mounting. Although Vrieseas and Guzmanias are lovely plants that can be used as hanging bromeliads, they require more water than other bromeliad genera. Request assistance from your nursery or place an online order. In Florida, there are several good mail-order nurseries that specialize in bromeliads. If you’re unsure, take a chance and buy a few inexpensive plants to try with.
Plants are being prepared.
Remove all soil and roots from the plants once you’ve decided which ones to mount.
Remove all soil debris from the plant and place it aside to dry.
Plants that are younger operate better; in fact, mounting pups, or offsets, from the mother plant is frequently recommended. When the pups from adult bromeliads are at least one-third the size of the mother plant, they can be removed. You can request puppies of the species you’re interested in while ordering plants online. They’re also less expensive than the full-grown plant.
Bromeliads are being mounted. The plants must then be attached. Consider the size, water, and light requirements of each plant while planning the design and placement. Arrange the plants on the slab of wood. On both sides of each plant, make a mark on the wood where it will be secured to the slab. Now, where the marks are, drill holes large enough to allow a plastic wire. The wire should be threaded through the two holes and wrapped around the plant’s base. Because the plant roots will not attach to the mount if it is too loose, make sure you achieve a good fit. Remove any excess wire using a wire cutter. Black wire ties from a hardware store’s electrical area work well here. Copper wire is poisonous to the plant, therefore don’t use it. The plant will establish its own roots and adhere to the mounting material after it is put on the wood slab.
Hot glue or construction adhesive such as Liquid Nail or Plumber’s Goop can be used to attach most of your smaller bromeliads, such as Tillandsias.
Apply a little adhesive to the plant’s base and attach some fibrous material to disguise the attachment site (sphagnum moss or coco fiber).
You can now relax and enjoy the show.
As the plants mature, they will blossom and produce new pups, creating a constantly changing appearance.
After the roots of the bromeliads have become attached to the wood, you can remove the wire.
When the mother plant dies, the pups will have taken over and you can remove it.
Hanging bromeliads will assist you get that look in Leon County, which I have always appreciated visiting tropical rain woods.
Don’t be frightened to try new things.
For your efforts, you will be rewarded.
Do bromeliads like small pots?
Surprisingly, a number of gardeners I know have left some of their bromeliads outside during the winter. At ground level, the potted bromeliads are placed amid other plants. They’ve discovered that as long as temps stay in the upper to mid-20s, they’re surprisingly hardy in sheltered, protected settings. During the extremely strong freezes in January, bromeliads outside would have required to be moved inside. As a result, don’t leave anything outside in the cold that you can’t easily move inside if necessary.
The majority of bromeliads are grown in well-drained potting mix in containers. Your newly purchased flowering bromeliad won’t need to be repotted into a larger container. It will fit in the container you purchase it in. If you buy a young plant that still needs to grow, you’ll have to repot it into a larger container as it outgrows the one it’s in. When you do, mix equal parts sphagnum peat moss, medium-grade horticultural perlite, and fine fir bark in a light potting soil with some extra perlite, or make your own using equal parts sphagnum peat moss, medium-grade horticultural perlite, and fine fir bark.
Because most bromeliads have short root systems, they are usually cultivated in pots that are too small for the plant’s size. As long as the pot has drainage holes, it can be made of clay or plastic. Because of their weight, clay pots are more sturdy and may be ideal for plants that are top heavy. In the bottom of the pot, a layer of pea gravel can add weight and stability (this does not help drainage).
Bromeliads prefer to be allowed to dry slightly between waterings, therefore the mix should not be kept constantly wet. Many bromeliad species can store a significant amount of water in the vase-like center of the plant. Because the leaves can absorb water, this should always be maintained full of water.
Can you plant two bromeliads together?
The pups should be potted once they’ve been separated. When grown as solitary specimens, most bromeliads look better. Examine the state of the bromeliad when you purchased it or received it as a gift. This is the greatest approach to cultivate the type you have if there is only one plant in the pot.
Use a light, fast-draining potting mix to separately pot each pup in a tiny container (usually a 4-inch pot will suffice).
If your bromeliad was growing in a cluster when you received it, you may want to keep it that way. The pups are kept together in the same pot in this scenario, and the original plants are simply cut out when they become unattractive.
Repot them into a larger container if they begin to outgrow the previous pot. Alternatively, you might divide them and pot them separately to create more distinct plants.
You may need to support the newly separated and potted pups at first because they will have poorly formed root systems or none at all. This can be accomplished by staking the plant with two or three small stakes until it is fully established (chopsticks or pencils work well). In order to sustain the pup, do not plant it too deeply. Bromeliads should only be planted up to the lowest leaves’ base.
Keep the plants in bright light while they’re roots, but not as much as you would for established plants. Keep the potting media damp but not wet all the time, and if the bromeliad develops a cup with its leaves, make sure it’s kept full of water. Provide more light to the youngster once it has established a strong foundation.
A certain amount of light is required for the mature plant to blossom. With proper care, blooming should take place one or two years after separation from the original plant.
The optimum time to grow a bromeliad outside is between April and October, when the weather is warm. Many species of bromeliads seem to thrive with a few hours of sun in the morning and shade the rest of the day.
The presence of plenty of light, warmth, and humidity fosters growth and makes flowering more likely.
The present that keeps on giving is bromeliads. It’s comforting to know that if all goes well with your abromeliad, you’ll have generations of plants. This is one of the many reasons why bromeliads are so enjoyable to cultivate and collect.
You always have extras to trade for new sorts or share with pals. Dividing bromeliad pups is also a fantastic technique to practice plant propagation.
Do bromeliads need fertilizer?
Fertilizer isn’t necessary for most bromeliads to thrive. Some types, on the other hand, can benefit from regular, light feedings. Providing them with more nutrition will help them produce more flowers and have better-looking foliage.
During the summer, bromeliads are actively growing and benefit from fertilizer. If you want to use a liquid fertilizer, dilute it to 1/4 strength and apply it to your plants. A time release powder or pellet composition is another option. The grains should be softly scattered around the bromeliad’s base. It is critical, regardless of your strategy, to keep fertilizer out of the central tank. Allowing fertilizer to sit in the central cup of your bromeliad might cause the foliage to burn and invite decay.
Make sure your plant doesn’t get too much fertilizer. When bromeliads are given too much fertilizer, their foliage becomes lanky and their vivid colors fade.
Do bromeliads like coffee grounds?
Hello, Scott! Coffee is the solution! First and foremost, nothing compares to the taste of freshly brewed coffee…and the aroma of freshly brewed coffee in the morning…what could be better? You also get a supply of coffee grounds to use on the garden when you’ve finished your coffee.
For the past few years, I’ve used coffee grounds in and around bromeliads, primarily Alcantarea, to stop slugs and snails from eating the leaves, and it also kills mosquitos when poured into the cups. Now, I merely shake out the container of leftover coffee grinds over and around the plants, so I think I’ve utilized it in moderation. It would be fascinating to see how much could be put into (and remained in) the brom cups before any damage occurred. My advice is to use it and then give the bromeliad a nice flush with new water over the next 24 hours.
Coffee grounds may be used to ‘treat’ palms and cycads, as well as bromeliads…this was mentioned on the plam discussion forum, so I tested it on Dypsis and a few scale-covered cycads. No more scale problems after mixing the coffee grinds with a pail of water and pouring it over the plant.
I’ve recently discovered a new application for them. I dug up an area of garden in our patio about a month ago, added nice fresh garden mix, and planted it out with mini mondo grass…well, the local cats loved it, digging up my fresh garden mix to use as their litter box…leaving mini modos scattered everywhere…after replanting them many times over, I thought about tipping coffee grounds over the area…and it worked, we haven’t had a single cat visit since. It would be interesting to observe if the coffee grounds method works with dogs, as they appear to enjoy delving into the stinky center of some broms.