Asparagus ferns don’t have any severe pest or disease problems, therefore they don’t need to be sprayed. Fertilize them when you fertilize other plants in the spring and summer, and they’ll generate a lot of deep-green growth.
Even for inexperienced gardeners, this plant is a safe bet. ‘Sprengeri’ is a good landscaping plant because of its fine-textured leaf and low mounding growth habit. It works well as a ground cover, a specimen, or in clusters.
Because of its ability to thrive in adverse environments, it will often grow where few other plants will.
Asparagus ferns are suitable choices where the fine texture of ferns is needed in reasonably bright situations since they withstand more sun than true ferns. Drought tolerance reduces the requirement for additional irrigation during the hot summer months.
It’s ideal for hanging baskets and containers since the long stems drop down gracefully.
Asparagus ferns are one of the drought-tolerant container plants. Because pots dry out so rapidly, this is a huge benefit.
The white fleshy structures linked to their roots are the key to their drought resistance. These structures store water to keep the plant alive during periods of drought. When transplanting or repotting plants, these structures may be visible. They are normal, healthy, and should not be removed in most cases (they cannot be used to propagate the plant).
When the roots of an asparagus fern are squeezed to the point of lifting the soil level an inch or two above the pot rim, it’s time to repotted. The rootball will seem and feel like a solid clump of tough roots at this point.
Divide it into two or more containers or repot it into a larger container. To divide the clump, cut it into two or more pieces using a saw yes, a saw. Don’t be concerned about severing the root’s water storage systems. To repot, use any well-drained potting soil.
Asparagus ferns thrive indoors as well. Place your plant near a sunny window with some direct sunlight. In the summer, keep the plant equally moist and fertilize with a liquid fertilizer. Asparagus ferns are often easier to care for indoors than real ferns, in my opinion.
Asparagus densiflorus ‘Meyers’ is another prominent asparagus fern in the area. The plant is known as the foxtail fern.
It has a more formal aspect than most other plants. Individual semi-erect stems resembling green fox tails have rich foliage grouped along them. The effect is similar to a spiky hairdo when combined.
The foxtail fern grows a little slower than the Sprengeri asparagus fern, but it’s just as hardy and dependable. The growth habit of the foxtail fern is striking, and it looks especially good in a container.
You might also come across Asparagus myriocladus on occasion. It looks like a little, fragile pine tree as a seedling. It finally matures into 4- to 5-foot arching spikes with delicate dark green foliage. It’s also known as the Ming fern.
Try asparagus ferns for a change of pace. You can contemplate something for your landscape rather than your plate the next time you think of asparagus.
How do you care for an asparagus fern indoors?
Asparagus ferns thrive in bright, indirect light away from direct sunlight. A minimum temperature of 13°C is required. Draughts and radiators should be avoided. Because Asparagus setaceus thrives in humid environments, it is best grown in a bright bathroom.
Can I bring my asparagus fern inside for the winter?
Asparagus ferns are commonly grown as potted plants in most environments, whether indoors or outdoors. If you bring asparagus ferns indoors before the temperature drops below 55 degrees Fahrenheit, they will endure the hard winter cold the best. Place the plant in a bright room away from drafts and heater vents. Asparagus ferns are sensitive to low humidity levels, so place the pot on top of a shallow pan filled with pebbles and fill the pan with water to enhance humidity around the foliage, according to Toronto Master Gardeners. Water only when the soil seems very dry on the surface during the winter months, as too much water can cause root problems in asparagus ferns.
Do asparagus ferns need full sun?
The asparagus fern is a spreading shrub native to southern South Africa’s coastal regions. Despite its common name, it is not a real fern; instead, depending on the classification system used, it belongs to the asparagus family (Asparagaceae) or the lily family (Liliaceae, which includes plants like amaryllis, daylilies, hosta, and tulips). It belongs to the Asparagus genus, which contains the edible Asparagus officinalis as well as over 300 other species. The exact classification of this species is a little hazy, with most references to Asparagus densiflorus, but some also use the names A. aethiopicus, A. sprengeri, and Protasparagus densiflorus.
This sensitive evergreen perennial with vivid green, ferny foliage is popular as a houseplant or outdoor ornamental plant. It’s used as a groundcover or in pots outside in warm regions. Up is hardy in zones 9-11, although if sheltered, the roots can easily make it to zone 7. It is grown as a seasonal annual or container plant in more temperate locations. The asparagus fern can be found in shaded, sandy areas such as coastal dunes, open rocky areas, and woodlands in its natural habitat. It is usually found along shady roadsides and invading woodlands or rainforests where it displaces native vegetation and hinders native species from reestablishing. In some parts of the United States, including as Florida, Texas, and Hawaii, it is classified an invasive weed.
The asparagus fern has long, erect or trailing branched stems with sharp, stiff spines sparsely covering the axils. The spherical stems, which can grow up to 6 feet long and have a slight indentation running the length of them, are green to brown in color and have a shallow indentation running the length of them. Leaf-like cladodes are what appear to be leaves (short, flattened stems that look and function like leaves). From the nodes along the stem, these needle-like “leaves” appear in groups of four to eight. True leaves are scales towards the cladodes’ base that are scarcely visible. Plants feature a fibrous root structure, creeping rhizomes, and a large number of fleshy white bulbous tubers.
From spring to fall, mature plants with enough light produce little white or pinkish-white flowers in elongated clusters (racemes) along the stems. There are six tepals on each flower (3 petals and 3 sepals similar in appearance). They are little and inconspicuous, despite being fragrant, and plants planted in temperate areas rarely bloom. Plants have two sexes. Female flowers are followed by little round berries up to 1/4 inch in diameter if pollinated. The green fruits turn a glossy crimson color as they mature and contain one to three black seeds each. Many birds are drawn to the fruits, and in mild climes, they are responsible for unintentional seed dissemination. When swallowed, the berries can cause rashes and gastrointestinal discomfort, and they are hazardous to cats and dogs.
Plant asparagus fern in full sun or moderate shade; full sun plants are more compact and dense than shade plants. It thrives in moist, organic-rich soils, although it tolerates a wide range of climates and is drought tolerant once established.
The vivid green, arching stems, and airy foliage of asparagus fern make it a popular decorative. Its fine foliage has a soft or fluffy appearance and can be utilized effectively for textural contrast when combined with plants with medium or coarse-textured foliage or very large leaves. In cold climates, it can be planted in the ground alongside other annuals as a bedding plant after the final frost. In containers, this plant works well as a filler plant, especially in hanging baskets or huge urns where the delicate foliage can cascade down. When mixed with elephant ears, canna lilies, and hibiscus, it provides a tropical feel. The leaf can also be used as a filler in bouquets with cut flowers.
The asparagus fern is an excellent houseplant for inexperienced gardeners because it requires little maintenance. It thrives in direct or brilliant indirect light (the brighter the light, the faster it grows), and it can withstand periods of neglect because to its tuberous roots that store water. It thrives in a continuous moisture environment, yet in the winter, the plants should be kept drier and fertilizing should be avoided. If the soil is too dry or there isn’t enough light, the leaf will yellow and drop. To maintain the plant shaped, cut out any old or yellowed stems at the base and clip back the ends of stems.
Trim out old growth in the spring and begin fertilizing monthly for lush new growth. Because these plants can quickly outgrow their containers, they will need to be repotted on a regular basis. Because the roots are so powerful that they might break pots, larger, thicker containers may be preferable. Early in the spring, before new growth begins, is the optimal time to repot. Indoor plants can be transplanted outdoors seasonally (returning before frost), but they must be acclimated to the brighter light outside before being moved to a full-sun location. Aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, and whiteflies occasionally infest this plant, which can be found indoors or out.
Seed and division are two ways to propagate asparagus fern. At room temperature, seeds germinate after 3-4 weeks. To speed germination, scarify the seeds and immerse them in water for a day before planting. Plants can be broken down into smaller parts, or tubers can be used to grow new plants. The optimal time to divide is in the spring, but these hardy plants can be propagated at practically any time of year.
‘Sprengeri’ and ‘Meyeri’ are the two most prevalent kinds. The latter, also known as foxtail asparagus fern, has more erect stems with thicker foliage that radiates outwards from the center of the plant, mimicking a fluffy animal’s tail. This variety works well as an erect focal point in the garden or in a container with lesser plants. In warm regions, it does not generate as much seed as the species, so it does not have the same invasive potential. ‘Cwebe’ boasts copper-colored new growth and beautiful, upright, arching stems. It thrives under bright light. More compact variants include ‘Sprengeri Nanus’ and ‘Sprengeri Compacta.’
Can you keep asparagus fern outside?
The asparagus fern plant (Asparagus aethiopicus syn. Asparagus densiflorus) is typically found in a hanging basket, where it can be used to decorate the deck or patio in the summer and to help clean the air in the winter. The asparagus fern plant is actually a Liliaceae family member, not a true fern. For the optimum leaf growth, cultivate asparagus ferns outside in a part-shady to shady setting. While the asparagus fern plant does occasionally flower, the little white flowers are insignificant and are not required for the beauty of asparagus fern cultivation.
How do you keep ferns alive indoors?
There are many tropical and subtropical fern species, but there are also many fern species endemic to more moderate areas. These ferns might thrive in colder areas of the house, but they won’t live in overheated spaces. In homes with central heating, tropical plants thrive. The following are ideal indoor conditions for fern growth:
Humidity
All ferns enjoy moisture and should be kept in a damp environment. Place their pots on trays of moist pebbles or clay grains in living rooms and family rooms. Unless the humidity of the entire room is kept high by the use of a humidifier, ferns also enjoy being misted at regular intervals with tepid, gentle water.
Compost/Soil
You also need to offer the correct compost. The majority of ferns are forest or woodland plants with soft, delicate roots that have adapted to the light forest soil rich in leaf mold and decomposed vegetable waste. Free-draining compost is essential for preventing waterlogging of the roots. The finest compost is one that has peat or a fibrous peat replacement, as well as enough of sand. The compost should never be allowed to dry out, which may necessitate watering the plant daily in a warm, dry environment.
Light
Although most ferns prefer moist, shaded environments such as forest floors, this does not mean they do not require light. Dappled light is their natural environment in the wild, and if the light intensity in the home is too low, you’ll notice poor growth and yellowing fronds. Keep your ferns away from direct sunlight, especially during the summer, and place them near a window that gets early or late afternoon sun. They will lose their leaves or have their fronds turn yellow if they are exposed to direct sunlight.
How do you make asparagus fern bushy?
When compared to other plants that get elongated, a leggy asparagus fern can appear unusual. You can have a lovely bushier plant and then, seemingly out of nowhere, a long stem arises. In a matter of days, this stem can grow to be 50cm or 1 meter long, and you’re left wondering why your asparagus fern looks like that. You can keep your plant if you like the way it looks, but if you don’t, let’s look at why this is occurring and what you can do to stop it.
Why Is My Asparagus Fern Leggy?
A lack of light is the primary cause of a leggy asparagus fern. Because these plants are frequently labeled as low-light houseplants, many people make the mistake of placing them in a dark corner where they receive very little light. It’s because they’re trying to grow towards the light that your asparagus fern is becoming lanky and lengthy stalks are sprouting outwards. If you observe this, the best thing you can do is relocate your plant to a brighter location. However, avoid placing your plant in direct sunlight during the day, since this might cause it to burn, especially if you reside in a hot, sunny climate.
If you don’t have access to a brighter location, your plant may benefit from grow lights such as these from Amazon. If you don’t have space near a window or live in a gloomy area, grow lights can act in a similar way as the sun, providing your plant with the light it need.
Will The Seasons Affect My Plant’s Growth?
You could notice a shift in the appearance of your asparagus fern as the seasons change. Over the summer, a plant that appears bushy and healthy may begin to show signs of damage during the winter. Your asparagus fern could very easily maintain growing during the winter if your home is warm, your plant is consistently hydrated, and the soil is rich in nutrients. The light could be the sole difference. Where your plant was accustomed to enjoying a full day of sunlight, it may suddenly only receive a few hours of very weak light. In other words, a plant that is good in the summer may turn lanky in the winter. If this is the case, don’t be afraid to change the location of your plant depending on the season. Changing the weather from day to day shouldn’t make a difference, but changing the seasons can.
Trimming A Leggy Asparagus Fern
You can easily clip the elongated stems away if you don’t like the look of a lanky asparagus fern. Make a cut with a sharp pair of clean scissors where you want the stem to end. You can do this with all of the elongated stems as long as they don’t make up more than half of the plant, then move your asparagus fern to a brighter position where it will grow bushier rather than leggier.
So now you know why your asparagus fern is leggy and how to fix it. However, keep in mind that it’s your plant, so if you prefer the lanky look and it’s still healthy and putting forth new growth, feel free to leave it alone and let it grow as it pleases.
Why is my indoor asparagus fern turning yellow?
The most common cause of yellow leaves on your fern is overwatering. Because the asparagus fern is thirstier than many other plants, it’s easy to overcompensate and feed it more than it requires if you don’t keep an eye on the soil. After 25 percent of the soil volume has dried, you should water. If the soil is consistently damp, it might cause root rot, which causes your roots to become black and mushy.
If you suspect overwatering, take the entire root ball out and examine the roots; white roots are healthy, whereas black or brown mushy roots are not. If you find rot, use a pair of sharp clean shears to cut away the damaged roots and repot your plant. You must also ensure that your pot has a drainage hole and that all excess water is allowed to drain every time you water it.
The asparagus fern thrives in a moist climate! Yellow leaves can also be caused by a lack of moisture in the air. Daily misting is beneficial to this plant, and a pebble tray or humidifier can assist keep it green and healthy.
The presence of yellow leaves can indicate either too much or too little light. Bright indirect sunlight is ideal for your fern’s growth. Avoid using too much or too little light. A window with an east-facing orientation is good.
If you’ve ruled out everything else, another option is that the soil is nutrient-depleted. Give your fern a monthly dosage of all-purpose plant food diluted to half strength in the spring and summer.
How often should I water my asparagus fern?
Garden plants should be watered once or twice a week to keep the soil from drying up completely. According to the University of Florida, asparagus ferns are generally drought tolerant, although they will develop at a slower rate if there isn’t enough moisture.
Does asparagus fern clean the air?
We spend up to 90% of our time indoors, cooped up in our homes, attempting to avoid costly energy loss while escaping the summer heat and winter chill. However, there is a dark cloud looming over the idyllic scene. Indoor air pollution, particularly volatile organic compounds (VOCs), is to blame.
Indoor air is one of the top five environmental health concerns, according to the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). VOCs are particularly unpleasant to those who have asthma or a chemical sensitivity in their lungs. These gases are produced by new furniture, adhesives used in carpeting and cabinets, paint, drywall, a wide range of personal-care items, and dry cleaning.
However, there is some good news on the home front: according to a study undertaken by a University of Georgia team, at least five common houseplants can purify the air of harmful VOCs.
The researchers looked at the potential of 28 common indoor plants to eliminate five harmful indoor pollutants: benzene (which was detected in high concentrations in Georgia drywall), toluene, octane, trichloroethene (TCE), and alpha-pinene.
“According to Kays, “the VOCs examined in this study have the potential to substantially harm the health of those who are exposed.”
The sheer abundance of these compounds in the families astounded him. “It was frightening, astounding, when we started checking the air quality in some of the houses. In just two residences, we found 179 VOCs. It reaffirmed that “we have a serious problem here, and most people are completely unaware of it.”
The Top 5
- Purple Waffle Plant Purple Waffle Plant (Hemigraphis alternata) The leaves of this lovely plant are puckered and slightly curved, with a scarlet underside. It’s a VOC-eliminating powerhouse, and it’s Professor Stanley Kay’s particular favorite.
- Ivy in English (Hedera helix) Ivy’s lush, fast-growing leaves makes for a lovely hanging or climbing plant, sucking up the quintuplet of VOCs produced by the University of Georgia. Keep the leaves out of reach of children and dogs, as they are poisonous if eaten.
- Wax Plant with Variegated Leaves (Hoya carnosa) In the summer, this tropical flowers beautifully, and its magnificent two-tone foliage inhales your home toxins all year.
- Fern of Asparagus (Asparagus densiflorus) Toxins are scrubbed clean out of the air by the plant’s lush growth. Meanwhile, even in the depths of winter, the exquisite spikes will brighten up a room. The berries, which can irritate the intestines, should not be eaten, and the plant might be hazardous to pets.
- Plant with a Purple Heart (Tradescantia pallida) This plant from the spiderwort family fills out to a big, magnificent hanging pot with its elongated, purple leaves. Its capacity to eliminate four of five VOCs benzene, toluene, TCE, and alpha-pinene was assessed as superior by researchers.
On the Horizon
While further research is required, Kays is confident about being able to provide plant-based solutions “in the future” prescriptions “I believe that by strategically placing plants in interior places, we may significantly improve people’s health,” he explains.
For much better breathing, how about a couple lovely plants? Sounds like a great idea with a lot of potential.
Can ferns grow indoors?
Indoor ferns thrive in north or east-facing windows where plants are kept out of direct sunlight. Sun exposure from south or west-facing windows is frequently too strong, scalding foliage. A sheer curtain or even moving the ferns further away from the windows will reduce the amount of light they receive. Indoor ferns thrive in temperatures of at least 65 degrees F during the day and around 10 degrees cooler at night, as they are tropical plants.
Ferns should be cultivated in a potting mix with plenty of organic matter and sufficient drainage. Most species can benefit from high-quality peat-based mixes. It’s just as vital to pick the correct container. As long as the pot has a drainage hole on the bottom, it will work. Excess water collects in pots without drainage, causing the roots to rot. Plant ferns in pots that are slightly larger than the root mass of the fern. Aim for a space of no more than one inch between the roots and the pot’s side.
Ferns have a variety of watering requirements, but they all prefer the soil to be kept continuously moist (not soggy). The soil should never be allowed to dry up completely, regardless of species, or the fronds will turn brown and die. Use warm, room-temperature water if possible, and soak the container until the water drains from the bottom. To avoid root rot, empty saucers beneath plants quickly after watering.
When ferns are actively growing in the spring through fall, light fertilizing is recommended. Fertilizer may be required if the leaves are very tiny or the fronds are yellowed. To avoid scorching the leaves, liquid houseplant fertilizers contain all of the required nutrients and should be applied at half the suggested rate.
Ferns also require a high level of humidity to thrive, which most homes lack throughout the winter. If the humidity is too low, fronds will become brown at the edges or turn yellow and droop. A humidifier, misting ferns using a misting bottle on a regular basis, or filling a pan with wet pebbles and setting the fern container on top, ensuring sure the bottom of the pot is not buried in water can all be used to create a humid environment. Planting them near together may boost humidity, but it will also reduce air circulation, which will favor disease growth. A nearby fan can help to alleviate the problem. Another option is to use sphagnum moss to fill the space between the fern’s container and a little larger container. The moss will aid in the removal of surplus water from clay (rather than plastic) containers, and as the water evaporates, the humidity around the fern will rise.
Best Ferns as Houseplants
If you’re new to growing ferns, start with a species that can handle a little less humidity and is more forgiving when it comes to watering. The species described below are well-suited to growing in an indoor setting and are extremely dependable.
Bird’s Nest Fern (Asplenium nidus)
The appearance of the bird’s nest fern differs from that of most other fern species. Its leathery, tongue-like fronds have prominent wavy edges and ribs down the middle, and they form a whorl that looks like a bird’s nest. It should be cultivated in a well-drained potting mix in a bright, north-facing window, preferably in a room with a temperature of no less than 55 degrees F. It’s important to keep the potting mix moist but not waterlogged. In the winter, the bird’s nest fern requires a lot of humidity, therefore humid areas like the bathroom or kitchen are perfect. It’ll also work to set the potted fern on a damp pebble tray.
Rabbit’s Foot Fern (Davallia fejeensis)
Rabbit’s foot ferns get their name from their fluffy rhizomes, which look a lot like their namesake. This evergreen fern is commonly cultivated in wire frames or hanging baskets, but it also makes a wonderful potted plant. The rhizomes will grow over and down the sides of a pot, giving the plant a distinctive appearance. Rabbit’s foot fern prefers to stay in its pot and should only be divided if the young fronds are smaller than usual. It thrives in damp environments, but a pebble tray or double potting will keep it looking excellent all winter.
Golden Polypody (Phlebodium aureum)
Some people name golden polypody rabbit’s foot fern because of the fuzzy scales that coat the rhizomes and grow over the edge of the pot. The fern’s spores are gold in hue, hence the name. The fronds are deeply split and can grow to be 12 to 18 inches long. Blue Star, a famous cultivated type, with distinctive azure fronds that are highly beautiful. To keep golden polypody looking its best, keep it in the bathroom or near a humidifier.
Cretan Brake Fern (Pteris cretica)
Try growing Cretan brake fern in your home’s warmest room, near a humidifier, or on top of a pebble tray. It also thrives in a tabletop terrarium with easy-to-maintain moisture. The Cretan brake fern is an evergreen plant with graceful fronds that grows slowly. ‘Albolineata’ is a fern variation with cream-colored streaks in the middle of its leaflets that is widely available in garden centers that sell ferns.
Boston Fern (Nephrolepsis exaltata)
Boston fern was a popular parlor plant in Victorian times, and it’s still popular now. Many people think it’s one of the easiest ferns to grow inside. The only catch is that the soil must be kept moist and the humidity high, or many of the fronds will turn brown and die. The Boston fern, on the other hand, is worth the effort because of its elegant sword-shaped fronds that arch downward as they age. The most common cultivar is ‘Bostoniensis,’ which has curly, wavy, twisted, or overlapping fronds.