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Tropical houseplant anthurium, commonly referred to as flamingo flower, is well-liked and comparatively simple to maintain. Although they are rare, illnesses can occasionally cause dark patches to appear on the plant’s leaves. After years of anthurium cultivation, we at last ran into the same problem. We discovered what was wrong and what to do about it because we didn’t want to lose our plant.
Why then do the leaves on your anthurium have brown spots? Leaf blight, also known as leaf spot, is the most typical cause and is brought on by bacteria that infects the leaves. Brown spots, however, can also result from dietary deficiencies or too much sunlight. Here’s how to resolve these issues and repair your anthurium.
If you discover bacterial illnesses and vitamin deficits early enough, they can both be cured. If the brown spots are little and haven’t spread past the leaves, it might still be possible to salvage your plant.
Natural Aging of your Anthurium
How long have you had your plant? The leaves might simply be aging naturally! Old growth will naturally wither and drop to make way for newer growth, especially near the bottom of the plant. Sharp shears should be used to remove wilting, yellowing, or browning leaves or blossoms so that the plant may focus its efforts on maintaining healthy growth.
Leaf blight is the rapid browning and yellowing of your anthurium leaves. Your plant is probably experiencing one of the problems listed below if it is deteriorating quickly and all over.
Your Anthurium is Suffering from Sunburn
However, direct sunshine will cause your leaves to quickly dry out and destroy the plant. The more light the plant receives, the more blossoms it will produce. Place your Anthurium in a spot with bright indirect light.
Nutrient Deficiency for your Anthurium
After being depleted from your potting soil, your anthurium may not be receiving adequate nutrients including nitrogen, phosphate, and potassium. Until your plant starts to recover, we advise using a controlled release fertilizer at only 1/4 the amount specified on the package.
Overwatering Leading to Root Rot
If persistently overwatered, tropical plants like anthurium are very prone to developing root rot. During the growing season, which runs from March through September, keep the soil just barely damp. After giving your Anthurium adequate water, wait until the top 25 to 50 percent of the soil has dried up before giving it more.
You should remove your plant from the pot if its health is fast declining so you can check for root rot. Trimming back the rot and repotting your anthurium are the only ways to aid in the recovery of your plant if the roots are slimy or black.
Save your Anthurium by Repotting
You must repot your anthurium in order to save it. You have to use fresh potting soil that drains nicely. To repot your plant, follow these instructions:
- Select a pot with drainage holes that is about 2 bigger than the existing pot.
- Your new potting mix should be placed in the new pot up to a third of the way.
- Slide your anthurium out of the pot slowly. Cut off any roots that appear to be dead or mushy using sharp shears.
- Then, add the leftover potting soil to the new container, flatten it down, and set the anthurium within.
- After giving the plant a good soak until the water runs out the bottom, give it some time to dry out.
What causes anthurium leaves to become brown?
Brown leaves may indicate your plant isn’t getting enough of the minerals it requires. Anthuriums require nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium to grow.
Many anthurium growers use controlled-release fertilizers to prevent this issue, but if your leaves have already turned brown, you might wish to use a liquid fertilizer for a few weeks until your plant recovers. Just remember to dilute the liquid fertilizer to 25% of the advised strength.
How does an overwatered anthurium appear?
Root rot can occur if your Anthurium is overwatered. How does that appear? The stems will become brown, and the roots will be mushy. Issues with soil quality or watering frequency could be the cause of this.
How frequently do I need to water my anthurium?
H2O and Humidity
Low to medium water requirements apply to this houseplant. In between waterings, let the soil to dry out. If you reside in a hot climate, water your lawn once every two to three days; if it rains frequently, water as needed. The anthurium needs appropriate drainage most of all.
How can I tell if my anthurium is in trouble?
Remember that it won’t be possible to revive your plant if it is fully dead. Your anthurium can be too far gone if ALL of the leaves and blooms are completely brown and crispy, or if ALL of the leaves have fallen off.
You can probably still salvage your anthurium if it is simply wilting or drooping or if the leaves have some brown patches on them. If you take care of issues as soon as they arise, you can repair problems including yellowing, losing leaves, and unblooming blooms.
Let’s examine some typical issues that lead to anthurium plant decline and how to resolve them to restore your plant.
How is anthurium revitalized?
The best way to revive an anthurium plant
- Put your plant somewhere brighter, but away from direct sunshine.
- Only water it once every week.
- Give it some additional plant food.
- You can discover how to repot your plant in this article.
How can brown patches on leaves be removed?
Don’t be fooled by how dry and thirsty brown leaf tips appear to be! Your plant might not even need water. Simple botanical investigation can assist identify the source of the issue. Just carry out the following actions:
1. Take a peek at what’s underground firsthand.
Diagnose the issue by observing what’s happening with weak roots. Although it is simpler with potted plants than with in-ground, landscape plants, a detailed inspection from below is still necessary.
Turn brown-tipped houseplants on their side and gently remove the plant by the base to coax it out of the pot. Most plants are simple to remove. Work it loose carefully if yours sticks. Don’t worry about damaging your plant; this is a common practice among experienced growers.
Avoid completely digging up landscape plants. Instead, concentrate on a specific area. Start at a location where rain drips down to the ground between the plant’s main stem or trunk and the outside border of its leaf canopy. To get a good look at what’s happening in the soil, drill a hole that is 6 to 12 inches deep. Dig multiple holes for larger plants to determine whether any issues appear to be widespread.
2. Check your drainage and dirt.
The soil around plants should typically feel cool and damp to the touch, whether they are safely tucked up in a living room nook or left out in the elements. Plants should never sit in water unless they are native to marshlands or aquatic plants. Whether they are in the ground or pots, roots require air to survive. drowning roots shut down and rot in wet soil, and new roots cannot grow. Plant tips turn brown from thirst if the roots are not strong and able to carry and absorb water.
The soil around the roots of a houseplant should keep its form and not drip water when it is removed from its pot. To ensure that water flows through if the soil is very wet, look for clogged drainage holes and clean them. To make sure you’re not watering your plants excessively, adjust your watering schedule accordingly.
If the dirt in your houseplants crumbles or takes on a hard, dry shape, water isn’t getting to the right places. To the point that water flows down the sides and entirely misses roots, soil might harden or peel away from the sides of pots. To maintain water flowing into the roots, break up any crust and push the dirt back up against the side of the container.
Landscape plants can be grown using the same techniques. If the soil in the planting area is excessively moist, either you or nature overwatered it or the soil is poorly drained. You haven’t watered enough or your soil is draining too quickly if your soil is hard, crusty, or exceptionally dry.
Dig a hole that is 12 inches deep and full of soil to test the landscape drainage. Completely let it drain, then quickly refill it with 12 inches of water. To determine how much water drains per hour, measure the depth of the water at 15-minute intervals. Your soil stays far too wet if less than 1 inch drains per hour. One to six inches per hour is ideal, but more than six inches per hour implies that water evaporates too quickly, depriving your plants of the nutrients they require. 1
If your planting area requires soil amendments, such as Lilly Miller Garden Gypsum to loosen compacted clay soils and improve water and root penetration or earthworm castings to increase organic matter and improve the soil’s ability to hold water and nutrients, soil testing can help you make this determination. Before planting in new outdoor spaces, it is always a good idea to examine the soil.
3. Pay particular attention to the roots.
The condition of their roots and their surroundings can be deduced from their roots. With a few colorful exceptions, healthy roots are white, firm, and smell fresh and earthy. Gray or brown roots typically smell like rot and are dead or dying from too much water, opportunistic illnesses, and damp soil.
Roots cannot be repaired once they become brittle and decay. We need new roots to take hold. Remove rotten roots from indoor plants before repotting them in fresh potting soil for a new start. You can use the same procedure for small garden and landscape plants, but you might require expert assistance with huge plants, such as landscape trees and large bushes. You can get advice on the best course of action from your county extension agent.
For landscape or container plants, roots that wind back on or around themselves can indicate danger. The state of being “root bound” is brought on by these circling or binding roots. This commonly occurs in containers that the plants outgrow or that weren’t big enough when they were first planted.
Established plants in pots should have roots that reach to the soil line but never wrap completely inside the pot. The remaining soil in pots cannot contain enough water to meet the demand if they are encircled by roots. Root-bound plants should be repotted into larger containers, but before doing so, gently release the roots with your hand. In this manner, roots might spread into fresh soil.
Ordinarily, landscape plants don’t have issues with bound roots unless the issue existed at the time of planting or the soil’s composition prevents regular, natural growth. This issue can be avoided in your landscape by conducting a soil test, adding the proper nutrients, and using a strong but gentle touch to break up any binding roots prior to planting.
4. Check for evidence of salt buildup or fertilizer residue.
When subjected to excessive fertilizer and salt buildup in the soil, plant tips may turn brown. Fertilizer burn, often referred to as tip burn, causes the tips of potted plants to turn brown when this occurs. The same issue occurs in landscape plants due to excessive fertilizer use or other elements like pet urine or winter deicing chemicals. Soluble salts accumulate in soil both inside and outside, depriving plant roots of hydration and causing an unnatural drought. Water-stressed plant tips consequently turn brown.
Salt buildup in indoor plants manifests as a white crust on the soil, saucers, and sides of permeable pots. Salts are forced out of the soil by heavily watering it, which also helps the environment around the roots return to normal. Simply place the pot in the bathtub or sink and water it until the soil is well saturated. Repeat the procedure multiple times to fully cleanse the dirt.
Don’t wait for the tips to turn brown if landscaping plants are subjected to overfertilization, salt from the road, or heavy pet use. To clear the soil and avoid tip burn, water plants liberally and frequently. The vigorous watering removes salt deposits. Plants may have been exposed over the winter if they begin to develop brown tips as the soil thaws in the spring. As soon as possible, heavily water the soil.
Feeding plants with a non-burning fertilizer, such as Alaska 5-1-1, will prevent fertilizer burn and will provide gentle, health-improving nutrients without hazardous buildup.
5. Stay on course with recuperating plants.
Adjust your care, especially watering, to keep your plants moving in the correct way once they are back on the road to health. Whether your plants are in a container or the ground, never water them automatically. To test the soil manually, dig down to the depth of your index finger. Wait a few days and recheck if it feels damp. Watering should be done if the soil seems dry. Allow tap water to sit overnight if you plan to water indoor plants with it. Fluoride and other elements that may contribute to brown tips are lessened as a result.
When watered deeply and sparingly, most plants in your house and garden will remain healthy. When watering indoor plants, make sure the entire soil is moist. After a brief period of drying, water the plants once more. A saucer loaded with pebbles at the base of the plant can assist maintain the proper balance of tips and moisture if the humidity in your environment is very low.
Most outdoor plants require the equivalent of at least one inch of rainfall per week, including natural precipitation, during active development seasons. This equates to around 5 gallons of water per square yard when watering. Even on huge landscape trees, the majority of the roots remain in the top 6 to 12 inches of soil. In most soils, one inch of water seeps down to that depth, supplying healthy roots with nutrients and hydrating leaf tips. 1
6. Dispose of the proof.
You don’t need brown tips to serve as a reminder of the past when your plant care regimen is working and your plants are progressing toward excellent health. As the seasons change, landscape plants will take care of the issue, but potted indoor plants could use some assistance.
Take advice from experienced interior designers.
the people who put brown tips behind you and take care of the indoor plants in stores and businesses. Cut away the brown, dead portions with sharp scissors. Just adhere to the leaf’s organic contour. As your plant grows, the cut will still have a small brown line, but the remainder of the leaf will remain healthy and green.
Your plants can switch their brown-tipped leaves for strong, healthy ones with a little inquiry, the required repairs, and continued care. You and your plants may go back on the path to good plant health and natural beauty with the aid of the Pennington line of plant care products.
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1. “Soil Basics” from the Cornell University Department of Horticulture.