How To Divide And Repot Anthurium

The good news is that splitting an anthurium plant is simple. Especially if your plant is growing quite large, you’ll be glad you did it. It will keep all the plants healthier and encourage greater blossoming if it is divided into more manageable portions.

Just remove the plant from the pot and divide a few of the roots. Look for the roots that are simple to separate and their offshoots. Replant in a fresh container after removing these.

You might split your anthurium in half or get 10 new plants, depending on how big it is. You should take advantage of this chance to give away your anthurium divisions. Give the ten potted anthuriums to friends or use them as hostess gifts if you don’t need them. A bouquet of these lovely and simple-to-grow tropical flowers would make anyone happy.

Can anthurium be grown from a cutting?

How are cuttings of Anthurium taken? A piece of the stem with at least two nodes should be cut off; for optimal results, choose a section that is currently producing aerial roots. Anthuriums cannot be multiplied solely from their leaves, however stem cuttings are robust and resistant. You can either transplant them directly into potting soil or root them in water or perlite.

Cutting anthuriums requires patience; the impatient should avoid this. Cuttings typically take many months to develop back to adult size because these plants are not in a hurry to enlarge. For more thorough directions on Flamingo Flower propagation, continue reading.

What should you do with an anthurium plant that is overgrown?

Regular anthurium trimming is necessary to maintain the plant’s balance and erect posture. The stem may bow if older growth is allowed to stay on the plant, which could lead to stunted growth. Here are some pointers for pruning anthuriums safely:

Examine your anthurium plant carefully, then start pruning from the top down. Eliminate any dead or discolored leaves. Cut wilted or dead flowers all the way to the stem’s base. To make the plant look better, you can also pluck stray leaves, but be sure to leave three to five. Remove elder leaves first, if you can.

Anthurium suckers should be removed from the plant’s base since they consume energy and shrink the size of the flowers. Trim the suckers when they are young since trimming huge suckers could harm the plant’s root system.

Use high-quality cutting tools to prevent the plant from being more vulnerable to disease and pests by tearing and crushing stems. Wipe cutting implements with rubbing alcohol or a 10% bleach solution after each cut to avoid bacterial contamination.

Note that anthurium includes poisonous substances for both people and animals. When trimming anthuriums, put on gloves to protect your hands from mild skin irritations brought on by the sap.

When should an anthurium be transplanted?

Before wilting and being replaced by new flowers, anthurium blossoms typically last for two to three months. This is a typical stage in the life cycle of an anthurium.

Every two to three years, or when they outgrow their current pot, anthuriums should be replanted. It’s time to graduate your anthurium to a new pot when it reaches 20 inches in height in a five-inch-diameter container.

What kind of soil is ideal for anthurium?

Soil. Anthuriums favor rough, permeable potting. Anthuriums grow best in potting mixture made from an orchid mix with extra sand and peat moss added.

How is an anthurium transplanted?

Get a pot ready that is one size bigger than the one you have. Generally speaking, the new container’s diameter shouldn’t be more than one or two inches (2.5–5 cm) greater.

To prevent potting soil from escaping through the drainage hole, cover it with a small piece of mesh, a paper towel, or a coffee filter.

A moist rootball makes it simpler to repot the anthurium and is much better for the plant overall. Water the anthurium well a few hours before doing so.

Use potting soil that is as close as possible to the plant’s present potting mix. A very light, loose medium with a pH of about 6.5 is necessary for anthurium. Use a mixture if you’re unsure, such as two parts orchid mix, one part peat, and one part perlite, or peat, pine bark, and perlite in equal amounts.

Add just enough additional potting soil to the new container so that the top of the anthurium’s rootball is at least an inch (2.5 cm) below the rim. The plant should be replanted at the same soil depth as it was in the original pot.

Carefully remove the anthurium from its pot. To loosen the roots, gently tease the compressed rootball with your fingertips.

After setting the anthurium in the pot, cover the root ball with potting soil. With your fingertips, gently press the potting soil.

If additional potting soil is required, add it after softly watering the soil to settle it. Once more, it’s crucial to place the anthurium’s old pot at the same height as the top of the root ball. If a plant is buried too deeply when planting, it could rot.

For a few days, place the plant in a shaded spot. If the plant appears a little worse for wear the first few days, don’t worry. Repotting anthuriums frequently causes slight wilting.

After repotting an anthurium, wait a few months to fertilize it to give the plant time to adapt to its new container.

Are anthuriums tolerant of root binding?

You might need to repot your plant in order to maintain the lovely green leaves and blossoms of your dazzling anthurium. Your anthurium likely needs repotting if you’ve kept it for more than six to twelve months in order to keep it healthy.

A plant with its roots confined to its pot will not flower as well or be as healthy as one with space for its feet. You can use a number of signs to determine when to repot anthurium.

If grown under the appropriate circumstances, a robust anthurium can be encouraged to bloom all year long.

The two most obvious symptoms that your plant needs to be repotted are browning leaves and roots straining to escape the pot.

What are some uses for leggy anthurium?

Over time, anthuriums frequently lose their lower leaves and start to sag. Rachel Bernier in a photo

My anthurium has been blooming and growing for the past four years, but it has recently grown very spindly, has a lot of bare stem at the base, and can no longer even stand up on its own without being staked. Can I bury a portion of the bare stem in potting soil when I repot the plant, even though I know I should?

The anthurium, also known as the flamingo flower or painter’s palette (Anthurium andraeanum and its hybrids), is a well-liked indoor plant that can bloom all year long. It has an inflorescence that resembles a waxy, leathery, heart-shaped bract called a spathe. The spathe can be one of several colors, including red, pink, white, purple, green, or bicolor, and it has a slender yellow to cream spadix (spike) at the top. It also has heart-shaped leaves. It is the most well-known of about 1000 anthurium species that are all indigenous to the tropics of the New World.

Yes, you should lower the plant in its new pot in order to conceal the exposed stem.

The anthurium resembles the phalaenopsis orchid in many respects, growing similar thick aerial roots on a stem that grows over time even as the lower leaves slowly wither and are destroyed, transforming what was once a compact, dense plant into something rather awkward and even floppy. But if you repot the plant and cover the exposed stem with dirt, the plant will not only look shorter and denser and hence more attractive, but the covered roots will also begin to lengthen and give it new strength.

Additionally, after 4 years, the original potting soil has likely compacted and become tainted with mineral salts, which anthuriums abhor greatly. Therefore, I’d say it’s definitely time to repot your specimen. Lower it into its pot as you do so.

This is how:

First off, you can repot an anthurium at any time of year, but you’ll find that it recovers best between early spring and midsummer, when it is naturally growing the fastest.

Although the anthurium develops like an orchid, you can use regular potting soil, but it will actually prefer something lighter and better aerated, like orchid mix or a 50/50 mixture of orchid mix and houseplant mix. That will aid in simulating the natural epiphytic (on tree branches) growing circumstances of this plant.

A pot with drainage holes that is probably 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) larger than the original pot is also required.

Remove any dead or yellowing leaves and faded blossoms from the plant and give it a light cleaning before planting. Additionally, remove the stipules off the stem, those tiny brown growths that resemble leaves and were formerly used to shield the leaves when they were young and sensitive but now seem to dry up and hang on indefinitely, giving your plant an untidy appearance. Removing them is entirely justified because they are no longer needed.

Finally, thoroughly water your anthurium a few hours before potting it to prevent transplant shock by moistening the roots.

The growth mix should first be moistened by pouring it into a pail or basin, adding tepid water, and thoroughly mixing. It only has to be humid, not drenched in rain.

Turn the pot over down at this point, then tap the bottom of the pot with the palm of your hand while holding the plant’s base between your fingers. The root ball should come loose when you give it a somewhat forceful knock. Usually, this is all it takes, and the pot may be removed effortlessly.

Your plant is likely linked to the soil by thick roots that wrap around it. This is how anthuriums typically behave. If so, trim the very long ones and spread the others out by pulling on them. Work your fingers in and around the roots to remove as much of the old soil as you can. You can also use pruning shears to cut out any rotten or dead roots.

Additionally, it’s highly possible that the plant has generated a massive amount of roots—far more than it could possibly reasonably use—making it challenging to repot the plant. If so, drastically reduce the size of the rootball by removing up to one-third of the roots, particularly those at the bottom. This won’t harm the plant; on the contrary, it will help it recover more quickly.

You can use repotting as an opportunity to divide your plant if there are multiple plants in the pot, which is frequently the case. Simply pull a little to separate the plants and untangle their roots. Again, don’t worry if you need to remove a few roots to accomplish this.

By this time, the old soil ought to have mostly disappeared, leaving you with an almost bare-root plant that is prepared for potting.

Put some potting soil in the bottom of the new container before laying the plant on top of it, lowering it from where it was before so that its exposed stem will be covered. Sometimes you have to hold it and push it down because otherwise it will almost immediately pop out of its pot!

Add potting mix while maintaining the plant’s center and desired depth. Use a stick, a pencil, or your fingers to push the potting mix into the plant’s roots. Work the soil well around the plant’s roots; if it wobbles, add additional soil and work it in deeper. You want the plant to establish itself firmly in its new surroundings.

Once the plant has recovered from the shock, water it thoroughly, then put it in the shade for a few days. Then, relocate it back to its preferred setting, probably somewhere with moderate light but not too much direct sun.

Some anthuriums can reach heights of 4 to 8 inches (10, 15, or 20 cm), or even more, with their bare stems.

because, at least without using a very deep container, it would just not be possible to cover every single bare stem as you repot. Instead of just repotting the plant in this situation, the top should be taken off and rooted.

Cut the stem to leave about 3 to 6 inches (8 to 15 cm) of bare stem at the cutting. Clean up the cutting once more, getting rid of any stipules, older or yellowing leaves, and any blossoms (don’t worry, more will emerge soon enough!). Use the same extra-light potting soil—orchid mix or half orchid mix, half houseplant soil—that is recommended for adult plants.

To form a hole in the center, insert a stick or pencil and fill a clean pot roughly the same size as the first one with the pre-moistened mix to within 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the upper pot edge. No rooting hormone is necessary, so simply slide the cutting into the hole and lightly compact the mixture around it to keep it erect. Water wisely.

To maintain high humidity, cover the pot with a clear plastic dome or bag and relocate it to a warm, dimly lit area out of the direct sun. When new leaves start to grow, the cutting has taken root and can be uncovered and relocated to its usual location.

After you’ve removed the plant’s top, repot the plant’s base using the techniques outlined above rather than throwing it away. A new stem will start to develop right below the previous one’s cut-back location within a few weeks, and the plant will soon recover entirely. In around 6 months, it’ll probably start to blossom again.

Consequently, you now have two anthuriums rather than just one. Next Christmas, someone’s going to receive a lovely homemade gift!

Don’t let your anthurium get this bad in the future. Repot your plant on average every two years, while the naked stem is still reasonably short and simple to bury, and before the soil has a chance to become contaminated. Your anthurium will remain lovely in this manner.