I already discussed tillandsia maintenance in one post and terrarium construction in another. Since posting these two pieces, I’ve noticed that one of the air plant terrariums in the Carrboro store is performing exceptionally well. Every plant we place there thrives until someone comes along to buy it. Since seeing this phenomena, I’ve started imitating the layers in other terrariums with similar results. In this post, I’d want to go over this particular terrarium design in further depth, as well as explain the steps for constructing your own successful air plant terrarium. This terrarium approach has three layers: the foundation, the moss, and the ornamental.
The bottom layer, as with other terrariums, is for drainage. This layer, which is made up of inorganic materials such as sand, stones, seashells, and marbles, keeps organic stuff from degrading. This layer also prevents tillandsia from sitting in water, which I have discovered to be a swift death for these small bromeliaceae. I prefer stones in my terrariums, although I’ve experimented with a variety of materials. Because the pots are smaller, the glass is usually thinner, and we want the focus to be on the plants, use a very thin covering, about 1/2 to 1/4 inch, for the air plant terrarium. While this layer catches any excess moisture, an air plant terrarium should not have too much excess moisture, which is why this layer can be so thin.
After that, apply a thick covering of moss to help retain moisture. This is a fun portion; use whatever you think looks nice. Keep in mind that you’ll only be able to see it from the sides. Sheet moss, reindeer moss (actually a lichen), sphagnum moss, and some odd materials I discovered in a DIY potpourri kit at a craft store have all been used. Although it may appear unusual to have one layer to retain extra moisture directly on top of another to keep it out, this moss layer provides the humidity that tillandsia require. When I only have a drainage layer, the water evaporates much too quickly due to the plants’ need for airflow, and I soon found dead tillandsia. It was a far more gradual death than drowning, but it was still fatal. As a result, the mossy layer adds humidity to compensate for the increased air movement. That, as well as the fact that it looks fantastic.
Having just these two layers, in my experience, isn’t quite enough to keep air plants healthy and thriving. The added dampness in the moss layer, which is pressed up against the small tillandsia, can cause another terrible decay. Add another drainage layer as a solution. This is a little more difficult than simply covering the moss with another 1/4 inch of stones. I still want to see the majority of the lovely decorative moss I added to the terrarium, and I want every surface that isn’t immediately touching my plants to give as much humidity as possible. To fulfill these aesthetic and practical objectives, I place stones exactly beneath the spot where I intend to plant my tillandsia. The stones keep the plants from touching the moss, while also allowing the moss to be seen and fulfill its role of delivering humidity to the terrarium. They also offer another attractive, ornamental aspect to the terrarium. Any inorganic substance, just like in the base drainage layer, should function here. At home, I even have a few damaged terra cotta pots. It should be fine if the very top of the moss touches the tillandsia, as long as it is only a small amount here and there.
Place your plants on the top-most drainage items once all three layers are in place, tweak until you have the placement you desire, and voila: one amazingly successful and stunning air plant terrarium.
Are air plants good for terrariums?
I recently visited the Edison and Ford Winter Estates in Ft. Myers, Florida, where I viewed their homes, gardens, laboratories, and museum. The plant collections there are fascinating, particularly those of the rubber trees that were evaluated as potential tire materials suppliers.
I took use of Edison’s most famous invention, the light bulb, by purchasing a small terrarium-style hanging planter styled like a light bulb. An air plant sits in sphagnum moss on the inside. I adore looking at it every day because it hangs above my kitchen window.
The Bromeliad family’s air plants, commonly known as Tillandsia, are fascinating plants. Bromeliads are all epiphytes, meaning they rely on something else for support. As a result, plants in nature use their root systems to grow on trees and rocks without harming them. Rather than obtaining water and nutrients from the soil through their roots, they obtain them from the air and rain through their leaves.
Simply give three essentials to maintain air plants healthy and happy: sun, water, and air movement.
First, light in the form of filtered, rather than direct, sunshine from a south, east, or west window is required. You can hang them outside in a tree or other sheltered spot throughout the summer.
Second, appropriate irrigation is essential for Tillandsia growth. I mist mine every few days to keep the sphagnum moss substrate moist while allowing the plant to dry out slightly in between waterings. The leaves are too dry if they curl or roll. Submerge the plant in water overnight to revive it, then shake off any excess water before returning it to its display spot.
Third, proper air circulation allows the plant to dry out between waterings, which helps it avoid illnesses.
Terrariums, which are clear glass or plastic containers packed with miniature plants, are ideal for displaying air plants. Typically, terrariums are securely closed, but one side of my light-bulb-shaped container is fully open to aid air circulation.
- The Peoria and Havana Extension offices will display the 1:30 p.m. session on Tuesday.
How do you take care of air plants in a terrarium?
I know you thought spritzing your tilly every few days would suffice, but it won’t. Air plants, on the other hand, require a little more attention. In these parts, I’m known as the air plant whisperer, and this is what I do: Once a week, I dunk them in a container large enough to thoroughly submerge them and let them sit there. For a long time. I always intend to soak my plants overnight, like Airplant Man said. On Fridays, however, I do it for a few hours (I keep mine at work and don’t see them on weekends). It varies, but a weekly dunking for several hours hasn’t harmed any of them, and they’re all prospering.
Do air plants have to be in glass?
Air plants are extremely hardy and low-maintenance. We’ve seen them live for up to two weeks without light or water in a shipping box (Do not try that at home). You’ll want to open the package as soon as your new air plants arrive. We ship our air plants via Priority Mail, which takes 2 to 3 days to arrive, however they require light, air, and water just like any other plant.
Soak your air plants in room temperature water for 20 to 60 minutes to help them cope with the stress of transportation. Simply fill a bowl halfway with water and completely submerge the plants. Chlorine and/or fluoride are commonly found in municipal water. Your air plants will like well water, pond water, creek water, or rain water. You can also use spring water that has been bottled. Use tap water instead of distilled water since distilled water lacks the natural minerals and nutrients that air plants require. Because air plants do not exist in soil, they rely only on their leaves for moisture, light, and nutrients.
Your air plants’ leaves may have a white, fuzzy film on them, particularly after a good soaking. These are referred to as Trichomes. Trichomes are tiny outgrowths on the leaves that help the plants absorb water and nutrients. They aren’t a fungus or mold.
Remove your air plants from the water after their soak, carefully shake out the excess water, and lay them out on their side or upside down to dry completely before displaying them. A sunny window sill is ideal for drying them and soaking up some sunlight. Keep your air plants out of direct sunlight. They prefer indirect sunlight that is bright. If you’re going to put your air plants in a glass terrarium, a wall hanging display, or any other enclosure (or in a hole to stand them up), make sure they’re absolutely dry first. Allowing your air plants to completely dry decreases the chance of their decaying.
Within one to two hours, your air plants should be completely dry. When they’re dry, hang them in a place where they’ll get plenty of bright, indirect light. Avoid exposing them to direct sunshine as this may soon dry them out. Your air plants will usually just require a 30-minute soak in water once a week. In addition to the soak, you may need to spritz them with water once a week if they are in an extremely dry or heated climate. If the leaves start to curl, you know they’re getting too dry. If you notice this, give them a nice bath. Keep in mind that, despite their name, air plants require a little more than just oxygen to thrive.
If you can’t soak your air plants in a bowl of water because of how they’re displayed, you can spray them with water two or three times a week instead.
What do air plants do?
Air plants get their nutrition from the air and moisture around them. As a result, finding them a home is simple. Use ordinary pots, terrariums, frames, seashells, urchins, baskets, and bowls to display them. You can also use wires, fishing lines, or glue to hang or attach them to wood, cork bark, and wreaths.
Where should I put my air plant?
All air plants are native to tropical areas where freezing and frost are unheard of. Is it necessary to keep them at temperatures that you are comfortable in without wearing a sweater? Temperatures are usually in the 60s and higher. Place them away from air conditioner vents and drafty winter windows.
Air plants need at least a few hours of bright, indirect sunlight per day to thrive. It’s best to put it within 1 to 3 feet of an east- or west-facing window, or within a foot or two of a light source. They may have hotter, more direct sun and longer exposure if you keep them well watered. Avoid places that are dimly lighted.
Is an air plant a succulent?
Succulents and air plants are not the same thing. Succulents have plump or juicy sections, whereas air plants have prickly leaves. The most notable distinction is that air plants get their nutrients from the air and are watered by spraying, whereas succulents live and eat in the earth.
How often should I mist my air plant?
Air plants in glass globes have grown so popular that I’m always getting calls asking how to care for them. Follow these simple instructions to get the most out of your glass-encased plant. If you’re seeking for glass globes, our shop has a wide selection of distinctive patterns.
- When you initially get your plant, immerse it in water for 20-30 minutes. Take note of the plant’s size and color to determine how content it is. Keep this “image” in your thoughts at all times.
- Every 4-5 days, mist your plant with one spray for tiny globes, 2-3 sprays for globes 3-5 inches in diameter, and more if the plant is in a large open globe. The trick is to determine the drying time; the smaller the globe, the less circulation, the longer the plant will retain moisture. The plant will perish if it is overwatered.
- Remember how your plant appeared after it had been soaked? If it has lost its joyful, healthy appearance, remove it from the globe and soak it for 30 minutes to an hour, then shake it and allow it dry almost entirely before replacing it.
- Do not position your globes in front of a window that receives direct sunlight. Keep in mind that the glass will magnify the sunshine and heat. The ideal light is indirect light, and certain plants may even flourish in low to moderate light.
- Ionantha Guatemala, Ionantha Rubra, Ionantha Scaposa, Ionantha Mexican, Ionantha Fuego, Funkiana, Argentea, Bulbosa Guatemala, and Butzii are some of the most popular globe plants.
- The care instructions that follow are more detailed, so dive right in! As I’ve learnt more over the last year, I’ve added more.
How long do air plants live?
Air plants, often known as tillandsias, are perennial plants. This indicates they survive for an average of more than two years (source), with a lifespan ranging from two to five years. However, the length of time they live depends on the type of air plant as well as the growing conditions.
What do you do when you first get an air plant?
The name “air plant” is a little deceiving. Members of the Tillandsia genus are named after the fact that they may grow without any soil at all. In reality, one of the most common misconceptions we encounter in air plant care is assuming that Tillandsia just require air to survive.
Air plants are epiphytic (meaning they grow on other plants without harming them) and emerge from the curves and branches of trees in their natural habitat of South and Central America’s forests, mountains, and deserts.
Air plants are among our favorites; they look great on their own and are included in many of our Plant Craft items, such as aeriums and mounts.
The following are the best methods for air plant care that we advocate. We’ll start with an overview of how to care for air plants in general, then move on to specific adaptations for aeriums, terrariums, and mounted Tillandsia.
Air plants require strong, indirect light to grow. Rooms with southern or eastern facing windows are ideal because they will be brilliantly lit by the sun for the majority of the day. North-facing windows also perform well, as long as the plant is close to the window and the window isn’t obscured by trees or a neighboring apartment complex. Western light arrives late in the day and can be extremely hot and strong. You don’t want to fry your air plant, so be careful!
As a general rule, the more light the air plant can tolerate, the higher the humidity in your environment. This implies that if you’re going to put your air plant somewhere where it’ll get a lot of light, you’ll need to spray it more frequently – twice a week, if not everyday. Because the humidity from your shower will take care of most plant misting, a sunny bathroom provides a great home for an air plant.
Many customers question if they can keep an air plant in an office or basement room with no natural light. Yes, however there are a few guidelines to follow in order to assure your plant’s success.
It’s essential to use full spectrum (fluorescent) lighting. Regular incandescent bulbs do not produce the quality of light required for photosynthesizing by these plants. Your Tillandsia should be no more than 3 feet from the source of light. Also, if you’re using fluorescent lighting, the plants will need at least 12 hours of light per day.
If you live in a basement or want an air plant in your office, we recommend purchasing a dedicated bulb for your plant (such as a Gro-Lux, Repta-Sun, or Vita-Lite) and placing it on a 12-hour timer to ensure that your plant receives all of the light it need.
Watering an air plant is the most difficult aspect of air plant upkeep. Some people swear by misting, while others swear by soaking, and still others combine the two in their air plant care routine.
Watering air plants is difficult in our experience because the plant’s needs vary drastically depending on the location in which it is situated. The first step in watering your air plant is to assess its surroundings. What kind of light does your plant get? At this time of year, what is the temperature in your home? Is the environment excessively dry (does your plant have access to a heater or fireplace?) Is it hot and humid?
After you’ve answered these questions, you can tailor the air plant watering schedule to your specific requirements. As a starting point, we recommend the following:
- Soak your air plant in room temperature tap water (or rain/pond water if you can find it) for 5-10 minutes every one to two weeks.
- After soaking, gently shake your plant to remove any extra water. In a light area, turn it upside down and place it on a towel. This is vital information! If you leave your air plants in too much water, they will quickly rot.
- The plant should be able to dry completely in no more than 3 hours after the soaking is finished. If your plant is left wet for an extended period of time, it may rot. To help things dry faster, try putting it in a brighter area with better air circulation.
- Mist your plant thoroughly once a week to ensure that the entire surface is wet (but not so much that there is water dripping down into the plant).
- The more water you need to water as the weather gets hotter and dryer (summer, early fall). The less water your air plant needs the cooler and more humid the air is (winter and spring). But keep in mind that heaters and fires dry out the air!
- Do all of your watering first thing in the morning. Evening soaking or misting interferes with the plants’ capacity to breathe overnight, resulting in a longer drying time.
The browning or crisping of your air plant’s leaf tips is a sign that it’s been under-watered. When air plants are under-watered, their inherent concave shape becomes more pronounced.
Unfortunately, it’s generally too late to salvage your air plant if it’s been over-watered. Your plant has likely succumbed to rot if the base of the plant turns dark or black, and leaves are dropping out or off from the center.
When it comes to temperature, air plants are relatively laid-back. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 50 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures should be around 10 degrees colder at night than they are during the day.
Once or twice a month, incorporate orchid or Bromeliad fertilizer into your watering routine to keep your air plant happy. Simply sprinkle a pinch into your water and carry on as usual. Fertilizing your air plant promotes blooming and reproduction (or pup more on this later)
Air plants only flower once in their lives, did you know? These blossoms can last anywhere from a few days to a few months, depending on the species, and can come in a wide range of vibrant colors, including pink, red, and purple. Flowering is the highest point in an air plant’s life cycle, but it also signals the start of the plant’s old age: after flowering, the plant will die.
But don’t give up! Depending on the species, your air plant will reproduce by putting out 2-8 flowers just before, during, or after flowering “Puppies.” These tiny air plants will eventually grow into their own mother plants, despite their modest size. When the pups are about 1/3-1/2 the size of the mother plant, they can be securely separated. Take care not to pull them out too soon, since they are absorbing nutrients from the mother air plant!
Above: A brass mister is a stylish and classic Tillandsia Xerographica companion.
While larger air plants look great on a windowsill or tabletop, we prefer to incorporate their smaller siblings into our living art “Aeriums” are a type of terrarium that is solely dedicated to air plants! Here’s everything you need to know about air plant care in glass.
- Simply take your plant from the aerium, terrarium, or glass to mist/soak it, then allow it to dry before putting it in the glass, as directed above.
- Keep in mind that maintaining your air plant in glass will produce a microclimate in which the glass vessels will be more humid and hot than the surrounding space.
- Avoid placing glass vessels too close to a window. The sun’s beams are amplified through glass. You don’t want your plant to cook!
- You won’t be able to soak your plant because it won’t come out of the glass, so you’ll have to rely only on misting. This is perfectly OK.
- Smaller glass means less air circulation, which means longer drying time for the plant and less misting.
- Larger glass = more air circulation = faster plant drying time = more misting.
- When misting your air plant, make sure to mist around it rather than directly into it. You don’t want to overwater it; instead, you want to keep it moist.
- We recommend starting with weekly misting and adjusting as needed, depending on the vessel.
You won’t be able to soak your mounted air plant like you can with air plants in small glass vessels. Mounted air plants, on the other hand, will require more regular misting than aeriums because they are not enclosed in a humid microclimate. Starting with twice weekly misting and adjusting as needed, depending on how long it takes your plant to dry in your location, we recommend starting with twice weekly misting.
If you follow these air plant care instructions, your Tillandsia should thrive in no time! Do you have any queries or tips regarding caring for air plants? Let us know in the comments!
Can you use tap water for air plants?
On our Facebook page, we get a lot of queries on how to water air plants, so I wanted to elaborate a little. While Tillandsia (also known as air plants) are easier to care for than many other plant kinds, they do require some upkeep and TLC, and water plays an important role in their overall health. Here are some of the most common questions we hear about watering air plants, along with our answers:
This is mostly determined by your climate and where you keep the air plants, as well as the Tillandsia species (learn more about mesic vs. xeric air plants here) and the type of environment in which it grows in nature. We reside in Tampa, FL, so it’s very humid here for the majority of the year, and we don’t run the heat in our house during the winter like our friends up North (I’m not trying to rub it in!). We water our plants twice a week on average, but individuals who live in drier climes will need to water more frequently. Depending on the time of year, you may discover that you need to water your plants less. It also depends on where you keep them in your house or office. A humid bathroom will keep the plants moist, but those near an air vent or heat source will need to be watered more frequently. (Please note that keeping your plants near heat sources is not recommended.)
Note that, while humidity might slow the drying process, it is not a suitable watering method in and of itself!
Again, you’ll want to adapt your watering methods based on your climate and air plant species, but we recommend soaking your plants in water at least once a week for MOST air plants and settings. You can use anything that allows you to totally submerge the air plants, such as a bowl, bucket, or your sink. Soak them for 30-60 minutes at least once a week, and every other week if you live in a dry area, give them a longer soak for an hour or more. If you live in a humid environment or have a xeric air plant, you may want to cut the soak time in half.
After bathing, make sure the air plants are completely dry. Turn them over and softly shake them, or lay them out to dry with the leaves down. Allowing water to remain in the leaves can cause the plants to decay. The plants should be placed in an area with sufficient air circulation and should be able to dry entirely in 4 hours. If your plants are housed in a globe or terrarium, ensure sure they are thoroughly dry before bringing them back home!
You’ll notice how wide and open the leaves are after soaking them, and how much more “happy” they appear. This is how a properly hydrated air plant should seem! If the color turns slightly dull and the leaves begin to close/curl over time, this is an indication that your Tillandsia is thirsty, and you should give them another soak. If your air plant is in desperate need of water, soak it for several hours or overnight to see if you can rehydrate it. Before soaking or spraying them again, make sure they have a chance to dry thoroughly.
It’s also a good idea to spray the plants in between waterings. If you live in a dry area, this might be a terrific method to keep plants healthy and offer them some additional attention. Unless you have one of the few varieties of air plants that like low moisture, such as the T. tectorum (which we only propose misting) or the T. xerographica, misting is not a substitute for a proper soak (which we recommend dunking instead of soaking).
When it comes to water, air plants aren’t picky, and most tap water is good, but it all depends on the water quality in your location. Because these waters are more nutrient-dense, the best water to use is rain water, aquarium water, or pond water (note: if using one of these waters, don’t add any additional fertilizer). If you’re using tap water, let it out for a few hours to allow the chlorine to disperse (maybe 24 hours in some areas.)
Do not use distilled water because it is too “clean” for these plants and will deprive them of the nutrients they require. Also, avoid using artificially softened water because it contains too much salt for Tillandsia.
We recommend soaking your air plants in the morning to ensure that they dry completely throughout the day, as well as because air plants utilize the evening to breathe carbon dioxide and will be unable to do so if they are wet in the evenings.
This is known as CAM, and you can learn more about it in our page on how air plants breathe. You can check on them before going to bed and put them back in their terrariums or displays if you expose them to some indirect sunlight.
These are the most frequently asked questions about watering air plants. Did we respond to your question? If you’re not sure, just ask! Are you looking for more information on how to care for air plants? Visit our Air Plant Care page for more information.