It is preferable to soak your air plants in a bowl of water for 20 to an hour once per week to 10 days. Totally submerge the plant. Even though they are constantly wet in nature, if your plant is in bloom, you might want to keep the bud above the water to avoid disturbing it.
How much time should be spent soaking an air plant?
A magnificent and distinctive addition to any collection of indoor plants are air plants! Air plants can be mounted, hanged, perched, or otherwise creatively displayed for a fascinating visual twist because they don’t need to be potted in soil. For those who are unfamiliar with air plant care, it can be confusing and even frustrating. They differ greatly from the majority of typical houseplants, after all. I’ll admit that over the years, we’ve also killed a few. However, if you have a better understanding of how to care for air plants, you might find that they are less demanding to keep alive than some of your other leafy companions.
Learn how to care for air plants, including advice on watering, lighting, ventilation, and fertilizing, by reading on. One significant (perhaps obvious) hint: Despite their name, they require more than just oxygen to survive. Let’s discuss some typical air plant care errors, factors to take into account for mounted or terrarium air plants, and the end objective: how to not kill your air plants. With these care suggestions for air plants, you may perhaps make your new friends’ lives the best they can be.
What Are Air Plants?
The genus Tillandsias, sometimes referred to as air plants, contains more than 600 different species of epiphytes (plants that don’t require soil to develop). They truly belong to the Bromeliad family, which also includes Spanish moss and orchids, both of which live without soil.
There is no functioning root system in air plants. These perennial, evergreen plants thrive by absorbing moisture and nutrients from the air around them. The one and only function of the tiny, hair-like roots that they do occasionally produce is to cling to a host plant or building. They do not hurt or consume energy from the host, hence they are not parasitic.
Tillandsias are indigenous to Central and South America, Mexico, the southern United States, and the mountains, deserts, and woods of those regions. They simply flourish when they are attached to trees, rocks, or crevices between branches in their natural habitat! Even though Tillandsias can be grown outdoors in extremely warm areas (or in a sheltered greenhouse), most people prefer to maintain them as houseplants.
The proper amount of light, water, and air movement are the three most crucial components of air plant maintenance. Air plants may thrive in almost any home if you can get these three elements just right (which will vary slightly depending on your environment). Although air plants can tolerate a wide range of temperatures, they cannot tolerate cold temperatures. Although they may survive in temperatures as low as 45 degrees, air plants prefer a temperature range of 55 to 90 degrees.
How much light do air plants need?
Bright indirect light is preferred by air plants. In other words, unless the windowsill receives filtered light or perhaps only soft morning sun, avoid keeping them directly in the windowsill. It’s common for air plants to become a little “fried in the sun, particularly if the light is reflected through glass or a terrarium. On the other side, low light will not make them happy. We keep air plants in the rooms with the most natural light in our home.
The short answer is that grow lights can be used to either augment or replace other sources of light for air plants. But take note of what I said: “grow lamps They must therefore be full-spectrum fluorescent or LED lights that are designed specifically for plant growth. The type of light that air plants require to photosynthesize is not produced by ordinary incandescent bulbs.
Keep the air plants no more than three feet away from the source of light. Plan to keep artificial light on for roughly 12 hours each day if that is the only source of light they use. In that situation, using a light timer might be beneficial.
You may water your air plant in one of two ways: by misting it or by soaking it. In a moment, we’ll discuss how much and how frequently. Your air plants will be most healthy if you provide them with non-chlorinated water, regardless of the watering technique you choose. Use pond or collected rainwater as an example, or at the very least pass tap water through a simple charcoal filter to get the chlorine out of it.
Misting Air Plants
Some people contend that misting won’t be enough to keep an air plant satisfied. I must disagree! For instance, I can’t totally submerge or otherwise soak some of our air plants because they are mounted on wreaths, boards, or cork, but they are still doing great! Instead, I spray them with a spray bottle until it starts to leak heavily. Spray from all directions, covering as much of the plant’s surface area as you can.
But remember that even if our environment isn’t very “humid,” it most certainly isn’t dry. Instead, air plants that thrive in more arid environments will benefit from longer soak times. Misting can also be used in conjunction with soaking, such as to give your air plants a small midweek drink during the warmer months in between weekend soaking treatments.
Simply fill a bowl, bucket, or other container with dechlorinated water to soak air plants. Only a few minutes should be given for the air plant to soak in the water. It only takes 5 to 10 minutes. Since air plants are prone to rotting if left in standing water for too long, it is actually simpler to harm them by overwatering than by under-watering. Frequently, I am in a rush and don’t have a large enough container to fit all of our air plants in to soak at once, so I just immerse each one for around 30 seconds instead of letting them soak for a longer period of time.
The body of some air plants is more densely bulbous than that of others. Since water is easily trapped inside the thick section, I’ve discovered that these ones are more prone to rotting than more open-structure or frilly air plants. So I typically don’t bathe the bulbous-body ones completely. Instead, I rapidly dip them in water or heavily spray them.
Air Drying Air Plants After Watering
Pay attention to this. Because it’s the most common mistake people make when taking care of air plants. Do not immediately place your air plant back in its container after watering it. As I have explained, air plants that have a “soggy bottom” can quickly rot and perish. So, after giving your air plants a quick shake and setting them upside-down (bottoms up!) on a towel or drying rack, whether you spritz or soak them, is advised. As a result, any extra water can drain from their body and crevices.
After being watered, air plants should be completely dry in 4 to 5 hours. If the air plants are left out to dry in a warm area with good air circulation, this will typically happen naturally. However, if you discover that your air plants are not drying quickly enough, a nearby fan can help hasten the process. Conversely, don’t dry them too quickly! Don’t necessarily direct the fan at the plants; instead, use it to improve airflow in the space. For a few hours, they should be damp in order to absorb the necessary moisture.
Depending on your environment, your regimen for watering air plants may change a little. As a general guideline, water air plants once a week on average—sometimes more, occasionally less. Water the air plant at least once every week if the air in your home is warm and dry. Watering twice weekly may be essential in extremely hot and dry weather (or in extremely arid regions). However, if you reside in a humid environment, you may probably get away with watering only every other week.
We water our air plants every two weeks eighty percent of the time due to our cool summers and coastal influences, changing to more regularly during sporadic hot weather or exceptionally dry conditions. Also consider alterations to the air or climate within your house brought on by factors other than the weather. A forced air heating system could be more drying in the winter, for instance. On our fireplace mantle, we have some air plants. We water those few more frequently in the winter than in the summer since they dry out more rapidly while the fireplace is on.
How can you determine whether you’re giving enough water or perhaps too much? Although it may be challenging to distinguish, there are differences between the symptoms of underwatering and overwatering air plants.
The body of the air plant will become squishy, rotting, and most likely discolored when it is overwatered. From the center, the leaves will start to fall. This might be brought on by overwatering, but it’s more likely the result of the air plant’s inability to completely dry up after watering.
An air plant submerged in water will grow more crispy and brittle. The leaves could develop dark, dried tips and further curl.
Can you soak air plants overnight?
Yes. Your plant is clearly showing indications of dehydration. Your plant is dehydrated if the leaves seem lighter in color or feel softer. You can give your air plant a water soak overnight if it appears to be parched or dehydrated to bring it back to life.
Can you water air plants with tap water?
Tap water is suitable for air plants, but be sure the tap water in your location is of a high standard. The majority of the time, tap water lacks crucial minerals and contains contaminants.
Use water from a well, pond, spring, or lake wherever possible. However, rainfall would be the ideal type to employ.
How do you water glued air plants?
Hold the plant under a gentle stream of water or submerge it in water for several minutes while keeping the surface of the air plant mounting dry. After watering, turn the plant upside down until all the water that was trapped in it has been released, and then set it on its side to dry.
Why soak air plants, exactly?
Because tillandsia grow in the air without soil, they are more commonly referred to as “air plants.” The belief that Tillandsia are air-only organisms is one of the most widespread misconceptions about them. However, what it really means is that they must consistently absorb moisture through their leaves. This is either the result of frequent soaking or extremely high humidity (like in a greenhouse).
They have incredibly cool-looking spiky tendrils, and since they don’t require soil to survive, there are countless inventive ways to show them, such as by placing them inside seashells or terrariums. They can also be used to create jewelry! The most frequent issues individuals have with air plants are brought on by improper watering; otherwise, they are hardy and simple to care for.
Since we often keep Tillandsia inside, where the air is significantly less humid than it is in the wild, we must soak them in water to rehydrate them. However, it must be carried out correctly or the air plant may decay.
Which air plants are safe to soak in water?
Most air plants with plenty of trichomes (xeric plants) should be often misted or soaked, whereas mesic plants, which have bright green leaves and less trichomes, prefer to be drenched only once a week. In our blog post Mesic Vs Xeric Air Plants, we go into further detail regarding the differences between Xeric and Mesic plants. However, there is one exception to this rule: air plants with bulbous bases, even those with bright green, smooth leaves, should frequently not be wet for extended periods of time as well. Because of water buildup in their bulbous bases, plants are susceptible to internal rot.
Instead of being wet, Xerographica air plants should be sprayed or submerged. These plants, which are xeric in nature, are indigenous to arid areas. These plants can survive more sun and less water. A xerographica should be submerged in a basin or pail of water, then gently shaken to let the water drip off the leaves. To prevent water from getting stuck in the leaves, let the item dry upside-down.
The Tillandsia tectorum is an air plant that you shouldn’t wet because it has a lot of fuzzy leaves. The tectorum’s large trichomes on its leaves aid in absorbing moisture from the surrounding atmosphere. These plants have evolved to survive without much precipitation and are naturally found in arid areas of Ecuador and Peru. Depending on how hot and dry it is where you live, we advise spraying these guys every other week or so. They also favor open air and strong light.
The distinctive feature of bulbous air plants is that they have what are known as “pseudobulbs.” In the natural, ant colonies construct their nests inside of these hollow onion-shaped bulbs, which are essentially hollow themselves. When watering these plants, especially when soaking them, exercise caution. These so-called pseudobulbs are susceptible to water intrusion, which can cause the plant to rot from the inside out. You can either submerge them in water and shake off the extra afterward, or you can hold them under running water while avoiding their bases. The T. caput medusae, T. bulbosa, T. pruinosa, T. pseudobaileyi, T. butzii, and T. seleriana plants are included in this group.
Another reason not to soak T. pruinosa and T. seleriana is that they both have a lot of trichomes. They could decay from soaking because of too much water.
You shouldn’t immerse air plants with delicate leaves like T. fuchsii v gracilis and T. andreana. These plants benefit more from light misting or rapid dunks. You may need to spritz these plants as frequently as every couple of days to make sure they are receiving enough water because of their thin, wispy leaves, which can cause them to dry out more quickly between waterings.
The Tillandsia magnusiana should be misted or dipped rather than soaked because it has a lot of trichomes. These plants’ form and trichome content can make them more prone to decay.
When watering air plants that are in bloom, exercise caution to avoid getting the blossom itself wet. While it would be acceptable to soak the plant’s bottom leaves, we frequently advise pouring water over them or immersing them to avoid wetting the blossom. A bloom that has been moist for a long time may develop rot, which may eventually spread to the leaves and kill the plant.