The leaves of a healthy air plant should be green to gray in color. The plant should stay intact when you lift it up. In other words, leaves should not fall from a healthy air plant.
There are various methods for reviving a plant. Here are the steps I take to restore the health of my air plants.
Give the Air Plant an Overnight Soak
When I’m trying to revive an air plant, the first thing I do is water it. Remember that just because air plants don’t need soil doesn’t imply they don’t need water. Water is vital to air plants, just as it is to all other living things!
Because air plants lack a root system, they must absorb moisture and that all-important water through their leaves rather than through their roots. I’ve heard too many times from garden centers that spritzing air plants with water a few times a week is a good idea. This, in my opinion, is insufficient water and will leave the plant thirsty. Unfortunately, if this continues for long enough, the air plant will die!
How Long Should I Soak my Air Plant?
I give my air plants an hour-long bath to ensure that they get enough water. I do this weekly throughout the summer and every three weeks or so during the winter. Because I live in the rainforest, I prefer to collect rainwater. However, you can also use tap water! To allow the chlorine to evaporate, simply leave the water out for 24 hours.
After that, just remove the air plant from its container and place it in a bowl of water. The bowl should be large enough for the plant to completely submerge. Leave it in the bath for about an hour before removing it. To make sure the water isn’t accumulating in your air plant’s leaves, gently shake it upside down. After that, return the plant to its original location. It’s that simple!
Make Sure Your Air Plant has Air!
Although it may seem self-evident, your air plant requires oxygen to survive. There are a lot of pictures moving around of air plants in a sealed container that make me laugh Because the plant can’t thrive in that kind of environment!
The solution is simple: keep your adorable jar terrarium, but leave the lid cracked or open to allow air to move freely.
Remove Dead Leaves
Remove any dead leaves from a sick air plant by gently tugging at them and seeing whether they fall off. They’re dead if they’re easy to remove. If the entire plant falls apart as a result of this, you’ve got a dead air plant that has regrettably died.
If only a few leaves fall off and the internal leaves are still green and healthy, your air plant will survive with appropriate care!
Look at the Tips of Your Air Plant
If your air plant’s tips are going brown, use rainfall or unchlorinated water as indicated above. If your plants are becoming brown despite not receiving chlorine, they may not be getting enough water.
After an overnight bath, make sure you’re bathing them more frequently.
What if my Air Plant Falls Apart?
You’ve got a dead air plant on your hands if your green air plant starts to fall apart. This most likely happened because you sat in standing water for too long, or you didn’t shake it off correctly after bathing.
Reread the section about watering, and you’ll have a much easier time with the next one!
Can you bring an air plant back to life?
How can I revive my air plant is a common concern that most people have at some point during their tillandsia growing adventure. The first step in revitalizing any air plant is to figure out what’s causing the problem. Then you can take the necessary steps to address the issue that is causing your air plant to die.
It’s possible that your air plant will turn quite white or gray at times. While a covering of white or gray hair or trichromes on your air plants is typical in most situations, a naturally green air plant that is going excessively white or gray could be an early symptom of your air plant drying.
The good news is that if your air plant becomes very white or gray, it is not dying. When the air plant lacks water, the trichromes simply become more apparent, causing the plant to appear paler than usual.
A dry air plant can be revived by immersing it in water for 5-8 hours. After the soak, shake off any excess water and allow your air plant to dry within 4 hours of watering. Rep the long soaking every 2-3 days until the plant no longer seems to be dry.
If your air plant is drying up again after being rejuvenated with a series of extended soakings, check the light, temperature, and humidity levels of the surrounding environment.
To assist your air plant maintain moisture, keep it away from direct or very bright indirect light. Air plants enjoy temperatures between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If you expose your air plant to severely cold or hot temperatures, it may be difficult to revive it. Extreme temperatures can dehydrate the air plant to the point where it can no longer thrive.
Root rot is usually indicated by brown or black leaves on the air plant. When air plants are not thoroughly dried out after watering, they might get root rot. When the air plant’s leaves are persistently damp, fungal infections can develop, causing lasting damage to the plant’s cells. The air plant would eventually turn brown or black as a result of these dead cells.
You may resurrect your air plant by gently plucking the brown or black leaves as soon as you notice them to prevent the infection from spreading. To avoid root rot, keep the air plant in a location with sufficient air circulation and allow it to dry quickly after each watering.
Severe occurrences of root rot that spread to the plant’s center can cause the air plant to die. If the root rot is severe enough that the plant begins to fall apart, you’ll need to start over with a new plant.
Growing air plants is a trial-and-error procedure that can take some time. While air plants might wither due to dryness, lack of light, or a lack of nutrients in the water, the most common cause of death is root rot, which is caused by the air plant not drying out correctly.
To avoid the risk of root rot in the future, try other approaches and situate your air plant somewhere with more air movement.
What do I do if my air plant is dying?
Why are my air plants dying so frequently? If your Tillandsia isn’t looking its best, especially if it’s shriveled or discolored, it’s likely that the plant is dehydrated. Although spritzing the plant is frequently recommended, it rarely provides enough moisture to keep it healthy and hydrated.
If this is the case, reviving a Tillandsia entails getting the plant back to a healthy, well-hydrated state. The best way to do this is to immerse the entire plant in lukewarm water in a bowl or bucket. To keep the plant from floating to the surface of the water, you may need to attach it to a hefty item.
Allow the bowl to soak for 12 hours in a warm location. Remove the plant from the bowl, place it on a layer of paper towels, and let it air dry before putting it back in its position.
If the plant remains dry and sickly, repeat the method, but just submerge the Tillandsia for around four hours this time. Shake the plant lightly upside-down to remove excess moisture from the leaves.
Should I cut off brown leaf tips?
Is it necessary to remove dead leaves? Yes. Remove brown and dead leaves as quickly as possible from your houseplants, but only if they’re more than 50% damaged. By removing these leaves, the remaining healthy foliage receives more nutrition and the plant’s beauty improves.
Should I soak my air plants?
We’ve discovered that soaking air plants in water works best for them here at the Air Plant Supply Co. It’s vital to keep in mind that air plants get all of their nourishment through their leaves rather than their roots. The roots are simply used to secure the air plant to a host tree, rock, or even the ground. Every week to ten days, soak your air plants in a bowl of water for 20 minutes to an hour. Completely submerge the plant. If your plant is blooming, you may want to maintain the bud above the water to avoid disturbing it, even though they are constantly wet in nature. To avoid shocking the plant, make sure the water is lukewarm or room temperature.
Why is my air plant drying out?
If your air plant died recently, it was most likely due to rot. It is the most common cause of death in Tillandsia plants. The main cause of this harmful problem is overwatering your plants. Air plants, like succulents, store water in their leaves, which can keep them alive for up to two weeks.
What does air plant rot look like?
Detecting Rot Rot or fungus may have infected the base of your air plant, which appears brown and feels extremely soft/mushy to the touch. A rotting air plant may frequently lose leaves at its base and may begin to fall apart, or the air plant’s center may come out.
What is the lifespan of an air plant?
Air plants, often known as tillandsias, are perennial plants. This indicates they survive for an average of more than two years (source), with a lifespan ranging from two to five years. However, the length of time they live depends on the type of air plant as well as the growing conditions.
How do I know if my air plant is dying?
The name “air plant” is a little deceiving. Members of the Tillandsia genus are named after the fact that they may grow without any soil at all. In reality, one of the most common misconceptions we encounter in air plant care is assuming that Tillandsia just require air to survive.
Air plants are epiphytic (meaning they grow on other plants without harming them) and emerge from the curves and branches of trees in their natural habitat of South and Central America’s forests, mountains, and deserts.
Air plants are among our favorites; they look great on their own and are included in many of our Plant Craft items, such as aeriums and mounts.
The following are the best methods for air plant care that we advocate. We’ll start with an overview of how to care for air plants in general, then move on to specific adaptations for aeriums, terrariums, and mounted Tillandsia.
Air plants require strong, indirect light to grow. Rooms with southern or eastern facing windows are ideal because they will be brilliantly lit by the sun for the majority of the day. North-facing windows also perform well, as long as the plant is close to the window and the window isn’t obscured by trees or a neighboring apartment complex. Western light arrives late in the day and can be extremely hot and strong. You don’t want to fry your air plant, so be careful!
As a general rule, the more light the air plant can tolerate, the higher the humidity in your environment. This implies that if you’re going to put your air plant somewhere where it’ll get a lot of light, you’ll need to spray it more frequently – twice a week, if not everyday. Because the humidity from your shower will take care of most plant misting, a sunny bathroom provides a great home for an air plant.
Many customers question if they can keep an air plant in an office or basement room with no natural light. Yes, however there are a few guidelines to follow in order to assure your plant’s success.
It’s essential to use full spectrum (fluorescent) lighting. Regular incandescent bulbs do not produce the quality of light required for photosynthesizing by these plants. Your Tillandsia should be no more than 3 feet from the source of light. Also, if you’re using fluorescent lighting, the plants will need at least 12 hours of light per day.
If you live in a basement or want an air plant in your office, we recommend purchasing a dedicated bulb for your plant (such as a Gro-Lux, Repta-Sun, or Vita-Lite) and placing it on a 12-hour timer to ensure that your plant receives all of the light it need.
Watering an air plant is the most difficult aspect of air plant upkeep. Some individuals swear by misting, while others swear by soaking, and still others combine the two in their air plant care routine.
Watering air plants is difficult in our experience because the plant’s needs vary drastically depending on the location in which it is situated. The first step in watering your air plant is to assess its surroundings. What kind of light does your plant get? At this time of year, what is the temperature in your home? Is the environment excessively dry (does your plant have access to a heater or fireplace?) Is it hot and humid?
After you’ve answered these questions, you can tailor the air plant watering schedule to your specific requirements. As a starting point, we recommend the following:
- Soak your air plant in room temperature tap water (or rain/pond water if you can find it) for 5-10 minutes every one to two weeks.
- After soaking, gently shake your plant to remove any extra water. In a light area, turn it upside down and place it on a towel. This is vital information! If you leave your air plants in too much water, they will quickly rot.
- The plant should be able to dry completely in no more than 3 hours after the soaking is finished. If your plant is left wet for an extended period of time, it may rot. To help things dry faster, try putting it in a brighter area with better air circulation.
- Mist your plant thoroughly once a week to ensure that the entire surface is wet (but not so much that there is water dripping down into the plant).
- The more water you need to water as the weather gets hotter and dryer (summer, early fall). The less water your air plant needs the cooler and more humid the air is (winter and spring). But keep in mind that heaters and fires dry out the air!
- Do all of your watering first thing in the morning. Evening soaking or misting interferes with the plants’ capacity to breathe overnight, resulting in a longer drying time.
The browning or crisping of your air plant’s leaf tips is a sign that it’s been under-watered. When air plants are under-watered, their inherent concave shape becomes more pronounced.
Unfortunately, it’s generally too late to salvage your air plant if it’s been over-watered. Your plant has likely succumbed to rot if the base of the plant turns dark or black, and leaves are dropping out or off from the center.
When it comes to temperature, air plants are relatively laid-back. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 50 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures should be around 10 degrees colder at night than they are during the day.
Once or twice a month, incorporate orchid or Bromeliad fertilizer into your watering routine to keep your air plant happy. Simply sprinkle a pinch into your water and carry on as usual. Fertilizing your air plant promotes blooming and reproduction (or pup more on this later)
Air plants only flower once in their lives, did you know? These blossoms can last anywhere from a few days to a few months, depending on the species, and can come in a wide range of vibrant colors, including pink, red, and purple. Flowering is the highest point in an air plant’s life cycle, but it also signals the start of the plant’s old age: after flowering, the plant will die.
But don’t give up! Depending on the species, your air plant will reproduce by putting out 2-8 flowers just before, during, or after flowering “Puppies.” These tiny air plants will eventually grow into their own mother plants, despite their modest size. When the pups are about 1/3-1/2 the size of the mother plant, they can be securely separated. Take care not to pull them out too soon, since they are absorbing nutrients from the mother air plant!
Above: A brass mister is a stylish and classic Tillandsia Xerographica companion.
While larger air plants look great on a windowsill or tabletop, we prefer to incorporate their smaller siblings into our living art “Aeriums” are a type of terrarium that is solely dedicated to air plants! Here’s everything you need to know about air plant care in glass.
- Simply take your plant from the aerium, terrarium, or glass to mist/soak it, then allow it to dry before putting it in the glass, as directed above.
- Keep in mind that maintaining your air plant in glass will produce a microclimate in which the glass vessels will be more humid and hot than the surrounding space.
- Avoid placing glass vessels too close to a window. The sun’s beams are amplified through glass. You don’t want your plant to cook!
- You won’t be able to soak your plant because it won’t come out of the glass, so you’ll have to rely only on misting. This is perfectly OK.
- Smaller glass means less air circulation, which means longer drying time for the plant and less misting.
- Larger glass = more air circulation = faster plant drying time = more misting.
- When misting your air plant, make sure to mist around it rather than directly into it. You don’t want to overwater it; instead, you want to keep it moist.
- We recommend starting with weekly misting and adjusting as needed, depending on the vessel.
You won’t be able to wet your mounted air plant like you can with air plants in small glass pots. Mounted air plants, on the other hand, will require more regular misting than aeriums because they are not enclosed in a humid microclimate. Starting with twice weekly misting and adjusting as needed, depending on how long it takes your plant to dry in your location, we recommend starting with twice weekly misting.
If you follow these air plant care instructions, your Tillandsia should thrive in no time! Do you have any queries or tips regarding caring for air plants? Let us know in the comments!
Is it OK to hot glue air plants?
- Plant-safe adhesive (E6000): This type of glue is waterproof, making it excellent for mounting your air plant display if you want to immerse or wet it frequently. Apply adhesive at the base of your air plants, avoiding the leaves totally.
- Hot glue gun: Hot glue isn’t as good as the plant-safe glue above because it’s not waterproof and won’t last as long, but it’ll suffice in a pinch.
- Monofilament (fishing line): For tying air plants to a wreath, a piece of driftwood, or another display base, fishing line is suitable. It blends into the background and can be readily concealed with moss or other natural components.
- Wire: As long as it’s not copper, wire is ideal for wrapping and connecting to display bases (toxic to air plants).