Few methods exist for watering air plants. But how can you take care of air plants that are adhered to displays, vases, or other ornaments? You can find advice on how to water air plants that are cemented in place and cannot be removed in this article.
If your air plant is bonded to a container and you want to remove it and remove the glue, remove it carefully and slowly. However, other people use waterproof adhesive, like E6000 craft glue.
The best technique to water air plants that are bonded together is to attempt to loosen the glue and remove the plant. The bonded air plant can also be submerged in water, but make sure it dries within 3 to 4 hours.
You can attempt to remove your air plant by lightly wetting the base and jiggling it; perhaps, this will cause the glue to break down over time. Most commonly used types of glue can be soaked in water and then dissolved. If not, you can carefully scrape the glue off with a knife or even tweezers.
Is glue bad for air plants?
The fact that air plants can be used in a variety of ways when it comes to decorating is one of the things we love about them. They are simple to attach to driftwood, wreaths, shells, and pretty much anything else you can think of! It’s good to have some greenery within your home, and since air plants don’t require soil, they make it a little bit simpler.
You’ve arrived to the right site if you’ve ever wondered how to install or attach air plants. We’ve prepared a list of some of the simplest mounting options for your favorite air plants below.
Wire:
When practical, we often advise using wire to secure. Just be careful not to use copper wire, which is harmful to air plants and can even cause their death.
If you are using wire, carefully “loop the wire through the bottommost leaves of your plant and wrap it around the base, then attach to your wreath or whatever item that you are attaching to.
We prefer this approach since it makes it simpler to move or water the plants if necessary than if you used adhesive.
Bok Tower Gardens has a stunning hanging display that you should see. Fishing line can be used to make lovely things both inside and outside.
angling line
This is a simple technique to fasten air plants to a wreath or piece of driftwood, and since it’s clear, no one will be able to see it. Simply follow the same procedure as with the wire; pass the fishing line through the plant’s leaves before tying a knot to attach it. If you hang air plants at the end of a long piece of line and fasten it to the ceiling or a shelf, you can also create some stylish floating arrangements using fishing wire.
Roots:
The primary function of air plants in the natural is to attach plants to trees; they do not use their roots to draw in nutrients or water. Our article, All About Air Plant Roots, has further information on air plant roots. If you have some free time, you can accomplish the same thing. Your plant may naturally cling to a piece of driftwood, a wreath, a tree, etc. (Be patient; this may take some time.)
If you’re feeling a little more impatient and don’t want to wait for the plant to anchor itself naturally, you can also use wire to affix plants to an object by wrapping the wire around the plant’s roots rather than looping it through its leaves.
Glue:
Because it makes it more difficult to water and care for your plants, we typically don’t advise using adhesive to attach air plants to something. But it is possible! When using adhesive, you can use a plant safe glue that is also waterproof, such E6000. When gluing, be particularly careful to avoid getting glue on any of the leaves; instead, dab the glue on the plant’s base and wait for it to dry before attaching.
Although it’s not our preferred or advised method, you can use hot glue if you need to attach something quickly. Hot glue won’t hold up as long as other anchoring methods and isn’t watertight.
Final suggestions:
- T. bulbosa belize, T. caput medusae, or T. pseudobaileyi are examples of plants with bulbous bases that should be mounted horizontally or upside down to assist prevent water from accumulating in their bases, which could cause them to rot.
- If you decide to mount your air plants with glue, remember to submerge or spray them rather than soak them. Since you can’t take the plant out to water it, soaking could cause it to decay against the place where it is anchored. Always try to shake away any extra water from your plant to reduce the likelihood of it rotting.
- Be sure to keep an eye on how much sunlight and moisture your wreath is receiving throughout the day if you are mounting and exhibiting air plants on a wreath that will hang outside on your front door. We advise bringing your wreath inside during the warmest part of the day if you see there is a lot of direct sun. For individuals who reside in colder climates, the same holds true. Since they are tropical plants, they do not like extremely low temperatures. Therefore, to prevent them from dying, if you’re using a wreath in the fall or winter, consider hanging it inside your door.
Are air plants safe from hot glue?
- Waterproof plant-safe adhesive (E6000) is the best choice for installation if you intend to routinely wet or plunge your air plant exhibit. Avoid using adhesive on the foliage and only apply it to the base of your air plants.
- Hot glue gun: While less ideal than the plant-safe glue mentioned above because it isn’t waterproof and won’t last as long, hot glue can still be used in a hurry.
- Fishing line is perfect for attaching air plants to a wreath, a piece of driftwood, or other display base. Monofilament (fishing line) It blends with the decoration and is readily hidden by moss or other botanical components.
- As long as it’s not copper, wire works well for wrapping and fastening to display bases (toxic to air plants).
How to Water an Air Plant
The most challenging aspect of caring for air plants is watering them. Some individuals use misting religiously, others immerse their air plants, while yet others utilize a mix of misting and soaking.
In our experience, watering air plants is challenging because the plant’s requirements differ significantly depending on the environment. Additionally, some species need particular care. Assessing your environment is the first step in watering your air plant. How much light is reaching your plant? What’s the temperature like inside your house right now? Is there a lot of dry air there (is your plant close to a heater or fireplace)? Is it also really humid?
Following your responses, you can modify the air plant watering schedule to meet your specific requirements. Here is what we suggest as a place to start:
- Every one to two weeks, give your air plant a 5- to 10-minute soak in room-temperature tap water (or, if you can get it, rainwater or pond water).
- Once your plant has soaked, gently shake off any extra water. It should be placed on a towel upside down in a well-lit area. This is very crucial. If extra water is allowed to stand, air plants will quickly decay.
- The plant should be able to dry completely in 3 hours once the soaking process is finished. More time than this could cause your plant to decay. Try putting it somewhere brighter with better airflow to encourage quicker drying.
- Mist your plant well once a week (instead of watering it). Make sure the entire surface is saturated (but not so much that there is water dripping down into the plant).
- You need to water more when the air is hotter and dryer (summer, early fall). Your air plant will require less water during the cooler and more humid seasons (winter and spring). Just be mindful of your plant because heaters and fires dry out the air.
- Water everything in the morning. Evening sopping or sprinkling interferes with the plants’ ability to breathe at night and prolongs the drying process.
Is My Air Plant Getting Enough Water?
The tops of your air plant’s leaves may turn brown or crispy if you’ve been neglecting to water it. When an air plant is under-watered, its leaves’ inherent concavity tends to become more pronounced.
Unfortunately, it’s frequently too late to save an overwatered air plant. Your plant has certainly succumbed to rot if the base of the plant turns dark or black and leaves are falling out or off from the center.
Regarding temperature, air plants are fairly tolerant. They thrive between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The ideal temperature difference between daytime and nighttime is roughly 10 degrees.
To maintain your air plant healthy, include orchid or specific air plant fertilizer in your watering routine once or twice a month. Simply sprinkle some in your water, then carry on as usual. Your air plant will blossom and propagate if you fertilize it (or pup — more on this later)
What happens if an air plant is soaked too long?
Most air plants with plenty of trichomes (xeric plants) should be often misted or soaked, whereas mesic plants, which have bright green leaves and less trichomes, prefer to be drenched only once a week. In our blog post Mesic Vs Xeric Air Plants, we go into further detail regarding the differences between Xeric and Mesic plants. However, there is one exception to this rule: air plants with bulbous bases, even those with bright green, smooth leaves, should frequently not be wet for extended periods of time as well. Because of water buildup in their bulbous bases, plants are susceptible to internal rot.
Instead of being wet, Xerographica air plants should be sprayed or submerged. These plants, which are xeric in nature, are indigenous to arid areas. These plants can survive more sun and less water. A xerographica should be submerged in a basin or pail of water, then gently shaken to let the water drip off the leaves. To prevent water from getting stuck in the leaves, let the item dry upside-down.
The Tillandsia tectorum is an air plant that you shouldn’t wet because it has a lot of fuzzy leaves. The tectorum’s large trichomes on its leaves aid in absorbing moisture from the surrounding atmosphere. These plants have evolved to survive without much precipitation and are naturally found in arid areas of Ecuador and Peru. Depending on how hot and dry it is where you live, we advise spraying these guys every other week or so. They also favor open air and strong light.
The distinctive feature of bulbous air plants is that they have what are known as “pseudobulbs.” In the natural, ant colonies construct their nests inside of these hollow onion-shaped bulbs, which are essentially hollow themselves. When watering these plants, especially when soaking them, exercise caution. These so-called pseudobulbs are susceptible to water intrusion, which can cause the plant to rot from the inside out. You can either submerge them in water and shake off the extra afterward, or you can hold them under running water while avoiding their bases. The T. caput medusae, T. bulbosa, T. pruinosa, T. pseudobaileyi, T. butzii, and T. seleriana plants are included in this group.
Another reason not to soak T. pruinosa and T. seleriana is that they both have a lot of trichomes. They could decay from soaking because of too much water.
You shouldn’t immerse air plants with delicate leaves like T. fuchsii v gracilis and T. andreana. These plants benefit more from light misting or rapid dunks. You may need to spritz these plants as frequently as every couple of days to make sure they are receiving enough water because of their thin, wispy leaves, which can cause them to dry out more quickly between waterings.
The Tillandsia magnusiana should be misted or dipped rather than soaked because it has a lot of trichomes. These plants’ form and trichome content can make them more prone to decay.
When watering air plants that are in bloom, exercise caution to avoid getting the blossom itself wet. While it would be acceptable to soak the plant’s bottom leaves, we frequently advise pouring water over them or immersing them to avoid wetting the blossom. A bloom that has been moist for a long time may develop rot, which may eventually spread to the leaves and kill the plant.
Do you soak air plants with their tops up?
It is best to provide air plants with water that is rich in minerals and nutrients because they obtain many of their nutrients directly from the water. The best water is rainwater, although spring water is a close second if you don’t have a convenient way to collect rainwater. Alternatively, you might utilize well, lake, or creek water. Never use filtered or distilled water. Less minerals and nutrients are present in distilled and filtered water. Many municipal water systems include fewer minerals and nutrients and more contaminants. If you are concerned about your pH level, air plants enjoy slightly acidic water. The ideal range for alkalinity is between 5.5 and 6.0. Most frequently, tap water from the city is higher than this range, making it unsuitable for air plants. Do not worry yourself too much about PH levels. Any good, pure water would do.
After watering your air plants, thoroughly drying them off is the second most crucial step. To ensure that your air plants completely dry, put them down on a dish towel on their side or upside down. For the larger species like Xerographica, Streptophylla, and Sparkler, this is especially crucial. Within two hours of their bath, they should be completely dry to the touch. Wait until your air plants are completely dry before putting them back in terrariums and vases. If you water your plants and then put them in an enclosure right away, your plant can get rot. Your air plants will be content and healthy if you follow these straightforward watering guidelines.