Tillandsias, often known as air plants, are a common and simple to grow plant. They’ve become incredibly popular and are frequently utilized in homes and workplaces. They naturally grow on another host, tree, or item and are considered an epiphyte, along with orchids and bromeliads, without taking nutrition from its host. They need water, light, and nutrients but no soil to flourish. Through microscopic capillaries on their leaves known as trichomes, air plants can absorb moisture and nutrients from the atmosphere. What a cool thing!
Despite being incredibly easy to maintain, air plants nevertheless require some care in order to flourish. Tillandsias can live for several years with proper care and give birth to “pups” (baby air plants) for added enjoyment. We’ve provided highly detailed care advice that is supposed to be helpful. We merely want to arm you with the knowledge you need to take excellent care of your tillandsias. Keep in mind that air plants are quite simple to maintain.
Light
- Any plant needs light to survive, but fortunately, air plants may survive with filter sunlight or even artificial light.
- Place your air plant between three and five feet from a window or close to a source of artificial light.
- An air plant should not receive too much sunshine, even inside. Choose a spot that is only somewhat shaded if you are growing outside. Few plants can withstand full-day sun.
Watering
- The most crucial thing to keep in mind is that each air plant will need a different amount of water depending on its variety, size, and environment of growth. These are recommendations, not unalterable laws.
- Watering air plants at least once a week is beneficial when growing them inside. The location’s humidity affects frequency. In comparison to a plant grown in a more humid environment, an air plant grown close to a heater will dry up considerably more quickly and require more frequent watering.
- Place your air plant face down in water, in a container or in your sink, and let it soak there for 10 to 20 minutes to hydrate it. Alternately, you might repeatedly submerge plants in water. To avoid rotting or damage, gently shake off extra water after soaking.
- Water should ideally be applied early in the day so that moisture can evaporate. After four hours, they should be dry enough to be put back in a container or on display.
- While spraying your tillandsia sometimes can be helpful, it is not always advised.
- Use a houseplant or orchid fertilizer with a low copper content if you want to feed your air plant because they are extremely sensitive to copper. Don’t fertilize your plant too frequently because it’s quite easy to overfeed it; diluting your fertilizer can help.
- You can soak your air plants in water (in a bowl or sink) for several hours or overnight if they ever appear “thirsty” or like they are having trouble. This frequently aids in reviving your tillandsia.
- Rainwater or pond water work best for watering tillandsia. Never use distilled or artificially softened water to water your plants.
- Dehydrated plants’ leaves are closed and coiled, while healthy air plants have wide, open leaves.
- An air plant’s flower or blossom should never be submerged because doing so can cause rotting.
Environment
- Your air plants will thrive in a bathroom or kitchen window, where the steam and moisture will make them extremely content.
- The growth and water requirements of air plants can be impacted by temperature. Between 10 and 32 degrees Celsius, air plants thrive (50F-90F). Since tillandsia are extremely sensitive to cold, freezing temperatures are one thing they do not enjoy.
- It makes sense that air plants need clean, healthy air to grow. They require considerable air movement after watering so that they can dry out in 4 hours.
- Although it is fairly common to place tillandsia in containers or terrariums and they have thrived there, it is not advised that they be completely enclosed in them. No air circulation means your plant won’t have any moisture or nutrients.
- Keep your plants away from heater and air conditioner vents so they don’t dry out too quickly and require additional watering.
Other Tips
- Do not ever submerge an air plant in soil. They don’t need soil because it will just make them decay.
- In addition to gaining new leaves, your air plant will also shed some. You can use scissors to clip off any brown or dead leaves for aesthetic purposes. Cut at a sharp angle so that the leaves still have a natural appearance to “conceal” this trimming.
- Although they are not necessary and just serve to anchor the plant to a host, roots may already be present or continue to grow. Depending on your preference, you can either leave the roots on or chop them off.
- You can use E3000 super glue (other glues can come loose over time/when wet or harm your plant) or string to secure your air plant in place on decorative “hosts.” With your air plant, stay away from pressure-treated wood and copper.
- As air plants develop, they can produce both blooms and pups, which are their young. Pups can either be removed when they are 1/3 the size of the mother plant or left on the mother plant to form a “clump” that hangs in a longer string.
How long should my air plant be soaked?
It is preferable to soak your air plants in a bowl of water for 20 to an hour once per week to 10 days. Totally submerge the plant. Even though they are constantly wet in nature, if your plant is in bloom, you might want to keep the bud above the water to avoid disturbing it.
How much time should be spent soaking an air plant?
A magnificent and distinctive addition to any collection of indoor plants are air plants! Air plants can be mounted, hanged, perched, or otherwise creatively displayed for a fascinating visual twist because they don’t need to be potted in soil. For those who are unfamiliar with air plant care, it can be confusing and even frustrating. They differ greatly from the majority of typical houseplants, after all. I’ll admit that over the years, we’ve also killed a few. However, if you have a better understanding of how to care for air plants, you might find that they are less demanding to keep alive than some of your other leafy companions.
Learn how to care for air plants, including advice on watering, lighting, ventilation, and fertilizing, by reading on. One significant (perhaps obvious) hint: Despite their name, they require more than just oxygen to survive. Let’s discuss some typical air plant care errors, factors to take into account for mounted or terrarium air plants, and the end objective: how to not kill your air plants. With these care suggestions for air plants, you may perhaps make your new friends’ lives the best they can be.
What Are Air Plants?
The genus Tillandsias, sometimes referred to as air plants, contains more than 600 different species of epiphytes (plants that don’t require soil to develop). They truly belong to the Bromeliad family, which also includes Spanish moss and orchids, both of which live without soil.
There is no functioning root system in air plants. These perennial, evergreen plants thrive by absorbing moisture and nutrients from the air around them. The one and only function of the tiny, hair-like roots that they do occasionally produce is to cling to a host plant or building. They do not hurt or consume energy from the host, hence they are not parasitic.
Tillandsias are indigenous to Central and South America, Mexico, the southern United States, and the mountains, deserts, and woods of those regions. They simply flourish when they are attached to trees, rocks, or crevices between branches in their natural habitat! Even though Tillandsias can be grown outdoors in extremely warm areas (or in a sheltered greenhouse), most people prefer to maintain them as houseplants.
The proper amount of light, water, and air movement are the three most crucial components of air plant maintenance. Air plants may thrive in almost any home if you can get these three elements just right (which will vary slightly depending on your environment). Although air plants can tolerate a wide range of temperatures, they cannot tolerate cold temperatures. Although they may survive in temperatures as low as 45 degrees, air plants prefer a temperature range of 55 to 90 degrees.
How much light do air plants need?
Bright indirect light is preferred by air plants. In other words, unless the windowsill receives filtered light or perhaps only soft morning sun, avoid keeping them directly in the windowsill. It’s common for air plants to become a little “fried in the sun, particularly if the light is reflected through glass or a terrarium. On the other side, low light will not make them happy. We keep air plants in the rooms with the most natural light in our home.
The short answer is that grow lights can be used to either augment or replace other sources of light for air plants. But take note of what I said: “grow lamps They must therefore be full-spectrum fluorescent or LED lights that are designed specifically for plant growth. The type of light that air plants require to photosynthesize is not produced by ordinary incandescent bulbs.
Keep the air plants no more than three feet away from the source of light. Plan to keep artificial light on for roughly 12 hours each day if that is the only source of light they use. In that situation, using a light timer might be beneficial.
You may water your air plant in one of two ways: by misting it or by soaking it. In a moment, we’ll discuss how much and how frequently. Your air plants will be most healthy if you provide them with non-chlorinated water, regardless of the watering technique you choose. Use pond or collected rainwater as an example, or at the very least pass tap water through a simple charcoal filter to get the chlorine out of it.
Misting Air Plants
Some people contend that misting won’t be enough to keep an air plant satisfied. I must disagree! For instance, I can’t totally submerge or otherwise soak some of our air plants because they are mounted on wreaths, boards, or cork, but they are still doing great! Instead, I spray them with a spray bottle until it starts to leak heavily. Spray from all directions, covering as much of the plant’s surface area as you can.
But remember that even if our environment isn’t very “humid,” it most certainly isn’t dry. Instead, air plants that thrive in more arid environments will benefit from longer soak times. Misting can also be used in conjunction with soaking, such as to give your air plants a small midweek drink during the warmer months in between weekend soaking treatments.
Simply fill a bowl, bucket, or other container with dechlorinated water to soak air plants. Only a few minutes should be given for the air plant to soak in the water. It only takes 5 to 10 minutes. Since air plants are prone to rotting if left in standing water for too long, it is actually simpler to harm them by overwatering than by under-watering. Frequently, I am in a rush and don’t have a large enough container to fit all of our air plants in to soak at once, so I just immerse each one for around 30 seconds instead of letting them soak for a longer period of time.
The body of some air plants is more densely bulbous than that of others. Since water is easily trapped inside the thick section, I’ve discovered that these ones are more prone to rotting than more open-structure or frilly air plants. So I typically don’t bathe the bulbous-body ones completely. Instead, I rapidly dip them in water or heavily spray them.
Air Drying Air Plants After Watering
Pay attention to this. Because it’s the most common mistake people make when taking care of air plants. Do not immediately place your air plant back in its container after watering it. As I have explained, air plants that have a “soggy bottom” can quickly rot and perish. So, after giving your air plants a quick shake and setting them upside-down (bottoms up!) on a towel or drying rack, whether you spritz or soak them, is advised. As a result, any extra water can drain from their body and crevices.
After being watered, air plants should be completely dry in 4 to 5 hours. If the air plants are left out to dry in a warm area with good air circulation, this will typically happen naturally. However, if you discover that your air plants are not drying quickly enough, a nearby fan can help hasten the process. Conversely, don’t dry them too quickly! Don’t necessarily direct the fan at the plants; instead, use it to improve airflow in the space. For a few hours, they should be damp in order to absorb the necessary moisture.
Depending on your environment, your regimen for watering air plants may change a little. As a general guideline, water air plants once a week on average—sometimes more, occasionally less. Water the air plant at least once every week if the air in your home is warm and dry. Watering twice weekly may be essential in extremely hot and dry weather (or in extremely arid regions). However, if you reside in a humid environment, you may probably get away with watering only every other week.
We water our air plants every two weeks eighty percent of the time due to our cool summers and coastal influences, changing to more regularly during sporadic hot weather or exceptionally dry conditions. Also consider alterations to the air or climate within your house brought on by factors other than the weather. A forced air heating system could be more drying in the winter, for instance. On our fireplace mantle, we have some air plants. We water those few more frequently in the winter than in the summer since they dry out more rapidly while the fireplace is on.
How can you determine whether you’re giving enough water or perhaps too much? Although it may be challenging to distinguish, there are differences between the symptoms of underwatering and overwatering air plants.
The body of the air plant will become squishy, rotting, and most likely discolored when it is overwatered. From the center, the leaves will start to fall. This might be brought on by overwatering, but it’s more likely the result of the air plant’s inability to completely dry up after watering.
An air plant submerged in water will grow more crispy and brittle. The leaves could develop dark, dried tips and further curl.
