Agaves are commonly planted in gardens in USDA hardiness zones 8b to 11 because of their drought tolerance and the visual attractiveness of their broad, spiky leaves and towering bloom stalks that can exceed 40 feet in height. Most of the time, the plants require little attention, although they do benefit from occasional trimming to improve their overall appearance. Agaves, on the other hand, dislike excessive pruning and can die back if healthy leaves are removed, so just remove spent flower stalks and any damaged or dead leaves that occur.
How do you prune a large agave plant?
Remove wasted flower stalks as close to the plant’s main body as feasible at their point of origin. To facilitate water flow, cut the stem at an angle with your pruning saw. Dispose of it in a green waste bin after breaking it up into manageable pieces.
Where do you cut agave?
Yes, but rooting will take a long time. The longer it takes for roots to form, the larger the diameter of the stem. Furthermore, the further the cut is made from the lowest leaves, the longer it will take for the plant to root. Just below the greenest portion of the tree’s trunk, make a cut. Allow for a week of air drying before planting in dry soil in a container. Wait until fresh top growth develops, suggesting that roots have begun to form, before watering.
It’s possible to do it now, but it won’t root until early spring. Allow it to grow for a few months in a container before planting in the garden. This will allow you to get the most out of your water and nutrients for the fastest root growth. Make sure the light levels are equivalent to where it will be placed in the future. You could even put the pot there, but only after the beheaded rosette has recovered.
The more I think about it, you could just bury it a little deeper to balance the stem height with the size of the rosette in your garden. This species’ long neck is accustomed to leaning toward the light. It’s difficult to know what the best line of action is, but I wouldn’t rush to behead it unless the length is due to poor light levels. This is known as etiolation, and the sole treatment is to shorten the stem length.
When should agave be pruned?
Prune after the seeds have matured and/or spread if you want to save them for propagation or food for wildlife. Agave blossoms and then dies. After blooming or at the first sign of agave weevils, the spikes should be cut off and the plants removed.
Can you cut agave trunk and replant?
Annie is the webmaster. Yes, the top can be taken off and replanted. Leave enough stem to keep it stable in the soil, but not more than 10cm.
Should you cut damaged leaves?
Is it necessary to remove dead leaves? Yes. Remove brown and dead leaves as quickly as possible from your houseplants, but only if they’re more than 50% damaged. By removing these leaves, the remaining healthy foliage receives more nutrition and the plant’s beauty improves.
Do agave plants need full sun?
Agaves are native to the desert, but they should not be exposed to direct sunlight. Many agaves thrive in the wild beside scrub oak or other larger plants that give shade during the warmest times of the day. Smaller and younger agaves should be given moderate shade, although larger and older agaves can tolerate several hours of intense sunlight. Agaves have a woody root structure that is very large and deep. This makes it easier for them to look for water in new places, but it also makes transplanting huge plants more challenging.
Can you plant an agave without roots?
As frequent readers know, I’m moving this week, and I’ve sworn to take my beloved ‘Whale’s Tongue’ agave (Agave ovatifolia) with me rather than leave it to the whims of fate and a new owner who might not appreciate its spiky qualities.
Agaves are normally unconcerned about being dug up and relocated. The larger the plant, the heavier it is and the more difficult it is to move. There’s a potential that the move will cause the plant to bloom as a result of the stress. This doesn’t happen very often, and when it does, it’s usually with older plants. Because Agave ovatifolia was first formally identified as a species in 2002 and commercially available only a few years later, I’m going to guess you don’t have a fully mature plant, despite its size.
The simplest solution is to dig it up and replant it in its new spot straight away, but that is probably not an option for you. You can wrap burlap around it like a tree if you can dig around it and get it out of the ground with the roots remaining in a ball of dirt. Because agaves’ roots are usually very long and not particularly dense, the dirt will most likely slip off, leaving you with a mostly bare root plant. That’s fine; agaves aren’t fussy about being bare-rooted. Trim the roots down to roughly a foot from the plant’s base and remove any dead leaves if this happens. Agaves are usually fairly easy to re-root. All you have to do now is pot it until you’re ready to relocate it and replant it which is probably easier said than done. I’d try to fit it into a 24-inch shallow (18-inch-deep) pot. You can safely remove a couple of the plant’s healthy lower leaves to get soil into the pot. Keep in mind that I’ll be impressed if you can achieve all of this without letting the plant take any of your blood.
I got a shallow, plastic tub supposed to be used as a pond liner for $12 at Lowe’s. It appeared to be an appropriate temporary containment for the large, blue whale, with a dozen holes made in the bottom. When I placed it next to the agave, though, it shriveled dramatically. Is there any way it could fit in there? But, oh well. Keep going!
To get a shovel beneath the plant, start by trimming off the lower leaves. Without having to come too near, my long-handled pruners performed a wonderful job of slicing through the luscious, fibrous leaves.
Some of the leaf fibers, however, were uncuttable and required cutting with a handsaw while leaning very close. I moved slowly and deliberately, trying to keep track of all the spines in the area around my face and neck.
I didn’t take a photograph of the next level since I was physically unable to do so. I dug all around the plant’s base, hoping to find a good-sized root ball. I tried levering the plant up with the shovel once I’d dug deep enough to get under and cut the main roots. There’s no way. The agave appeared to be as heavy as a whale and refused to budge.
Sweat was dripping down the inside of my goggles, I was cleaning my sweaty face with gloves soaked with agave juice from chopped leaves, and my face was immediately stinging and itching like crazy. As I hurried inside to obtain a damp towel and wipe my face with soap and water, a few choice remarks escaped my lips. Okay, there’s no harm done. Take a clean towel outside to mop up the puddle I’m about to become in another 10 minutes.
I excavated a narrower circumference around the agave and attempted to re-lever it. It swayed. I dug some more and levered again, feeling encouraged. It began to raise on one side, then the other. Success! However, how do you take it up and place it in the plastic tub?
The issue about agaves is that they don’t come with handles, which is obviously obvious to everyone else but wasn’t to me. You can’t bend in to lift the root ball without risking a thousand-point death penalty. Because the bottom leaves are coated with thorns, you can’t grab them to pull them, and they’re also quite delicate, snapping like a Saltine cracker if you apply any pressure. Because they’re so dense and heavy, you can’t pick them up with your shovel. I couldn’t simply ignore the mess until my spouse returned home to assist. What if a potential buyer contacted right now to schedule a showing? I sat and pondered the hauling experiences of my fellow garden bloggers, and one in particular came to mind.
I decided that sliding it would be simpler if it was in the tub, so I pushed up with the rope on one side, then the other, wedging the tub more under the agave with each pass. I was poked in the knee a couple times, but no blood was lost!
It’s not over yet! I needed to put the potted agave on a wheeled dolly now. I’ll leave the intricacies of levering, lifting, and avoiding unpleasant spikes in the face to you. I eventually triumphed, and the agave is now happily relaxing in the back yard, waiting for the next big thing. I just hope I got enough of its roots to save it.
Update: If you’re wondering if the agave grew back, the answer is yes. Continue reading to learn about Moby’s later exploits and final natural death and resurrection! (Yes, I’ve given this agave a name and a special place in my heart.)
How do agave plants multiply?
Cutting young plants from the mother plant is the simplest way to multiply Agave plants. Make a horizontal cut about 3 cm beneath the beginning of the lowest leaf with a sharp knive. Only cut plants that have matured into a multi-leaved plant. Allow two weeks for the cutting to root before placing it in dry soil.
Multiply Agave by seed
Agave seed germination is not difficult. Agave flowers between the ages of 7 and 25 years, depending on the species (if plant development was optimal). It may take many years for the plant to flower if it does not flower within this time frame. For a reason, agave plants are frequently referred to as “Century Plants.” Fruit will appear after flowering. The fruits take around nine months to develop and mature. This interval could be shorter in nature, where it is normally warmer. Fruit will occasionally form without pollination. The empty seeds in these fruits, on the other hand, are not fertile and will not germinate. After pollination, harvest the fruits right before they fall from the plant or when they begin to look dry. The optimal time to sow and germinate Agave seeds is the year after harvest. Bulbills (new plants) grow on old flowering stems the most of the time. As we’ll see later in this Agave post, they’re easy to cut off and root.
In practice, agave seed is purchased in the winter and planted in the early spring. June is the ideal month for growing seeds (in Europe). Agave seed can be sown and sprouted with the heat and light of the sun during this month. You could sow earlier in the year, but you’d need artificial light and heat to do it. Over time, seeds will lose their viability. I’ve had good luck growing Agave seedlings using the following mix: 25% crushed lava rocks or clay granulate, 50% ordinary potting soil, 25% coarse sand, 25% crushed lava rocks or clay granulate Place this soil mix in a container or seedtray and smooth off the surface. Do not use your hand or anything else to press the earth. For proper water drainage and air circulation, keep the structure open. Sow the seeds at a distance of 0.5-1 cm apart and cover with a layer of 3-5 mm fine grit or coarse sand (particle diameter not larger than 4 mm). Keep the seeds damp but not soaked until they germinate. After about a week, the first seeds should germinate. The remaining seeds will germinate during the next few weeks. Increase ventilation after germination. From May through August, provide ample light while also providing shade against direct sunlight. It is uncommon to obtain a 100% germination rate. Agave species have different germination rates. In most cases, rates of 50% to 90% are achieved. Desinfectants are not required during seed germination. Use the right germination medium and pay close attention to the temperature and watering schedule. The soil is kept somewhat moist for the first month following germination of the Agave plants, and night temperatures may not go below 10 degrees Celsius for the first three months, while day temperatures (produced by sunshine) may reach up to 35 degrees Celsius without difficulty. The water regime must be changed around 5 weeks following germination. Allow the soil to dry between waterings rather than keeping the seedlings constantly moist. Once a week, water the plants. If the soil is still wet, don’t water it.
Soaking or watering can be done from the top or from below. Begin feeding less water at the end of September, once every 14 days. In October, we begin to prepare the plants for the winter, when they will receive almost little water. When maintained dry, the American Agave species may withstand winter temperatures of a few degrees Celsius above freezing. If the roots of some species, such as Agave parryi and parryi variants, are kept entirely dry, they may withstand temperatures well below freezing. During the winter, agave species belonging to places with higher night temperatures, such as the Caribbean’s coastal regions, must be kept at a minimum temperature of 10 degrees Celsius. If you opt to keep your seedlings warm (room temperature) during the winter, water them carefully every three weeks. Increase the watering frequency to once every two weeks from the end of March, depending on the quantity of sun hours. Water can also be given in greater quantities, but only when the soil is entirely dry.
Multiply Agave by bulbils
Bulbils are a third way for propagating Agave plants. These are little plants that grow on the stalks after the flowers have faded. This is a simple procedure. Bulbils are Agave plants in their entirety, but they lack roots or have extremely small roots. After planting these bulbils, be very careful with watering, especially in the first few months. In their search for water and nutrition, bulbils must form roots and are particularly vulnerable to rot during this month.
Multiply Agave through underground shoots
The following is a new and highly intriguing way of propagation: Shoots have traveled 5 to 40 cm underground before reaching the surface. These shoots could be used to generate 1-7 plants! The author experimented with a yellow variety of Agave Americana â medio-pictaâTM, a highly sought-after species, in March 2005. The end outcome was fantastic. The stalks were sliced into many parts. Each piece must have at least one sleeping eye. The eye is compelled to begin developing after potting. After roughly a year, the developing plants reach a diameter of around 7 cm. The most crucial thing is that they all maintain the mother plant’s color scheme.
Agave propagation by cloning
Cloning is another way to propagate Agave. Professional growers of a variety of plant species employ this strategy. This strategy is also highly useful for Agave species for which no seeds or cuttings are available.
Agave propagation by damaging
Damage the mother plant as a last way of Agave propagation! This can be accomplished in a variety of ways.
Make small cuts in the root’s base with a razor-sharp knive. As a result of the cuttings, some mother plants will produce baby plants. The point of growth can be taken out of the Agave’s core in some older plants. It is possible to do so with the majority of Agave types. As a result, the plant may produce new plants from the leaf axil. In a test using Agave titanota, this resulted in the growth of ten additional plants. Some species have a tendency to produce new plants as an extension from the mother plant’s side. When the growing tip of a young Agave plant is slightly clipped, this can happen. It works in Agave filifera, for example. Unfortunately, while this species is abundant, this strategy is not very appealing. This method of propagation (which appears to be similar to cloning without the use of a lab) may also be successful in more sought-after Agave species.
How long does an agave plant live?
You never know when your heart will grow a big asparagus spear. After resting quietly in your yard for fifteen or twenty years, agave plants decide to do something unexpected. Agave plants are a common sight in Austin, Texas, where they’re positioned in front of your favorite mid-priced Mexican restaurant, stuck in a traffic island between a Bed Bath & Beyond and a Whataburger, and groomed into enormous pineapples in grandmother lawns. I had two of them in my yard and had no idea until one of them poked me in the leg.
The agave, as lovely as it is, has the ability to lull you into a state of apathy. One day, you walk past the agave, which is leaning against your mailbox like a drunk and pointing an asparagus spear the size of a telephone poll at the skies. With this asparagus thing, I’m not implying anything about European colonization of the Americas. It juts out of the heart of a languid agave like an asparagus spear, thick as a tree trunk, that could be served at a farm-to-table restaurant for gods. You say it out loud, “That’s strange.” And the guy in the neighbor’s driveway who lives in a camper van tells you, “Did you know that agaves and asparagus are related?”
The Asparagaceae family contains 200 species of Agave (genus Agave). Mexico, the southwestern United States, and the Caribbean are all home to this species. The most common type of agave is used to make tequila, mezcal, and agave nectar, among other things (a sweetener). The century plant, also known as the maguey agave, is most typically used as a landscape ornament. The leather-like leaves of the agave are distinguished by their spiky prickles. Agaves form a symmetrical rosette, with some remaining tight and spherical and others becoming floppy and awkward. An agave may grow up to 20 feet in circumference, around the size of a bouncy castle, given the correct conditions. Most are pleased to live in pots or to adorn the lawns of their grandmothers. Aside from that, agaves are a jumble of inconsistencies.
Number one: An agave is not a cactus.
Agaves are not cacti they’re a completely different type of plant from a different lineage. They’re sometimes mistaken for cacti because they’re thorny and thrive in the desert. Agaves have plump leaves that thin out and are somewhat spiky, similar to aloe which they are not. Some agave plants yield sap, which can be used to manufacture pulque, a fermented alcoholic beverage that predates tequila by millennia. Mayahuel, the Nahuatl deity of agave, used her 400 breasts to serve pulque. She had a brief relationship with Quetzalcoatl. Mayahuel was also not a cactus.
Number two: Agaves lie about their age.
Despite their reputation as century plants, most agaves only live for 15 to 30 years. At the garden center, opinions differ, but you might be able to extend the life of an agave by trimming its lower leaves and leaving only the leaves near the top, or the center of the rosette. Agaves, when freshly clipped, resemble over-sized store pineapples. It is up to the agave in question to decide whether or not this strategy will succeed. Once an agave has developed flower buds from its agave trunk, it has completed its transformation into a completely new plant, and all you can do now is assist the plant in getting its affairs in order. Whatever you do, you’re dealing with a plant that will outlast a couple of house cats. Take or give.
Number three: Agaves are not asparaguses.
Although the agave is a member of the asparagus family, it is not an asparagus. Agaves near death convert decades’ worth of energy into a massive asparagus death spear the size of a cell phone tower tree. The agave makes its final stand with a tremendous explosion of high-weirdness. The ordinary dinner-table asparagus, like the agave, belongs to the monocots (monocotyledons) plant group. They only have one seed leaf (cotyledon). This is a topic on which many individuals have a lot to say. Dave’s Garden provides my favorite definition:
The first leaf that develops from a seed is known as a cotyledon. Dicots have two, while monocots have only one. It’s a big thing. Some plants only have one leaf at the start of their existence, while others have two. There doesn’t seem to be enough of a difference to justify basing an entire plant classification system on. But, well, we have to start somewhere, right?
Orchids, most species of grass, palms, lilies, and the pineapple are all monocots. Long-distance relationships between Europe, Africa, and Asia are asparagus.
The only time an agave reproduces is just before it dies. Monocarpy is the process of only reproducing once blooming, setting seeds, and dying. An agave reserves all of its energy over the course of its existence, waiting for the appropriate moment to disperse its seeds and reproduce. It hunkers down, storing all of its vitality in its heart, weathering years of drought and periods of torrential rain and when it rains in the desert, it’s as if all of the sky devils decided to empty their above-ground pools at the same time. The agave then produces a gigantic, flowering asparagus spear out of its heart for its own purposes.
The agave holds a pollination sex party when the asparagus tree flowers. Bats, ants, hawkmoths, beetles, and doves that feed on nectar arrive to disperse agave pollen and seeds. The agave’s asparagus spear smashes to the ground when it dies, scattering seed babies to grow more agave plants. Or slam a Subaru Outback into a cul-de-sac in South Austin.
It’s a huge pain to get rid of a dead agave. Agaves feature thick root systems in addition to their thorny leaves. The blue-gray leaves will rot into an awkward mound of white and crumbly plant decomposition if left to rot, as if a swarm of bunniculas had an agave hoedown. Old Doritos bags appear to be attracted to dead agave mounds as well. Look for the discarded remnants in the nearest agave corpse if a teenager can find food in it. There’s a giant dead one wrapped around a cactus that’s about to die that’s also wrapped around a mailbox in my area. This same house is constantly putting out boxes of old karate trophies, as if they’re going to be stolen.
Bats and agaves are said to have co-evolved. Agave nectar is used by long-nosed bats, who are an endangered species. The pollen grains are rolled around by the bats. When they fly away to search more food, they carry additional pollen with them, allowing cross-fertilization to occur. Here’s how Bats Magazine explains it:
Mutualists describe a relationship in which both the plant and the bat gain from it. Scientists believe that this relationship evolved as a result of bats and plants coevolving, and that the dependency is so strong that the plants could not reproduce without the bats, who would starve to death if the plants were not around. This association appears to be quite sensitive to disruption.
Tequila manufacturing is one of these disturbances, as it puts long-nosed bat populations and agaves at jeopardy. Tequila is made from the heart of the agave azul, which must be harvested before it flowers. While the loss of so many century plants in my neighborhood is heartbreaking, it is also lovely since it is preventing a swarm of long-nosed bats from going hungry.
The web of life is twisted and has connections all over the place. According to our current understanding, no other planet has as much life as ours. Sure, there might be phosphorescent fish swimming beneath Europa’s freezing oceans or tardigrade-like organisms clinging to Ceres’ water-vapor eruption. If the agave’s asparagus death spear teaches us anything, it’s that life is fleeting and precious, that all living things have quiet links, and that it’s never too late to be weird.