When fully grown, semiminiature violets have a diameter of less than 8″ and miniature violets, less than 6″. The actual plant size is typically less with adequate maintenance. The same care is required as for other African violets. Use only pots no bigger than 2 1/2″. Though you can repot them, these plants are happy growing in the small pot we sell them in. They are supposed to be cultivated small, so the plant you receive, even when mature, will be small as well.
The AVSA registrar or the hybridizer’s descriptions are used. After the description are the AVSA registration numbers. As we can’t always send mature plants in full bloom, the photos that are displayed are of plants that we have grown and are an accurate representation of what a plant can look like when grown properly.
Do little African violets remain tiny?
Initially published in the “March 1987 issue of Empire Violet Magazine. Since then, many publications have reproduced it, including VioletsFun issue 4.
We are repeating the piece here, not because overgrown miniatures are a regular issue (although with many of today’s hybrids, it once might have been). We are publishing it again because it still offers some insightful cultural guidance that many people today could find useful.
How to stop some of these kinds from growing larger than necessary is a subject of discussion among producers of miniature and semiminiature violets. The proper size is determined as no larger than 6 in diameter for kinds classified as miniatures and no larger than 8 for semiminis. I shall just refer to both forms as “miniature moving forward This is not a major worry for individuals who have no interest in showing. In addition, the majority of current hybrids grow without difficulty within size restrictions. I believe that most skilled hybridizers err on the side of caution by overestimating the size of their varieties’ potential growth.
I have disproved my views regarding soils, watering, fertilizers, and other topics after speaking with a number of different growers and exhibitors. For any of them to serve as general answers, there just seem to be too many exceptions. I’ve used nearly every kind of soil, fertilizer, lighting, and watering technique imaginable throughout the past 20 or so years of growing. I’ve also had the opportunity to travel to other farmers’ facilities and see how other people raise their plants.
I’d like to put up the following hypothesis, albeit I’ll admit that it’s largely based on observation and not on rigorous science. I think that proper size necessitates giving the plants three things, in addition to miniatures, that are frequently absent in violet care. However, miniatures appear to be more negatively impacted than ordinary types. Because they need time and space—two of the grower’s most scarce resources—these three items are particularly in short supply.
Take the ensuing quick test if the scale of miniatures worries you. Honestly respond to each question. if you “If you don’t pass all three, you presumably have trouble getting some miniatures to grow to the right size. If you perform poorly on any one test, you can still grow your miniatures better.
The first test is to see if you can turn each plant on your shelf without letting any of its leaves touch those of another. If not, the environment is cluttered with the intention of raising tiny minis. We all want to grow more plants than we have room for, therefore I’ll wager that most gardeners will struggle with this.
Do any of the plants have leaves (or entire rows of leaves) that would need to be removed if they were shown today? If so, improper pruning is being done to the miniatures. Minis that have been properly pruned have no extra foliage at any moment.
Test #3: How many of the plants haven’t had their pots changed in the past six months? Anywhere near 25% of the collection indicates that repotting has been far too rarely to keep miniatures from getting too big. Once mature, the majority of miniature cultivars require repotting every 4-5 months.
I believe that relatively few people were able to pass all three exams, and that is the point being made. Because most of us find it challenging to supply the conditions necessary for their healthy growth, some kinds can be challenging to cultivate as truly little plants. I’ll go into greater detail about each.
Provide enough room for growth. Consider what transpires when the plants are huddled together. The petioles become lanky and feeble? Violets are more intelligent than we realize. The plant that can reach above the competing foliage and be nearest to the light can thrive in conditions of limited light and space. A small serving as a “Muscular beast is suitable for a mountainside but inappropriate for the neighborhood club performance. Plants with enough room do not require leaves to spread out in order to get more light (and air) than its neighbors. Shorter petioles and, to a lesser extent, smaller leaf blades are expected. I had to train myself over a long period of time to realize that it is preferable not to cultivate more plants than I can successfully care for. There is no guarantee that minis will endure overcrowding any better than larger kinds just because more of them can fit on a shelf. In reality, the general norm is that smaller growing minis require greater growing space.
routine pruning Another time-consuming chore that most people don’t perform as frequently as they should is pruning. Remember that despite its reduced size, a miniature plant can develop just as quickly as a regular variety. Many small types generate more leaves in a given amount of time than regular standard-size varieties (no science here, just an observation). However, leaf diameter is constrained, unlike a standard. The result is that pruning of older, extra foliage for miniatures is more necessary.
Control is the key to minis pruning properly. Is the plant in charge, or is it the plant’s grower? It’s important to promote the plant’s modest growth. If the plant continues to generate foliage without suffering any consequences, i.e. by eliminating an equivalent amount of foliage, it is in control of its size. More than merely removing the occasional yellowed leaf is involved in good trimming. Any extra foliage that wouldn’t be present if the plant were being displayed should be cut off. The less, the better is my general rule of thumb, and if in question, remove it. Keep in mind that keeping minis tiny is our goal, and that smaller plants generally have less foliage. In addition to controlling the amount of foliage, other measures also influence the foliage’s growth pattern, albeit to a lesser extent. More on this in a moment.
routine repotting To me, managing the plant’s size includes routine repotting. Some growers appear content to use three small pots to accommodate some larger semimini types. The plant must be grown large in such a pot for it to not seem horribly overpotted! This is an illustration of how the plant, not the grower, determines its size. Violets are amazingly adaptable, much like all other living things. Some of them will grow huge if given the chance. They learn to shrink if you don’t give them the chance to develop this way.
This is how I handle the semimini variety when it tries to expand a little bit past 8 in diameter. First, remove all but the four center leavesit immediately figures out who is in charge! Then, around two-thirds of the root ball should be removed before repotting the plant in a 2 1/4 or 1 1/2 pot. Repeat the procedure if it starts to expand as it did previously. Continue doing this until the plant reaches an appropriate size. Usually, it will sooner or later. More drastic pruning and more frequent repotting are typical with larger plants. This is not “bonsai” growing a violet; we are not “microminiaturizing the plant, as would be the case if we maintained the plant severely rootbound in a 1 thumb-pot. Simply training the plant to expand in a smaller area.
The plant’s size is lowered through persistent pruning and frequent repotting “reducing it to the barest amount of foliage. I’ve discovered that ultimately, the size of the leaf itself decreases, sometimes noticeably. In other words, if you were to compare a fully developed mini’s third row leaf to a properly grown mini’s third row leaf, the former leaf would be smaller. In addition to being shorter (from the neck to the base of the leaf blade), the petiole would also have a smaller leaf blade.
As always, smaller is preferable. Only when left unchecked will a plant grow out of control. Often, a little, well-grown, appealing miniature does not appear that way because the grower has made an effort to make it look that way “taught it to. Beautiful violet cultivation involves actively encouraging the plants’ growth rather than simply letting them do so. The plant’s behaviors during growth must be under the grower’s control.
How big may African violet miniatures grow?
From tiny violets to variants that trail, there are countless types and hybrids! Although some kinds feature variegation in both their leaves and blooms, the majority of their differences may be seen in the colors of their flowers, which range from white to purple.
Based on how wide they grow, African violets are traditionally categorized according to size:
- less than 8 inches across in miniature
- Typical: 816 inches wide
- Large: spanning more than 16 inches
- A potted African violet can make a cheery gift for a February birthday even though violets (Viola), which are unrelated to African violets, are one of the February birth flowers.
- The violet represents fidelity, loyalty, and devotion. More floral symbolism can be found here.
- African violets may be harmed by cyclamen mites. Since they are practically impossible to totally eradicate, it is advised to destroy the infected plant and isolate any neighboring plants.
Are smaller pots preferable for growing African violets?
- African violet plants won’t reach their full potential if they are potted in either a tiny or large pot.
- Growth could be slower, leaves could be smaller, and blossoms or buds could not form.
- The African violet plant will still thrive, but its growth pattern will be irregular.
(a) African violet kind should be considered when selecting pot size.
- Finding out what kind of African Violet plant you have is one way to choose the right pot for it.
- If you have a miniature/mini African Violet plant, the ideal pot side is between 1- 2 pots.
- Miniatures have a six-inch maximum diameter.
- The best pot size for semi-miniature (semi-mini) African Violet plants is between two and 2.5 pots.
- Semi-miniatures can have a maximum 8-inch diameter.
- The recommended pot size for an African violet plant is between three and four pots whether it is a regular or large plant.
- The maximum diameter for standards is 12 across.
(a) Choosing a pot size based on the African violet plant’s diameter
- The size of the pot should be 1/3 the size of the African violet plant.
- Therefore, the diameter of your African violet plant should be three times that of your pot.
- Your African violet plant, for instance, should be in a 1-pot if its diameter is 3. Your African violet plant has to be in a 2 pot if its diameter is 6. Your African violet plant needs a 2-3 pot if its diameter is eight inches. If your African violet has a 9-inch diameter, put it in a 3-pot. Your African violet plant needs to be in a pot with a diameter of 4, otherwise.
- The diameter is calculated by tracing the line from one leaf’s outer edge across the crown to the leaf’s opposite outer edge.
(c) Choosing a pot size depends on the size of the roots of your African violet plant:
- The size of the pot you choose for your African violet plant should be similar to the length and/or width of the plant’s roots or rootball, as a final option.
- The container should be just large enough to accommodate all the roots in a neat fit.
- Just enough room should be left around the roots so that dirt may be added to fill the pot.
- The roots shouldn’t protrude from the pot’s top or emerge from the drainage hole at the bottom once the soil has been added.
- If this occurs, pot up, or plant the plant in a pot that is one size larger.
- African violet plants require container sizes that increase by one at a time.
- For instance, if your African violet is currently in a 3 pot, pot it up in a 4 pot the following time.
- In contrast, if your African violet plant has a smaller root system and it is potted in a larger pot, the soil will hold onto too much water and the plant will have too much soil relative to its roots.
- Long-term exposure to this can cause crown rot and root rot in plants that are planted deeply in soil.
- You will notice roots emerging from the top of the soil and through the drainage holes if your container is too small for your African Violet plants.
- The inadequate soil will cause the roots to become “rootbound and compacted.
- Rootbound indicates when the roots have taken up all the space within the pot and when there is no space left, they start to circle around the existing roots and form a compact root ball.
- Your African violet plant may be deprived of hydration, nutrients, and air spaces as a result.
- The growth of the African violet will slow down, causing the older leaves to fall off or turn yellow/mushy, and the leaves to grow more slowly from the crown.
- This may result in a neck that is longer. To understand more about African Violet plants’ long necks, How Should I Bury and Re-Pot Bare Stems or Necks of an African Violet?
- The African Violet plant will stop blooming and developing buds, and the leaf stalks will also lengthen.
- Find out what size pot your African violet plant is currently in first.
- Select a pot that is 1 size larger than the one you already have.
- Remove your African violet’s existing pot with care. If the container is made of plastic, you can accomplish this by gently squeezing the sides to slightly dislodge the soil/roots.
- Then, tilt the pot, tap the base of the pot lightly with one hand, and carefully yank the plant out of the pot with the other hand while gripping the base of the stems.
- Do not remove the stems or force the plant out of the pot if it won’t do it on its own. The plant should easily come out of the pot if you gently squeeze the pot sides once more and tap the pot base a few times. This will loosen the dirt and roots.
- Examine the roots of the plant after removing it from the pot for any infestation or bugs. If everything appears to be in order, brush or shake off any old dirt.
- Avoid moving the root mass or the root ball.
- Place your African violet plant in the new pot after that.
- The plant should be placed in the pot such that the lip of the container is barely touched by the outer leaves.
- Crown rot might result from the plant sitting too deeply in the pot.
- Add a fresh layer of dirt to the pot to keep your African violet plant from growing too deeply inside it.
- This dirt will serve as the foundation for your African violet plant.
- Place your African violet plant in the pot after that; it should now be slightly above the rim and not too deep.
- Now that the roots and any empty spaces in the pot are covered, soil may be added to the container.
- The soil doesn’t require to be patted down. Don’t compact the dirt.
- Alternately, you might add coarse perlite to the pot’s base rather than dirt.
- The perlite layer at the bottom of your container can help your plant’s water drainage.
- The opposite will occur if the pot is too big for your African violet plant; the roots will become buried under all the extra soil.
- The plant will neglect to grow the top half of the plant (leaves/flowers) and instead concentrate on growing the bottom part of the plant as the roots continue to try to fill up the pot and expand (roots).
- Long-term, this will slow the growth of African violets above the soil, and they will flower more slowly.
- If the soil is constantly damp despite having adequate drainage at the bottom of the pot, it is another indication that the pot is too large.
- The African Violet roots will merely sit in the wet soil because there aren’t enough roots to absorb all this extra water, which can eventually cause root rot.
- First, gauge the size of the plant’s present pot for the African violet.
- Then choose a different pot by reducing the size by 1. Repot, for instance, in a pot that is 2 sizes smaller if your present pot size is 3.
- Since the diameter of a pot is how its size is expressed, 2 denotes a pot with a diameter of 2.
- Typically, a pot’s base and top measure the same. It’s acceptable if they are separated by a mere half inch.
- the identical procedures as those outlined in the preceding section (potting into a large size pot).
- The potting procedure is consistent. For further advice on repotting African Violet plants, see the article How Often To Change African Violet Potting Soil Mix & Why?
- On occasion, you might decide to drill the holes yourself in the container you use to pot African violets within your home.
- When performing this, keep in mind:
- four-inch pots
- 4 to 6 holes, 1/4 to 1/8 in diameter
- 3.5-inch pots
- 3 to 4 holes (diameter: 1/4)
- 2-3 holes (1/8 diameter) in 2-inch pots
- 1/8-inch pots with one hole.
- Hole should always be present underneath a pot. African violets must be planted in containers with drainage holes.
- African violet cultivators prefer pots with a shallow depth and a wide length.
- African Violets would do well in containers akin to azalea pots.
- can use a pan pot to create space for African Violet trailers to spread out horizontally.
- Measure the length or spread of the trailer plant to determine the pot size.
- Next, pick a pot that is 1/3 the size of its spread. So pick a 4 pot if your spread is 12. Choose a 3 pot if it’s a 9, and a 2 pot if it’s a 6 spread.