African violet leaf cutting propagation can occasionally be challenging. Among them is “Unlike in chimeras, where leaf cutting rarely results in plantlets that will blossom as intended (identical to the plant from which the leaf was taken). It can also be challenging to propagate other very genetically unstable kinds, such as the most exotic multicolored or fantasy-blossomed variations “true by removing leaves
Another option is to spread through suckers (shown elsewhere on this site). Another is to spread seeds via flower stems. Like the majority of gesneriads, African violets are fairly simple to propagate in a variety of methods. If done correctly, almost any plant part can be used in propagation. The process is as follows.
Step 1: Trim the plant’s open blossoms, leaving only the peduncles. Grow your plant as usual, but before it starts to fade, remove any open blossoms from the blossom stem (peduncle). Cut carefully above the following pedicle, but under the flower (joint from which another bloom or bud appears).
This accomplishes two goals. The stem is kept fresh first. The blossom stem won’t be as fresh to effectively root later if all blossoms are allowed to open and are retained until spent. Additionally, since we desire the stem of the blossom rather than the blossoms, we don’t want to discourage blossom creation as much as feasible.
Step 2: Cut off pedicels and buds that are above leaflets. Each flower stem will contain two leaves “leaflets that are present just below the lowest-level pedicels on either side of the stem (at the lowest junction). At this stage, the stem will begin to develop true leaves. Therefore, remove all of the growth that is immediately above this.
3. Trim the bloom stem just below the leaflets. Cut the stem of the blossom 1/4 below the leaflets, as you will need a small bit of it to root.
The original bloom stem is depicted at far left, immediately following its removal from the plant, and is then displayed with the cuts made in steps 2 and 3.
Several cut bloom stems are to the left, ready to be rooted. Each has one pair of leaflets that is around 1/4 length.
The bloom stems are rooted in step 5. A little pot should be filled with a mild, permeable rooting mix. Vermiculite and/or perlite should make up at least half of this. The mixture should be moist but not drenched with water.
Next, create a little “Make a small hole in the earth for each stem you plan to root in the container (shown at near right). The stems can be inserted more easily and without becoming damaged as a result.
then put a stem from each flower into the perforations (shown at far right). Put them in completely so that the little “leaflets are close to the earth. Make sure the stems are firmly embedded in the ground and aren’t loose or susceptible to being moved. If this is the case, they will root harder. If you are successful, the stem will take root below the soil’s surface and leaves (and a plantlet) will emerge from the stem at the soil’s surface “leaflets.
The finished pot of rooted blossom stems may be seen on the far left. Usually, we’ll pack 6–8 stems into a 2 1/4-pot.
About three months later, the pot of rooted bloom stems to the left is starting to develop tiny plantlets. These will be big enough to root individually in a few more months.
A pot of completely sprouted plantlets that are ready to be potted into individual pots is to the near right. These plantlets can now be potted in the same manner as if they had been grown from leaf cuttings.
Can you root African violets in water?
Saintpaulia spp., or African violets, are prized for their lovely flowers and varied forms. These characteristics make them perfect houseplants because they can grow and bloom in direct or strong artificial light. African violets can be grown vegetatively from cuttings by rooting them; if a leaf’s petiole, or leaf stem, is still intact, it can grow roots when planted in the right kind of rooting medium. In either water or soil, African violet leaf cuttings can successfully develop roots.
How are African violets started from cuttings?
African violets may be grown from leaves fairly readily. Even novice growers can easily grow more plants and increase their collection.
Step 1: Trim and remove the leaf. Take a new leaf off the plant you want to multiply. The ideal leaf to utilize is mature; nevertheless, avoid using an old, harsh leaf. Trim the leaf blade’s top with a razor or a sharp knife. Although this step is not required, it will speed up the growth of the leaf’s roots and plantlets once it has rooted and will prevent the leaf from expanding on its own.
2. Cut the leaf petiole.
View the image on the right. Cut the petiole (also known as the leaf stem) at a 45-degree angle with the cut side facing up, to a length of about 1/2. Cutting at an angle will promote the growth of additional roots and plantlets, and they will more likely show up in front of the rooted leaf as opposed to being tucked under or behind it.
Root the leaf cutting in step three.
View the image on the left. Your rooting medium should be poured into a tiny pot. This mixture ought to be extremely airy and permeable. One part Pro-Mix (a soil-free peat and perlite mix) and three parts coarse vermiculite make up our rooting mixture. Any combination, at the very least, is allowed (some growers use only vermiculite or mix with perlite). You should moisten the mixture (not too soggy, or the leaf will rot). Utilize a “swizzle stick” to create a small hole in the mixture. In this hole, insert the leaf petiole up to the base of the leaf blade (as shown), and compact the rooting mixture around it. If there is space, more than one leaf cutting may be rooted in a single pot. Put the pot in a transparent, covered container or plastic baggie after labeling it. After that, put this somewhere sunny and cool—avoid direct sunlight or places that are too hot as these could cause the leaf cutting to burn or decay.
Plantlets at 12 weeks in Stage 4. From the cut end of the rooted leaf’s petiole, one or more plantlets will start to form and rise above the dirt. The ones shown are ready to be divided and planted right away, but we often wait 4-5 months because that gives more plantlets time to develop from the cutting. Additionally, the plantlets will be slightly bigger, more manageable, and more likely to survive their transfer.
Separate the plantlets from the leaf cutting in step 5. View the image on the right. Plantlets can be detached from the “mother leaf” when they are big enough for you to handle them easily. Take the cutting out of its pot, grip a plantlet firmly, and carefully remove the plantlet away from the leaf cutting. If your rooting mixture is light and not too wet, you can probably do this without using a knife. If your plantlet is healthy, it will grow roots when it is potted, so don’t worry too much if it doesn’t have many (or even any).
Step 6: Get the plantlet’s pot ready. View the image on the left. Your typical soil mixture should be used to fill a small pot (2 or 2 1/4). Create a small hole using an old pencil that is deep enough to accommodate the plantlet that will be potted.
7. Plant the plantlet.
View the image on the right.
Place the plantlet carefully into the hole and firm the earth around it. Plantlets should be buried in the soil just deep enough to cover the entire naked central stem or “trunk,” but not so deeply that the tiny growing point in the middle of the plant is buried.
Eighth step: You’re done! Water the plant minimally and label it. You can immediately put larger plantlets among your other violets. Put the plantlet into a clear, covered container or plastic baggie if it is still very little and/or has few roots. This will provide it a little “terrarium-like environment and protect it as it grows. In a few weeks, remove it from this container.
How much time does it take an African violet in water to root?
3. Poke a hole in the plastic wrap using a wooden skewer or another object with a similar diameter. Gently poke the stem of the African violet leaf through the plastic, making that the leaf is erect and the stem end is submerged in water.
4. The leaf stem should be inserted into the water as soon as it has been pinched from the plant. Recut the stem before submerging if there is a pause of more than a minute. After being cut, the stem will close, therefore you need to keep it open so you can sip water.
5. To keep the water fresh, change it once every week. Use only warm to lukewarm water when doing this. Be careful not to disrupt or harm the leaves or roots that will eventually grow when changing the water.
6. After around two to four weeks, roots will grow at the bottom of the leaf. A strong, dense root system is what you want. At this time, add a minuscule drop of a liquid organic fertilizer.
7. A little new African violet leaf will appear near to the stem’s base a month or two after the roots appear. Your new plant is this. Eventually, the mother leaf will wilt and begin to die back. When this happens, gently remove it from the young plant.
8. Plant the young plant in a pot after you’ve waited until the new leaf is about 1/4 inch in size.
How Long Does it Take a Cutting to Root?
It takes a cutting of an African violet 3–4 weeks to develop new roots. You’ll start to notice fresh leaves about three to four weeks later. Repotting should be done when there are 2 to 3 new leaves emerging. The duration of this treatment can range from two to six months.
How Do You Collect Seeds From African Violets?
You must manually pollinate African violet flowers in order to extract the seeds from an African violet. After about a month, if you are successful, a seed pod will appear. After giving the pod two months to mature, carefully pry apart the pod to extract the seeds.
Are African Violets Easy to Grow From Seeds?
African violets are typically started from cuttings, although they can also be started from seed with relative ease. About the same amount of time is required. The seeds will probably need to be ordered because they can be challenging to gather on your own.
Propagation Temperature
Are you unsure about the ideal temperature for your brand-new, small African violets? The fact that African violets thrive in typical domestic settings contributes to their ease of maintenance. Maintain the temperature of these new plants between 65 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit at night and between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day.
Although mature African violets may tolerate the rare dip or spike in temperature, they prefer the same conditions as developing African violets. Avoid allowing the temperature to rise over 85 degrees or fall below 60 degrees since these extremes might slow or kill budding African violet plants.
Which is preferable, repotting African violets in soil or water?
While growing African Violets in soil avoids the need to plant them in soil, growing them in water is far more enjoyable since you can watch the roots and tiny plants develop up close. It is quite acceptable to inspect the plant to see if the roots have developed every 5 minutes. Don’t give up, though; the first symptoms of growth may not appear for some time. Even if you think the bottom end of the leaf looks a little strange, as long as the leaf appears healthy, you are on the correct route (almost like it would be decomposing a little).
Simply submerge your leaf (including petiole) in water after cutting it. Choose the proper container because the leaf shouldn’t actually come into contact with the water.
Room temperature should be reached by the water. Most of the time, tap water is fine, but you might choose filtered water if you think your tap water is mineral-heavy. Unless it gets murky, you won’t actually need to change the water too often. Refill as necessary, and after a few weeks, change the water.
Put your cutting in a location with plenty of indirect light, but avoid too much direct sunlight.
Now, just wait and watch. Depending on the season and the leaf, you should start to notice the first hints of roots sprouting after a week or two. However, it may take longer; these may take their time, much as the propagation of a ZZ plant may take some time. Keep in mind that roots may grow as long as the leaf is strong and healthy.
First Root after Two Weeks
Our leaf developed its first root! The roots hadn’t yet appeared on the other two. A few days later, the second one began displaying roots. However, the third one took an additional two weeks (this was an ancient leaf).
The first two’s roots are developing well. The third one does appear pretty mushy and brown in the photos, but it will still produce roots (soon).
All three of them eventually developed roots, and they are all becoming stronger every day! Daily new growth is apparent, making it a fascinating process to watch.
Months Later
About two months later, the first young plants began to emerge (in what seemed like an overnight thing). Things will start moving more quickly from this point on because the roots are good and solid.
Weeks More
There are a ton of perfectly grown young plants present after another three weeks or so. It’s interesting to note that the oldest leaf, which took the longest to form roots, also generated the most young plants.
You can either plant your water-propagated African violets in soil when they reach this size, or you can put them back in the water and wait a little while longer.
Separate the Baby Plant From Leaf
Gently detach the petiole of the old leaf from the newborn plant’s roots. You should be able to remove the old leaf with your fingers, but if you feel uneasy or worried that you could harm the new plant, you can also cut it off. Use only sterile tools, please.
Put the young plant in the ground. You can purchase soil specifically made for African violets, but regular potting soil is also acceptable.
Place the young plant in soil with care, covering any exposed roots with earth. Do not completely drench the soil in water.
We like to place the baby seedlings into a bag for a time as the final stage in plant propagation. In addition to retaining moisture, this will deter any possible pests. Your newborn plant may appear a little under the weather for the first few days, but it should quickly recover and resume growing.