A: Can distinct African violet plants be crossed to create new varieties?
A-Yes, all you need are two African violets that are blooming simultaneously. Use teeny manicure scissors to snip open one of the yellow pollen sacs in the middle of a fully opened flower to start the cross. Apply this on the white stigma of the flower you have chosen to be the female, or seed-bearing parent, which sticks out to one side of the pollen sacs.
The seedpod will swell if you are successful, and after a few months it will turn from green to brown, signifying that it is ripe. Harvest before it cracks open and all the small seeds fall out.
Single-flowered African violets are easier to pollinate. However, with some practice and probably a magnifying lens, you can identify the reproductive components hidden among the multipetals of double-flowered kinds.
A fluorescent-light garden is the best area to raise African violets since there, appropriate lighting conditions can be maintained throughout the year, with the fall and winter being the best times. Two 40-watt fluorescent tubes in a common industrial or shop fixture with a reflector can be used to grow lovely African violets. Combine one regular Warm White tube with one Cool White tube. Together, these affordable fluorescent bulbs produce a color balance of light rays that promotes healthy leaves and abundant flowering. Burn the lights for 14 to 16 hours per day.
Even while it is entertaining to experiment with cross-pollinating various African violets, if you are seriously interested in developing a valuable cultivar, you must keep records. Even if you self-pollinate, which is using pollen from one bloom to pollinate another flower on the same plant, the seeds produced may still produce quite a variety of various colors, shapes, and leaf types because the majority of violets grown today are already highly complex hybrids.
The geranium, or Pelargonium as it is botanically known, is another houseplant I like to pollinate. When a geranium flower is fully open, the pollen that surrounds the stigma, which resembles an umbrella with several spokes, is easily visible in the center. This pollen is cinnamon-powdery-fine and is similar to that found in fully open lily and amaryllis blossoms. You can use a little camel-hair artist’s brush or a brush to lightly brush the pollen from the male parent onto the female parent you’ve chosen to bear the seeds. Geranium seeds grow rather quickly and are suitable for harvesting within a few weeks once they are dried.
A cross of African violets produces flowering progeny in total after about a year. Geraniums might blossom in a little bit less time. Likewise, I have always loved crossing my amaryllis. Hippeastrums are the actual plants we grow as amaryllis, but it is a small distinction. It is best to transfer pollen from African violets and geraniums when the stigma of the female flower bursts open and turns slightly sticky as well as when the pollen becomes dry and gritty.
Amaryllis seedpods expand quickly and reach a diameter of around 1 inch. Removing them and putting them in an exposed brown bag to finish drying them out is necessary when they start to ripen and the capsule turns from green to brown. Amaryllis seeds are around the size of a cent, papery, and black. They will grow the fastest if sowed as soon as possible. Additionally, these seeds germinate more quickly when planted vertically into a drill hole sliced through the soil as opposed to flat. For optimum growth, they require a medium that is consistently moist and warm (70 to 75 degrees).
Can an African violet plant be divided?
African violets (Saintpaulia ionantha), which have fuzzy foliage and cheerful flowers, give container gardens a year-round boost of color. Although they can thrive in a protected location outside in USDA plant hardiness zones 11 and 12, they are extremely cold sensitive and must be cultivated indoors in most climates.
The multiplication of African violets can be done in a variety of ways, including division and cuttings. The plants frequently produce numerous crowns that can be divided and used to grow new plants. More quickly than other methods, division propagation produces mature African violet plants. To ensure success, they must be handled carefully as they are prone to damage.
How are African violets grown from cuttings?
African violets may be grown from leaves fairly readily. Even novice growers can easily grow more plants and increase their collection.
Step 1: Trim and remove the leaf. Take a new leaf off the plant you want to multiply. The ideal leaf to utilize is mature; nevertheless, avoid using an old, harsh leaf. Trim the leaf blade’s top with a razor or a sharp knife. Although this step is not required, it will speed up the growth of the leaf’s roots and plantlets once it has rooted and will prevent the leaf from expanding on its own.
2. Cut the leaf petiole.
View the image on the right. Cut the petiole (also known as the leaf stem) at a 45-degree angle with the cut side facing up, to a length of about 1/2. Cutting at an angle will promote the growth of additional roots and plantlets, and they will more likely show up in front of the rooted leaf as opposed to being tucked under or behind it.
Root the leaf cutting in step three.
View the image on the left. Your rooting medium should be poured into a tiny pot. This mixture ought to be extremely airy and permeable. One part Pro-Mix (a soil-free peat and perlite mix) and three parts coarse vermiculite make up our rooting mixture. Any combination, at the very least, is allowed (some growers use only vermiculite or mix with perlite). You should moisten the mixture (not too soggy, or the leaf will rot). Utilize a “swizzle stick” to create a small hole in the mixture. In this hole, insert the leaf petiole up to the base of the leaf blade (as shown), and compact the rooting mixture around it. If there is space, more than one leaf cutting may be rooted in a single pot. Put the pot in a transparent, covered container or plastic baggie after labeling it. After that, put this somewhere sunny and cool—avoid direct sunlight or places that are too hot as these could cause the leaf cutting to burn or decay.
Plantlets at 12 weeks in Stage 4. From the cut end of the rooted leaf’s petiole, one or more plantlets will start to form and rise above the dirt. The ones shown are ready to be divided and planted right away, but we often wait 4-5 months because that gives more plantlets time to develop from the cutting. Additionally, the plantlets will be slightly bigger, more manageable, and more likely to survive their transfer.
Separate the plantlets from the leaf cutting in step 5. View the image on the right. Plantlets can be detached from the “mother leaf” when they are big enough for you to handle them easily. Take the cutting out of its pot, grip a plantlet firmly, and carefully remove the plantlet away from the leaf cutting. If your rooting mixture is light and not too wet, you can probably do this without using a knife. If your plantlet is healthy, it will grow roots when it is potted, so don’t worry too much if it doesn’t have many (or even any).
Step 6: Get the plantlet’s pot ready. View the image on the left. Your typical soil mixture should be used to fill a small pot (2 or 2 1/4). Create a small hole using an old pencil that is deep enough to accommodate the plantlet that will be potted.
7. Plant the plantlet.
View the image on the right.
Place the plantlet carefully into the hole and firm the earth around it. Plantlets should be buried in the soil just deep enough to cover the entire naked central stem or “trunk,” but not so deeply that the tiny growing point in the middle of the plant is buried.
Eighth step: You’re done! Water the plant minimally and label it. You can immediately put larger plantlets among your other violets. Put the plantlet into a clear, covered container or plastic baggie if it is still very little and/or has few roots. This will provide it a little “terrarium-like environment and protect it as it grows. In a few weeks, remove it from this container.
Can a leaf cutting be used to start an African violet?
Leaf cuttings are a simple way to multiply African violets. Cut off a portion of a firm, healthy leaf using a sharp knife. Keep the petiole, or leaf stem, 1 to 112 inches from the leaf blade. Vermiculite and coarse sand mixed 50:50 with moisture should be placed in a pot. Each leaf cutting’s petiole should be inserted into the rooting medium at a 45-degree angle. Each leaf cutting’s petiole should be firmly encircled by the rooting medium.
Once all of the cuttings have been placed, moisten the rooting media and let it drain for a while. Next, put a transparent plastic bag over the clippings. Use tape or a rubber band to attach the plastic bag to the pot. The leaf cuttings’ water loss is significantly reduced by the contained habitat, which also keeps them from withering and dying before they have a chance to take root. Place the pot in a well-lit area. Normal root formation takes three to four weeks. In six to eight weeks, new plants typically sprout leaves.
At the base of each petiole, many plants typically emerge. Carefully pluck or cut apart the plants to separate them. Individualize plant care by potting each one into a container with a well-drained potting mix.
How are African violet seeds collected?
Purchasing your African violet seeds directly from a reliable online retailer is frequently the simplest option. When it comes to producing seeds, African violets can be difficult, and even when they do, the plants that emerge from the seeds hardly ever resemble the parent plant.
Despite this, you will still need to physically pollinate your African violets if you want to acquire seeds from them. Watch for the flowers to open, then record which bloom appears earliest. This is the “feminine flower” for you. Keep an eye out for another flower to open once it has been open for two or three days. Your male flower will be this.
The moment the male flower opens, gently swirl a little paintbrush around the center of the male flower to collect pollen. After that, twirl it around the female flower’s center to pollinate it.
In about 30 days, you will notice a pod forming in the middle of the flower if the female flower was fertilized successfully. The pollination was unsuccessful if no capsule develops, thus you will need to try again.
It takes the pod around two months to fully mature once it forms. After two months, take the pod from the plant, carefully open it up, and collect the seeds within.
What time of year should I divide my African violets?
Because of their lengthy lives, repotting these flowers is crucial. Ryan McEnaney, public relations and communications specialist for Bailey Nurseries, advises consumers to keep in mind that African violets can live for up to 50 years. To avoid becoming overly root-bound, plants can be repotted into larger pots as they mature. It’s probably time to relocate your African violet when it has doubled or quadrupled the size of your container and the leaves are beginning to wilt, according to McEnaney.
However, you don’t have to repot your plants right away. If your African violet appears to have outgrown its container, don’t rush to relocate it, advises Brian Parker, senior merchant for Live Goods at Home Depot. “African violets are best when their roots are in a little bound condition,” he adds. “They will produce and perform for years and years with just a simple routine of the right light and food,” the speaker said.
How should an oversized African violet be replanted?
Every five to six months, or about twice a year, African violets should be repotted. When the plant has fully grown, this merely entails repotting it in a pot of the same size with some new soil. Use a pot no bigger than the plant’s root system at all times. This often refers to a pot no bigger than a 2 1/2 for minis and semiminis, and a pot around a 4 for standards. Your violet will eventually have lost (or had removed) its older, lower leaves, creating a “neck. Repotting is required to get rid of this.
With a first step, an African violet “neck. A “The neck is the trunk that resembles a palm tree and develops throughout time as the lower leaf rows are stripped away. The lowest row of leaves on a healthy violet should emerge from the trunk at soil level. The lowest row of leaves is well above the soil line and pot rim when there is a neck. This unattractive neck can be removed by repotting. The best results come from doing this frequently, roughly every 5 to 6 months.
Step 2: Remove the root ball’s bottom. Remove the plant from the pot and cut away the bottom of the root ball in a quantity equal to the length of the neck, for example, if the neck is half as long as the plant, cut away half of the root ball. Repotting is therefore best done on a regular basis, before the neck gets too long. For instance, in the most severe scenario, if a plant had a 2 neck, we would need to take 2 out of the root ball’s bottom. Nearly the entire root system must be cut out if the pot is only 2 1/4 deep! Repotting can be done with little to no root system removal and little to no negative consequences on the plant by doing it when the neck is still small.
Step 3: Replant the plant in the same size container. If the plant is mature, a larger pot is not necessary. The violet can now be put lower into the pot because a section of the root ball’s bottom has been cut away. The plant should be lowered until the bottom row of leaves is level with the pot’s rim (i.e. no neck will be visible).
Step 4: Include new dirt. Now that its lowest row of leaves is level with the pot rim, the violet should be lowered in its pot. Fill the pot with new dirt, filling the neck to the rim. New roots will grow into the extra soil from the neck.
The replanted violet is step five. After repotting is complete, the soil level and bottom leaves should be even with the pot rim and there shouldn’t be any visible necks. Give the plant a light watering and label the pot. This is crucial because the plant will need a little less water until it starts to grow new roots into the additional soil (it has a smaller root system). This is more likely to be the case the more extreme the repotting.
Other advice. The three most frequent reasons for ill violets among novice gardeners are probably improper pot size, bad soil, and too little repotting. Even though a tiny violet was utilized in this example, the same process applies to standard-sized types as well. Repotting doesn’t need entail placing violets in ever-larger pots; most standards (unless grown for show) are perfectly content in a 4 pot! Use only containers that are as big as the root system. The plant only benefits from adding soil if it can grow a root system big enough to use that dirt!
For the majority of growers, a very light, porous, soilless potting mix is strongly advised. When purchasing a commercial mix, consider the soil’s feel rather than the label. “The poorest soil combinations for violets are frequently African violet soils! Vermiculite and/or perlite should make up 1/3 to 1/2 of the mix in mixes with a light, frothy consistency. Do not mix soil that is heavy, black, or thick. A skilled gardener can produce stunning plants in nearly any environment, but a light, soilless mix is much more tolerant to over- or underwatering, infrequent repotting, and neglect.