When To Bring Aeonium Inside

Aeoniums should be grown in pots in a bright area of the house or in a sunny site outdoors. Aeoniums require very little watering since they store water in their leaves and stems. Water the plant thoroughly in the spring and fall, then let the compost dry out before watering again to simulate heavy rains in their natural habitats. In the summer and winter, use less water. In order to preserve plants from frost in the fall, bring them inside.

Aeoniums will they withstand the winter?

  • Aeoniums are rosette-forming, perennial succulents. Depending on the species, the fleshy triangular leaves may be green, yellow, red, or even purple. An aeonium succulent can reach a mature size of 2 to 60 inches.
  • Native to the Canary Islands, these succulents are also found in East Africa, Morocco, and Madeira. Due to their extremely warm winters, the Canary Islands are frequently referred to as the location of an eternal spring. There is a Mediterranean climate. Aeoniums can therefore adapt to a wide range of temperatures all across the world.
  • Sometimes, aeoniums are mistaken for other succulent plants. They’re frequently confused with pachyverias, graptopetalums, and echeverias. They all have rosettes that are of a similar shape.
  • Many Aeonium species grow as shrubs. These have a maximum height of 60 inches. At the apex of the protruding stems are rosettes.
  • Aeoniums in the wild can be seen living alone on rocky hillsides because they enjoy solitude. They avoid other plants and grow in clusters.
  • Aeoniums require at least six hours of direct sunshine for their leaves to properly mature.
  • A mature aeonium succulent can sprout flowers on a stem. The blossoms are gathered at the apex of the stem, which is about 8 inches tall. Pink, crimson, white, yellow, or gold flowers are all possible. Once more, the specie determines the hue. The fact that aeoniums are monocarpic is helpful to know. As a result, when the stem and bloom approach the end of their life cycle, they will pass away. The succulent could be multiplied before it blooms.
  • These succulents grow best in the winter. They cannot tolerate cold or ice, though. Keep your aeoniums indoors if you reside there. Aeoniums, on the other hand, have a special manner of storing water inside the leaves, which allows them to survive droughts.

When do I need to repotted Aeoniums?

The exotic varieties of succulents, which make wonderful container examples, are among my favorite plants.

Consider planting succulents if you enjoy taking care of plants but don’t really have a lot of free time. Succulents store moisture in their thick stems, roots, and leaves, which is why they are so low maintenance and can endure lengthy periods of drought. Repotting succulents every two years will provide them more space and new, fertile soil, according to popular wisdom. Recently, my head gardener Ryan McCallister used the chance to repot a significant quantity of Aeonium succulents, which grow in stunning rosettes of fleshy, spoon-shaped leaves.

The side of my main greenhouse where I put a lot of my smaller succulents in pots has a lot of light. The majority of kinds require a full day of sunshine or at least half a day. It is advised to find some afternoon shade in excessively hot locations.

I needed to repot a few of the succulents in my collection either they had outgrown their pots or I wanted to relocate them into more attractive clay containers. These aeoniums were among them.

Aeoniums are succulents with a rosette structure that grow quickly. Aeonium are a wide genus that can be small or medium-sized, stemless or shrub-like.

Ryan starts by removing any undesirable items as well as any leaves that are too close to the stem’s base.

Every Aeonium that needs to be replanted, Ryan accomplishes this. By hand, the leaves are simple to remove. Aeonium has roughly 35 different species, the majority of which are indigenous to the Canary Islands. North Africa and Madeira are home to the other species. They share a close relationship with the Sempervivum genus.

When Ryan is through cleaning the Aeoniums, he arranges them all on the counter so that they can callus over, or dry out and develop a hard crust at the base of the cutting, before being planted in a potting media.

Overnight, these aeoniums will dry out. The Greek word “aionos,” which means “immortal,” is where the name Aeonium originates. Even though the majority of Aeonium rosettes perish after flowering, they can be readily multiplied by chopping off the rosettes prior to the onset of blooms, letting the wound heal, and then planting the new plant in soil where it will soon take root.

Ryan sets the Aeoniums aside to dry after continuing to snip off any dead leaves or spindly, deformed stems with sharp shears.

The leaves of aeonium rosettes are fairly rounded. White, yellow, red, and green leaves might be variegated or have a consistent color.

The sides and points of this eonium are rounded.

Their odd shapes are gorgeous. As you can see, the rosette’s top maintains its center-tightness while the foliage right beneath it typically spreads out considerably. The ideal temperature range for aeoniums is between 40 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

Clay or terra cotta pots with enough drainage holes work best for planting succulents since they dry out fast and keep water from accumulating. The following day, Ryan fills three pots with locally-made potting soil.

Since aeoniums require some moisture, regular potting soil is really better for them than a soil made especially for cacti and succulents. The correct soil mixture will aid in promoting quicker root growth and provide young roots with immediate anchoring.

The Aeoniums can now use these three pots. When repotting, the new pot should always have a larger diameter than the old pot, the plant, or both.

Ryan then gently starts to pot the aeoniums. Aeoniums are most beautiful when grown in groups due to their sculptural shapes.

Don’t be concerned if some of these plants contact each other because they can be placed close to one another.

Sucus, which meaning juice or sap in Latin, is the root of the English word succulent. It also pays homage to the nutritious leaves that enable these plants to endure in such sweltering temperatures.

Variety will lead to a wide range in size. A few inches tall and with rosettes that are only an inch or two wide, some aeonium cultivars are low-growing. Others will branch out and develop plate-sized rosettes that are three to four feet tall.

The majority of aeoniums thrive without fertilizer, however container-grown aeoniums benefit from a slow-release 14-14-14 fertilizer made specifically for succulents because they can quickly deplete their soil during the growing season. Apply it again in the middle of the summer once the spring growth has begun.

However, Aeoniums have shallow root systems and can’t be let to totally dry out, unlike many other succulents. Aeoniums planted in containers require more frequent watering, so during hot, dry weather, check the soil twice weekly and water if it feels dry one inch below the surface.

All of the aeoniums have been repotted and are now prepared to be placed back into the main greenhouse, where they will receive plenty of bright light. Which succulents are your favorites? Please tell me. I take the time to read all of your stories and comments.

What are some wintertime uses for aeonium?

Aeoniums flourish in bright, dry environments whether they are grown indoors or outside. They perform best in exceptionally well-drained soil or in a gravel garden because they retain water in their thick, fleshy leaves and require very little water. They are suitable for coastal gardens since their foliage is wind-resistant. Grow them in pots if your garden doesn’t meet the requirements, either by themselves or alongside other bedding plants that can withstand drought, such pelargoniums. Give aeoniums a bright area where they can get some direct sunlight if you’re growing them inside.

How to plant an aeonium

When planting an aeonium, good drainage is essential. They struggle in compost that is chilly and moist because the stem and roots rot.

The best container is made of terracotta since it is porous and lets the soil dry out between waterings. Make sure the pot has a drainage hole; it’s crucial for any extra water to be able to drain. For drainage, place a layer of 2-3 cm of gravel, grit, or crocks at the bottom of the pot. A pot the same size as the rootball should be chosen. Use a 60:40 mixture of peat-free, multipurpose compost (or a John Innes number 2) and perlite, horticultural grit, or sand to create a free-draining compost because this is crucial. A 1 cm coating of horticultural grit could be placed on top of the compost to aid in drainage and prevent stem rot.

When planting an aeonium with a flat top, like the Aeonium tabuliforme, tilt the container so that rainfall can readily flow off it outside.

Make sure your soil is free draining before planting an aeonium; sandy soil or a gravel garden are perfect.

Caring for aeoniums

Aeoniums are native to hot, dry regions that occasionally see intense downpours. If you’re growing aeoniums inside, attempt to mimic this process by letting the soil totally dry out before giving it a good watering and letting any extra water drain away. This approach is superior to watering sparingly but frequently. Reduce watering in summer and winter because aeoniums are actively growing in the fall and spring.

Rainfall should provide your aeoniums with all the water they require if you’re keeping them outside, whether in a garden or a pot.

From winter through late spring, you can feed your aeonium once a month with a half-strength plant food.

As long as their compost is not damp, aeoniums can tolerate cold winter temperatures as long as the temperature does not fall below 5C. However, they cannot tolerate frost.

How to propagate aeoniums

Aeoniums are easily multiplied by taking cuttings, which will root in a few weeks. In the spring, take cuttings. Choose tender, fresh shoots for proliferation. Compared to older, thicker shoots, these will root more readily and have greater vigor.

Cut healthy shoots with stems that are about 10 cm long. To prevent leaving a snag, stabilize the stem in your hand and cut it flush with the main stem. To make an accurate cut, use sharp secateurs.

Once the wound has calloused, turn the cuttings on their side and keep them somewhere dry and warm for a few days (see cutting on left of picture). This will lessen the possibility that the cutting may subsequently develop rot.

Insert cuttings into grit- and soil-based potting compost that is 5 cm or 8 cm deep into the pots. Make sure that at least half of the stem is above compost level and firm the compost at the cutting’s base.

After lightly wetting each cutting, add a 1 cm layer of crushed grit or perlite to the compost surface. Shake the pot to create a flat surface. This layer enhances drainage, keeping the stem dry.

Keep your cuttings indoors, in a well-lit area like a sunny windowsill, at a temperature of 18–20°C while keeping them uncovered. Make sure not to water straight onto the leaves as you water your cuttings sparingly until they have rooted. Always strive to keep the compost just barely damp.

Growing aeoniums: problem solving

  • The most frequent cause of aeonium issues is overwatering. Aeoniums are native to hot, dry climates, and they look their best when your home or garden mimics these conditions.
  • The cause of washed-out, pale foliage may be excessive irrigation. Reduce watering and wait till the compost is totally dry before watering it again. If you’re cultivating an aeonium as a house plant, you could also discover that taking it outside in the summer will bring back its brilliant color.
  • In the summer, it’s typical to see a closed-up rosette with dried leaves around the edge that are falling off. When it’s hot, aeoniums go dormant.
  • A stretched-out, leggy plant indicates that it is not receiving enough light. Place it in a more well-lit area.
  • Aerial roots are concealed by hairy stems. They occasionally develop naturally and pose little threat. However, they can indicate that your plant isn’t growing in the ideal environment. It’s possible that the soil’s roots aren’t receiving enough water. This should be avoided by giving the compost a thorough watering before letting it dry out. Watering sparingly is also ineffective because the compost needs the water to permeate deeply. On the other hand, if no perlite, sand, or grit was added to the compost before planting, they can be an indication that it isn’t free draining enough. Aerial roots may also indicate that your plant needs to be replanted or that it is rootbound and not receiving enough light.
  • Rot is indicated by a brown, mushy stem and is brought on by overwatering, especially during the winter.
  • As aeoniums are monocarpic, they die after flowering, thus if your plant starts to wither after flowering, this is typical. On branching variations, just the rosette that gave rise to the flower will wither away, though. The plant will continue to grow even if the flower head and rosette are removed.
  • Mealybugs, which are white, fluffy blobs around 5mm in diameter, may be seen on the vegetation. Use a cotton pad dipped in organic pesticide to wipe them off.
  • For plants raised in pots outside, vine weevil can be an issue. The first indication you may notice is a plant that is suddenly dying since these eat the roots covertly. Adults on the leaves and white grubs in the compost should be avoided. If you see any, get rid of right away. In late August or early September, treat with an organic nematode drench.

Advice on buying aeoniums

  • Aeoniums come in a wide range of sizes, with some reaching up to 1 m by 1 m, like Aeonium arboreum. So be sure you have space for the variety you’ve chosen. It will require a lot of bright light indoors or in a sunny area outside.
  • Verify that your plant has robust, meaty leaves and is not writhing awkwardly.
  • Aeoniums are available at garden centers, but for the best selection, go to a store that specializes in succulents or house plants, or order online.