- Take a stem cutting or a leaf cutting that is whole, including the node.
- Allow the leaf or stem to dry for a few days, or longer in humid climates. How the cuttings need to dry will depend on the stem thickness and local humidity. I haven’t attempted growing aeoniums from leaves, like I said previously. My preferred method is stem cuttings because I find it to be simpler, more reliable, and quicker. Since there are more parts to grow on leaf cuttings, it will take them longer to develop into full plants.
General Care for Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’
The monocarpic succulent “Zwartkop” is tall, but it can take several years for a rosette to bloom. Yellow flowers are what you may anticipate to see when it blooms.
Where to Plant
It is preferable to grow Aeonium arboreum in a container that can be moved indoors if you live in a zone that experiences temperatures below 30 F (-1.1 C). In direct sunlight, it displays its rich hue.
How to Propagate Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’
Cuttings are the best method for propagating Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’. Lower leaves on a stem that is growing taller will eventually drop off and die, leaving the stem bare. You can behead the rosette as it grows to create a new one.
Cuttings
Use a clean, sharp knife or a pair of scissors to behead “Zwartkop.” Take a stem from the main plant and place it on well-draining soil after letting it callus for a few days. When the soil is fully dry, add water.
Can aeonium be grown in water?
Succulents can be effectively propagated in water, contrary to popular perception. For some, water-based propagation is simpler than “dirt”-based propagation. Water is used as a medium to root succulent plants, which is exactly what water propagation entails. I have had amazing success with water propagation experiments utilizing aeonium stem cuttings and other succulent plants. Read my posts “Water Propagation for Succulents” and “Does Water Propagation Work for Succulents” to get step-by-step instructions on how to propagate aeoniums in water.
Can you grow aeonium from leaves?
Cuttings of offsets can be used to quickly propagate Aeonium Arboreum. The first few weeks of spring are ideal for propagation. Summer dormancy at the Aeonium Arboreum makes summer months a challenging time for propagation.
After cutting an offset or a branch, place it in a shaded, dry area for about 24 hours before planting it either in the ground or in a pot filled with succulent potting soil. In 3–4 weeks, roots should start to show. See our post on how to take and plant succulent cuttings for further information on how to propagate cuttings.
It’s improbable that Aeonium Arboreum would develop a brand-new plant from a leaf. Some roots might emerge from the leaves, but they almost definitely won’t give rise to any new plants.
We have never succeeded in growing Aeonium plants from their leaves, and we don’t think any Aeonium species can do it.
However, arboreum can be grown from seed. To be really honest, it is not really worth the time and effort it will take to grow a plant that is a respectable size.
A well-rooted plant will begin to produce a lot of offsets in the fall. A modest cutting can develop into a healthy-sized “tree” with numerous easy-to-produce offsets in a few years.
The best time to take aeonium cuttings is.
Aeoniums flourish in bright, dry environments whether they are grown indoors or outside. They perform best in exceptionally well-drained soil or in a gravel garden because they retain water in their thick, fleshy leaves and require very little water. They are suitable for coastal gardens since their foliage is wind-resistant. Grow them in pots if your garden doesn’t meet the requirements, either by themselves or alongside other bedding plants that can withstand drought, such pelargoniums. Give aeoniums a bright area where they can get some direct sunlight if you’re growing them inside.
How to plant an aeonium
When planting an aeonium, good drainage is essential. They struggle in compost that is chilly and moist because the stem and roots rot.
The best container is made of terracotta since it is porous and lets the soil dry out between waterings. Make sure the pot has a drainage hole; it’s crucial for any extra water to be able to drain. For drainage, place a layer of 2-3 cm of gravel, grit, or crocks at the bottom of the pot. A pot the same size as the rootball should be chosen. Use a 60:40 mixture of peat-free, multipurpose compost (or a John Innes number 2) and perlite, horticultural grit, or sand to create a free-draining compost because this is crucial. A 1 cm coating of horticultural grit could be placed on top of the compost to aid in drainage and prevent stem rot.
When planting an aeonium with a flat top, like the Aeonium tabuliforme, tilt the container so that rainfall can readily flow off it outside.
Make sure your soil is free draining before planting an aeonium; sandy soil or a gravel garden are perfect.
Caring for aeoniums
Aeoniums are native to hot, dry regions that occasionally see intense downpours. If you’re growing aeoniums inside, attempt to mimic this process by letting the soil totally dry out before giving it a good watering and letting any extra water drain away. This approach is superior to watering sparingly but frequently. Reduce watering in summer and winter because aeoniums are actively growing in the fall and spring.
Rainfall should provide your aeoniums with all the water they require if you’re keeping them outside, whether in a garden or a pot.
From winter through late spring, you can feed your aeonium once a month with a half-strength plant food.
As long as their compost is not damp, aeoniums can tolerate cold winter temperatures as long as the temperature does not fall below 5C. However, they cannot tolerate frost.
How to propagate aeoniums
Aeoniums are easily multiplied by taking cuttings, which will root in a few weeks. In the spring, take cuttings. Choose tender, fresh shoots for proliferation. Compared to older, thicker shoots, these will root more readily and have greater vigor.
Cut healthy shoots with stems that are about 10 cm long. To prevent leaving a snag, stabilize the stem in your hand and cut it flush with the main stem. To make an accurate cut, use sharp secateurs.
Once the wound has calloused, turn the cuttings on their side and keep them somewhere dry and warm for a few days (see cutting on left of picture). This will lessen the possibility that the cutting may subsequently develop rot.
Insert cuttings into grit- and soil-based potting compost that is 5 cm or 8 cm deep into the pots. Make sure that at least half of the stem is above compost level and firm the compost at the cutting’s base.
After lightly wetting each cutting, add a 1 cm layer of crushed grit or perlite to the compost surface. Shake the pot to create a flat surface. This layer enhances drainage, keeping the stem dry.
Keep your cuttings indoors, in a well-lit area like a sunny windowsill, at a temperature of 18–20°C while keeping them uncovered. Make sure not to water straight onto the leaves as you water your cuttings sparingly until they have rooted. Always strive to keep the compost just barely damp.
Growing aeoniums: problem solving
- The most frequent cause of aeonium issues is overwatering. Aeoniums are native to hot, dry climates, and they look their best when your home or garden mimics these conditions.
- The cause of washed-out, pale foliage may be excessive irrigation. Reduce watering and wait till the compost is totally dry before watering it again. If you’re cultivating an aeonium as a house plant, you could also discover that taking it outside in the summer will bring back its brilliant color.
- In the summer, it’s typical to see a closed-up rosette with dried leaves around the edge that are falling off. When it’s hot, aeoniums go dormant.
- A stretched-out, leggy plant indicates that it is not receiving enough light. Place it in a more well-lit area.
- Aerial roots are concealed by hairy stems. They occasionally develop naturally and pose little threat. However, they can indicate that your plant isn’t growing in the ideal environment. It’s possible that the soil’s roots aren’t receiving enough water. This should be avoided by giving the compost a thorough watering before letting it dry out. Watering sparingly is also ineffective because the compost needs the water to permeate deeply. On the other hand, if no perlite, sand, or grit was added to the compost before planting, they can be an indication that it isn’t free draining enough. Aerial roots may also indicate that your plant needs to be replanted or that it is rootbound and not receiving enough light.
- Rot is indicated by a brown, mushy stem and is brought on by overwatering, especially during the winter.
- As aeoniums are monocarpic, they die after flowering, thus if your plant starts to wither after flowering, this is typical. On branching variations, just the rosette that gave rise to the flower will wither away, though. The plant will continue to grow even if the flower head and rosette are removed.
- Mealybugs, which are white, fluffy blobs around 5mm in diameter, may be seen on the vegetation. Use a cotton pad dipped in organic pesticide to wipe them off.
- For plants raised in pots outside, vine weevil can be an issue. The first indication you may notice is a plant that is suddenly dying since these eat the roots covertly. Adults on the leaves and white grubs in the compost should be avoided. If you see any, get rid of right away. In late August or early September, treat with an organic nematode drench.
Advice on buying aeoniums
- Aeoniums come in a wide range of sizes, with some reaching up to 1 m by 1 m, like Aeonium arboreum. So be sure you have space for the variety you’ve chosen. It will require a lot of bright light indoors or in a sunny area outside.
- Verify that your plant has robust, meaty leaves and is not writhing awkwardly.
- Aeoniums are available at garden centers, but for the best selection, go to a store that specializes in succulents or house plants, or order online.
What is an aeonium branch made of?
You must remove some of the leaves and the growth bud in the center of the rosette when the aeonium is about 15-20cm (6-8in) tall throughout the growing season in order to encourage the plant to branch out.
Are aeoniums sun-loving plants?
Light. Aeonium plants do best in full sun to part shade, like the majority of succulents. Light shade may be required in desert and hot summer climates. Give them bright indirect light inside.
Can succulent cuttings be planted directly in the ground?
What is there to love other than a succulent? Obviously, a full garden of succulents! Fortunately for us, it’s simple to propagate a variety of these resilient, vibrant plants at home. We can’t wait to see succulents growing all year long in containers around the house and garden; there are various easy ways to reproduce them.
Propagating by Division: Plants that have gotten too leggy perform best with this method, which produces new succulents from cuttings. Start by delicately removing any leaves that may be attached to the stem below the rosette; be sure to preserve the leaf’s base while you do so. After all the leaves have been eliminated, cut the rosette with shears, leaving a brief stem intact. The cuttings should be let to dry in an empty tray for a few days until the raw ends have calloused. The cuttings can then be rooted in either water or soil.
Soil: After the stems have calloused, set the cuttings on top of a shallow tray filled with well-draining cactus/succulent soil. From the base of the cuttings, roots and little plants will start to emerge in a few weeks. Once the roots start to show, water sparingly once a week; take care not to overwater. The parent leaf will eventually wither; carefully remove it while taking care not to harm the young roots. Your propagated succulents can be replanted once they have established roots. As soon as the plants are established, keep them out of direct sunlight.
Water: After the stem has calloused, place a cutting with the end barely visible above the water’s surface on the lip of a glass or jar filled with water. Pick a sunny location for your glass. The incision will eventually produce roots that extend toward the water. Once roots have sprouted, your new succulent can either be replanted in succulent potting soil or allowed to remain submerged in water as illustrated above.
Offsets are little plants that develop at the base of the main specimen, and many species of succulents, such as aloe, hens and chicks, and some cacti, will generate them. Check for root growth after an offset has developed for two to three weeks before carefully twisting, cutting, or using a sharp knife to separate it from the main stem. Be cautious to prevent destroying any already-formed roots. Follow the directions above for propagating in soil or water, letting the offsets dry, establish roots, and then repot when they have had time to callus any exposed regions. Removing offsets has the added benefit of enhancing the health of your current succulents and redirecting energy into the growth of the primary plant.
What are some uses for aeonium leggy?
“Cut off the tops of aeoniums when they become lanky, leaving about an inch or two of stem, then discard the entire plant, roots and all. Each rosette should be repotted as a cutting. Put it in the ground so that it is barely above the surface.
In the winter, do you water aeoniums?
- Aeoniums are succulents that are evergreen and have a wide range of hues, dimensions, and forms. Their hue is influenced by the amount of sun exposure they receive as well as the environment they are growing in.
- These succulents prefer warm, dry environments. Aeoniums, however, dislike frost and very hot weather.
- Some aeonium species can become entirely dormant in the summer because they have water stored in their leaves and don’t need it to survive. Aeoniums are also not susceptible to illnesses and have a high level of pest resistance.
- In the winter, aeoniums don’t require a lot of irrigation. Before you water the plants, check to see if the soil is dry. If you do it daily, the additional moisture can result in root rot.
- These succulents can be grown in a garden or indoors. Remember that they require sunlight or some shade if you put them outside.
- It’s a great idea to cultivate aeoniums in pots since you can keep your plants safe from the elements and give them ideal growing conditions.
- When propagating aeoniums, there is no need to apply any specific fertilizer; however, you could want to add a little of the cactus potting mix.
- The growth of aeoniums is simple. Using either seeds or cuttings is acceptable. When stem fragments fall to the ground below, they can also develop into new plants.
- Aeoniums are generally completely harmless for pets. You can allow your pets get close to these gorgeous plants because they are not poisonous to cats or dogs.