How To Propagate Aeonium Kiwi

Aeonium Kiwi has different requirements than other succulents, as was already noted. However, once understood, this plant is rather simple. Watch this video for a quick explanation of Aeonium Kiwis and how to care for them.

Light & Temperature

Dream Color’s beautiful hues are reliant on sunlight. This succulent, however, burns easily. As long as it’s not too hot, the plant should be content with a few hours of direct sunlight each day. Without direct sunshine, Dream Color can also thrive, albeit the colors won’t be as vivid. An east or west-facing window is good for your Kiwi indoors so that it won’t receive too much direct sunlight.

The optimal temperature range is between 65 and 75 F. Aeonium Kiwi can endure temperatures as low as 20 F.

Water & Humidity

Tricolor needs less watering overall and more frequently than other succulents because of its thin roots. But don’t go overboard! In the winter and spring, water once per week. Although the aeonium kiwi loves moisture, it should never be allowed to sit in water.

Unless it is really dry, Tricolor does not require water throughout the summer when it goes dormant. To avoid water evaporation and water loss, the leaves may curl. By keeping your succulent indoors during the summer, you can avoid this. Give your Kiwi a drink, and it should be alright if you’re worried about the leaves.

The plant will wilt and have withered leaves if it receives insufficient water. On the other hand, a surplus of water causes mushy, discolored leaves.


Don’t be deceived by the inclination for dampness. As with many succulent and cactus plants, Aeonium Kiwi requires soil that drains well. You can use perlite-mixed potting soil or specific succulent soil.


Although fertilizer is not necessary for aeoniums, it will aid. If you do, use a balanced, half-strength liquid fertilizer. During the growing season, your Aeonium Kiwi should be fed once a month, but not at all during dormancy.


Repotting is beneficial for the health of your tricolor every few years. Before its dormancy expires at the end of the summer, this should be done. It will make your succulent happy to have a new home for the growing season!

Pick a container with room for expansion and fill it with fresh soil that drains well. Repot your Tricolor and then start watering it as usual.


Cuttings and division are simple methods for multiplying aeoniums. When your succulent is growing, in the spring or winter, is the perfect time to propagate it. Before beginning, you should thoroughly water your plant.

The best approach to increase your Kiwi Aeonium for personal use or as a gift is by stem cuttings. The procedure is simple:

Make the cut a few inches beneath the rosette of the stem. If desired, dust the ends with rooting powder.

Plant: Place the cutting upright in a bed of soil that drains well. Once it has established, water your new Dream Color as usual and keep it out of direct sunlight.

Dream Colors makes it simple to propagate by offsets or division as they get the process going for you! Low-hanging stems cause the plant to grow by producing roots. If you notice this, it’s simple to clip off these offsets and plant them using the cut, dry, plant technique. Alternately, you might wait until the roots have formed before dividing the plant.


Only if you wish to alter the shape of your Tricolor is pruning required. This succulent’s rosettes frequently clump together like a bush. The stems of your Tricolor could stretch out and damage its rounded shape if it hasn’t received enough light.

To keep the Tricolor in its intended shape, you can trim down stray stems and offsets. It will be best to propagate and start over if all the stems are close together.

How is aeonium Haworthii Kiwi propagated?

Aeonium plants are incredibly simple to grow from seed. Simply cut off a branch, let it calluse, and then plant it again! For optimal results, propagate during the winter, when Kiwi Aeonium grows quickly. But it is doable all year round!

You’ll have plenty of stem options because the plant grows to a height of two to three feet. Since aeonium tend to grow more leafy terminal ends, you’ll have plenty of vacant area to cut. About 4-6 inches from the end, cut a portion. Your Kiwi Aeonium propagation is more likely to be effective if the branch is healthier, as shown by the quality of the leaves. Use sharp garden scissors to provide a clean cut because callusing depends on it.

Leave the cut object somewhere warm and dry for three to five days. The branch’s tip will develop a callus or scab to protect against infection and excessive water absorption. Then bury it with soil. It will develop little roots after a few weeks. The plant may need your assistance as it develops roots to secure itself. During this time, water it just like you would the mother plant. It won’t be able to absorb water until it has roots, but by the time they appear, you can sure it will be thirsty!

How long does it take for aeonium cuttings to root?

One of the most straightforward succulent plants to root, in my opinion, is the aeonium. I can vouch for this based on all the aeoniums I have previously rooted and propagated. Take a stem cutting, place it aside, and keep it somewhere dry and out of the sun if you want to see it grow roots. After around two weeks, you will notice roots starting to grow from the base of the stem. That’s how easy it is, in fact. You can use a rooting hormone if you want to see results more quickly.

I’ve never really attempted to root aeonium leaves. It can, however, and many have supposedly tried and tested it. According to the general rule, an aeonium has a better chance of taking root when its leaves are thicker. I haven’t really tried to root the leaves because stem cuttings are so simple and practically infallible, and because I eventually get numerous plants from a single stem cutting due to the way it branches out. However, if you’re wondering whether that’s conceivable, it seems to be.

Can aeonium be propagated from Leaf?

Cuttings of offsets can be used to quickly propagate Aeonium Arboreum. The first few weeks of spring are ideal for propagation. Summer dormancy at the Aeonium Arboreum makes summer months a challenging time for propagation.

After cutting an offset or a branch, place it in a shaded, dry area for about 24 hours before planting it either in the ground or in a pot filled with succulent potting soil. In 3–4 weeks, roots should start to show. See our post on how to take and plant succulent cuttings for further information on how to propagate cuttings.

It’s improbable that Aeonium Arboreum would develop a brand-new plant from a leaf. Some roots might emerge from the leaves, but they almost definitely won’t give rise to any new plants.

We have never succeeded in growing Aeonium plants from their leaves, and we don’t think any Aeonium species can do it.

However, arboreum can be grown from seed. To be really honest, it is not really worth the time and effort it will take to grow a plant that is a respectable size.

A well-rooted plant will begin to produce a lot of offsets in the fall. A modest cutting can develop into a healthy-sized “tree” with numerous easy-to-produce offsets in a few years.

Can you cut an aeonium for cuttings?

Aeoniums flourish in bright, dry environments whether they are grown indoors or outside. They perform best in exceptionally well-drained soil or in a gravel garden because they retain water in their thick, fleshy leaves and require very little water. They are suitable for coastal gardens since their foliage is wind-resistant. Grow them in pots if your garden doesn’t meet the requirements, either by themselves or alongside other bedding plants that can withstand drought, such pelargoniums. Give aeoniums a bright area where they can get some direct sunlight if you’re growing them inside.

How to plant an aeonium

When planting an aeonium, good drainage is essential. They struggle in compost that is chilly and moist because the stem and roots rot.

The best container is made of terracotta since it is porous and lets the soil dry out between waterings. Make sure the pot has a drainage hole; it’s crucial for any extra water to be able to drain. For drainage, place a layer of 2-3 cm of gravel, grit, or crocks at the bottom of the pot. A pot the same size as the rootball should be chosen. Use a 60:40 mixture of peat-free, multipurpose compost (or a John Innes number 2) and perlite, horticultural grit, or sand to create a free-draining compost because this is crucial. A 1 cm coating of horticultural grit could be placed on top of the compost to aid in drainage and prevent stem rot.

When planting an aeonium with a flat top, like the Aeonium tabuliforme, tilt the container so that rainfall can readily flow off it outside.

Make sure your soil is free draining before planting an aeonium; sandy soil or a gravel garden are perfect.

Caring for aeoniums

Aeoniums are native to hot, dry regions that occasionally see intense downpours. If you’re growing aeoniums inside, attempt to mimic this process by letting the soil totally dry out before giving it a good watering and letting any extra water drain away. This approach is superior to watering sparingly but frequently. Reduce watering in summer and winter because aeoniums are actively growing in the fall and spring.

Rainfall should provide your aeoniums with all the water they require if you’re keeping them outside, whether in a garden or a pot.

From winter through late spring, you can feed your aeonium once a month with a half-strength plant food.

As long as their compost is not damp, aeoniums can tolerate cold winter temperatures as long as the temperature does not fall below 5C. However, they cannot tolerate frost.

How to propagate aeoniums

Aeoniums are easily multiplied by taking cuttings, which will root in a few weeks. In the spring, take cuttings. Choose tender, fresh shoots for proliferation. Compared to older, thicker shoots, these will root more readily and have greater vigor.

Cut healthy shoots with stems that are about 10 cm long. To prevent leaving a snag, stabilize the stem in your hand and cut it flush with the main stem. To make an accurate cut, use sharp secateurs.

Once the wound has calloused, turn the cuttings on their side and keep them somewhere dry and warm for a few days (see cutting on left of picture). This will lessen the possibility that the cutting may subsequently develop rot.

Insert cuttings into grit- and soil-based potting compost that is 5 cm or 8 cm deep into the pots. Make sure that at least half of the stem is above compost level and firm the compost at the cutting’s base.

After lightly wetting each cutting, add a 1 cm layer of crushed grit or perlite to the compost surface. Shake the pot to create a flat surface. This layer enhances drainage, keeping the stem dry.

Keep your cuttings indoors, in a well-lit area like a sunny windowsill, at a temperature of 18–20°C while keeping them uncovered. Make sure not to water straight onto the leaves as you water your cuttings sparingly until they have rooted. Always strive to keep the compost just barely damp.

Growing aeoniums: problem solving

  • The most frequent cause of aeonium issues is overwatering. Aeoniums are native to hot, dry climates, and they look their best when your home or garden mimics these conditions.
  • The cause of washed-out, pale foliage may be excessive irrigation. Reduce watering and wait till the compost is totally dry before watering it again. If you’re cultivating an aeonium as a house plant, you could also discover that taking it outside in the summer will bring back its brilliant color.
  • In the summer, it’s typical to see a closed-up rosette with dried leaves around the edge that are falling off. When it’s hot, aeoniums go dormant.
  • A stretched-out, leggy plant indicates that it is not receiving enough light. Place it in a more well-lit area.
  • Aerial roots are concealed by hairy stems. They occasionally develop naturally and pose little threat. However, they can indicate that your plant isn’t growing in the ideal environment. It’s possible that the soil’s roots aren’t receiving enough water. This should be avoided by giving the compost a thorough watering before letting it dry out. Watering sparingly is also ineffective because the compost needs the water to permeate deeply. On the other hand, if no perlite, sand, or grit was added to the compost before planting, they can be an indication that it isn’t free draining enough. Aerial roots may also indicate that your plant needs to be replanted or that it is rootbound and not receiving enough light.
  • Rot is indicated by a brown, mushy stem and is brought on by overwatering, especially during the winter.
  • As aeoniums are monocarpic, they die after flowering, thus if your plant starts to wither after flowering, this is typical. On branching variations, just the rosette that gave rise to the flower will wither away, though. The plant will continue to grow even if the flower head and rosette are removed.
  • Mealybugs, which are white, fluffy blobs around 5mm in diameter, may be seen on the vegetation. Use a cotton pad dipped in organic pesticide to wipe them off.
  • For plants raised in pots outside, vine weevil can be an issue. The first indication you may notice is a plant that is suddenly dying since these eat the roots covertly. Adults on the leaves and white grubs in the compost should be avoided. If you see any, get rid of right away. In late August or early September, treat with an organic nematode drench.

Advice on buying aeoniums

  • Aeoniums come in a wide range of sizes, with some reaching up to 1 m by 1 m, like Aeonium arboreum. So be sure you have space for the variety you’ve chosen. It will require a lot of bright light indoors or in a sunny area outside.
  • Verify that your plant has robust, meaty leaves and is not writhing awkwardly.
  • Aeoniums are available at garden centers, but for the best selection, go to a store that specializes in succulents or house plants, or order online.


Cuttings of aeoniums can be grown from quite easily. They frequently branch out, so you might have a few stems to choose from. To improve your chances of a successful propagation, choose one that is covered in leaves.

Cut three to four inches beneath the primary rosettes using a pair of sharp garden shears. Plant the stem in well-draining soil after allowing the end of the stem to callus (this will take around 3 days). After repotting, water once a week for the next few weeks.

Before roots start to appear, it will take roughly two weeks. Aeonium kiwis are simple to root.


Although it takes longer and is less effective than reproducing Aeoniums from cuttings, it is nevertheless possible.

Wiggle the leaf off the plant carefully to retrieve it for propagation. Make certain the leaf you select is substantial and nutritious. A wrinkled, tiny, or withered leaf is not recommended because it will not grow as well.

Whole leaves have a much better chance of reproducing than torn ones, so carefully pull the leaf from the stem, making sure you obtain the entire leaf and there is no fragment left on the stem. Give the leaves two to three days to calluse.

Put the leaf on some dirt once it has calloused. Give the soil a weekly watering and expose it to filtered sunshine. Compared to their parents, leaf propagations require more water and less sunlight.

A little rosette will eventually develop at the leaf’s tip after a few weeks. The parent leaf will eventually dry up as the young succulent grows and absorbs nutrients from it.

When the new baby plant is approximately an inch big, it can be placed in its own little container. Now you can supply bright, filtered sun and water once every week.


Aeonium The stems of kiwi offsets (pups) branch out as they mature. With a fresh pair of garden shears, carefully remove the offset once it is about 1/4 the size of its parent. To give yourself enough place to plant the offset, leave about 2 inches of stem.

Plant in a fresh container after allowing the stem to callus for two to three days. After repotting, water the new plant for around 5 days to give it time to adapt to its new surroundings. Every four to five days, provide water and bright, filtered sun.