How To Propagate Aeonium Black Rose

Cut a stem from your Black Rose, let it dry, and then plant it in the appropriate soil if you want to multiply it. Before the stem dries, you can apply rooting hormone to it to hasten the growth process. It requires water every few days and must be protected from the sun while its roots are still growing.

How long do aeonium cuttings take to root?

One of the most straightforward succulent plants to root, in my opinion, is the aeonium. I can vouch for this based on all the aeoniums I have previously rooted and propagated. Take a stem cutting, place it aside, and keep it somewhere dry and out of the sun if you want to see it grow roots. After around two weeks, you will notice roots starting to grow from the base of the stem. That’s how easy it is, in fact. You can use a rooting hormone if you want to see results more quickly.

I’ve never really attempted to root aeonium leaves. It can, however, and many have supposedly tried and tested it. According to the general rule, an aeonium has a better chance of taking root when its leaves are thicker. I haven’t really tried to root the leaves because stem cuttings are so simple and practically infallible, and because I eventually get numerous plants from a single stem cutting due to the way it branches out. However, if you’re wondering whether that’s conceivable, it seems to be.

Aeonium leaves can they be multiplied?

Cuttings of offsets can be used to quickly propagate Aeonium Arboreum. The first few weeks of spring are ideal for propagation. Summer dormancy at the Aeonium Arboreum makes summer months a challenging time for propagation.

After cutting an offset or a branch, place it in a shaded, dry area for about 24 hours before planting it either in the ground or in a pot filled with succulent potting soil. In 3–4 weeks, roots should start to show. See our post on how to take and plant succulent cuttings for further information on how to propagate cuttings.

It’s improbable that Aeonium Arboreum would develop a brand-new plant from a leaf. Some roots might emerge from the leaves, but they almost definitely won’t give rise to any new plants.

We have never succeeded in growing Aeonium plants from their leaves, and we don’t think any Aeonium species can do it.

However, arboreum can be grown from seed. To be really honest, it is not really worth the time and effort it will take to grow a plant that is a respectable size.

A well-rooted plant will begin to produce a lot of offsets in the fall. A modest cutting can develop into a healthy-sized “tree” with numerous easy-to-produce offsets in a few years.

Are Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’ (Black Rose) Indoor or Outdoor Plants?

These plants grow very well outside where they can get enough of sunlight because they need a lot of light to develop. Up until the weather drops below freezing, they grow best outside. In USDA hardiness zones 9–12, they are most resilient. They must be shielded from freezing temperatures when growing outside.

You can successfully grow them indoors as long as you adhere to these guidelines.

Indoor Growing Requirements

Lighting and irrigation are the two most crucial factors to think about when keeping plants inside. Give forth the brightest light you can. Place your plant in the room’s brightest window. The plant loses its dark hue and develops green leaves if it does not receive enough light.

The stems will soon start to elongate and grow incredibly long as they search out more light. The name of this procedure is etiolation. Etiolation weakens the plant by causing low growth.

If you see this, you should either transfer the plant outside where it may receive more light or into a room with more light. To discover the ideal location for the plant, you usually need to move it around a bit.

To keep your Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’ plants happy while they are indoors growing, move them outside during the warmer months. You can think about utilizing a grow light to augment the plant’s need for sunshine if transferring the plant is not an option.

Here are a few grow light suggestions I have. The plant should receive 5 to 6 hours of direct sunlight each day in order to grow.

When planted indoors, be careful not to overwater Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’ and make sure to use a well-draining potting mix. This plant will suffer from low light and permanently moist soil, which will cause it to die young. Check out my post “Proper Lighting For Succulents Indoors” for more information and advice on this subject.

Outdoor Sunlight Requirements

The Aeonium arboreum “Zwartkop” (Black Rose) can withstand both full sun and partial shade. As much sunlight as you can provide To avoid shocking the plant and burning its leaves when exposing it to more extreme light exposure, it is recommended to acclimatize the plant.

Once it is able to handle more extreme heat or full light, gradually increase its sun exposure. Compared to smaller, less established plants, mature plants are better able to withstand full sun. Even after becoming accustomed to the sun’s rays, a plant might still become sunburnt or suffer sun damage during periods of intense heat.

During a heat wave, you may keep your plants from becoming sunburned by moving them to a shaded spot or hiding them beneath taller plants, furniture, or trees. For individuals who live in places where the sun can severely sear the plants, sunshades are a fantastic option. Here are some of my suggestions for sun protection.

Should aeonium cuttings be watered?

Aeoniums should be grown in pots in a bright area of the house or in a sunny site outdoors. Aeoniums require very little watering since they store water in their leaves and stems. Water the plant thoroughly in the spring and fall, then let the compost dry out before watering again to simulate heavy rains in their natural habitats. In the summer and winter, use less water. In order to preserve plants from frost in the fall, bring them inside.

Can succulent cuttings be planted directly in the ground?

What is there to love other than a succulent? Obviously, a full garden of succulents! Fortunately for us, it’s simple to propagate a variety of these resilient, vibrant plants at home. We can’t wait to see succulents growing all year long in containers around the house and garden; there are various easy ways to reproduce them.

Propagating by Division: Plants that have gotten too leggy perform best with this method, which produces new succulents from cuttings. Start by delicately removing any leaves that may be attached to the stem below the rosette; be sure to preserve the leaf’s base while you do so. After all the leaves have been eliminated, cut the rosette with shears, leaving a brief stem intact. The cuttings should be let to dry in an empty tray for a few days until the raw ends have calloused. The cuttings can then be rooted in either water or soil.

Soil: After the stems have calloused, set the cuttings on top of a shallow tray filled with well-draining cactus/succulent soil. From the base of the cuttings, roots and little plants will start to emerge in a few weeks. Once the roots start to show, water sparingly once a week; take care not to overwater. The parent leaf will eventually wither; carefully remove it while taking care not to harm the young roots. Your propagated succulents can be replanted once they have established roots. As soon as the plants are established, keep them out of direct sunlight.

Water: After the stem has calloused, place a cutting with the end barely visible above the water’s surface on the lip of a glass or jar filled with water. Pick a sunny location for your glass. The incision will eventually produce roots that extend toward the water. Once roots have sprouted, your new succulent can either be replanted in succulent potting soil or allowed to remain submerged in water as illustrated above.

Offsets are little plants that develop at the base of the main specimen, and many species of succulents, such as aloe, hens and chicks, and some cacti, will generate them. Check for root growth after an offset has developed for two to three weeks before carefully twisting, cutting, or using a sharp knife to separate it from the main stem. Be cautious to prevent destroying any already-formed roots. Follow the directions above for propagating in soil or water, letting the offsets dry, establish roots, and then repot when they have had time to callus any exposed regions. Removing offsets has the added benefit of enhancing the health of your current succulents and redirecting energy into the growth of the primary plant.

Is it better to grow succulents in soil or water for reproduction?

Using water as a medium to root succulent cuttings is known as water propagation. This may contradict popular perceptions of succulents. The general consensus is that succulent plants dislike sitting in water and that doing so encourages root rot.

Therefore, water propagation may go against what we have learned to be true about nurturing and propagating succulents. However, lately I seem to be hearing more and more about water propagation.

According on what I have heard and read, some people believe water propagation to be simpler than more “standard” techniques like roots on dry medium or soil.

I’ve heard a lot of success tales from folks who used water propagation after trying succulent propagation unsuccessfully for a long time. In fact, some people solely reproduce succulent cuttings using water because they see quicker outcomes and more overall success.

According to one notion I’ve heard, succulent cuttings don’t rot in water since water isn’t the main source of rot. When succulent plants are left in moist soil, they are exposed to fungi and other pathogens that can cause illnesses and root rot in the plant. The plants do not decay when propagating in water because they are not exposed to the pathogens that are often found in the soil media.

The fact that the roots generated in water are different from those required for a plant to thrive in soil is another worry people have regarding water propagation. They need to create new roots that are better suited for thriving in soil after they are planted. Others who propagate in water, however, claim that the plants flourish when transferred from water to soil.

As someone who has had excellent success with “soil propagation,” I decided to conduct an experiment to find out how water propagates. To see what might happen, I tried soaking three stem cuttings in water. I picked two distinct plants that I had no trouble establishing in soil. I reasoned that picking a plant that is simple to grow would increase my chances of success. I used stem cuttings from the aeonium (blushing beauty) and the jade (crassula ovata) plants.

The water was placed in three Mason jars, which I covered with clear plastic and punctured in the middle of. I used drinking water that has been treated. Some individuals drink simple tap water. Others have reportedly used distilled water. I didn’t enrich the water with any nutrients. This is not required, based on what I’ve read.

The three stem cuttings were then placed on the jar’s rim with their tips resting directly on the water. When rooting in water, there are two main approaches that people take. One technique is to place the cuts’ end just above the water’s surface. The reason for this is because the cuttings will start looking for moisture and roots. Another approach is to actually let the cuts’ ends touch the water. Although both procedures appear to be effective, I opted for the second one.

I placed the cuttings in a well-lit spot and made an effort to ignore them for a few weeks. The cuts still look the same as I had left them when we returned from a family holiday two weeks later. No roots developed. I just left them alone and kind of forgot about them because the water didn’t seem to need to be refreshed or changed.

I was surprised to notice that the two jade cuttings had a lot of pink roots after another two weeks (a total of roughly four weeks).

Six weeks after the experiment’s start, the jade plants continued to grow more roots while the aeonium remained unchanged.

I took the roots cuttings out of the water and placed them on paper to dry for approximately a day after deciding that it was time to transplant them into soil after around 6 weeks. All three stem cuttings appeared healthy and were not rotting.

The next test will be to evaluate how these cuttings fare in soil after spending five weeks in water and developing water roots. After five weeks, the aeonium cutting hardly developed any roots, but I will still plant it in soil. Since I have grown several aeonium cuttings in soil before, I am almost convinced that this will flourish once planted.

I made a cactus mix and perlite mixture and put the potting mix in little pots. After that, the stem cuttings were placed inside the pot.

The same care is given to these potted cuttings as I do to my other stem cuttings. Keep them in a spot with plenty of light, but shield them from the hot afternoon heat or direct sunlight.

Increases in the quantity and quality of sunlight can be made once these plants are well-established and rooted.

Move to a more shady area if you see that they are getting sunburned. The plants can be moved around to observe where they thrive. After around three weeks, you can pull the stem out to see if the cuttings have rooted. The plant has rooted if it resists being pulled out of the ground and is challenging to do so.

Update:

Please click on to see how these plants are doing four months later “Click here to see updates and photographs for Does Water Propagation Work for Succulents?

A Step-by-Step Guide for How to Procreate in Water is Provided Below:

acquire a cutting. Snip a piece of a succulent plant’s stem. Leggy plants can be a fantastic source of stem cuttings. Leave the stem naked for at least two inches.

OR You can propagate plants by using leaves in place of a stem cutting, or by using both stems and leaves.

Pick healthy leafy plants. A healthy leaf is a better place to start if you want to succeed. Select leaves that are not ripped, torn, damaged, or irregularly shaped. Instead of dried and flat leaves, search for full, plump leaves.

Remove the leaves off the stem gently. Your thumb and forefinger should be used to carefully twist the leaves from the stem. Some leaves are loosely linked to the stem while others are securely attached.

To remove the entire leaf, gently wriggle it back and forth. The entire leaf, including the base where it connects to the stem, is what you desire. The leaf won’t survive if the base does not separate or if it sustains harm.

Launder the cuttings. Till the cut end has calloused or dried, let the cutting air dry for a few days.

Submerge in water. Select the ideal-sized cup for the clippings, then fill it with water. Place the cutting so that the stem or leaf’s tip is slightly visible above the water’s surface.

Another method is to let the cutting to touch the water at the end. From what I’ve heard, both approaches appear to be effective. (I chose to do the latter, where the cuts’ end was in the water.)

Plant the cuttings that have roots. After the cuttings have developed roots, let them dry for a few days. The roots cuttings can be planted in an appropriate potting mix once they have dried out.

occasionally use water. Compared to adult plants, baby plants require a bit more moisture. Spray the soil with a spray bottle sparingly once every few days or whenever it seems dry. Reduce watering to once a week after the plant has a stronger root system.

Keep away from the sun’s rays. When first planted in their own pot, shield young plants from direct sunshine to avoid sun damage. As a plant matures, gradually increase sunshine and sun exposure in accordance with the needs of the plant.

Some people opt to leave the rooted cuttings submerged in water rather than planting them as described in step 7 of the process. In water, the cuttings will perpetually live and thrive. Every few weeks or as needed, replace the water and add fresh, clean water.

Some individuals use hydroponics to grow succulents in water. They enjoy the way it seems and are very successful with them. They can be left with lots of light either inside or outside.

My opinions on the spread of water:

I don’t see the necessity to pursue water propagation since I have success with “soil” propagation. It does appear more simple, and I can understand why it could be appealing to others. Just submerge the plants or set them directly over water, then wait for the roots to form.

The aeonium cutting was the only plant that didn’t actually produce any roots at all when I attempted this procedure; it took approximately 4-5 weeks for roots to start to appear. Given that I only utilized stem cuttings and attempted two distinct plant species, I might have different outcomes with leaf cuttings or with other plant species. Additionally, the stem cuttings I left in water for five weeks were OK and didn’t rot or die.

Naturally, depending on the surroundings, the outcomes would definitely vary for others. Depending on the temperature, the type of plant, etc., some people have more success than others when it comes to soil propagation. I most certainly wouldn’t completely reject this approach and would encourage others to give it a shot, even if it’s only for fun or for those who haven’t had success with the “dry” approach.

According to what I have read and heard, many people prefer this technique because it is quicker and they have more success with it than with soil propagation. Therefore, this is definitely worth a shot if you want to experiment and try something new or if you’ve tried propagating repeatedly but without success. Please select “To learn about further succulent propagation techniques, read 4 Simple Ways to Propagate Succulents.

About

You’ve come to the correct location if, like me, you enjoy succulents. This website is a repository for the succulent-growing knowledge I’ve accumulated over the years and am still learning. Although I am by no means an expert on succulents and cacti, this website was created as a result of years of hard work, love, and many mistakes and learning opportunities.