One of the most straightforward succulent plants to root, in my opinion, is the aeonium. I can vouch for this based on all the aeoniums I have previously rooted and propagated. Take a stem cutting, place it aside, and keep it somewhere dry and out of the sun if you want to see it grow roots. After around two weeks, you will notice roots starting to grow from the base of the stem. That’s how easy it is, in fact. You can use a rooting hormone if you want to see results more quickly.
I’ve never really attempted to root aeonium leaves. It can, however, and many have supposedly tried and tested it. According to the general rule, an aeonium has a better chance of taking root when its leaves are thicker. I haven’t really tried to root the leaves because stem cuttings are so simple and practically infallible, and because I eventually get numerous plants from a single stem cutting due to the way it branches out. However, if you’re wondering whether that’s conceivable, it seems to be.
Can you cut an aeonium for cuttings?
Aeoniums flourish in bright, dry environments whether they are grown indoors or outside. They perform best in exceptionally well-drained soil or in a gravel garden because they retain water in their thick, fleshy leaves and require very little water. They are suitable for coastal gardens since their foliage is wind-resistant. Grow them in pots if your garden doesn’t meet the requirements, either by themselves or alongside other bedding plants that can withstand drought, such pelargoniums. Give aeoniums a bright area where they can get some direct sunlight if you’re growing them inside.
How to plant an aeonium
When planting an aeonium, good drainage is essential. They struggle in compost that is chilly and moist because the stem and roots rot.
The best container is made of terracotta since it is porous and lets the soil dry out between waterings. Make sure the pot has a drainage hole; it’s crucial for any extra water to be able to drain. For drainage, place a layer of 2-3 cm of gravel, grit, or crocks at the bottom of the pot. A pot the same size as the rootball should be chosen. Use a 60:40 mixture of peat-free, multipurpose compost (or a John Innes number 2) and perlite, horticultural grit, or sand to create a free-draining compost because this is crucial. A 1 cm coating of horticultural grit could be placed on top of the compost to aid in drainage and prevent stem rot.
When planting an aeonium with a flat top, like the Aeonium tabuliforme, tilt the container so that rainfall can readily flow off it outside.
Make sure your soil is free draining before planting an aeonium; sandy soil or a gravel garden are perfect.
Caring for aeoniums
Aeoniums are native to hot, dry regions that occasionally see intense downpours. If you’re growing aeoniums inside, attempt to mimic this process by letting the soil totally dry out before giving it a good watering and letting any extra water drain away. This is a better approach than watering little and often. Reduce watering in summer and winter because aeoniums are actively growing in the fall and spring.
Rainfall should provide your aeoniums with all the water they require if you’re keeping them outside, whether in a garden or a pot.
From winter through late spring, you can feed your aeonium once a month with a half-strength plant food.
As long as their compost is not damp, aeoniums can tolerate cold winter temperatures as long as the temperature does not fall below 5C. However, they cannot tolerate frost.
How to propagate aeoniums
Aeoniums are easily multiplied by taking cuttings, which will root in a few weeks. In the spring, take cuttings. Choose tender, fresh shoots for proliferation. Compared to older, thicker shoots, these will root more readily and have greater vigor.
Cut healthy shoots with stems that are about 10 cm long. To prevent leaving a snag, stabilize the stem in your hand and cut it flush with the main stem. To make an accurate cut, use sharp secateurs.
Once the wound has calloused, turn the cuttings on their side and keep them somewhere dry and warm for a few days (see cutting on left of picture). This will lessen the possibility that the cutting may subsequently develop rot.
Insert cuttings into grit- and soil-based potting compost that is 5 cm or 8 cm deep into the pots. Make sure that at least half of the stem is above compost level and firm the compost at the cutting’s base.
After lightly wetting each cutting, add a 1 cm layer of crushed grit or perlite to the compost surface. Shake the pot to create a flat surface. This layer enhances drainage, keeping the stem dry.
Keep your cuttings indoors, in a well-lit area like a sunny windowsill, at a temperature of 18–20°C while keeping them uncovered. Make sure not to water straight onto the leaves as you water your cuttings sparingly until they have rooted. Always strive to keep the compost just barely damp.
Growing aeoniums: problem solving
- The most frequent cause of aeonium issues is overwatering. Aeoniums are native to hot, dry climates, and they look their best when your home or garden mimics these conditions.
- The cause of washed-out, pale foliage may be excessive irrigation. Reduce watering and wait till the compost is totally dry before watering it again. If you’re cultivating an aeonium as a house plant, you could also discover that taking it outside in the summer will bring back its brilliant color.
- In the summer, it’s typical to see a closed-up rosette with dried leaves around the edge that are falling off. When it’s hot, aeoniums go dormant.
- A stretched-out, leggy plant indicates that it is not receiving enough light. Place it in a more well-lit area.
- Aerial roots are concealed by hairy stems. They occasionally develop naturally and pose little threat. However, they can indicate that your plant isn’t growing in the ideal environment. It’s possible that the soil’s roots aren’t receiving enough water. This should be avoided by giving the compost a thorough watering before letting it dry out. Watering sparingly is also ineffective because the compost needs the water to permeate deeply. On the other hand, if no perlite, sand, or grit was added to the compost before planting, they can be an indication that it isn’t free draining enough. Aerial roots may also indicate that your plant needs to be replanted or that it is rootbound and not receiving enough light.
- Rot is indicated by a brown, mushy stem and is brought on by overwatering, especially during the winter.
- As aeoniums are monocarpic, they die after flowering, thus if your plant starts to wither after flowering, this is typical. On branching variations, just the rosette that gave rise to the flower will wither away, though. The plant will continue to grow even if the flower head and rosette are removed.
- Mealybugs, which are white, fluffy blobs around 5mm in diameter, may be seen on the vegetation. Use a cotton pad dipped in organic pesticide to wipe them off.
- For plants raised in pots outside, vine weevil can be an issue. The first indication you may notice is a plant that is suddenly dying since these eat the roots covertly. Adults on the leaves and white grubs in the compost should be avoided. If you see any, get rid of right away. In late August or early September, treat with an organic nematode drench.
Advice on buying aeoniums
- Aeoniums come in a wide range of sizes, with some reaching up to 1 m by 1 m, like Aeonium arboreum. So be sure you have space for the variety you’ve chosen. It will require a lot of bright light indoors or in a sunny area outside.
- Verify that your plant has robust, meaty leaves and is not writhing awkwardly.
- Aeoniums are available at garden centers, but for the best selection, go to a store that specializes in succulents or house plants, or order online.
What kind of soil prefer aeoniums?
Soil. Since aeoniums require some moisture, a sandy loam or standard potting soil that has had its perlite content increased is preferable to a mix made especially for succulents and cacti. It could be essential to modify the soil with peat moss to increase porosity if the plants are planted in garden beds with dense soil.
Are aeoniums sun-loving plants?
- Even in the summer, when many species lay dormant and curl their leaves to conserve water, aeoniums have shallow, hair-like roots that shouldn’t be allowed to entirely dry up.
- Zones 9 to 11 are suitable for growing aeoniums outdoors, and while they can take some shade, they require at least six hours of full light each day to fully develop their leaf hues.
- in pots indoors Aeoniums thrive in shallow containers and require direct sunlight and moisture. They prefer partial moisture, but they shouldn’t be overwatered or even let to sit in water since this might make them rot.
The Greek word “aionos,” which means “immortal,” is where the name Aeonium originates. In spite of the fact that the majority of Aeonium rosettes perish after flowering, they can be easily propagated by chopping off the rosettes before they open, letting the wound heal, and then planting the new plant where it will quickly take root. Leggy branches may occasionally break off due to the weight of the rosette. Repot the broken stem, that’s all.
Can succulent cuttings be planted directly in the ground?
What is there to love other than a succulent? Obviously, a full garden of succulents! Fortunately for us, it’s simple to propagate a variety of these resilient, vibrant plants at home. We can’t wait to see succulents growing all year long in containers around the house and garden; there are various easy ways to reproduce them.
Propagating by Division: Plants that have gotten too leggy perform best with this method, which produces new succulents from cuttings. Start by delicately removing any leaves that may be attached to the stem below the rosette; be sure to preserve the leaf’s base while you do so. After all the leaves have been eliminated, cut the rosette with shears, leaving a brief stem intact. The cuttings should be let to dry in an empty tray for a few days until the raw ends have calloused. The cuttings can then be rooted in either water or soil.
Soil: Once the stems have calloused, fill a shallow tray with well-draining cactus/succulent soil and lay the cuttings on top. Within a few weeks, roots and little plants will begin to sprout from the base of the cuttings. Once the roots start to show, water sparingly once a week; take care not to overwater. The parent leaf will eventually wither; carefully remove it while taking care not to harm the young roots. Your propagated succulents can be replanted once they have established roots. As soon as the plants are established, keep them out of direct sunlight.
Water: After the stem has calloused, place a cutting with the end barely visible above the water’s surface on the lip of a glass or jar filled with water. Pick a sunny location for your glass. The incision will eventually produce roots that extend toward the water. Once roots have sprouted, your new succulent can either be replanted in succulent potting soil or allowed to remain submerged in water as illustrated above.
Offsets are little plants that develop at the base of the main specimen, and many species of succulents, such as aloe, hens and chicks, and some cacti, will generate them. Check for root growth after an offset has developed for two to three weeks before carefully twisting, cutting, or using a sharp knife to separate it from the main stem. Be cautious to prevent destroying any already-formed roots. Follow the directions above for propagating in soil or water, letting the offsets dry, establish roots, and then repot when they have had time to callus any exposed regions. Removing offsets has the added benefit of enhancing the health of your current succulents and redirecting energy into the growth of the primary plant.
What You’ll Need:
- slicing shears
- gardening mitts (for handling spiny varieties)
- a little trowel
- potting soil for cacti and succulents
- jars with sufficient drainage holes
Remove Some Leaves or Behead
Take a few leaves at random from your succulent plant, gently twisting each one off the stem without breaking it.
These can be cut off the bottom of the stem, which will be discarded, when it begins to grow lanky.
To remove a specific leaf from a plant, such as a Christmas cactus, you might need to use scissors.
If you’re “beheading,” cut the stem of the plant head cleanly with your scissors or clippers about an inch below the lower leaves.
Plant
When roots start to form, either choose a site in your garden that is ideal for planting or fill well-draining containers of your choosing with potting material.
Sunshine and well-drained soil are ideal for succulent growth. They get paler in the absence of sunlight, and they decompose in excess moisture.
When the sun is less powerful, such as in the early morning or late afternoon, plant in a sunny location.
To lift the cuttings above the edge of your container or garden surface, pile dirt higher. To stabilize the roots, gently tamp the earth down; do not water.
Water and Feed
It’s time to buy a succulent/cactus food at this stage, such as Miracle-Gro Succulent Plant Food, which is sold on Amazon. administer as directed by the manufacturer.
Succulents can also be propagated via cuttings that are placed on top of potting soil and allowed to callus off so they can root themselves in the soil.