Aeoniums are similar to perennial flowers in the garden because of their leaf heads that resemble daisies. They become flowers squared when they start to produce their own blooms.
Although it doesn’t appear sudden, it isn’t. Aeonium blooms take a long time to form; the majority begin as an upwelling of the foliage in the center, or growth point, of the head. A flower stalk eventually appears from the swelling’s top after some time, and then the numerous flowers open up.
When that happens, your garden should have flowers in bloom. Few other plants give you twice as much pleasure.
The small daisy-like flowers on many types, including “Blushing Beauty” and “Cyclops,” are arranged in a pyramidal pattern. Others bloom in a manner that our excellent friend Debra Lee Baldwin, whose books, articles, and videos feature succulents, describes as “frothy.”
Most aeoniums are monocarpic, meaning they only bloom once before dying. But not every branch of multi-branched types blooms. The Aeonium’s initial flower, those slightly rubbery leaves arranged in a floret, are still visible on the branches that didn’t bloom.
What causes my aeonium to flower?
Why is it sour and sweet? Because an Aeonium plant’s rosette dies after it flowers. Fortunately, they frequently produce pups before blossoming, so there is always a new plant to replace the mother.
The mature plant’s rosette will grow longer and eventually blossom in a stalk of little flowers grouped close together.
There are always some fresh ones ready to open, some that are still in the bud stage, and some that are completely finished because they open at different rates.
This grand finale performance can take several weeks to complete, giving you plenty of opportunity to observe the tiny starry blossoms as they open and then fade.
If many of them are in bloom at the same time, there is a considerable probability that they will cross-pollinate and produce seeds (provided that insects are around to carry out the task, of course).
You may learn more about the seed-saving procedure for other succulents here.
The flowers can take on a variety of shapes; some are made up of numerous individual blooms arranged in a sphere, while others have more conical shapes.
They appear strange amid the stony and volcanic soil of their natural home.
So, if your Aeonium plant appears to be about to bloom, take pleasure in the experience because it will be the plant’s last; hopefully, you’ll have others to take its place, such as pups or seeds.
What occurs after an aeonium blooms?
The fact that the majority of aeoniums are monocarpic plants—meaning they die after flowering—is not a great secret. Since not all aeoniums are monocarpic, I say “most.” But do they truly pass away once they flower? Yes, it is true, but there is something you can do to change it. Here’s how to prevent your aeonium from passing away once it has finished blooming.
The flower head from which the bloom stalk emerges when an aeonium blooms gradually withers away after blooming. However, there is a lovely thing that can occur to the same branch on which the bloom stalk is forming. If you remove the bloom stalk after it has finished flowering, the stump where the stalk was will begin to sprout small clusters of tiny plants rather than dying. New growth doesn’t appear overnight; it takes days, weeks, or even months.
The secret is to remove the bloom stalk once it has finished blooming. As soon as the flower stalk emerges, you are not need to start immediately. You’re not required to stop the plant from blossoming either. There is no genuine difference.
Enjoy the vivid, bright blooms and the pleasing color contrast you will get to experience when the flowers bloom. Enjoy the flowers and provide food for the bees, butterflies, and other pollinators. Depending on where you live, the flowers remain in bloom for weeks or even longer. And then chop it off once you’ve had your fill of the bloom.
After cutting, leave the stump alone and don’t give the plant any additional care. Water your plant as you normally would. And these tiny clusters of baby plants will begin to form when you’re not looking. My growth took several weeks or even months. I honestly wasn’t paying attention, so I can’t say with certainty. The stumps weren’t going to accomplish anything, so I wasn’t expecting them to.
Then, suddenly, I became aware of the growth of these young plants. The three flower stalks I removed are already growing into new aeoniums, which I’ll have soon. She is the gift that keeps on giving, isn’t she?
Even with its last dying bloom, it was still able to generate these baby plants to keep it alive for a long time after it is gone. From that one single mother plant, it had branched out and produced plenty of new plants. Isn’t mother nature absolutely wonderful?
Aeoniums replicate in what ways?
Aeoniums flourish in bright, dry environments whether they are grown indoors or outside. They perform best in exceptionally well-drained soil or in a gravel garden because they retain water in their thick, fleshy leaves and require very little water. They are suitable for coastal gardens since their foliage is wind-resistant. Grow them in pots if your garden doesn’t meet the requirements, either by themselves or alongside other bedding plants that can withstand drought, such pelargoniums. Give aeoniums a bright area where they can get some direct sunlight if you’re growing them inside.
How to plant an aeonium
When planting an aeonium, good drainage is essential. They struggle in compost that is chilly and moist because the stem and roots rot.
The best container is made of terracotta since it is porous and lets the soil dry out between waterings. Make sure the pot has a drainage hole; it’s crucial for any extra water to be able to drain. For drainage, place a layer of 2-3 cm of gravel, grit, or crocks at the bottom of the pot. A pot the same size as the rootball should be chosen. Use a 60:40 mixture of peat-free, multipurpose compost (or a John Innes number 2) and perlite, horticultural grit, or sand to create a free-draining compost because this is crucial. A 1 cm coating of horticultural grit could be placed on top of the compost to aid in drainage and prevent stem rot.
When planting an aeonium with a flat top, like the Aeonium tabuliforme, tilt the container so that rainfall can readily flow off it outside.
Make sure your soil is free draining before planting an aeonium; sandy soil or a gravel garden are perfect.
Caring for aeoniums
Aeoniums are native to hot, dry regions that occasionally see intense downpours. If you’re growing aeoniums indoors, try to mimic this process by letting the soil completely dry out before giving it a good watering and letting any extra water drain away. This approach is superior to watering sparingly but frequently. Reduce watering in summer and winter because aeoniums are actively growing in the fall and spring.
Rainfall should provide your aeoniums with all the water they require if you’re keeping them outside, whether in a garden or a pot.
From winter through late spring, you can feed your aeonium once a month with a half-strength plant food.
As long as their compost is not damp, aeoniums can tolerate cold winter temperatures as long as the temperature does not fall below 5C. However, they cannot tolerate frost.
How to propagate aeoniums
Aeoniums are easily multiplied by taking cuttings, which will root in a few weeks. In the spring, take cuttings. Choose tender, fresh shoots for proliferation. Compared to older, thicker shoots, these will root more readily and have greater vigor.
Cut healthy shoots with stems that are about 10 cm long. Hold the stem in your palm to steady it and cut it off flush with the main stem so you don’t leave a snag. To make an accurate cut, use sharp secateurs.
Once the wound has calloused, turn the cuttings on their side and keep them somewhere dry and warm for a few days (see cutting on left of picture). This will lessen the possibility that the cutting may subsequently develop rot.
Insert cuttings into grit- and soil-based potting compost that is 5 cm or 8 cm deep into the pots. Make sure that at least half of the stem is above compost level and firm the compost at the cutting’s base.
After lightly wetting each cutting, add a 1 cm layer of crushed grit or perlite to the compost surface. Shake the pot to create a flat surface. This layer enhances drainage, keeping the stem dry.
Keep your cuttings indoors, in a well-lit area like a sunny windowsill, at a temperature of 18–20°C while keeping them uncovered. Make sure not to water straight onto the leaves as you water your cuttings sparingly until they have rooted. Always strive to keep the compost just barely damp.
Growing aeoniums: problem solving
- The most frequent cause of aeonium issues is overwatering. Aeoniums are native to hot, dry climates, and they look their best when your home or garden mimics these conditions.
- The cause of washed-out, pale foliage may be excessive irrigation. Reduce watering and wait till the compost is totally dry before watering it again. If you’re cultivating an aeonium as a house plant, you could also discover that taking it outside in the summer will bring back its brilliant color.
- In the summer, it’s typical to see a closed-up rosette with dried leaves around the edge that are falling off. When it’s hot, aeoniums go dormant.
- A stretched-out, leggy plant indicates that it is not receiving enough light. Place it in a more well-lit area.
- Aerial roots are concealed by hairy stems. They occasionally develop naturally and pose little threat. However, they can indicate that your plant isn’t growing in the ideal environment. It’s possible that the soil’s roots aren’t receiving enough water. This should be avoided by giving the compost a thorough watering before letting it dry out. Watering sparingly is also ineffective because the compost needs the water to permeate deeply. On the other hand, if no perlite, sand, or grit was added to the compost before planting, they can be an indication that it isn’t free draining enough. Aerial roots may also indicate that your plant needs to be replanted or that it is rootbound and not receiving enough light.
- Rot is indicated by a brown, mushy stem and is brought on by overwatering, especially during the winter.
- As aeoniums are monocarpic, they die after flowering, thus if your plant starts to wither after flowering, this is typical. On branching variations, just the rosette that gave rise to the flower will wither away, though. The plant will continue to grow even if the flower head and rosette are removed.
- Mealybugs, which are white, fluffy blobs about 5mm in diameter, may be seen on the foliage. Use a cotton pad dipped in organic pesticide to wipe them off.
- For plants raised in pots outside, vine weevil can be an issue. These devour the roots unnoticed and the first clue you may see is a plant that is strangely withering. Adults on the leaves and white grubs in the compost should be avoided. If you see any, get rid of right away. In late August or early September, treat with an organic nematode drench.
Advice on buying aeoniums
- Aeoniums come in a wide range of sizes, with some reaching up to 1 m by 1 m, like Aeonium arboreum. So be sure you have space for the variety you’ve chosen. It will require a lot of bright light indoors or in a sunny area outside.
- Verify that your plant has robust, meaty leaves and is not writhing awkwardly.
- Aeoniums are available at garden centers, but for the best selection, go to a store that specializes in succulents or house plants, or order online.
Are there death blooms on aeoniums?
Some succulent genera have many or all of their species that are monocarpic. Aeonium, Agave, Orostachys, and Sempervivum are genera in which the majority or all species produce a death bloom. Genera having monocarpic species include Kalanchoe, Crassula, and Sedum.
Almost all Sempervivum are monocarpic, however from experience, it takes a rosette a few years before it produces a death bloom. One withering rosettes won’t have much of an impact because by the time the death bloom occurs, the clump has many offsets.
We grow a wide range of succulents at the nursery, but in my ten years of growing them, I have only ever encountered a few Sempervivum death blooms.
Similar to Sempervivum, all Aeonium are monocarpic, and the death flowers appear after the plant has grown for a few years.
Some types of agave are monocarpic, however the death bloom process might take up to 20 years.
Many other species are capable of death blooms. Some species-specific events occur on an annual basis, whereas others may only occur once and resemble rare mutations in other plants of the same species.
Why is a blossom appearing on my succulent?
Keep a look out for aphids crawling around your bloom stem or flower as it grows. They are especially drawn to this variety of fresh growth. They should be sprayed with a horticultural soap or a product containing 50 to 70 percent alcohol. For this reason, some succulent growers remove the stalk now.
If your interesting bloom prompts you to take extra precautions, adhere to some or all of the advice below:
The more sunshine you can gradually supply will hasten the flower’s bloom because succulent and cacti flowers enjoy it. Although certain succulent plants can withstand excessive heat, be careful when the temperature is in the high 80s or 90s. It is always best to get to know your succulent plant and learn specifics about its bloom and preferred level of heat. High heat is not necessarily a problem because the majority of the plants in this group bloom in late spring to early summer. Dry areas have longer-lasting blooms in general.
If feasible, start increasing the amount of sun your plant receives every day when you notice a bloom stalk or flower emerging on it. Add more gradually until it spends the entire day in the sun. Find the brightest, sunniest window in your home if you’re growing plants there. Set them up there. Make sure to watch out for burning leaves and pads.
According to some professional advice, flowering succulent care entails additional watering and fertilizing. When you water, soak the blossoming succulent plant. When the top two inches (5 cm) of soil are dry, rewater the area. With until the blossoms start to fade, keep up this watering routine.
Increase your fertilization to once a month from once per season. Use a fertilizer with a high phosphorus content—the middle number on the fertilizer ratio scale. Additionally, instead of increasing feeding by a quarter, increase it by a half. Continue feeding the blossom until it starts to wither.
These are all possible maintenance advice that can lengthen the vase life and advance flower blooming. Alternately, you might ignore the blooming plant and let nature take its course. Flowers can occasionally thrive on neglect, much as these intriguing plants can.
Gather fading blossoms and put them in a small paper bag if you wish to try producing more plants from seed. Tiny seeds are present in dried flowers.