There are plenty of lovely succulent plants for zone 6 available to northern gardeners. A few examples of hardy succulents for zone 6 are as follows: Autumn Joy Sedum Large pink blooms, grayish-green leaves that become bronze in the fall. Acre of sedum a sedum ground cover with flowers that are a vibrant yellow-green.
In what zone can cacti grow?
Cacti are so distinctive from other garden plants that I’ve long had a fondness for them. But the sorts I could really cultivate were quite limited because I didn’t reside in Arizona. For many years, I exclusively grew several prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) varieties, which are attractive and many of them are well-adapted to cold conditions, but they also have microscopic hairs called glochids that, if touched, embed themselves in your skin. Not my all-time favorite thing.
Because of this, I now cultivate Echinocereus cacti. They are both highly attractive AND cold hardy, and they are spiky yet don’t have the horrible little glochids. Zones 5 or 4 are home to a large number of species. I discovered that providing them with ideal drainage is the key to keeping them alive. They are not killed by cold winters, but they will decay in cold, wet winters. They grow quite well in containers that I relocate for the winter beneath the eaves of the house (and out of the rain) or in raised beds that are filled with sand and gravel.
Purple cup cactus (Echinocereus triglochidiatus, Zone 59). Although my plant of this is currently quite small, one day it will resemble this amazing example from the Denver Botanic Gardens! Aren’t those blooms amazing?
Hedghog cactus with spines (Echinocereus dasyacanthus, Zone 69). Not quite as resilient to cold as the claret cup cactus, but equally stunning in yellow. Another one of my favorites is this.
Hedgehog lace cactus (Echinocereus reichenbachii, Zone 59). Huge magenta blossoms of this plant are so vivid that they almost seem to shine.
The lacy hedgehog cactus is also lovely without flowers. There is a lot of variation in the species’ spine color and shape, and this attractive version has particularly dark spines.
Cold-tolerant cacti often have a melancholy appearance in the winter because they drain most of the water from their stems to protect themselves from harm from the cold, which causes them to shrivel and resemble wrinkled old sacks. However, they pick back up in the spring and continue to flourish.
Succulents may be grown in what climate zones?
A wide variety of succulents that are less tolerant of low conditions than “hardy succulents” are referred to as “soft succulents” (also known as “sensitive succulents”). Although certain plants in the category can be grown down to USDA Zone 7, we generally classify species designated USDA Zone 9 (20 to 30 F) and above as Soft Succulents (0 to 10 F). In locations without frost (USDA Zone 10+), all soft succulents can be cultivated outdoors. They can be cultivated in containers and brought indoors for the winter in colder climates.
The degree of hardiness varies greatly amongst the various varieties. Most Soft Succulents, including several Echeveria, have rosettes of thick, fleshy leaves that are somewhat hardy to at least the mid-20s F. Soft succulents with smaller individual leaves, like the majority of Kalanchoe, may endure temperatures below freezing for a short period of time, but when the temperature reaches the mid-20s F, they die from the roots up. Due to their moderate hardiness, they can survive outdoors in places that only sometimes see mild frost (such as many coastal areas) and in well-protected areas in colder climates.
The Effects of Temperature on Succulents and Cacti
Succulents and cacti prefer to reside in the “sweet spot” of temperature, just as is the case with sunlight exposure. These hardy plants can suffer irreparable harm from either extreme of the temperature range, so it’s important to monitor their health and adjust the environment as necessary.
Succulents and cacti thrive most effectively in temperatures between 40 and 80 °F. Outside of this range, little temperature swings are tolerated, but swings of five or more can result in permanent harm. Even more intriguing is the fact that temperatures that are on the edge of the bearable range (about 40°F or 80°F) can operate as “stressors,” positively affecting the plant and encouraging the expression of more vivid hues.
Succulents and cacti should ideally be kept above freezing during the winter to prevent frost damage. While more tropical types like euphorbia and lithops demand minimum temperatures of 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit, other cultivars are actually frost hardy and prefer cooler overnight temperatures of 30 to 40 degrees. Searching for “ideal temperature for insert plant name here” on Google is currently the quickest approach to find out what temps are optimal for your plants. Each plant product page will eventually feature our own documentation.
Extreme Cold and Extreme Hot
Succulents and cactus can, you guessed it, freeze when exposed to freezing or below-zero weather! The water that has frozen inside the plant’s cells expands as it thaws, killing the cells by rupturing them. When the plant finally thaws out, the damaged regions will start to decay or scar permanently—a symptom that could take a few days to manifest. To stop the rot from spreading, the best course of action in this circumstance is to remove the afflicted region with a clean razor blade.
It is preferable to relocate your collection under a patio cover or inside of your home while the freezing conditions last in order to prevent damage from frost and freezing temperatures temporarily. A “frost blanket,” which is just a thin piece of fabric designed to protect plants from cold, can also be used to cover your plants. Plants should be taken indoors for the winter or placed in a sunroom or greenhouse with plenty of natural light in regions of the country where cold temperatures last for months at a time (essentially everywhere else save California).
However, heated temperatures can also do harm if they are not controlled, so they are not the only bad guys in this tale. A variety of things can happen to your plants when it becomes too hot (90 degrees Fahrenheit and above), especially when combined with full sun exposure. For example, leaves may shrivel and/or burn, water inside plant cells may steam and explode, and root systems may become fried.
Because soil is not a very good conductor of heat or cold, succulents planted in the ground with developed root systems can withstand high heat and cold more better than those planted in containers. On the other hand, containers easily conduct heat and cold, focusing such extremes on the roots of the plants.
There are always exceptions to the norm, just like there are in everything else in life. Succulents can withstand temperatures well below freezing and temps as high as 100 degrees. Drive about and observe what sorts of succulents your neighbors are successfully cultivating to find out what varieties work best in your specific climate.
Moisture and Extreme Temperatures = Bad News
One of the most problematic combinations of environmental conditions is extreme temperatures and moisture. You should never put your plants in a situation where they are both hot and damp or cold and wet. Whether in the ground or in containers, plants that are grown in dry soil perform far better than those that are not. The water in the soil might start to steam in exceptionally hot weather, thus “cooking” your plants. Water can obviously freeze in freezing or subfreezing temperatures, harming the root system and producing rot. If you absolutely must water your plants when extremely high temperatures are predicted, try to do so as early as possible, ideally before 7 a.m.
The TLDR (too long, didn’t read) Summary
Average temperatures are much preferable to harsh ones for succulents. Frost damage can occur in cold conditions, whereas scorching and atrophy can occur in hot temperatures. Paying attention to what your plants are saying is the simplest method to make sure they are content. Bring them indoors or wrap them in a frost blanket if they are suffering from frost damage. Move them to a sheltered spot or cover them with shade cloth if they are scorching or wilting.
Can succulents endure cold conditions?
Yes, it is the answer. Although certain succulents can withstand frost, they are frequently thought of as drought-tolerant plants. They flourish in chilly, snowy conditions, and the extreme cold even brings out their magnificent, vivid colors. They are referred to as “Hard Succulents.” Sempervivum, Sedum, and Euphorbias genera contain some of the most hardy succulents. You may plant such succulents outside all year round because the majority of them can withstand temperatures as low as -20F (Hardiness Zone 5).
“Soft Succulents” are another group of succulents that are more susceptible to frost. When the weather drops below freezing, they must be winterized inside.
Which kind of succulents are cold-sensitive?
“Frost tender” succulents may experience variable degrees of damage, depending on how long the temperature is below freezing (32 degrees F). A sensitive plant’s cells expand, burst, and transform its leaves to mush when liquid inside them freezes. In a “light frost,” only the tips of the leaves may be harmed (“frost burn”). A “hard frost” is characterized by sustained temperatures below freezing, which can cause entire plants to die. Typically, succulents do not recover from roots.
Ones that are among the most fragile succulents include crassulas, aeoniums, euphorbias, and kalanchoes. Some succulents, in particular, have an inbuilt antifreeze that allows them to endure temperatures considerably below 32 degrees Fahrenheit—in fact, below zero.
Are your outdoor succulents at risk over the winter? Depending on where you reside, Please refer to “Cold Weather Care for Outdoor Succulents, By Region.”
Your area is frost-free (lucky you!) if…
This soft-leaved agave in my garden is the canary in the mineshaft when it comes to cold. Many succulents may survive a brief cold (less than an hour), but Agave attenuata’s leaf tips immediately reveal damage.
Although ugly, this damage rarely results in death. See how each leaf’s healthy green portion is? Cut each leaf to a point using scissors to remove the tissue-paper-like frozen tips. The harm won’t be very evident when you’re finished. Those shorter, clipped leaves will be buried by new growth during the summer. (Note: Such damage is comparable to scorching brought on by excessive sun and heat, which is common of desert conditions, and by wildfire, which, believe it or not, does occur.)
What about a succulent or agave that only suffers damage from frost on the tips of its leaves? Don’t even try trimming them. In a few months, it will shed those oldest leaves nevertheless.
areas with sporadic, light frosts (like Southern California’s interior):
If there is a “frost advisory” for your area, keep an eye on the weather forecast, and before it gets dark, go outdoors and cover your sensitive succulents. After midnight, frost is more common, and temperatures increase colder as dawn approaches. Warm air is lighter than cold air, which travels down hills and gathers in low areas. Succulents in swales are therefore more vulnerable than those on top of berms. You may have heard that Christmas lights slightly increase the temperature. Yes, if they are the traditional variety. LEDs in current use don’t produce heat. You should be concerned about succulents that are exposed to the elements and have nothing over them. I occasionally lean over a succulent and look up. It becomes draped if there aren’t any tree limbs or eaves directly above.
I reside at 1,500 feet in the foothills NE of San Diego (Zone 9b). And yes, after seeing the weather forecast on the late-night news, I have been outside at 11 p.m. in my pajamas and slippers, freezing while I place blankets on delicate plants while my husband holds a flashlight. I may leave the plants covered if several nights of frost are expected; otherwise, I take the sheets off the next morning. I fasten them with clothes pins and rocks to make sure they won’t blow off. AVOID using plastic. The plants are unable to breathe because of it.
In my yard, jades and other delicate succulents are covered in frost cloth. WATCH THE VIDEO
Why cold damages some succulents and not others
The origin of a certain plant type affects it greatly. Most succulents are native to dry, hot areas where they can store water in their leaves to survive drought. The ones that don’t freeze, however, are from dry, cold climates. See my essay, Showy Succulents for Snowy Climates, in the Wall Street Journal. The “hardies” include:
several species and cultivars of sempervivums (hens-and-chicks, above); some cactus, yuccas, and agaves (such as Agave utahensis, A. montana, and A. parryi); and lewisias from the Pacific Northwest.
Which succulents can withstand the cold?
Not only warm climes are suitable for a succulent garden outside! Check out what you can accomplish with succulents planted in the ground in four-season regions.
We may receive a commission when you buy something after clicking on one of our links, at no additional cost to you. This enables us to offer you free content.
In contrast to southern California’s sunny environment, where there are many beautiful succulent gardens, Utah’s four-season climate makes it more difficult to find outdoor succulent gardens.
The two main types of succulents that can withstand freezing temperatures are Stonecrop Sedums and Sempervivums, also known as hens and chicks. Most animals can survive at temperatures as low as –20 °F.
In order to maintain a stunning outdoor succulent garden year-round, even when there is snow on the ground, I have been developing a variety of arrangements using only cold-hardy succulents.
You’ll see affiliate connections to Mountain Crest Gardens for the many succulents I utilized for these projects all throughout this post.
I received a lot of succulents for free, but my favorite succulents are from Mountain Crest, and I wholeheartedly suggest them to everyone! Nowhere else will you find a finer collection of resilient succulents.
In the movies below, you’ll see a wide variety of succulent collections and items, but I wanted to make it simple for you to see them all at once, so here is a list of the things I used to produce these succulent landscapes: