In fact, the Joshua tree is also known as the yucca palm, and Palmdale, which is home to a plethora of yucca palms, was named after it.
A pollinating moth has a unique and mutually beneficial interaction with Yucca trees.
The yucca pollen grains are transferred to stigmas (female flower parts), where the moth deposits its eggs. Just as yucca seeds begin to mature, larvae of the yucca moth emerge from these eggs. The larvae feed on the seeds, leaving some behind to help another generation of yuccas grow and provide food for future generations of yucca moths.
Yuccas are related to agaves and exist in similar environments, with the exception that yuccas are more cold tolerant than agaves and, unlike agaves, nearly all yucca species do not die after flowering, lasting for more than 100 years when correctly located.
The yucca plant is found across the United States, with some species native to the Midwest and Southeast.
Although native to Central America, the huge yucca is the most popular yucca in Southern California (Yucca elephantipes). It can reach a height of up to 30 feet in a short amount of time.
The leaves of the lanceolate plant are velvety and luscious green. Giant yucca can tolerate almost full light in Ventura and coastal areas, but in our interior valleys, it prefers half-day exposure and will be damaged by harsh afternoon rays.
The Spanish bayonet (Yucca aloifolia) is known for its towering vertical inflorescences, which can reach a height of 2 feet this time of year. Because its leaves are extremely pointed, it should not be planted near entrances or walkways, as its name suggests. It’s a slow-growing shrub that reaches a height of around 10 feet.
The banana yucca (Yucca baccata) generates intriguing fibers as well as tasty 6-inch fruits that are frost resistant. Yucca linearifolia (to 4 feet tall) and Yucca rostrata (to 10 feet tall) are beautiful, slow-growing tiny trees with extremely thin leaves that form enormous bunches on the ends of thatched trunks, giving them the appearance of palm trees from a distance.
All of the yuccas mentioned above are native to the Southwest or Mexico, are drought tolerant, and can thrive in full to half-day sun.
Take 3- to 6-inch stem cuttings topped with leaves this time of year, detach all but the most upper leaves, lay them on their sides in the shade for a few days, and then plant them in fast-draining soil in 6-inch (1 gallon) containers. Within a month, if placed in dappled sunshine and watered enough to keep the soil moist, roots should begin to grow.
If your yucca produces seeds, you’ll need to scarify them by rubbing them on sandpaper before putting them in a cactus soil mix at a depth equivalent to the seeds’ length. Place in partial light with a layer of compost on top. Within two weeks, the seeds should sprout.
“I have a tangerine tree that has produced abundantly since I planted it around 10 years ago,” RoseMarie Walker, who gardens in Granada Hills, wrote in an email.
every year for several months, I provided friends and neighbors. Everything is incredibly delicious and seedless.
“It’s almost barren this year.” Despite the abundance of blossoms, I can immediately count the limited number of tangerines it contains. So, what happened?
“I had it trimmed last fall.” “Could that be the issue, or is it infected?” “Could it be too much rain, or is it infected?”
The fact that you received your regular flower harvest but very little fruit suggests a variety of possibilities. The severe rain, as you say, may have played a role in your meager yield. Certain minerals, such as calcium and boron, that play a role in keeping flowers and fruit attached to their stems, would have leached or flowed through the soil as a result of the rain.
It’s also possible that your tree merely needs a break after ten years of intense fruiting, especially because some tangerine kinds are noted for alternate bearing, which means they produce huge crops every other year.
Also, as you indicate, it’s possible that the rain triggered a fungus infection in your flowers, contaminating them and causing them to fall off before fruit could grow.
It’s a good idea to fertilize your tangerine tree according to the instructions on the bag of specially designed “citrus food” that you can get at any nursery or garden center.
By the way, the word tangerine derives from Tangier, a place on Morocco’s northern edge near the Straits of Gibraltar, straight across from Spain, where a unique mandarin variety that would become known as tangerine was produced.
The first tangerines were exported to the United States from Tangier in 1842, arriving at Palatka, Florida. From there, their popularity skyrocketed.
“Why do I keep reading that hellebores don’t grow here?” wrote Joan Stevens in an email. In Pasadena, I live in zone 10A. I think hellebores are gorgeous, and I’d like to plant some of the brightly colored kinds. Is it worthwhile to try, in your opinion?”
Yes, hellebores thrive in our climate. For many years, I’ve had a clump of cream-colored hellebores growing in a mostly shady position. Flowering in late winter and early spring, with chalice-shaped flowers swaying softly above blue-gray foliage, this is undoubtedly a seasonal delight.
When the temperature warms up, the foliage dries up and vanishes, yet the plant reappears every winter.
Over the last two decades, there has been a lot of hellebore hybridization, and as you mentioned, there are numerous flower colors available, including yellow, red, violet, and blackish purple. Hellebores are virtually nonexistent from the nursery trade in our area, but are widely available through internet merchants.
Plant them among other shade-loving perennials like Japanese anemone, cyclamen, and clivia.
How long can a yucca plant live?
We noted before that yucca plants can take years to grow, so that must mean they can live for at least a few years, right?
Right! Yucca plants can live for a very long time. You should expect your yucca houseplant to last for roughly five years, but yucca trees can live for considerably longer. They keep going because of their adaptability and capacity to survive with little water and a lot of sunlight. Add in the fact that yuccas can be propagated, and you’ll be able to admire them for a long time.
A yucca plant can die or develop root rot if it is overwatered. So, how much is required? To learn more, read “How Much Water Does A Yucca Plant Need?” on our other blog.
Height/Spread:
Depending on the type. Smaller trees can grow to be 2 to 4 feet tall and wide, while larger trees can grow to be 30 feet tall and 25 feet wide with offsets. Allowing offsets to grow can result in clumps that are several times the size of the individual plant.
Bloom time:
Depending on the type, some will bloom in the spring and others in the mid-to-late summer. Polycarpic perennials are perennials that bloom every year for the rest of their lives. Monocarpic variants, such as Hesperoyucca whipplei (syn. Yucca whipplei), blossom once and then slowly decline and die, much like their close relatives, Agave spp.
Color and characteristics:
Leaves are usually long and narrow, sword-shaped, spine-tipped, and grouped in rosettes; they can be thick or thin. Some plants have razor-sharp foliage. Flowers bloom on huge stalks that arise from the plant’s core, some reaching a height of over 10 feet. Flowers are often white or cream in color, with a tinge of pink, purple, or green in some kinds.
Toxicity:
Animals (and people) are generally scared off by the spiky and thorny nature of some yuccas. They can, however, be moderately poisonous to cats, dogs, and humans if consumed.
Yucca vs. yuca:
Yuccas are not related to yucas (one ‘c’), despite the fact that they are frequently mistaken. Yuca, often known as cassava, is a plant containing edible, starchy tubers/roots that are used to make tapioca and cassava flour. The yucca plant’s roots are not edible.
How do you know if a yucca is dying?
Too much fertilizer is a lot more common concern than too little fertilizer when it comes to Yucca plant death. Because yuccas have moderate growth patterns and don’t require a lot of fertilizer, problems caused by overfertilization are considerably more common.
Fertilize your yucca plant only a few times a year, if at all. The finest fertilizer is one that is balanced. I propose using a water-soluble or liquid fertilizer that is half the strength advised. During the growing season, fertilizing every 2-3 months should be more than enough.
Excess fertilizer application will result in fertilizer burns and a sickly plant. Keep an eye out for the following indicators that your yucca plant is dying as a result of too much fertilizer:
Precaution is the best defense against this. Make sure your plant doesn’t get too much fertilizer. If you suspect that over-fertilizing is the cause of your Yucca plant’s death, thoroughly wet the soil. This aids in the removal of excess fertilizer salts from the soil. Avoid repotting a stressed plant, since this might cause the plant to become even more stressed.
More information on how to properly fertilize houseplants may be found in my fertilizing houseplants guide.
Transplant Stress
Transplant stress or shock, which causes an abrupt change in the plant’s growing environment, could be the cause of your yucca plant’s death. Some of the roots may die in this condition, and the yucca will be unable to support itself. When this happens, you may notice the plant begins to droop, stop growing, and generally appear miserable.
In this circumstance, you should always ensure that your yucca is properly transplanted or repotted. Choose a pot that is the right size for your yucca, allowing the roots to develop large enough to support the plant. This procedure should be tailored to the requirements of your particular yucca plant.
Pests
The yucca plant is a low-maintenance plant that, fortunately, does not suffer from pest problems. Pests don’t bother this plant very often, and when they do, they’re usually easy to remove. A slight danger of your yucca succumbing to a pest infestation exists, although it is unlikely.
- Aphids: Aphids are known to consume the leaves of yucca plants. You can either clean them off with water or use insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on them once a week until they are under control.
- Mealybugs leave waxy markings on your yucca plant, which can be identified by their white filmy look. Treatments such as rubbing alcohol, horticultural oil, or insecticidal soap are effective.
- Scale: Scale are hard-shelled pests that may wreak havoc on your yucca’s foliage. They resemble firm lumps. These can be removed by hand or effectively treated with rubbing alcohol, neem oil, or horticultural oil.
Overall, you shouldn’t have too many pest problems with your yucca, but it’s something to keep an eye out for.
What kills yucca plants?
In addition to digging up yucca plants, some individuals prefer to chop them down and soak them in herbicide beforehand. To begin, use a saw or pruning shears to remove any foliage and side branches. Note: To avoid unpleasant pricks from the needle-sharp leaves, wear gloves and protective clothing.
Then chop the main trunk down to about a foot (31 cm.) from the ground with an axe or saw. Around the base, drill a succession of 1 to 2 inch (2.5-5 cm) holes. Fill the holes with stump remover or herbicide. This will spread throughout the root system, killing the yucca plant, which can then be dug up and removed from the area.
While getting rid of yucca plants may take numerous efforts, the yucca roots will eventually weaken and die. Patience and vigilance will pay off in the end.
Chemical management should be utilized only as a last resort because organic methods are more environmentally friendly.
Cultivation
Yuccas like a strongly lit location, ideally one with a south-facing or west-facing aspect, but they will grow in less well-lit settings as well. In the summer, you can transfer them outside to a warm, sunny patio, but remember to bring them back inside before the weather turns cold in early autumn.
Do yuccas flower every year?
Yuccas are prehistoric spiky plants that thrive in desert environments. Their unusual shape is a great complement to a southwestern or quirky garden. When grown, this wonderful plant produces a blossom once a season if you’re lucky, but more likely once every few years. The bloom lasts a few weeks before becoming ragged and dying.
It’s thought that cutting yucca flower stalks after they die can encourage them to bloom again. Is it necessary to remove wasted yucca flowers? If you have any questions about how to care for your yucca after it has bloomed, keep reading for some solutions.
Are yucca plants good?
Yucca has a lot of vitamin C and antioxidants, which are good for your immune system and overall health. White blood cells, which fight diseases and viruses, are stimulated by vitamin C.
Should I cut the dead leaves off my yucca?
The leaves of a yucca tree usually stay attached after they die and turn brown. Spended leaves may tuck or fold towards the trunk of some yucca trees, while leaves on others can give the tree a shaggy, unkempt appearance. According to Arizona State University, it is often possible to remove old leaves from the trunk by gently dragging each leaf downward. Cut the leaves back to near the trunk if necessary. Removing the dead foliage can expose a yucca’s unconditioned trunk to direct sunlight and increased temperature changes, straining the plant unnecessarily.
How do you bring a yucca back to life?
Give it lots of exposure to the sun. The most prevalent cause of a Yucca plant’s waning is a lack of sunshine. The Yucca plant is native to southern Mexico and necessitates direct sunlight to thrive. Place the plant 3 to 5 feet away from a window that gets plenty of light, and it should start to bounce back. Keeping this plant in a low-light environment can encourage rot, which these plants are prone to.