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Ah, the ficus lyrata/pandurata, or fiddle leaf fig. It is the most popular plant on Instagram, a top pick for many interior designers, and a seductive siren for novice plant parents. They may not be as patient as the equally well-known rubber plant on Instagram, but a little extra care, adequate drainage, decent lighting, and attention to detail can go a long way.
These lovely floral plants are native to West Africa’s tropical regions, yet they are now found living under many roofs all over the world. Why the peculiar name? It may help to know that fiddle leaf figs often flower and produce fruit in the wild, which is uncommon when they are cultivated inside, if you’ve been wondering why it’s called a fig without any fruit.
Fiddle leaf figs are adaptable to almost any decor theme, and whether they are genuine or fake, they add a lavish splash of foliage that resembles a tree. They’re not the easiest plants to care for, despite their undeniable beauty, but devoted plant parents can make them happy with care, patience, and the perfect placement. If one has made its way into your house, we have a ton of advice and information to help it have a happy life.
Fiddle leaf figs can bloom.
A fiddle leaf fig hardly ever blooms or bears fruit away from its natural habitat. However, we’ve provided a picture of the fruit’s appearance (right). Instead of their ability to produce fruit, most owners appreciate these houseplants for their foliage and size.
Do fiddle leaf figs always grow into trees?
The most frequent inquiry I have from readers is how to transform a fiddle leaf fig from bush to tree form ever since I published the article Growing and Pruning Your Fiddle Leaf Fig. This article will cover the topic in more detail and, hopefully, provide all the information you need.
I’ve studied and read about fiddle leaf figs for years, as well as grown and experimented with my own. I’m pleased to impart what I’ve discovered, especially given the prevalence of false information.
Will my FLF bush develop into a tree? Yes, it is the answer. FLFs are so adaptable that they can grow to be bushy or be trained to resemble a tree. Making sure that your FLF turns out to look like a tree depends on a few different aspects. First of all, have patience—growing a tree takes time! You might have discovered a smaller, bushier FLF to bring home. Younger, smaller plants are less expensive and less risky to purchase if you’re unsure of your ability to care for them. If it doesn’t stay in your house, the risk is reduced. I occasionally like to bring home smaller plants because you can then explore and mould the plant to your preferences.
Fiddle Leaf Figs have three primary characteristics that distinguish them from bushes: height, one naked trunk, and branches. So let’s examine each one separately:
Height
Fiddle Leaf Figs don’t develop as quickly as other plants, but you can hasten their growth by giving them the correct environment. Three things affect growth: light, soil, and water. It could take some time before you fully comprehend what your FLF wants. Keep a watch on it to see how it reacts to changes in the amount of water and light that it requires. For maximum growth, FLFs require well-draining soil and a decent fertilizer (this one is ideal for FLFs). If you’ve never used fertilizer before, read these suggestions first. Change anything if your FLF isn’t responding well to what you’re doing. To get it right, a little trial and error might be necessary. See my post on growing and trimming your Fiddle Leaf Fig for additional general advice.
Branches
When your FLF reaches the height at which you would like it to branch, you can trim, pinch out, or try notching the tip to promote branching. The plant is informed by pruning the tip that its primary growth tip has been impeded and that it must produce additional shoots in order to survive. If you have a clear concept of where you want a branch to develop, you might want to employ notching, which has a similar effect.
It might seem intimidating to notch a fiddle leaf fig, but it shouldn’t be. If your FLF has a thinner trunk, use a pair of clean, sharp cutters or a razor. Cut the trunk at an angle, about 1/3 deep and halfway across. Above a leaf node, carry out this. Some milky white sap will drip if you’ve done it correctly. Go over the same area once more if the bud below shows no signs of change within a week.
Similar to trimming undesired branches, only be mindful of the impact it will have on the plant and avoid leaving it too bare.
Trunk
The internet is replete of amusing images of the tree-form FLF with a naked, waif-like trunk, in contrast to the bush-form FLF, which typically has its trunk covered in leaves. The lower leaves may naturally fall off after a few years. If you can’t wait that long, pulling off the lower leaves will give you a bare trunk faster, but they won’t grow back. As a final resort, be prepared to prune these leaves. (Of these three parts, the trunk should receive the most attention.)
Because trees are top-heavy and more prone to bending or toppling, the lower leaves support the trunk and aid in its strength development. Be careful to avoid stripping your FLF of too many leaves at once. Your plant’s chances of being unwell or dying increase if there aren’t enough leaves for it to absorb the nutrients it requires from sunshine. To learn how to strengthen a weak or leaning trunk, read my complete advice here.
Multiple trunks: It’s possible that your FLF is actually more than one plant if it appears to have more than one trunk in its container. Try to determine whether they are connected (via a low fork) or if they are independent trunks. When repotting, you should be able to tell if they are distinct or even if you’re not sure. Replant the roots after carefully separating them in several pots.
By following the above instructions, your FLF should eventually start to resemble a tree. Being able to handle this process on your own is enjoyable and really rewarding! Additionally, I’ve discovered that it has given me more information on how to care for them, and I now feel certain that I could get FLF of any size and shape surviving!
Repotting, trimming, and fertilizing should all be done during a FLF’s natural growth seasons of spring and summer to give the plant the most chance to adapt to the changes and respond in a positive way. For more information on fiddle leaf figs, see these posts.
Do you still have concerns about growing a fiddle leaf fig from a bush to a tree? If this was useful or if you have any other questions, please let me know in the comments!
How frequently do fiddle leaf fig leaves reappear?
Fiddle Leaf Figs are infamously difficult to grow. There are a few typical maladies of this plant, like brown spots and leaf drop, that can make it sick or, worse, fast bring about its demise. The secret to keeping your plant happy and healthy is to keep an eye out for them and catch them early. Keep an eye out for these indications of a possibly sick fiddle leaf fig.
Brown spots on the leaves
The leaves of fiddle leaf figs are incredibly prone to browning. Brown spots that start to form and spread should be investigated even though a few small markings here and there are not a cause for concern.
Due to two opposing factors—either overwatering or underwatering—most brown patches on fiddles are unfortunately difficult to diagnose. Here’s how to distinguish between them:
Overwatering, which results in root rot, is probably to blame for brown patches that appear in the center of the leaf and spread outward. A fungal illness called root rot will eventually kill your plant by spreading to the leaves. You should repot your plant as soon as possible if it has root rot. Take the plant out of the ground, wash the roots thoroughly, and cut off any that are brown or mushy. After that, repot the plant in new soil with adequate drainage and remove the damaged leaves.
Are the brown spots on your fiddle beginning at the outside border of the leaves and moving inside? The plant is probably too dry for this to be the cause. Give your Fiddle a thorough rinse, and make sure it’s not too close to any heaters or air vents because that will likely cause the plant to dry out more quickly than is desired.
Finally, trauma may cause brown spots to form at random. A plant can suffer trauma just by changing homes (i.e. changing environments). If only one or two of your plant’s brown, damaged leaves are present, remove them at the stem and give your plant some time to heal.
The new growth is smaller than the older leaves
A healthy plant always shows new development, and if your Fiddle’s leaves are getting big and strong, your plant is doing fine.
The presence of little, stunted new leaves, however, may indicate that your plant is deficient in nutrients. Consider repotting your plant if it has been a while since you gave it fresh soil, or just fertilize it in the spring and summer to give it the extra nutrients it requires.
Dropping leaves
Fiddle Leaf Figs can appear to drop their leaves out of nowhere. One leaf here and there is normal; but, if several leaves have fallen off in a short period of time, you must act quickly to rescue the tree. Once more, underwatering or overwatering are the most likely causes of leaf drop in fiddle leaf figs. How then can you distinguish between them? Look at the direction in which the leaves are falling from the plant: if the older leaves (at the bottom) are dropping first, overwatering is probably the cause. On the other hand, if the plant’s leaves are falling off all around, it’s probably not getting enough water. Here are a few more techniques for differentiating.
Leaves turning yellow
Do your fiddle leaf fig’s leaves appear to be yellow? There are several potential reasons:
inadequate lighting Fiddle Leaf Figs require as much direct, strong light as they can get. Even a little direct sunshine is acceptable, but stay away from locations with medium or low light. Remember that a Fiddle that receives insufficient light is more likely to overwater.
a lackluster diet. Due to a deficiency of nutrients in the soil, your Fiddle plant may have yellow leaves. You may want to attempt fertilizing it with liquid fertilizer.
Pests. If fiddles are being attacked by insects, their leaves may also turn yellow. If you have a suspicion that this is the case, thoroughly check the leaves’ top and bottom surfaces for any potential bugs.
Stunted or slowed growth
During the spring and summer, healthy fiddles typically produce new leaves every four to six weeks. It’s possible to see your plant add numerous new leaves in only a few days or weeks because growth usually occurs in spurts. It’s typical for there to be no new growth during the winter. Again, if you don’t observe the expected growth in this plant, it may require new nutrients in the form of a quality plant fertilizer.
Dirty or dusty leaves
When was the last time you washed your plant’s leaves? Plants breathe through their leaves in addition to absorbing sunlight through them. Your plant won’t be able to carry out either of these tasks as effectively as we’d like if a layer of dust is present on its huge leaves. A fantastic technique to keep your Fiddle Leaf Fig plant bright, healthy, and vibrant is to clean the leaves every few months. You may read about various cleaning techniques for your fiddle leaf fig here.
Fiddle Leaf Figs are known to be pickier than most plants, despite the fact that they can be quite low maintenance. Maintain a regular watering routine, fertilize in the spring and summer, and most importantly, ensure that your plant receives enough light year-round (yes, this may require moving it in the winter!). Keep a watch out for any of these symptoms since treating them quickly is essential to keeping your plant healthy and looking nice.
This article was modified from Claire Akin’s Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant Resource. For additional information on how to take care of the fiddle leaf fig, see their website.
How can I tell whether my fig tree is a male or a female?
A male caprifig can be identified by its five stamens, which protrude from the fruit’s bottom and are encircled by petalless, outward-facing bracts made of tissue that resembles the fruit skin. On female trees, stamens do not emerge from the synconium.
What gender are fiddle leaf figs?
The fiddle leaf fig slowly grows up to 40 feet tall with a canopy that is 20 to 30 feet wide. The huge foliage has a rough appearance. The leaves are big, waxy, and may have wavy edges. They are a medium to dark glossy green color. The leaf blade is oval and shaped like a violin, with a base that is slightly narrower than the middle and tip that is larger. They never lose their leaves and only do so when exposed to frost or dryness. At the apex of branches, flowers appear in the spring or summer and can be either male or female. Only female flowers give rise to spherical, meaty, tiny fruits that, when ripe, fall to the ground.
- Tropical western and central Africa is the original home of the fiddle leaf fig.
- Only female flowers give rise to spherical, meaty, tiny fruits that, when ripe, fall to the ground.
Does the fruit on fig trees come before the leaves?
A few figs have been produced by one of my two fig plants. The largest and healthiest tree, the other one, has never had a fig on it. Each was sown six years ago. Why doesn’t it produce?
A: It might have to do with getting older and being too active. A fruit tree spends the majority of its energy growing leaves and shoots when it is young. The plant will yield little to no fruit until it reaches maturity and slows down in the growth of leaves and shoots. Your tree may need another year or two to gradually transition from generating primarily leaves and branches to producing and developing some fruit. It takes patience.
Be careful not to overfeed and/or overprune your fig tree. The tree will become extremely robust at the expense of setting and ripening fruit if too much fertilizer, particularly nitrogen, or severe pruning is applied. This includes whatever fertilizer the tree may have drained from a neighboring patch of grass. A tree’s roots will extend two to three times as far into nearby lawn areas as its branches do.
The outcome of overfertilizing a plant and/or overpruning it results in the plant becoming extremely vigorous in growing leaves and shoots at the expense of producing and maturing fruit.
Additionally, the list that follows, which was drawn from an Extension paper on figs, covers the most frequent causes of poor fruiting in descending priority.
- Young, robust plants and plants that have received excessive fertilization frequently yield fruit that ripens too early. Stop fertilizing plants if they are growing too vigorously. Because figs have a long juvenile phase before producing fruit of edible quality, it’s quite common for three or four years to pass before the plant matures a harvest.
- Fruit quality problems might result from hot, dry spells that happen before ripening. If so, mulching and additional watering during dry times will help to solve the issue.
- The range Regardless of how well the plant is cared for, Celeste frequently drops its fruit too early in hot weather. It is still a wonderful variety to cultivate, though.
- When the circumstances are as stated in item 2, a root-knot nematode infection can exacerbate the issue.
- You might have a fig plant that needs a certain wasp to cross-pollinate it. This is an uncommon issue. This means that it will never produce a good crop. Replacing the plant with one from a rooted shoot of a neighboring plant that consistently yields a healthy crop is the best solution.