Temperature & Light: The festive cacti thrive in bright shade. In the fall and winter, full sunshine is advantageous, but in the summer, intense sunlight can cause plants to seem pale and yellow. In the growing season from April to September, temperatures between 70 and 80 F are ideal for spring and summer growth. The Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti need on shorter (8 to 10 hour) days and cooler temperatures in the fall to develop their flower buds. Once the flower buds are set in the fall, do not allow the temperature to reach above 90 F. The loss of flower buds can be a result of persistently warm conditions. In the event that it gets below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, do not leave these cactus outside.
Temperature control and photoperiod (control of the duration of the day and night) control are key factors in successful flower bud formation in the fall. The plants require the following for the initiation of flower buds:
- dazzling light
- long evenings Before flower buds to set, there must be at least 14 hours per day of nonstop darkness. For a full bud set, long nights should begin around the middle of September and last for at least six weeks. Be aware that even two hours of intermittent lighting can prevent flower buds from setting. In 3 to 4 weeks, buds will often start to appear. Once the buds are set, the photoperiod has little impact on flowering.
- For optimal flower production, fall growth temperatures should be kept between 60 and 68 oF, ideally as close to 68 oF as feasible. Regardless of the length of the day, plants cultivated with night temperatures between 50 and 59 oF will produce flower buds, however growth will be slower and bud drop may happen at this temperature.
- Early in June, prune the stems to encourage branching and additional flower terminals.
- At the end of September, pinching—also known as leveling—is done to cut off any terminal phylloclades that are less than 1 cm (0.4 inch) and to roughly equalize the length of all stems. These young, immature stem segments won’t begin blossom buds until they are fully developed. A flower bud develops on the earlier, more developed stem segment following the removal of a brief phylloclade.
Fertilizer and Watering: Water the growing media until it feels completely dry to the touch. The spring and summer months can be dry and mildly underwatered for the holiday cacti. Avoid letting the soil become soggy, especially during the gloomy winter months, but also avoid letting it fully dry up. To avoid flower bud abscission, the growing medium must be kept consistently moist after bud set in the fall. In the saucer underneath the pot, never let water stand.
Use a half strength soluble fertilizer, such as a 20-10-20 or 20-20-20 with trace elements, to fertilize plants every month beginning when new growth begins in late winter or early spring and continuing through the summer. Compared to many plants, holiday cacti have a greater magnesium need. During the growing season, fertilize once a month with Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) blended at 1 teaspoon per gallon of water, but avoid applying the fertilizer the same week. Stop fertilizing in the late summer to increase the formation of bloom buds in the fall.
The Christmas cacti flower best when kept fairly pot-bound, according to the growing medium. Repotting is best done in the spring and is only required about once every three years. These epiphytic cacti do not grow well in heavy, wet potting mixes, thus the potting medium needs to be well-drained and well-aerated. A excellent mixture can have 60–80% potting soil and 40–20% perlite. Pick a potting soil that is pH balanced and of good quality.
How much light is necessary for a Thanksgiving cactus?
Light. Thanksgiving cactus thrives in mild indirect light in the spring and summer. Move it to a brighter area before it blooms in the fall, but keep it out of direct sunlight. The ideal location will provide bright, indirect light.
How frequently should a Thanksgiving cactus be watered?
Never water until the soil seems dry to the touch. The plant can die if it is overwatered. Aim for 60 to 65 degrees F in the room’s temperature range and plenty of indirect light. If you already have a Thanksgiving cactus from the previous year, you should start temperature and light treatments in mid-September to ensure that it blooms on schedule.
Should I mist my cactus of thanksgiving?
The most frequent queries regarding raising a Thanksgiving cactus are addressed here. If yours isn’t addressed here, post a comment below with your query.
How fast does a Thanksgiving cactus grow?
A Thanksgiving cactus can develop quickly. They can reach their full size of 24 in just a few years with the right care.
It might be time to repot yours if it is growing extremely slowly, or you could try fertilizing it in the spring and summer.
Are Thanksgiving cactus indoor or outdoor plants?
Depending on where you live, Thanksgiving cacti can grow as either indoor or outdoor plants. In areas where the winters are frigid, they are frequently kept indoors as houseplants.
When the nighttime temperature is over 50°F in the spring and summer, they can be moved outside. In zones 9 through 11, gardeners may leave them outside all year.
Should I mist my Thanksgiving cactus?
If the air in your house is particularly dry, you should mist your Thanksgiving cactus. Humidity is crucial because they absorb moisture from the atmosphere. However, after sprinkling, don’t leave water on the leaves for too long to prevent decay.
How often should I water my Thanksgiving cactus?
Only water your Thanksgiving cactus frequently enough to maintain equally moist soil. Avoid over-drying it out to prevent shriveling or drooping leaf segments. To prevent the roots from rotting, do not allow it to become so wet that there is standing water.
How much light does a Thanksgiving cactus need?
Thanksgiving cacti require 8 to 10 hours of indirect, strong light each day, with 12 to 16 hours of total darkness in the early fall to stimulate flowering. They thrive outside in locations with dappled sunlight or partial shade.
It’s crucial to learn about Thanksgiving cactus maintenance so you can consistently enjoy the stunning, vibrant flowers. You’ll be able to raise Schlumbergera truncata for many years if you get the hang of it.
Get a copy of my eBook on winter houseplant care if you want to learn even more about how to keep your favorite indoor plants alive during the year’s coldest and darkest months. It will teach you everything you need to know to maintain their health all year long. Get your copy right away.
How should my Thanksgiving cactus be cared for?
Water is one of the most important factors in Thanksgiving cactus plant maintenance. It’s important to keep these tropical plants moist; nevertheless, too much moisture at the roots might lead to rotting and fungus problems.
It frequently has exposed roots due to its epiphyte status and obtains the majority of its moisture from air humidity. Potted plants require proper drainage and soil that drains efficiently. Water thoroughly, then wait until the top third of the soil has dried up before watering once again.
Why are my Thanksgiving cactus’ limp leaves?
Lack of water or much sunlight can occasionally result in wilted or weak Christmas cacti. Start by giving the wilting Christmas cactus a small amount of water if you haven’t been watering it. Every few days, continue to water carefully until the soil is barely damp.
Christmas cactus issues can also result from excessively damp soil. The Christmas cactus cannot tolerate wet roots since it is an epiphyte in its natural habitat on the ground of tropical forests, where it takes moisture and nutrients from the air. The roots of Christmas cacti can become excessively wet and floppy because to poor drainage.
Move your wilted or limp Christmas cactus to a location with more shade, especially in the afternoon, if the leaves look dried or burned.
Cold hardiness for false Christmas cactus :
The Thanksgiving cactus is frequently referred to as a house plant. In the warmer zones 10 and up, you can grow it outdoors, in partial shade, all year round.
You should cultivate crab cactus as an indoor plant if your climate is colder than this. It will benefit from being moved outside during the summer.
Should I repot my cactus of thanksgiving?
You could see Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), a plant that lives in trees, in garden centers in the fall. Due of their tendency to bloom in late November, right around Thanksgiving, these plants have earned their common moniker. Thanksgiving cacti are related to their relatives, the Christmas and Easter cacti, in terms of appearance and culture. They can survive a long time and are occasionally handed down as family heirlooms. You should repot Thanksgiving cactus about every three years to minimize soil compaction or whenever the plants’ roots protrude from the bottom of the pot, even though they survive on gentle neglect and bloom best in pots.
Hold the Thanksgiving cactus’ base firmly in your hands and invert the pot. Avoid damaging any roots that are protruding from the drainage holes as you carefully remove the plant and root ball out of the pot.
To reveal the roots, remove as much of the old soil as you can with a brush. Remove any remaining soil from the roots by gently rinsing. Look closely at the exposed roots and look for any areas that are discolored or wet. Before continuing, remove any damaged tissue and replace it with healthy, white tissue.
Put enough orchid potting mix in the new container to allow the plant to sit at the same height as in the old one. Gently fill the space surrounding the plant until it can stand up straight without assistance after placing it on the orchid mix at the bottom of the planter. To help the dirt settle, water the pot. If more orchid mixture is required, add it.
To alleviate transplant shock, give the Thanksgiving cactus a dose of liquid fertilizer diluted at half strength. The following week, prepare a gallon of water with 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts and apply it to the plant. Up until the end of the summer, fertilize monthly, alternating liquid fertilizer with Epsom salts every two weeks.
Do Thanksgiving cacti have two blooming seasons?
On occasion, in March, Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti bloom profusely. This sort of thing does occur occasionally. Even while these flowers are typically more sparse than those you’ll see during the holidays, don’t be shocked if you see them from March to May. The majority of holiday cactus bloom more than once per year, which is the cause. Look for any buds that are developing in the spaces between the leaf segments. Using the methods mentioned above, you can encourage them to blossom, or you can just watch to see what occurs.
At any time of year, take advantage of the vibrant blossoms and post images to our Facebook page!
What distinguishes a Thanksgiving cactus from a Christmas cactus?
The holiday season has here, which not only calls for decorations but also festive plants! At this time of year, there are many lovely holiday plants to pick from, whether they are bought from a florist, nursery, or are grown at home. The Christmas cactus is one of the most popular plants to give or receive at this time of year. Or is it a Thanksgiving or Easter cactus?
The three cacti differ from one another in terms of how their leaves are shaped. The edges of the leaves of the Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumgera truncata) are very sharply pointed and shaped like claws. The leaf projections of the Christmas cactus (Schlumgera bridgesti) are more scalloped or teardrop shaped. The edges of the leaves of the Easter cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertnerrii) are extremely rounded and centered.
These three cacti are all classified as short-day plants. Therefore, the plant needs low temperatures and 12–24 hours of darkness in order to bloom. If you overwintered your plant outside or bought it from a florist or nursery, you should keep it in a cold, dark place until the buds appear. The optimum location is an infrequently used bedroom or lower level. The Easter cactus gets its name from the fact that it takes 8–12 weeks of short days to bloom as opposed to the Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti’s roughly six weeks. It can be brought into a warmer environment once the buds start to form for your enjoyment. At this stage, a plant may occasionally start to lose its buds. That might be caused by air currents, warm temperatures, an abundance of water, or direct sunlight. Bright light is good for the plants, but not direct sunlight. Before watering, the soil should be completely dry to one inch below the surface. Fertilizing or repotting shouldn’t be done when the plant is in bloom. The plants appear to thrive when they are root-bound.
You might see the Christmas and Thanksgiving cactus bloom once more in the spring, though perhaps not as lavishly as over the holiday season. Simply restore the plant to its short day settings to promote springtime blooming.
Unless they are overwatered, these plants are generally disease-free. If the plant turns crimson, there is either too much sun, not enough phosphorus, or not enough water. There are rumors of plants that have been passed down from generation to generation for more than a century. Take advantage of these easygoing holiday plants and establish a new gardening custom. Call the Linn County Master Gardener Hortline at 319-447-0647 with any and all of your gardening inquiries.
Will my Christmas cactus survive the summer outside?
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A robust Christmas cactus in full bloom makes a wonderful present or decoration, despite the fact that poinsettias continue to be the most widely used holiday plant. Christmas cacti may be cultivated year-round indoors and require little maintenance. The flowers come in a variety of hues, including combinations of yellow, salmon, pink, fuchsia, and white.
A Christmas cactus should be placed in a sunny area of the house when it is moved to its permanent location. The best light comes from a window facing north or east. If you wish to grow it inside, shade the plant with thin curtains in a south or west window.
The leaves of the Christmas cactus, a succulent plant, can hold a respectable amount of water. It is not, however, as drought-tolerant as you might imagine. When you can feel the top half of the growth mix feeling dry to the touch, water well. The amount of time between watering depends on the relative humidity, air temperature, amount of light, rate of development, and temperature of the soil.
For the Christmas cactus, humidity is crucial. Put the container on a pebble tray. To improve the humidity around the plant, keep water in the tray. Maintain the plant in this manner until it has finished blooming.
After blossoming is finished, give the plant six weeks without water to rest. Resuming watering after that will keep the soil relatively moist while allowing the top to dry off. Transfer the plant to a new container as necessary as springtime tender growth emerges, or top-dress with new growing medium. For Christmas cactus, potting soil that drains well is essential. For succulent plants, use potting soil that has been professionally packed. Every two to three years, or whenever the container is full of roots, plants need to be replanted. Any time of year is a good opportunity to repot plants that seem unwell. Every two to three weeks, use a liquid houseplant fertilizer at half the recommended rate as a follow-up.
In the summer, Christmas cacti can be put outside, but they need to be tended in a partially to completely shaded area. The leaves can burn in direct sunlight. For the summer, some gardeners relocate their plants to a porch or patio with shade. After the growing mix dries on top in the summer, water it to keep it moist.
After making sure no insects are accompanying the plant, bring it indoors when fall arrives in September. Most insects that attempt to board are usually driven off by a stream of water sprayed in their direction. Like before it went on vacation outside, put the Christmas cactus in a sunny spot. High light intensity is essential for the development of flowers.
Water simply enough during fall maintenance to keep plants from withering. Before watering, let the top half of the potting mix dry out. The pebble tray with water for humidity should not be forgotten. Don’t water the plant in October unless it starts to wilt. In November, you can slowly start watering again. Branches droop and snap when they are overwatered. When the growing mix’s top dries off, add water.
Although the Christmas cactus is simple to grow, some claim that it can be challenging to get it to bloom once more. Cool temperatures are necessary for flowering even though warm temperatures are beneficial throughout the growing season. Keep the plant somewhere where the temperature is between 60 and 65 degrees starting in October. Keep Christmas cactus away from fireplaces, heat vents, and other heat sources. Flower buds will grow if temperatures stay in this range for a period of six weeks.
If you are unable to maintain temperatures in this range, you must provide the plant with 13 hours of continuous darkness every night to trigger flowering, which should begin around the first of October. Every night, put the Christmas cactus in a room that is entirely dark, or cover it with a box or dark piece of clothing.
Stop fertilizing and only water enough to keep the leaves from drooping throughout the period of flower bud production, which begins in October. Water the growth mix when the top half becomes dry to achieve this.
Once the Christmas cactus develops buds, nurture it in a room with typical indoor temperatures and medium to high light. Water the plant to keep it evenly moist when the growing medium’s top dries out. Give your Christmas cactus a half rate of liquid houseplant fertilizer every other week. In the new year, good luck with your interior and outdoor horticultural projects, including your Christmas cactus.