- Examine the state of the leaves. Do they have any brown patches on them?
- Consider the size and shape of the leaves. Are they huge, bright, and powerful, or are they little, dirty, curled, or drooping?
- Hunt for fresh growth. The perfect plant is capable of producing new leaves.
- The new growth ought to be in good condition. A failing bud should be overlooked in favor of a fresh, cheerier-appearing new leaf.
- Use the flashlight on your smartphone to search the cracks and crevices for microscopic bugs. Just pass it up and remember to tell the garden center if you find anything.
The first thing to understand is that each online live plant shop has a unique way of presenting their inventory.
Therefore, you are unable to predict how far a knife will penetrate before coming into contact with live tissue. A razor-sharp knife is therefore very necessary. Simply using the least amount of pressure is ensured, lowering the possibility of a mistake.
A layer of bubble wrap serves as protection for my first fiddle leaf fig package. Despite popular belief, this is not only a better practice than the norm. And I appreciate that added measure of security.
The soil is then covered with masking tape so that when I tip them upside down, no dirt spills out. It’s just clever.
I paid between $4 and $5 for each of the tiny, immature fiddle leaf figs I ordered, each of which is around 2 inches tall. They will treat me nicely in the future if I treat them good now. I’m eager to provide them with the greatest care I can.
I have to approach unboxing a more mature two-footer plant differently.
Once more, having a sharp knife is essential. I can’t get my arms far enough into the box to reach that pot and pull it out since the packing is so tight. Instead of reaching down to lift the pot and the plant out, you will need to cut away the box.
I lightly press down one corner’s side with the tip of my X-Acto knife. Just to the pot, not all the way to the bottom. I can now open one side of it like a door. You can now remove the pot from the box.
I weigh it when I remove it from the packaging to gauge how saturated the soil might be. I had noticed a few little brown stains on those upper leaves. I’ll startle them in a moment to see whether they move. Since they are likely spider mites if they do.
Compared to the little babies, this plant’s evaluation is something I take very seriously. That’s not just because it costs five or six times as much, but also because there is a lot more foliage at this point to look for signs of issues.
Don’t be startled if loose dirt falls across your work surface as you remove the tape and paper. When you discover that there are no overt indicators of suffering, this is always a thrilling discovery.
You don’t need to use the stick to support the plant if it can stand upright on its own with a little pressure applied to the trunk. In fact, if you allow the trunk to rely too on that stick, you risk weakening it.
Test your plant’s ability to return to an upright position by giving it a little wiggle. I’ve been happy with the size of fiddle leaf figs I’ve been getting from online vendors. The more experienced ones are the ones that have caused me problems.
I was initially impressed by what I saw: a phenomenally robust, massive trunk, and few, if any, curled, dried, or brown-spotted leaves.
Along with the tree, a few insects that resembled fruit flies appeared. That indicates fungus gnats. I unwrapped the plant and started root-to-top inspection.
Experience has taught me that the top two inches of soil are home to white fly larvae. However, because they are minute, I knew that if there was a problem, I would only be able to see the adult fungus gnats. And I did see them.
The roots are protruding from the top of this dirt, and I can see them as I proceed up in my strategic inspection.
This is a sign that it’s time to repot other houseplants. However, our ficus lyrata rolls in this direction of its own accord. Thus, for this particular plant, you don’t need to be concerned with exposed top roots.
Then, once more, I see a big, sturdy trunk. Excellent. You might be wondering why the last plant I unboxed resembled a bush, but this trunk is naked. This one resembles a tree more.
Again, you’ll need to read another piece on our website titled Pruning and Shaping Your Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant to Keep it Healthy to find the simple solution. Your favorite plant will grow from a bushy shrub into a towering tree as described in that useful article, which will also teach you what to expect at different ages and stages.
It’s time for me to look at the vegetation right now. One thing I notice is a little hole that appears to be an injury in one of the leaves. Therefore, it is not an insect’s lunch. It won’t fix itself, but it also won’t become any bigger.
I’ll now set the plant down here so I can study the top leaves. And once more, I’m happy to see some new growth, which is the telltale sign of a healthy plant.
As I adapt the plant to its new environment, I rely on this clue to provide me comfort if the plant experiences shock. The nicest feature of this new development is that it is distinguished by large, fresh leaves rather than by little, underdeveloped, or reluctant little shoots. They merely boost my self-assurance as a caretaker.
The last thing I notice is the abundance of loose dirt. Many of the leaves and branches are being covered by it. So all this plant needs is a bath. I use 75-degree water because I want to emulate the tree’s native tropical West Africa, and I hope the tree will appreciate my thoughtful gestures like this while it adjusts to its new existence here with me.
We appreciate you learning more about the best ways to buy a fiddle leaf fig from a store or online. Make sure you know how to care for your plant after you bring it home. Happy expanding!
How should a decent fiddle leaf fig be chosen?
Examining the leaves will help you distinguish between a healthy and diseased fiddle leaf fig. New leaves should be larger than the older ones and there should be signs of recent growth. The ideal leaf is bright and sturdy.
The trunk should be solid and colored brown or green. In contrast to their striking foliage, fiddle leaf figs naturally have relatively thin, delicate-looking trunks. This plant can be either more bushy and full with leaves extending all the way to the trunk or tall and slender with all the growth focused at the top. Both sorts can be entirely healthy; it’s only an issue of look.
Fiddle Leaf Fig leaves may naturally point downward, particularly those that are located lower on the tree. Without inspecting the remainder of the plant, do not mistake this for withering. It might simply be the plant’s typical development. Before you go shopping, look at some online pictures to get an idea of what a healthy Fiddle Leaf Fig looks like.
How can you determine the health of a fiddle leaf fig?
Akin developed the website and published the book to share how to grow strong fiddle leaf fig plants. Although many indoor gardeners wish to grow the plant, she discovered that there is very little reliable and comprehensive information on cultivating them.
You will find all the information you require in this comprehensive, simple-to-read guide to succeed with fiddle leaf fig plants. This involves determining whether your plant is healthy or whether it needs some additional special care and attention.
Akin lists numerous symptoms of fiddle leaf fig plant illness along with their causes. Brown stains on leaves, which may indicate over- or under-watering, are one of these. Fungal disease, which develops when leaves are overwatered, is what causes brown blotches in the middle of leaves. Browning on the leaf edges is a sign of dry, drafty air and inadequate irrigation.
Your fiddle leaf fig plant may be suffering from a lack of sunlight or inadequate nourishment if it is dropping leaves all over the plant and the leaves are yellow.
If your fiddle leaf fig has new growth and the new leaves are bigger than the old ones, your plant is likely healthy. Additionally, the plant will have glossy, brilliant green leaves and a beautiful overall appearance.
1. Ensure adequate drainage.
Plants of the fiddle leaf fig don’t respond well to wet soil. The plant roots’ ability to breathe and maintain good health depends on adequate drainage.
2. Prevent overwetting.
Every time you water, give the soil a little time to dry out. The plant will die from root rot if the soil is kept wet. The book contains details on how much water was used to water fiddle leaf figs.
Does the fiddle leaf fig differ from the small fiddle fig?
Another frequently asked topic is how to distinguish these plants from immature ordinary fiddle leaf figs as they occasionally coexist with regular fiddles and are not designated as dwarf or bambino.
Many members of the Facebook group have expressed confusion over why their fiddles aren’t developing before realizing they had actually bought a baby!
The leaves are the most straightforward method to distinguish a child from a standard fiddle.
Large, slightly elongated leaves that resemble fiddles can be found on regular fiddles.
The leaves of bambinos are often rounder, thicker, and smaller. Additionally, Bambinos could appear a little perkier when the leaves are straight up.
Fiddle leaf figs come in two varieties, right?
Most likely, you’ve encountered two varieties of fiddle leaf figs.
the short bushy kind with leaves that begin at the base and the tall, tree-like variety with a long, naked trunk. These two plants are the same one, but one has undergone shape and pruning. It is best to shape a plant in the spring when it has had time and energy to grow back. Patience is essential because it takes 18 months to get a fiddle to your desired level.
Pruning is done for two reasons: to eliminate dead leaves and to promote new growth. It is advisable to remove leaves when they begin to brown noticeably (as a result of stress or root rot) so they don’t sap the plant’s energy. Wearing gloves, cut the leaf stem at an angle, about half an inch away from the trunk, using sharp, clean pruning shears. Although pruning is an essential component of plant maintenance, you should take care to just remove 5–10 leaves at a time to prevent shock. For a tree-like shape, you can also remove lower leaves using this technique.
Cut, pinch, and snap off the bud at the top of the plant to promote fresh top growth. You know you’ve done it correctly when you see the sap begin to run. When a plant starts to grow too tall, you can even completely take off the top of it (this is sometimes referred to as radical pinching).
What distinguishes a fiddle leaf fig bush from a tree?
The most frequent inquiry I have from readers is how to transform a fiddle leaf fig from bush to tree form ever since I published the article Growing and Pruning Your Fiddle Leaf Fig. This article will cover the topic in more detail and, hopefully, provide all the information you need.
I’ve studied and read about fiddle leaf figs for years, as well as grown and experimented with my own. I’m pleased to impart what I’ve discovered, especially given the prevalence of false information.
Will my FLF bush develop into a tree? Yes, it is the answer. FLFs are so adaptable that they can grow to be bushy or be trained to resemble a tree. Making sure that your FLF turns out to look like a tree depends on a few different aspects. First of all, have patience—growing a tree takes time! You might have discovered a smaller, bushier FLF to bring home. Younger, smaller plants are less expensive and less risky to purchase if you’re unsure of your ability to care for them. If it doesn’t stay in your house, the risk is reduced. I occasionally like to bring home smaller plants because you can then explore and mould the plant to your preferences.
Fiddle Leaf Figs have three primary characteristics that distinguish them from bushes: height, one naked trunk, and branches. So let’s examine each one separately:
Height
Fiddle Leaf Figs don’t develop as quickly as other plants, but you can hasten their growth by giving them the correct environment. Three things affect growth: light, soil, and water. It could take some time before you fully comprehend what your FLF wants. Keep a watch on it to see how it reacts to changes in the amount of water and light that it requires. For maximum growth, FLFs require well-draining soil and a decent fertilizer (this one is ideal for FLFs). If you’ve never used fertilizer before, read these suggestions first. Change anything if your FLF isn’t responding well to what you’re doing. To get it right, a little trial and error might be necessary. See my post on growing and trimming your Fiddle Leaf Fig for additional general advice.
Branches
When your FLF reaches the height at which you would like it to branch, you can trim, pinch out, or try notching the tip to promote branching. The plant is informed by pruning the tip that its primary growth tip has been impeded and that it must produce additional shoots in order to survive. If you have a clear concept of where you want a branch to develop, you might want to employ notching, which has a similar effect.
It might seem intimidating to notch a fiddle leaf fig, but it shouldn’t be. If your FLF has a thinner trunk, use a pair of clean, sharp cutters or a razor. Cut the trunk at an angle, about 1/3 deep and halfway across. Above a leaf node, carry out this. Some milky white sap will drip if you’ve done it correctly. Go over the same area once more if the bud below shows no signs of change within a week.
Similar to trimming undesired branches, only be mindful of the impact it will have on the plant and avoid leaving it too bare.
Trunk
The internet is replete of amusing images of the tree-form FLF with a naked, waif-like trunk, in contrast to the bush-form FLF, which typically has its trunk covered in leaves. The lower leaves may naturally fall off after a few years. If you can’t wait that long, pulling off the lower leaves will give you a bare trunk faster, but they won’t grow back. As a final resort, be prepared to prune these leaves. (Of these three parts, the trunk should receive the most attention.)
Because trees are top-heavy and more prone to bending or toppling, the lower leaves support the trunk and aid in its strength development. Be careful to avoid stripping your FLF of too many leaves at once. Your plant’s chances of being unwell or dying increase if there aren’t enough leaves for it to absorb the nutrients it requires from sunshine. To learn how to strengthen a weak or leaning trunk, read my complete advice here.
Multiple trunks: It’s possible that your FLF is actually more than one plant if it appears to have more than one trunk in its container. Try to determine whether they are connected (via a low fork) or if they are independent trunks. When repotting, you should be able to tell if they are distinct or even if you’re not sure. Replant the roots after carefully separating them in several pots.
By following the above instructions, your FLF should eventually start to resemble a tree. Being able to handle this process on your own is enjoyable and really rewarding! Additionally, I’ve discovered that it has given me more information on how to care for them, and I now feel certain that I could get FLF of any size and shape surviving!
Repotting, trimming, and fertilizing should all be done during a FLF’s natural growth seasons of spring and summer to give the plant the most chance to adapt to the changes and respond in a positive way. For more information on fiddle leaf figs, see these posts.
Do you still have concerns about growing a fiddle leaf fig from a bush to a tree? If this was useful or if you have any other questions, please let me know in the comments!