Give your loved ones a gift they will cherish for years to come, season after season. This lovely zygocactus, sometimes known as a Christmas cactus, is available in cheery hues and sizes. Watters Christmas Cactus is a lovely flowering plant for the holiday season with a swirl of hues in shades of golden, pink, red, and white. Just in time for the Christmas celebrations, our head grower has a keen sense of color. The vibrant colors that these blossoms offer will delight you.
You might believe that a cactus would make a unique Christmas plant. In the middle of winter, the Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgessii) is a most welcome sight when it is covered in blossoms.
Your Christmas cactus will bloom on its own with very little maintenance. It might not, though, bloom in time for the holidays. You must force your plant into dormancy around 8 weeks before you want flowers if you want it to be fully displayed throughout the holiday season. Although it seems difficult, it really doesn’t take much work. Remembering to do it is the most difficult part.
GETTING YOUR CHRISTMAS CACTUS TO BLOOM
You’ll probably need to encourage your Christmas cactus out of dormancy and force it to bloom in order to have it blossom at Christmas.
Reduce watering by mid-October. Just water when the ground feels dry, which is usually about an inch below the surface. When forcing, avoid fertilizing.
Maximum Light
Reduce the quantity of light the plant receives gradually. The plant can continue to get indirect sunlight throughout the day, but at least 12 to 14 hours of complete darkness are required for the flower buds to open at night. (If the temperature in the room is higher than the recommended 50 to 55 F, add a few more hours of darkness each day.) Your Christmas cactus should be placed in a closet or room with a door that is kept closed at night. You will also need to take the extra precaution of covering the plant with a dark cloth or bag if light leaks in from under the door. Keep doing this treatment for six to eight weeks. You ought to then notice flower buds forming on the stems.
Once you spot blossom buds, take your Christmas cactus out of the shadows and place it close to a bright window. Make sure it is not near any drafts or it will lose its buds due to the cold.
Within a few weeks, the flowers ought to begin to open. The plant should continue to bloom for four to six weeks, and each blossom should remain open for at least six days, if not longer.
GROWING TIPS
The Christmas cactus is a native of tropical rainforests, in contrast to the desert-loving cacti that many of us are accustomed to, and it need frequent water to stay healthy.
Grow your Christmas cactus as a hanging plant or set it somewhere with space for it to dangle to stimulate new stems. Don’t be concerned about bumping into it. The plants of the Christmas cactus lack thorns.
- Although Christmas cacti have been known to bloom lavishly when placed in a bright, frosty window, they prefer diffused light. They can easily adjust to changing growing environments.
- Water the plant well, letting the extra liquid drain through the drainage hole. Between waterings, let the soil almost fully dry out. Never allow moist soil to stand. When the leaves begin to pucker and shrivel, the soil is too dry.
- The Christmas cactus also requires humidity, especially in the dry conditions of warm dwellings. Either spray the plant or set a tray of stones in water underneath it. The water should not come in contact with the pot’s bottom.
- Feed Watters Root & Grow at half the suggested strength once a month as fertilizer. When the buds form, withhold this cactus feeding; continue it after flowering.
- The Christmas cactus doesn’t care too much about the temperature. They prefer temperatures between 70 and 80 F. 55 to 65 F during the growing season and during setting buds.
OTHER TIPS
- Avoid opening doors frequently and drafty windows. They dislike rapid drafts and, if exposed to them, will shed their buds or flowers.
- After flowering, minor pruning gives the plant new life.
- If Christmas cacti are maintained slightly pot confined, they tend to bloom better.
- If your Christmas cactus blooms occasionally throughout the year, don’t be shocked. That’s what a joyful Christmas cactus does.
- This plant has an incredibly long lifespan and is simple to grow from cuttings.
- Older plants bloom even more frequently than young Christmas Cacti do.
- Neglect seems to be beneficial for Christmas cacti. Avoid the urge to fuss over them.
Are there spines on Christmas cactus?
The short answer is yes if you’re wondering whether this lovely succulent is actually a cactus.
However, unlike other species of cacti, this houseplant is native to a tropical setting rather than an arid desert, so its maintenance is a little different. We’ll discuss that in more detail later.
Christmas cacti are members of the cactus family and epiphytes, which means they naturally grow in shallow organic waste found on rocks or in the cracks of tree trunks rather than in soil.
The Schlumbergera genus of plants are all indigenous to southeast Brazil’s coastal mountains, where they thrive in tropical rain forests and are pollinated by hummingbirds.
Christmas cacti lack leaves, just like other varieties of cacti, and instead have flattened, jointed stalks known as cladodes.
The final section of these stems ends in flowers. These cactus don’t have sharp spines like some of its prickly cousins, which makes handling them less of a challenge.
The true Christmas cactus (S. x buckleyi), formerly and incorrectly called as S. bridgesii, is a hybrid of two Schlumbergera species, S. truncata and S. russelliana. William Buckley designed this specific cross in the 1840s at the Rollison Nurseries in England.
The majority of houseplants marketed as “Christmas cactus” in grocery stores and garden centers today are actually varieties of S. truncata, often known as crab cactus, false Christmas cactus, or Thanksgiving cactus.
It normally blooms approximately four weeks earlier than Christmas cactus, as its name implies.
A few cultivars of the original S. x buckleyi have survived, but the majority of plants you’ll encounter today are crossbreeds between the Thanksgiving cactus, S. truncata, and the genuine Christmas cactus, S. x buckleyi.
There are a few additional methods to distinguish Christmas cacti from Thanksgiving cacti aside from their differences in bloom time:
The Christmas cactus is it thorny?
The Christmas cactus is a mysterious and magical plant. When I was a child, my parents owned one; it was a big sprawling specimen that was housed in a terra cotta pot and dropped crimson petals onto the windowsill each winter. According to its name, it flowered around Christmastime, but rather oddly, it would typically bloom once more in the early spring. Sometimes it would entirely pass away before bursting into life the following December. Knowing that this seemingly miraculous pattern was actually the result of thermo-photoperiodic bloom cycles—in other words, that cold and darkness drive it to flower—makes it the ideal plant for the lengthy winters in Maine. Here is all the information you require about this enigmatic plant.
The Schlumbergera genus, which consists of only six kinds of flowering cacti, is where the Christmas cactus originates. The genus was named after the French cacti collector Frederic Schlumberger and was discovered by Charles Lemaire in the middle of the nineteenth century.
Christmas Cactus is a native of Brazil, where it shares the Schlumbergera name with the rest of the group “Flor de Maio due to its preference for blooming in May. The Christmas cactus is generally harmless for the most of the rest of the year, but in the winter, it unexpectedly explodes into color and blossoms.
The plant has no leaves; instead, it has stems that are segmented, flattened, and slightly prickly, with an areole from which a flower develops on each. The flowers are typically crimson, white, or pink. They have tiers and may resemble flowers inside flowers.
Interestingly, there is also a Thanksgiving cactus there ” (Schlumbergera truncate, also called “crab cactus). The two are sometimes confused; in fact, a Thanksgiving cactus may be offered as a Christmas cactus. One simple way to distinguish them is: Christmas cacti have rounded, smooth stems, but Thanksgiving cacti have spiky, nearly thorny stems. Instead of early January, the Thanksgiving cactus typically blooms in late fall.
Sharp Christmas cacti?
For some people, the arrival of the holiday season can be recognized by the sound of jingle bells and the sight of rooftop lights.
But if you’re a fellow plant enthusiast like we are, the Christmas Cactus’ blooming indicates that the holiday season is already well under way.
This unusual plant is indigenous to the jungles of Brazil, where it develops as an air plant to rely on the support of the shrubs and trees it rests on top of.
However, the Christmas Cactus is typically grown as an indoor plant here in the northern hemisphere, and it blooms around Christmas.
look how appropriate the name is!
Here are eight things you should know about this festive cactus that may make you reconsider any poinsettias you may have considered your own because of its growing popularity.
1. The Thanksgiving Cactus is not to be confused with
The Thanksgiving Cactus is a distant cousin, if you will, of the Christmas Cactus and resembles it quite a bit.
You could believe you’ve discovered a Christmas cactus in the floral department of your neighborhood grocery store, but this is frequently not the case.
You see, most people typically ignore the small distinction between the Thanksgiving Cactus and the Christmas Cactus. The form of the leaf is different.
Although there are far more parallels than differences between the two, distinctions are still important with a plant this peculiar.
How can you differentiate a Christmas cactus from a Thanksgiving cactus?
The holiday season has here, which not only calls for decorations but also festive plants! At this time of year, there are many lovely holiday plants to pick from, whether they are bought from a florist, nursery, or are grown at home. The Christmas cactus is one of the most popular plants to give or receive at this time of year. Or is it a Thanksgiving or Easter cactus?
The three cacti differ from one another in terms of how their leaves are shaped. The edges of the leaves of the Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumgera truncata) are very sharply pointed and shaped like claws. The leaf projections of the Christmas cactus (Schlumgera bridgesti) are more scalloped or teardrop shaped. The edges of the leaves of the Easter cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertnerrii) are extremely rounded and centered.
These three cacti are all classified as short-day plants. Therefore, the plant needs low temperatures and 12–24 hours of darkness in order to bloom. If you overwintered your plant outside or bought it from a florist or nursery, you should keep it in a cold, dark place until the buds appear. The optimum location is an infrequently used bedroom or lower level. The Easter cactus gets its name from the fact that it takes 8–12 weeks of short days to bloom as opposed to the Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti’s roughly six weeks. It can be brought into a warmer environment once the buds start to form for your enjoyment. At this stage, a plant may occasionally start to lose its buds. That might be caused by air currents, warm temperatures, an abundance of water, or direct sunlight. Bright light is good for the plants, but not direct sunlight. Before watering, the soil should be completely dry to one inch below the surface. Fertilizing or repotting shouldn’t be done when the plant is in bloom. The plants appear to thrive when they are root-bound.
You might see the Christmas and Thanksgiving cactus bloom once more in the spring, though perhaps not as lavishly as over the holiday season. Simply restore the plant to its short day settings to promote springtime blooming.
Unless they are overwatered, these plants are generally disease-free. If the plant turns crimson, there is either too much sun, not enough phosphorus, or not enough water. There are rumors of plants that have been passed down from generation to generation for more than a century. Take advantage of these easygoing holiday plants and establish a new gardening custom. Call the Linn County Master Gardener Hortline at 319-447-0647 with any and all of your gardening inquiries.
Do I have a certain kind of Christmas cactus?
The Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti have different leaves but the same flowers, as was already described. Easter cacti, on the other hand, have leaf margins that are smoother and devoid of notches and require a considerably longer cool and low light period in order to flower. Easter cactus plants have flat, star-shaped flowers that are simple to distinguish from the elongated blooms of the other holiday cacti.
Purple-brown anthers hang from the drooping flowers of the Christmas cactus. The blooms of the Thanksgiving cactus feature yellow anthers and develop parallel to the stalks.
All three plants have different hues, although red to fuchsia are the most typical. They come in white, orange, and yellow as well. No matter what they are called, holiday cactus are rather simple to grow and will bloom every year if they have their low temperature, low light period.
What makes a Christmas cactus unique?
Christmas cacti are highly common indoor plants, and for good reason too! They produce vibrant, tubular flowers that are pink or purple in hue when they bloom. They are a superb plant because of their lovely blossoms, lengthy bloom period, and simple maintenance needs. Someone in your family most likely owns a Christmas cactus!
About Christmas Cacti
The Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi) and its cousins don’t exist in hot, arid conditions like deserts or plains, in contrast to other cacti. These epiphytic succulents, which grow on tree branches and take in the high humidity, dappled sunlight, and moderate temperatures, are actually endemic to the tropical rainforests of southern Brazil.
Bottom line: Don’t handle a Christmas cactus like a typical succulent or cactus. They are unable to withstand the same kind of hot, dry weather that other cactus can. These cacti require more frequent watering than most succulents, but you also need to be careful not to overwater them. (See the care guidelines in more detail below.)
Thanksgiving, Easter, or Christmas Cactus?
The Easter cactus (S. gaertneri), Thanksgiving cactus (S. truncata), and Christmas cactus are the three main varieties of “holiday cacti” that are available (S. x buckleyi). The holiday that each cactus is named after often sees the most blooming. Thanksgiving cacti, which often bloom from November to February and hence go unrecognized as Christmas cacti, make up the majority of “Christmas cacti” sold nowadays. See our post on the several Christmas cacti species and how to distinguish them for more information.
Note: Because it’s the most widely used term and it applies to all three of these species, we’ll refer to all three of them on this page as “Christmas cactus” for simplicity’s sake.
Potting Christmas Cacti
- Choose a pot with a drainage hole on the bottom if you’re choosing one for a Christmas cactus. This prevents the soil from getting overly saturated.
- Most succulent-specific potting mixtures work well for Christmas cacti growth. It’s crucial that your potting soil drains properly.
Where to Put a Christmas Cactus
- Plants should be kept in indirect light that is bright. The best location has an east-facing window or a well-lit bathroom. The delicate leaves might be bleached by too much direct sunshine.
- It is preferable to have a daytime temperature of 70F (21C) and an evening temperature of 60–65F (15–18C).
- Christmas cacti do well in a more humid climate, so keeping them in a well-lit bathroom or kitchen is a smart idea.
- Christmas cacti can be kept in a shady area of the garden or on an unheated porch during the summer until the temperature drops below 50F. (10C). Keep them away from the sun’s rays outside.
How to Care for Christmas Cacti
- Water your plants every two to three weeks, but only when the top third of the soil feels dry to the touch. If the plant is in 6 inches of soil, for instance, water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry. (Check with your finger!)
- When the soil is completely dry, wet it until water seeps through the drainage holes in the pot. To collect the water, put a tray underneath the pot. To prevent the pot from sitting in water, remove any extra water on the tray after 10 to 15 minutes.
- While the plant is in bloom, it’s very crucial to water thoroughly.
- Feed your indoor plants with a balanced houseplant fertilizer every two weeks from spring through early fall. Feed the cactus once a month in the fall and winter to promote fruitful blooming.
- To promote branching and more flowers, prune plants in the late spring. Simply cut a portion of each stem off; the plant will grow new branches from the incision.
- If desired, plant the cut pieces in potting soil that is only gently damp; they will easily root after a few weeks and make wonderful Christmas gifts!
How to Get Your Christmas Cactus to Bloom
The longer evenings and chilly weather of fall are what cause Christmas cacti and its relatives to bloom. The three major varieties of holiday cacti typically bloom on the following schedule:
- Thanksgiving cactus typically produce flowers from late October through mid-winter, making them the earliest and longest bloomers.
- Christmas cacti often bloom in the early to midwinter months.
- Easter cacti flower around the middle of spring through late winter.
If your cactus isn’t flowering, it can be getting too much light or being exposed to too much heat. Here are some suggestions to help you get blooms from yours!
- For a minimum of six weeks, the nights must be at least 14 hours long and the days between 8 and 10 hours. You might need to cover your cactus or relocate it to an area that is exposed to the natural light cycle if you have powerful interior lighting that is on at night.
- When the plant is kept at temps between 50 and 60F, flower buds form best (10 and 15C).
- By subjecting the plant to temps around 45F (7C) for a number of nights in a succession, you can jumpstart the budding process.
- While the plant is in bloom, be sure to water it consistently. The plant may lose its buds if it dries out too much.
- Don’t worry if the cactus loses its buds one winter; the following year it should bloom.
The three primary varieties of “holiday cacti” are as follows:
- Often mistaken for Christmas cacti, Thanksgiving cacti (Schlumbergera truncata) bloom from late October to mid-winter.
- Christmas cacti (S. x buckleyi) flower in the early to midwinter months.
- Late winter to mid-spring is the blooming period for Easter cacti (S. gaertneri).
- Make sure to water your Christmas cactus frequently and keep it cool when the buds on the plant appear ready to open.
- The optimum time to propagate cuttings is late spring when most holiday cacti start to grow after their winter hibernation.
Blossom loss: Your Christmas cactus will probably lose its blossoms if it experiences any kind of stress. As mentioned in the plant care section above, this could be caused by the amount of light or a sudden shift in temperature. Make sure your soil doesn’t become overly dry while buds are developing.
The plant could be vulnerable to mealy bugs and root rot if overwatered. If you experience issues, remove the affected sections and repot the plant in fresh soil.