Although plumeria plants (Plumeria spp.) grow best when planted in the ground, if you live in a cooler area you may also grow them indoors in pots. These lovely floral trees do well in full sun and are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 to 12.
Plumerias can be grown inside.
Yes, you can, and this article will outline the fundamentals of growing plumeria plants year-round inside. At your neighborhood nursery, you can buy potted plumeria plants or grow your own from cuttings.
Make careful you use a coarse, well-draining potting mix to pot your plants or cuttings. Particularly, a cactus blend ought to work. You might, however, choose to create your own blend. However, a straightforward mixture of equal parts peat and perlite should be more than adequate. Everyone appears to have their own unique creative plumeria blend.
When cultivating plumeria indoors, your aim should be to as closely resemble their natural environment as you can in order to promote year-round growth and flowering. You can achieve this by using the following indoor plumeria growing advice.
Do plumerias require direct sun exposure?
Since they need shelter from temperatures below 33 degrees, plumeria are best planted in pots in this region. Place your plumeria where it will receive at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day, with possible afternoon shade. These plants require a potting soil with good drainage, such Fox Farm Happy Frog potting soil. Repotting should only be done when the plants have filled their pots with roots because their root systems will appear small for the size of the plant. All that is required for transplanting is a 4-6 increase in pot size. In my decorative pots, I prefer to place the plastic nursery pots in which I store my plumeria. This facilitates transportation to a sheltered area when cold weather strikes. Bonus: If I purchase a decorative pot that is a little bigger than the plumeria’s current container, I can typically use the decorative pot again once the plumeria has grown and been “bumped” to a larger plastic container.
Throughout the growing season, plumeria should be regularly watered. This starts in the spring when they first start to leaf out and finishes in the fall when they start to lose their leaves. When flowering, plumeria will probably need more regular watering because blooms lose more moisture to the atmosphere than do leaves. When the plant is actively developing, you can allow the top few inches of the soil dry up, but not the entire container. Do not put a saucer under the pot when watering; doing so could cause the plant to decay.
In Texas, bloom season often starts in April or May, depending on when the weather starts to rise. Larger, older plants may bloom for up to six months. Because they consume a lot of food, plumeria need regular fertilization during the growing season. The middle number (phosphorous), which is the highest of the three, should be present in the NPK formulation of the fertilizer. The fertilizer NutriStar Plumeria, with an analysis of 5-30-5, is what we advise. From the time the plants leaf out in the spring until early September, NutriStar should be administered about every 3–4 weeks. It is a time-release granular fertilizer.
As deciduous trees, plumeria typically shed their leaves on their own over the winter. Reduced day duration and cooler evening temperatures regulate leaf fall. To encourage leaf drop and dormancy before it gets cold, I normally start watering my Plumeria less frequently about October. They can be moved inside a garage or to a location that won’t freeze in the winter after they have shed their leaves. Once they lose their leaves and go dormant, they practically require NO WATER. It is not advisable to water a Plumeria without leaves because doing so frequently results in the decay of the roots and stems.
If space is an issue, plants may also be uprooted and the soil from the roots shook off to be preserved for the winter. Simply repot them in the spring, and once new leaves start to emerge, start watering them once more.
Spider mites, mealy bugs, and white flies are pests to watch out for. These pests can typically be controlled with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil sprays (if temperatures are under 85 degrees F). In the late summer and early fall, a rust fungus may develop on the undersides of the leaves. To stop the spread of the disease, remove and destroy the affected leaves before applying a fungicide with a rust fungus label.
A Plumeria cutting should be between 16 and 18 inches long. Set the cutting 3–4 deep in a pot with well-drained potting soil or sand after letting the cut end dry out in the shade for a few days. In order to give the cutting stability while rooted without enabling the cutting to rot, add a few inches of pea gravel on top of the soil.
The warmest months of the year, when nightly lows are 65 degrees F or greater, are the best times of the year to take cuttings. Place the cutting in direct sunlight and wait to water it until the new leaves start to emerge and are at least six inches long. Only fertilize a cutting once it has grown a healthy set of leaves and when you can feel roots forming by pushing on the cutting.
On a rooted cutting, a flower stalk often grows. If you take the flower stalk off of the cutting, it will root more quickly.
A springtime Plumeria cutting typically takes six weeks to root. Rooting hormone may expedite the growth of roots in dark red types, which may be more challenging to root.
When will a Plumeria grown from a cutting start to bloom? This question comes up frequently. The size and age of the tree from which the cutting was obtained will determine this. Large, older trees (10’+) from which cuttings are obtained in late winter or early spring will likely blossom their first year. Smaller trees’ cuttings may take up to two years to bloom. It can take a year or two before it blooms again if you take a cutting in late summer, after bloom season.
What time of day should I bring my plumeria indoors?
The following are some common queries regarding plumeria overwintering. Please inquire about your answer in the comments section if you don’t see it here.
Do plumerias go dormant in the winter?
It is part of plumerias’ normal life cycle to go dormant in the winter most of the time. They will, however, retain their leaves and occasionally even bloom throughout the winter if it’s warm enough and they receive lots of light.
Can I overwinter plumeria in an unheated garage?
Plumeria can survive the winter in an unheated garage as long as the temperature rises above 40°F. In order to prevent frost damage and force dormancy, I keep mine in my unheated garage in the fall. Once the weather outside becomes too chilly, I move it inside.
Can I leave my plumeria plant outside over winter?
If you live in a zone 10 or higher, you can leave your plumeria plant outside over the winter. However, in order for it to live when the outside temperature is persistently below 40F, you must bring it inside.
How much cold can a plumeria tolerate?
A plumeria is a tropical plant, hence it cannot withstand extreme cold. Even while it can endure brief periods of colder than the 30sF, it likes temperatures at least 50F higher.
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How is a potted plumeria plant maintained?
To flower, plumerias need at least a half-day of direct sunlight, but full sun is ideal. During the summer growing season, keep the soil equally moist but permit some drying to take place in between thorough waterings. Always stay away from wet circumstances because they can cause root rot. On the other side, extreme dryness will cause leaf loss and yellowing of the leaves. Maintaining a happy middle ground is important.
The NutriStar for Plumeria fertilizers from Nelson Plant Food deliver great results. A regular fertilization program with a formulation high in phosphorus (the middle number) will produce vigorous plants with huge clusters of flowers that typically appear from early summer until fall. Avoid using nitrogen-rich fertilizers since they often result in lanky plants with few blooms.
When nighttime temperatures drop below 40 degrees F, plumerias should be brought inside since they are extremely sensitive to frost. If the environment indoors is bright enough to support continuous growth, give plants regular waterings, but only when the soil has become just moderately dry.
Allow the plant to hibernate for the rest of winter if the environment is unfavorable. Put it in a space where the temperature is kept just above 40 degrees Fahrenheit for storage. During this time, plumerias don’t need any light or water. The plant will rest until spring after losing all of its leaves, looking like a stick or a defoliated tree limb.
How frequently should potted plumeria be watered?
Never allow standing water in a catch dish for water. Start with a six-inch pot and no bigger so that the dirt may dry up quickly. Once you get 2 to 3 inch leaves, you only need to water every 2 to 3 weeks. Once they have sprouted leaves and rooted, regular watering can resume.
The plumeria blossom lasts how long?
Plumeria plants have up to seven months of blooming every year. This is greatly influenced by the variety. Warmer climates allow plants to blossom for a longer period of time.
Some kinds have four months of blooming each year. Each blossom lasts between one and four days, depending on the varietal.
Since plumeria plants bloom from the summer through the fall, you’ll have the plant for a very long period.
Where should my plumeria plant be placed?
Despite being a tropical plant, plumeria trees can be grown in different areas with the correct conditions:
- 1. Decide where to plant your plumeria in your garden. They need full sun or some shade. Due of their low cold tolerance, you might think about planting your plumeria in a container with drainage holes so you may bring it indoors during the winter.
- 2. Plant in warm weather: Ideally, you should plant your plumeria in the early spring or another warm period of the growing season.
- 3. Prepare the soil: Use a potting soil with perlite and sand that drains well and is somewhat acidic for your plants.
- 4. Plant the plumeria: To plant the plumeria tree, dig a hole that is as deep and as broad as the root ball, and then plant it so that the root ball is flush with the earth.
- 5. Fill the hole and smooth the dirt before covering and watering. Water to keep the soil wet but not soggy.
Are plumerias water-intensive plants?
The most of the time, plumeria care is minimal. Despite the fact that plumerias dislike having their feet wet, when they are irrigated, they should be deeply watered before being given some time to dry off. Throughout their active growing season, they also need to be fertilized around every two to three weeks. Once the plants go into hibernation in the winter, irrigation should be drastically reduced starting in mid-fall. As soon as new growth shows in the spring, start watering again. A fertilizer with a high phosphate content, such as 10-30-10, will aid in promoting blooms. Too much nitrogen will simply promote the growth of more foliage and less blooming.
In late winter or early spring (before new growth), prune plumerias as needed, up to 12 inches (31 cm) from the ground; however, any abrupt or forceful trimming may restrict flowering.
In the spring, these plants can also be multiplied by seeds or cuttings, with cuttings being the simplest and most popular technique. Place cuttings in potting soil at a depth of about 2 inches (5 cm) and thoroughly water them.
How do I make my plumeria bloom?
Place the plumeria outside in dappled or part shade once any chance of frost has passed, then gradually move it into a spot with full sun. The finest plumeria blooms occur when the plants are exposed to at least six hours of sunlight each day. When the days grow shorter and the temperature drops below 65 to 70 degrees, bring it inside.
What degree of cold can a plumeria withstand?
Though the absolute minimum temperature for most Plumeria is 32F, try to maintain it above 40F. If you only have a few plants, you can achieve this by simply putting your Plumeria into your living room.
How should a plumeria plant be cared for over the winter?
Numerous customers have stopped by to inquire as to why the foliage on their plumerias is turning yellow and even beginning to defoliate. Thankfully, this is a normal reaction to the area’s changing environment from cool to cold. At this time of year, Plumerias are widespread in our area. Around November, some plants will either begin partially or totally defoliating, depending on the species and blossom color. Not to worry. They frequently reply, “In Hawaii, they don’t defoliate. The climate in Southern California is completely different. Plants can benefit from dormancy. When the weather starts to warm up, they release their stored energy to push new foliage and blossoms.
Due to the lower temps from late April through May of last year, my plumerias began to push around.
It’s easy to take care of your plumerias in the fall and winter. Bring them inside and set them in one of our contemporary indoor planters in a well-lit area if you want them to keep blooming and retain lush foliage. Before bringing them inside, take sure to water them well and let them drain completely. While they are indoors, it is typically not essential to water them, but this depends on the size of the container and whether the plants are close to a heating vent. If your plants are leafless, I wouldn’t water them at all until the spring when they begin to push forth new growth. At this time, fertilizers do not need to be added.
Irene Jones of Carlsbad
I get a lot of frost in my yard because I live close to a valley’s bottom. I must therefore guard my plumerias more than other people may. Each of my six plant groups is treated differently.
- Group 1: Bagged cuttings that are being rooted are housed in a greenhouse; when the weather turns chilly, I use heat mats to keep them warm.
- Group 2: Expensive or unusual newly-rooted plants in one-gallon pots; they are kept indoors when the nighttime temperature falls below 45 degrees.
- Group 3 consists of established 1- and 5-gallon pots, which are kept in a covered patio that is covered with frost cloth or plastic.
- Group 4: Established 15-gallon pots these are grouped together and covered with frost fabric; when temps fall below 45 degrees, lights are setup and turned on behind the frost cloth.
- Established in-ground plants in group 5 are not covered with frost cloth unless temperatures are predicted to drop below 32 degrees.
- All-size seedlings make up Group 6
- I make an effort to cover these in frost cloth, but occasionally it is unsuccessful.
The plant must be thoroughly covered in frost cloth. It creates a greenhouse-like environment by adding extra heat both during the day and at night. Plants are better able to withstand the nighttime chill thanks to the increased daytime temperature, and they emerge from hibernation earlier in the spring.
When I water the plants in September, October, and November, I add Dyna-Gro Pro-Tekt to the water. It is a silicon and potassium solution. It serves the purposes of “improving heat and drought tolerance, boosting resilience to environmental stress, and promoting development for stronger, hardier plants.”
Greg Silverthorn of Lakeside
Due to the Santa Ana winds in the fall, we typically remove the majority of the leaves from the parent trees and large potted plants. I detest when branches break. I also repot root-bound plants that are in pots and compost all of the parent plants that are in the ground. I’m trying to fertilize and compost as many plants as I can this year to see how they do when springtime rolls around again. I’m fortunate to have my plumerias in a south-facing area of my yard where there is little to no frost. When the nights start to become chilly and the leaves start to fall from the trees, I routinely stop watering. I ensure that water doesn’t collect in any one area and that there is proper drainage over the entire area.
Jeff Hopper of Escondido
On each tree, sprinkle a last dose of Sul-Po-Mag and, if possible, an additional dose of potassium from bananas or a slow-release fertilizer. The plant’s inner cells benefit greatly from potassium, which also helps the plant withstand cold conditions. Sunburn is my main concern at this time of year. On days of intense heat and sun, the sun is lower in the sky and usually begins to reach the tree trunk. Additionally, the tree has fewer leaves to shield the trunk, so I seek for ways to create shade. In San Diego, the months of November and December are the hottest, making it challenging to find shade if there isn’t a canopy of large trees. The water needs to be reduced as well, making the tree even more susceptible to sunburn. Additionally, I’ll walk through the grove and turn off sprinklers. I’ll cap some of them and delay turning them back on until St. Patrick’s Day. My yearly wake-up party on St. Patrick’s Day involves giving each tree a second dose of Sul-Po-Mag and an injection of nitrogen to aid in their arousal.
Jerry & Arlene Martin of Rancho Penasquitos
We merely cover our potted plants so they don’t receive a lot of excess rainwater; that’s all we do. We purchased a little shelter this year to house the one-gallon pots in for safety. The leaves of those entering the refuge will be taken off. At the end of October, all potted plants will receive their final feeding along with some Epsom salts.
Doug Jones of Mt. Soledad
Other than saying “no leaves, no water,” I do nothing. On the south side of the house, plants move to high ground (protects from cold north winds and gets more south sun).
Bud Guillot of Huntington Beach
Plumerias, which originated in Central Mexico, have been adopted and transported to many different regions throughout the world by lovers and worshippers, where they have thrived. Low temperatures and an abundance of water have not helped them adapt effectively. Low temps haven’t caused too much of a problem where I live in Huntington Beach, California. I can count the number of plumerias I have lost to cold weather on one hand in the brief 62 years I have been raising plumerias. Therefore, I’m not very concerned about the cold. My main challenge is preventing my plumerias’ roots from receiving excessive moisture during their dormant months. The 3- to 6-inch mounds on which I have all of my plumerias in the ground provide great drainage and guard against root rot. My potted plants are the source of my issue. Because the dirt is below the rim of the container, too much water will be trapped there, drowning the root system. I relocate all potted plants that can be moved under a roof, and I don’t water them again until the following spring. In order to prevent rain from entering larger potted plants that would be difficult to relocate, I build a “coolie cap” made of tar paper. Note: Prior to covering the planter mix in the pot, make sure it is largely dry.
Roland Dubuc & Lee Horton of Fallbrook
We just cease watering the mixed plant areas altogether or at least reduce it throughout the winter to safeguard the plumerias.
Carl & Joy Herzog of Lakeside
Because of our hillside location, we occasionally suffer strong winds. The majority of the leaves on the plants are removed during the windy season. The ideal number of leaves per tip is between 6 and 8. This nevertheless enables the plant to absorb sunlight and retain nutrients. The plants that are planted in the ground are not affected by frost. The potted plants are moved into a shade cloth-covered building. To save heat and protect one another, I keep them as near to one another as I can. To keep the air circulating, we also run fans close to the ground. I apply Malathion to the soil, pot bottoms, and all plants. Additionally, this aids in preventing insects from overwintering on the plants. I use a spritz of Horticultural Oil if bug issues do arise later. Observe all label directions.
We have a room beneath our home that is completely dark and has constant temperatures. I have sizable, 18-inch-deep containers if we need to cut any plants. To prevent any bug issues, properly clean the cuttings. In the bottom 6 inches, I used a mixture of #1 Perlite, huge chunks 20%, and coir 80%, or 20/80. The cuttings’ cut ends are spread over the mixture. I exclude them from the equation. The roots are simple to work with when they are placed on top of the mixture. Most of them will have begun to send out roots by the time I’m ready to plant them. Sometimes I’ll use a handheld spray bottle to spritz them. They will rot if you get them too moist.