Staghorn ferns are the object of our enduring devotion. Various species have been mounted to a wide range of media in our experiments. One thing resounds consistently, whether mounted on a “modern” application or a rustic board retrieved from the banks of the Mississippi: Each and every staghorn has its own unique personality and expression. With good reason, these structural marvels have elevated to plant cult status in recent years. Staghorn ferns may flourish indoors and give an organic layer to any setting because to their simple maintenance and lovely growth.
Epiphytes, or air plants, include staghorn ferns. Tillandsias are frequently referred to as “air plants,” but all epiphytes, including staghorn ferns, fall under this umbrella term. Epiphytic plants use their root systems to adhere to a medium for structure rather than absorbing nutrients via their roots; instead, nutrients are absorbed through the leaves or fronds. Staghorn ferns that have been mounted are actually structural works of living art that may be admired both indoors and outside.
How should a staghorn fern be cared for?
Staghorn fern maintenance requires careful regulation of humidity, light, and temperature. With proper care, the ferns can live a long time and weigh several hundred pounds in their natural environment. Homegrown ferns are often much smaller, but they can last for many years in the family.
Frequent watering is necessary for proper staghorn fern maintenance, but you should also let the soil become dry in between.
The plant is susceptible to the fungal disease known as “black spot.” To avoid the spores that cause disfigurement, avoid watering the vegetation and reduce humidity indoors.
Are staghorn ferns air purifiers?
The Staghorn Fern needs to be overwinterized in hardiness zones lower than eight even though it is moderately hardy and can tolerate a light frost. This fern not only aids in the breakdown of air pollutants, but its epithetic growth pattern also makes it the ideal specimen for wall decoration.
Place a few handfuls of damp sphagnum moss or orchid mix on a piece of bark or (untreated) wood board to install your Platycerium bifurcatum. Place the fern on top of the medium mound so that the board is touched by the flat, rounded basal fronds. You can securely fasten the fern to the board by using twine, wire, or fishing line.
What makes staghorn ferns unique?
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Maybe even longer than humans, fems have existed on earth. They were the first vascular plants to grow to any height on land and to live.
Although most people associate ferns with a wooded, humus environment, some ferns can also be found growing in the arctic or close to the equator. Some are aquatic, some live in the mountains, and some are even succulents.
The staghorn ferns, however, are the aristocrats of the fern world. With its graceful, long fronds that do in fact resemble stag antlers, they really look the part. These epiphytes, sometimes known as elkhom ferns, are indigenous to East Australia, New Guinea, New Caledonia, Java, and Mozambique. They bypassed a land phase in the evolutionary process after emerging from an aquatic environment, which is the typical habitat for most plants, and instead found a home on tree branches in tropical woods.
It’s possible that the ferns became stuck there during a long-ago land movement. The roots of the staghorn act as hold fasts when perched in the trees. Water is obtained from dew and rain there, and the fronds receive the light necessary for photosynthesis.
Staghorn ferns have two different leaf types, setting them apart from other fern species. The “staghorns,” which are long, forked, gray-green fronds that are typically covered in downy white fine hairs, are the most noticeable. The fertile leaves on these fronds contain spores, which serve as the ancestors of subsequent generations. When present, the hairs act as both defensive and gas exchange mechanisms. Don’t give in to the want to touch them. The fern’s spherical, shield-shaped basal leaves, which are soft green, pubescent, and young, have gorgeous veining. As they get older, they turn brown and papery. They serve to enclose and protect the roots, hold water, and collect debris that falls into the “bin” they create. They are sterile. To secure the plant, the sterile leaves encircle the tree or other support.
Staghorn ferns can be grown by anyone who can grow indoor plants. They are so unlike the typical types, and the outcomes are thrilling and satisfying. With your gardening expertise, you can astonish and impress guests.
Purchasing a mature staghom or a pair of them is the simplest solution. A greenhouse with ideal humidity, light, temperature, and air circulation can be used to hang mature, mounted plants.
A more difficult solution exists. Own what you grow or sow! It’s no more challenging to produce ferns from spores than it is to grow radishes from seed. However, it will require some patience because effects won’t be apparent for weeks like radish seeds take to develop. The “special room” must be used for this germination time. I’ve discovered that fern spores cultivated in this way are amenable to indoor environments.
Fern societies sell spores of various ferns. Addresses are at the conclusion of the article. The price is little. (My unique cultivar cost 50 cents.) Refrigerator dishes work excellent as the appropriate propagation box because they are transparent, clear plastic containers. I make use of a 5x3x2 inch box. The base has three rows of tiny drainage and air holes, while the lid has two rows of air holes. A flame-heated nail is used to create holes.
Put a number of little pieces of crock in the box’s base. Crock prevents drainage holes from being clogged by absorbing water and allowing air to circulate. Add a few charcoal briquettes. Then, use prepared, sterilized seed starter mix that is available from garden supply stores to fill the box to a depth of two inches. To level it, lightly tamp. The holes in the box will allow moisture to seep through. Place the box in a container of warm water. The mixture won’t become just damp in a short amount of time. (I favor using this technique over using a prewetted material.) So that you may start sowing right away, lightly mist the warm water on top of the mixture.
Do not be upset if all you can see when you open the spore packet is a small amount of dust. A very steady hand and a demitasse spoon or toothpick will help. Attempt to spread the dust. The box’s lid should be closed. Label the box with the date and the person’s name, then place it somewhere warm and well-lit.
When using fluorescent lighting for gardening, the box should be placed near the ends of the tubes where it will be heated by the ballast. If there is too much condensation, lift the lid for an hour or two, but don’t forget to replace it.
Tiny green plants will start to sprout, continuing on Page 52. The initial few, roughly inch-long fronds develop two months later. Nine months following the initial sowing, I made my first fern transplant. Small ferns were included in two prop boxes’ worth. A select few were big enough to be potted separately at the end of the first year, but the majority stayed in the nursery, beneath the fluorescent lights.
The staghorn fern’s base fronds serve as a gauge of maturity. At one and a half years old, the largest plant produced its first basal leaf, which was just under an inch long. Many new plants were germinating at this time in the prop boxes.
The largest plant’s longer fronds reached a length of three and a half inches just under two years after it was established. The roots were surrounded by the brown basal leaves. New soft green spherical, pubescent basal leaves were sprouting above, below, and in between them. The length of fully developed, fertile fronds can reach three feet. At that point, basal leaves have grown to the point where they can store a week’s worth of water.
A suitable potting mixture for ferns in the maturing stage has equal parts peat or humus, sterilized soil, perlite, along with a little fir bark, bonemeal, and lime to balance the acidity of the peat. It is crucial to mist frequently. Fish oil emulsion fertilizer is applied to plants once a month at a dosage of 1/4 teaspoon per half gallon of water.
My finest results in terms of growth were. obtained in shallow, transparent, plastic containers with drainage holes that are about four inches in diameter and one inch high.
When summer staghorn ferns are big enough to be outside and somewhat shaded and protected, do so whenever possible. Mine are on a table a few feet from a window, where they have regular access to fresh air and strong winter light from a routinely opened door and window.
My plants have thrived in pots, but mounting them on a piece of bark or wood board makes for a more impressive show. Delaying this action until the basal leaves have grown sufficiently to store water for many days is advised.
Construct a pocket out of a nice piece of bark or wood. Set the fern in the pocket, flattening it out so the basal fronds cover it, and pack with damp sphagnum moss. Lightly secure the fern with a delicate cord. The fern should receive daily mistings. Keep the fern flat and out of direct sunlight for at least a week or 10 days so that the roots may develop fully and firmly anchor the fern to the wood. The fern can then be hung in a bright, but not particularly sunny, location where, I guarantee, it will be a talking point.
Both the American Fern Society and the International Fern Society, both located at 4369 Tujunga Avenue in North Hollywood, California, 91604, are sources of spores.
Is it necessary to mist my staghorn fern?
The beauty of staghorn ferns cannot be denied. These plants are real living works of art when they are mounted on a board, covered in old burlap, and displayed on a wall.
Staghorn ferns come in dozens of species, and they were quite uncommon up until recently. Platycerium bifurcatum, an Australian native species that is relatively easy to maintain and grow, is the reason they are now becoming more and more popular as houseplants.
Many individuals who come to our nursery are intimidated by the maintenance of staghorn ferns, and we’ll be the first to acknowledge that these plants may be finicky. It’s important to understand a little bit about how these epiphytic beauties develop before we get into our best practices for staghorn fern maintenance.
Staghorn ferns can be purchased as young plants in pots, but as they get older, they must be mounted to a board or hung in a hanging basket. Why? Staghorn ferns grow on other plants or trees in their natural settings because, like air plants, they are epiphytic plants.
Staghorn ferns reach truly enormous sizes in the tropics (and even warmer regions of the US like Florida), protruding prominently from the curves of trees. Their fronds and roots help them to collect water and nutrients, while their roots keep them in place.
Staghorn fern care can be challenging because the morphology of the plant differs from that of most other common houseplants, including other ferns. Ferns are among the oldest plants, with roughly 12,000 different kinds. Ferns don’t have flowers or seeds like other plant species do; instead, they release microscopic spores into the air (similar to mushrooms and mosses), which eventually develop into new plants.
Staghorn ferns have two different kinds of fronds, which are fern leaves. The first and most noticeable is the “antler frond,” which is a group of huge, bifurcated leaves that emerge from the middle of the plant and are named after staghorn ferns because they resemble moose or deer antlers. Don’t remove the spores that grow on the lowest portions of these fronds; they resemble brown fluff. Staghorn fern maintenance prohibits doing this.
The shield frond is the second variety of staghorn fern frond. These are the rounded, stiff plates-like leaves that round the plant’s base. They serve to both protect the roots of the plants and to absorb water and nutrients. Initially green, these fronds gradually become brown and dry up. This is one of the most typical myths about caring for staghorn ferns, despite the fact that it is a completely natural aspect of their life cycle. Dried shield fronds should never be removed, and a brown shield frond does not indicate that your staghorn fern is dying.
The root ball is the staghorn fern’s last component. Stags are epiphytes, which means that they have very small root systems that aid in the plant’s attachment to its habitat. Staghorn ferns require substantial drainage and are particularly vulnerable to root rot because of their tiny roots.
Following a brief introduction to these mounted beauties, we will discuss our recommended methods for caring for staghorn ferns.
You probably image the cool, lush forest floors of the Pacific Northwest when you think of ferns. You could perhaps assume that your stag will enjoy a dark environment, but you would be mistaken! Staghorn ferns are indigenous to the tropics; the variety we highlight most frequently, Platycerium bifurcatum, originates from Australia.
Staghorn ferns need bright, indirect or diffused light to thrive, yet most species must be sheltered from the harsh rays of the direct sun. We advise customers to place staghorn ferns in the room with the most light since the plant won’t tolerate direct sunlight. Rooms with Southern and Eastern exposures tend to be ideal, though unobstructed North windows will do. Being cautious is advised because this afternoon exposure tends to be hot and harsh. Western light is fine.
Unfortunately, the quick answer is no. We don’t advocate putting your staghorn in a room without natural sun. Typically, basements are off limits.
- Use a spray container, such as a brass mister, that produces a fine, ambient mist.
- Mist the entire plant, paying special attention to the shield and antler frond undersides.
- Face down in a sink or basin of water, soak your staghorn fern for about five minutes, or until the roots are completely submerged.
- Another option is to submerge the root ball in room temperature water by placing the plaque in a sink or shower.
- Before rehanging, let your plant drip dry completely.
The most frequent reasons why staghorn ferns fail are both inadequate and excessive watering. The quantity of light, humidity, and heat that staghorn ferns receive in your home will determine how frequently you need water them; there is no hard and fast rule for this. However, the following guidelines typically work well for us:
- Water plants once every week during dry, hot months and once every two to three weeks during cooler months. Start with this routine and make any required adjustments based on your surroundings.
- Staghorn ferns take in water through both their roots and fronds. This indicates that they enjoy humid environments and respond well to sprinkling.
- Less watering if there is more humidity. You can definitely lessen your misting and watering if your staghorn fern is in a room with high ambient humidity, such a bathroom.
- Watering increases with heat or light. Summertime is the time to pay close attention to your stag. There is a limit to how much drought most organisms can tolerate before wilting. Regularly spray your plant throughout the summer and fall, and examine the moss at the plant’s base for dryness.
- Less watering results from less heat or light. Keep in mind that these plants cannot withstand excessive moisture. You’ll probably need to water your plants less frequently in the winter. But keep in mind that if your plant sits right next to a fireplace or a heating vent, it will dry up more quickly.
- Overwatering is indicated if the antler fronds start to darken or blacken at the base. Water the plant only once a month until it begins to recover.
- Under-watering is indicated if the antler frond tips start to discolor or wilt. As necessary, increase watering.
Compared to other staghorn fern species, moosehorn ferns (Plateceryium grande) are slightly more prone to root rot and more drought tolerant.
We advise placing the plant under a faucet and running the water so that it flows on the board behind the plant for about three minutes when the soil or moss at the base of the plant feels dry (if no moss is exposed, judge by weight).
Try to keep the foliage from getting damp. Overwatering is indicated if a black patch emerges on the flat shield frond. To ensure that the plant can dry out properly after watering, try reducing the amount you water it and enhancing air circulation. This is particularly crucial in the winter.
Staghorn ferns are surprisingly cold-hardy, although it’s best to keep the temperature between 50 and 100 degrees for optimum growth.
When temperatures are in this range, staghorn ferns can be grown outside. When hung outside, take additional care to keep staghorns well-watered and away of the sun. When it gets chilly at night, bring your staghorn fern back inside.