Thanksgiving cactus, holiday cactus, and crab cactus are all names for the Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata). The leaf-shaped stem segments with curled, sharp teeth or claws around the margins are known as crab claws. The leaf segments of the Easter cactus (Schlumbergera buckleyi) have rounded edges. They all originated in the gloomy, damp forests of southeast Brazil. They’re called epiphytes because they thrive on trees above ground, in places where branches meet and decomposing fallen leaves and mosses collect.
Despite the fact that this plant is called a cactus, the care it requires has little to do with its desert cousins. It’s a cactus that grows in the forest. Its requirements can be traced back to their source. The optimum time to plant a Christmas cactus is when it is warm “I’m stuck in a pot.” This entails keeping it in a small container for as long as possible before transferring it to a little larger pot. They prefer a nutrient-dense organic potting mix and should not be allowed to dry out. When the plant is blossoming, increase the amount of water it receives. They enjoy indirect light that is bright. As the plants begin to burn, the leaf segments might turn a dark crimson color.
‘The’ “The “trick” to getting your Christmas cactus to bloom in the years after you buy it boils down to two factors: light and temperature. These two are the keys to the kingdom of flowers. Flowers are produced by Christmas cacti in a cool, short-day cycle. It takes at least eight days of 16 hours of darkness and 8 hours of light every day to start the creation of flower buds. Do not turn on the lights at night, even if only for a brief time, wherever the plant is put. This breaks the required dark cycle. It should be around 61 degrees Fahrenheit. Avoid placing the plant in an area where it will be exposed to cold or hot air drafts.
It’s as simple as putting the Christmas cactus on the window sill in a chilly room and not turning on the lights. If the plant was in a brightly lit room, the side closest to the window often develops buds, but the plant’s lighted side does not. If the plant produces flower buds but then loses them, it’s usually due to either too much or too little water or a lack of air humidity. The good news is that if their temperature and light needs are met, Christmas cacti are reasonably straightforward to re-bloom.
Where should I put my Christmas cactus?
Throughout the winter and spring, holiday cacti are extremely popular gifts, and they can be found in just about any store that sells plants, from the grocery store to the flower shop. Holiday cactus are eye-catching with their succulent leaves and vivid blossoms in a variety of colors, and they find their way into the homes of both expert and novice houseplant aficionados. They can live for decades if properly cared for, and are frequently passed down from generation to generation.
Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi), Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), and Easter cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri) are three distinct types that are typically available at retail stores depending on the season “The term “Christmas cactus” is frequently used to refer to all of them. It’s easier to refer to all three as holiday cacti for the sake of convenience, given they require fairly comparable care.
Regardless, “Despite the fact that “cactus” is in their name, holiday cacti require very different care than their desert-dwelling siblings. Holiday cactus are epiphytes that grow on the shady limbs of trees in the tropical rainforests of Brazil. Epiphytes are plants that grow atop other plants rather than in the soil, relying on the air and rain for moisture and nutrients.
As a result, unlike other cacti, holiday cacti do not endure prolonged dehydration. Once the potting soil is dry to the touch, they should be watered, allowing excess water to drain freely from the bottom of the container. Allowing plants to sit in standing water will cause the soil to become waterlogged. Root rot can be caused by prolonged exposure to wet soil, especially during the winter months.
Watering holiday cacti is dependent on a number of factors, including the type of potting soil used, the size of the container, the amount of sunlight the plant receives, and the ambient temperature. The key to sustaining a healthy plant is to make sure it’s in the appropriate spot and to only water when the soil mix is completely dry.
Holiday cacti thrive in partial shade, such as an east or west facing window, and at temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Too much strong sunshine, especially during the summer months, can burn the foliage, while insufficient light can stifle growth and cause the soil mix to dry up too slowly. When in doubt, go with the under-watering method rather than the over-watering method.
How do you take care of a Christmas cactus indoors?
- Watering: Mist your plant frequently while it is blooming to keep the soil uniformly moist.
- Light: For moderate light and some direct sun, place the cactus in an east-facing window.
- Fertilize every two weeks once buds have formed with a high-potassium fertilizer.
Do you water a Christmas cactus from the top or bottom?
Remember that Christmas cactus plants demand moist soil rather than the dry dirt preferred by most other succulents. When the top inch or two of soil on a Christmas cactus is dry, water it. Fill the pot saucer with stones and water to just below the tops of the pebbles (the pot should not be sitting directly in water) to assist improve the humidity around your plant. As the water evaporates, the air will become more humid. (See below for watering suggestions if you’re attempting to get your Christmas cactus to rebloom.)
Can Christmas cactus grow in shade?
- If you’re going to put a Christmas cactus in a pot, be sure it has a drainage hole on the bottom. This prevents the soil from being overly damp.
- Most succulent-specific potting mixes are suitable for Christmas cacti. What matters is that your potting soil drains properly.
Where to Put a Christmas Cactus
- Plants should be kept in indirect light that is bright. A bright bathroom or an east-facing window are ideal. The fragile leaves might be bleached by too much direct sunshine.
- It is ideal to have a daytime temperature of 70°F (21°C) and a nighttime temperature of 60-65°F (15-18°C).
- Christmas cacti enjoy a humid climate, so keeping them in a light bathroom or kitchen is a smart idea.
- Christmas cacti can be kept in a shady spot in the garden or on an unheated porch until the temperature drops below 50°F (10°C) in the summer. Keep them away from direct sunlight.
What conditions do Christmas cactus like?
Schlumbergera can be found in jungle-like forests connected to trees in their natural habitat. They prefer a semi-shade environment versus the full light of desert-dwelling cacti. A well-lit, but out of direct sunlight, environment with a humid atmosphere would be ideal. Use gravel-filled saucers to place your plants on and keep them moist to improve humidity.
To sustain healthy growth, repot once a year (or at least every two years). This can be done at the end of March, when their growing season begins. To help with drainage, use a standard cactus compost or a loam-based compost like John Innes No 2 with added leafmould (or peat substitute) and grit. Choose only a slightly larger container for potting on, as they prefer to be tight in a compact pot.
Aftercare
- A time of rest is required after blossoming. Restrict the temperature to 12-15°C (55-59°F) and reduce the watering to only once or twice a week from late January to late March to avoid the compost drying up altogether. Moving to a cooler environment is a simple way to accomplish this.
- Increase the watering and start feeding with a houseplant liquid feed during the growing season, which runs from April to September. Maintain a temperature of 18-20°C (65-69°F) during the growing season if possible.
- They can be placed outside throughout the summer months, once the risk of frost has passed. This promotes flowering and helps to ripen new growth. Keep them in a shady area away from snails.
- With the shorter days and cooler temperatures, flowering buds begin to form around mid-September. With a second resting period, the watering and temperature should be reduced (as before). Increase the temperature to 18-20°C (65-69°F) and begin regular watering just until the flowering buds have formed.
- After that, your plant should bloom and provide you with a stunning display. If there are two resting periods with a reduction in watering and temperature, exact temperatures are not required to encourage flowering.
How do I know if my Christmas cactus is dying?
A wilted, limp, drooping Christmas cactus with root rot will show wilted, limp, sagging growth, but an examination of the roots will reveal the truth.
Remove the plant from its pot with care. The roots of a rot-affected cactus will be blackened at the tips. The decaying Christmas cactus roots will be sticky with black or brown decomposition, depending on the severity of the disease.
If you see that your Christmas cactus is rotting, you must act quickly. Rot is a fatal disease, and the only way to save the plant once it has progressed is to discard it and start over. You can generate a new plant using a leaf from a healthy area of the plant.
Should I mist my Christmas cactus?
Christmas cacti, contrary to popular belief, may live much beyond the month of December. With a little TLC and some advice from us, they can live for up to 20 years.
Christmas Cacti need cooler temperatures.
If you keep your Christmas cacti in a room that’s between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit, they’ll bloom more and faster. It’s especially vital to keep them away from radiators, fires, and warm windowsills in the winter.
While they don’t need the heat of the sun, they do need its light.
This is when things get a little complicated. The sun will dry up a Christmas cactus if it is left in direct sunlight, although it does require lots of sunlight. So, what should a cactus enthusiast do? Leave it in a partially shaded area of your house (or outside once summer arrives) and rotate it every now and then.
Just like you and I, Christmas cacti need their rest.
If the buds on your cactus haven’t set yet, it will require 1215 hours of complete darkness per day. Cacti thrive in bright light only after their buds have set.
You should be misting, not watering, every day.
Your cactus will die if it is overwatered. That isn’t to suggest they don’t become thirsty. You should mist your cactus every day instead of watering it like you would a traditional plant. All you need is a few squirts from a spray bottle to keep your cactus happy. Watering the plant’s base should only be done when the soil is absolutely dry to the touch.
Christmas cacti need nutrient-rich soil.
Christmas cactus are resilient plants that may thrive in a variety of soils, but they need well-drained, somewhat organic matter-rich soil. While you can always buy organic soil, you may also use your cacti as a little compost and add organic materials that would otherwise be discarded.
How can you tell if a Christmas cactus is overwatered?
The health of any cactus that has been allowed to sit in a saucer full of water is likely to suffer. A Christmas cactus plant that has been overwatered will display evident indications of discomfort. If the saucer hasn’t dried in one day, dump the excess water to avoid moisture gnats and root rot.
If you don’t remember to water your Christmas cactus, one of the first signs of overwatering is limp leaves that begin to fall off. The stems and branches will soften and become mushy as a result. In severe cases, the stem will rot completely off and emit a foul odor.
It’s easy to avoid. To avoid over-watering your Christmas cactus, use a soil meter.
Why are the leaves on my Christmas cactus limp?
A lack of water or too much direct sunlight can create wilted or limp Christmas cactus. If you haven’t watered the wilting Christmas cactus, start by giving it a small sip. Continue to water gently every several days until the soil is wet but not saturated.
Christmas cactus troubles are sometimes caused by damp soil. Because the Christmas cactus is an epiphyte that takes water and nutrients from the air in its natural habitat on the tropical forest floor, it cannot tolerate damp roots. Christmas cactus can become very limp due to poor drainage and soggy roots.
If the leaves on your wilted or limp Christmas cactus appear to be dried or burnt, move it to a more shady location, especially in the afternoon.