How To Start Geranium Seeds

  • Put moistened potting soil into your pots or planting cells. A size of roughly 2-3″ is good. You will eventually need to “pot up” your seedlings. In other words, once they have around three sets of leaves and the roots have filled the beginning pot, you will transplant them to a larger pot. Despite the fact that starting with a bigger pot might seem sensible, it is not. Close quarters seem to benefit seedlings.
  • One tiny seed should be placed in each pot, and it should be covered with a thin layer of moistened soil. Put a piece of plastic wrap over the pots or, if using a seed starting, place the transparent cover on top.
  • Put the entire setup in a warm location with strong, indirect light. Consider placing geranium seeds on top of a refrigerator or using a Heat Mat as 75 degrees Fahrenheit is the ideal temperature for germination. If the soil surface becomes dry, sprinkle it with water using a mister.
  • Keep an eye out for germination, which can occur in as little as three days or as long as four. Remove the covering as soon as you notice the first green sprouts, and if the soil appears dry, wet it.
  • Place the little plants in a location that receives plenty of sunlight and has temperatures that don’t drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit at night and in the 70s during the day. Grow lights are preferred even though you can grow them on a bright, south-facing window. As the plants grow, make adjustments to keep the bulbs no higher than 6″ above them. Twelve to sixteen hours a day, keep the lights on.
  • At this point, you should start fertilizing once a week with liquid fertilizer that has been diluted in half.
  • Transfer the seedlings to a 3-1/2″ to 4″ pot once they have three sets of leaves. Self-watering Pop Out Pots are ideal, but anything up to 4″ will do.

This allows the roots to spread even more, according to Valerie. “Additionally, there is more room between the plants, allowing air to circulate. Plants that are overcrowded are more prone to illness.” Use caution while recycling old soil because it may contain pests and diseases. Use new potting soil, such as our sterile, freely draining Transplant Mix. Continue fertilizing the seedlings, but make sure to mix it thoroughly and use the appropriate amount per packet. Valerie comments, “I prefer our Plant Health Care fertilizer.

  • It’s time to “harden off” the seedlings once it’s no longer frosty outside. Simply acclimating plants to outside circumstances is hardening off. Indoor seedlings have been spoiled; you’ve been providing them with the ideal conditions for light, moisture, and nutrients. With changing temperatures, light levels, soil moisture, and wind, outside circumstances are more difficult. Start hardening off the seedlings a week before you intend to plant them in the garden. For a few hours, keep them in a safe outdoor location (partially shaded, away from the wind), then bring them inside at night. Expose them to greater and more sunlight and wind over the course of a week to ten days.