Hellebores can be planted at any time between March and August so they have time to grow roots and bloom in the late winter. When you are prepared to sow your hellebores:
- 1. Decide where to plant. Hellebores thrive in the chilly, late-winter months and, once the summer sun arrives, prefer partial shade to full shade. Under a deciduous tree, which allows them to absorb winter light when the tree’s branches are bare and become shaded after the leaves grow back in the spring, is the best location for hellebore blossoms. If you decide to plant your hellebores somewhere else, pick a shade garden or another location that will shield them from intense summer sun. Gardeners can get a better view of the plant’s downward-facing blooms by planting on a slightly elevated area, either by mounding up the soil or by planting on a hill.
- 2. Get the dirt ready. Loamy, well-draining soil with a high organic content is preferred by hellebores. Compost or other organic matter can be used to improve the soil, but fertilizer should not be applied right soon because it can burn the roots while they are still fragile from the transplanting process.
- 3. Fill the voids. Dig a hole just as deep as the pot to avoid burying the root crowns of hellebores plants, as they are susceptible to decay when buried. To allow the plants room to grow, place your holes roughly 15 inches apart.
- 4. Start the hellebores. Always use gloves when handling hellebores because they are slightly poisonous and can cause minor skin irritation. Squeeze the pot while turning the plant on its side to free it from the container. Place the roots in the hole and fill it with soil if the root ball is particularly compacted. If so, use your fingers to gently soften the soil.
- 5. Drink some water now. To compact the dirt and hydrate your plant, water the roots.
Are hellebore plants bulbs or seeds?
In the spring, the lovely hellebore plants (Helleborus spp.) typically produce seeds. When the blooms have finished, usually in late spring or early summer, seed pods begin to develop.
You might be tempted to put off sowing hellebore seeds until the following spring or even until October. However, this is a mistake because putting off planting can stop hellebore seed from growing.
How do hellebore seeds spread?
To summarize, there are three ways to multiply hellebore plants: by seed, by division, or by micropropagation.
The home gardener can benefit from two of the three techniques:
- Seed
- Division
The characteristics of a seed may differ from a parent and it may not generate true. This is true for both seeds you purchase and those you collect from your own plants.
By using these techniques, you may elevate your gardening to a whole new level and plant your own-propagated late-winter hellebores in the beds.
Do hellebores return annually?
Hybrid hellebores can tolerate a broad range of growth situations, but they thrive in rich, moist, but well-draining soil when planted in partial shade. Hellebores are rather simple to grow and, as perennials, will bloom for a number of years.
Hellebore planting tips:
- To properly enjoy the downward-facing blooms of hellebore plants, many gardeners prefer to put them on a hillside or in raised flower beds. Here’s a great illustration of this planting technique: A box of winter jewels.
- Shake off the potting soil and untie any constrained roots before transplanting hellebores straight from their nursery containers.
- Planting hellebores too deeply can prevent them from producing flowers, so take care. Make sure the plant’s crown is barely visible above the dirt.
Do hellebore seeds self-seed?
Hellebores are dependable and simple to grow in any garden. Depending on the type, most hellebores are low-growing plants that grow to a height of around 3-.5m and bloom from December through May. Hellebores offer a broad variety of flower colors, including several with lovely speckles inside the petals. These colors include all shades of red, crimson, delicate pinks, various shades of yellow, and white. Helleborus argutifolius, often known as the Corsican hellebore, is a brilliant green variation of the plant.
Hellebores are a rapidly evolving group of plants due to the constant development of new hybrids and the availability of dozens of exquisite variations with richer colors, double petals, and even more erect flower heads.
In order to distinguish it from Helleborus Niger, the Christmas rose, which blooms earlier, Helleborus hybridus, formerly known as H. orientalis, is the kind of hellebore that is most frequently offered for sale.
H. ‘Christmas Carol,’ seen bottom right, and H. ‘Verboom beauty,’ which begins to bloom in December, are two of the earliest flowering varieties. Many Hellebores will self-seed in the garden and grow into clumps like those shown in the top left photograph. The majority of the common Helleborus types are modest, growing up to about half a meter, making them ideal for front-of-the-border plants, woodland settings, and as ground cover. Hellebores are perfect for growing on a bank because they have delicate blossoms and because many types have nodding flower heads that hang down. Although they can become semi-evergreen or deciduous in harsh winters, hellebores are typically evergreen.
The more unique Hellebore is H. “Corsican,” which, as its name suggests, is from Corsica. It is green with leathery leaves, evergreen, and taller than the other Hellebores at around 1.2 meters (4 feet), as shown in the illustration in the center.
How are hellebore plants multiplied?
I inherited a yard with a sizable collection of hellebores ten years ago; they ranged from milky white to yellow, pink with flecks, to the deepest burgundy. They flourish in this soggy Welsh garden, which receives plenty of summer light but a lot of winter gloom.
Hellebores put on a fantastic display in the late winter and early spring, but their enormous, spreading leaves do make them a big space-eater in the summer. It is advisable to perform a hellebore “audit” to make sure they are making a profit for this reason.
How to handle hellebores
The greatest season for a hellebore audit is spring, when the blooms are in full bloom. Think about where you have your hellebores planted. Additionally, consider whether the color is appropriate. Perhaps the borders are gradually becoming a neutral pink color. The plant Helleborus orientalis is promiscuous. It produces a large number of hybrid seedlings since it produces large amounts of seed and doesn’t care who it crosses with.
The prized double dark beauty I had spotted in Tyntesfield a few years ago has finally taken up residence outside my basement window, where I can enjoy the multi-petalled silk blossoms while doing the dishes. There are numerous seedlings all around it that could potentially crowd out the mother plant. It’s tough to tell if these are kids with the dark double gene or if they are yet another mid pink hybrid from a cross with a controlling neighbor.
The solution won’t be known for several years because the children won’t blossom until they are considerably older. So now is the time to pay for them, pot them up, and give them to your neighbors who are willing to take a chance.
How to divide hellebores
There are alternative, more expedient ways to add more hellebores to your collection while still knowing exactly what you are getting. If you are careful, this family does split fairly well. Just after flowering is an excellent time to do this, while you can still clearly recall what color they are!
I always remove the leaves from mine in the dead of winter to highlight the blossoms when they appear and reduce the possibility of the dreaded black spot. You must be careful not to injure them when you raise and split them in April since they are just starting to put out new leaves.
Hellebores are best separated with two hand forks inserted into their crowns because they have a lot of thick, fibrous roots. Make sure each part is sprouting some fresh leaves. Depending on the size of the clump you dig up, you could be able to double, treble, or even quadruple your supply.
I favor getting these divisions back into the border immediately where you see a hole that has to be filled in rather than patching them up. Place them where you can admire the flowers—perhaps on a bank, by some steps, or outside that basement window—a true sign of spring as we stay indoors during the bitterly cold winter.
What happens to hellebores after they flower?
Depending on the variety, plant hellebores in full or partial shade at the front of a border. They can be grown in pots in a compost with a loam basis, but they thrive in rich, well-drained soil.
When to plant hellebores
As long as the soil is not frozen, hellebores can be planted at any time of the year. The majority of hellebores are listed for sale from late winter to early spring when they are in bloom, but you might locate one in a garden center’s clearance section in the summer that you can plant with no issues. Keep in mind that hellebores detest being moved after being planted, so avoid doing so.
How to plant hellebores
Hellebores should be planted in the same way as other perennials, with a spadeful of garden compost and a sprinkle of mycorrhizal fungi to aid in the plant’s establishment. Water thoroughly and gently press in.
Watch Monty Don’s instructional video on planting and growing hellebores to learn about planting depth, soil preparation, and how to prevent leaf spot disease. Additionally, Monty discusses how to select the best flowers for immediate effect and displays the variety of his collection of hellebores:
How to care for hellebores
When blossoms and new foliage appear, trim back the thick, leathery leaves, and mulch the plants every year with well-rotted compost or manure. Once established, hellebores struggle to be moved, therefore try to avoid doing so.
How to propagate hellebores
Avoid dividing hellebores since they struggle to be transported. In order to develop new plants for nothing, gather ripe seed and sow it into modules. Alternately, allow the hellebores in your garden to self-seed. By letting them self-seed at random, you’ll produce a hodge-podge of various colors and flower shapes; you might even develop your own new hybrid! No hellebore seedling will be true to its parents.
Growing hellebores: problem-solving
Leaf spot, a fungus infection that causes unattractive brown and black patches on the leaves, is the major foe of hellebores. When you see damaged foliage, remove it.
Here, Monty Don shows how to recognize hellebore leaf spot and describes how to prevent it from spreading to other plants:
Advice on buying hellebores
- Garden centers sell hellebores, but you can get a broader selection at specialized nurseries and online
- Avoid double-flowered hellebores if you are growing for bees because single-flowered plants are the best for pollinators.
Hellebores should be pruned back after flowering, right?
Before the flower pods split, I always remove all of the flower stems. Last but not least, it’s common advice to divide your hardy perennials every three years and replant the healthiest pieces in better soil.
Can hellebores be grown from a cutting?
The hellebore is one of the best plants for late winter to early spring blooming. Hellebores are the ideal plant for moist, gloomy areas because of their hardy, deeply cut leaves and delicately colored blossoms. Their bell-shaped blooms, which linger for a month or more, give the plant a soft air of elegance.
Species-specific variations exist in hellebore propagation techniques. While oriental hybrids are typically divided to guarantee new plants are true to the parent, the stinking hellebores are best grown from seed.
Try both hellebore propagation techniques if you are unsure of the type of plant you have. The plants can be classified as stemmed or caulescent or stemless, or both. While the latter produces leaves off of pre-existing stems, the former produces leaves from the basal growth.
Only plants without stems can be divided. Those would be the oriental hybrids, whilst seeded examples of the stinking hellebores (Hellebore foetidus or Hellebore argutifolius) thrive.
Hellebore division is a reasonably simple method of propagation. Early in the spring, tie the leaves together and excavate the area surrounding and beneath the roots. The rhizomes can be gently separated with a pair of garden forks. Immediately plant each fresh segment, and as they grow, give them consistent moisture. Before the plants blossom, they can take a year to recover.
Can I split up a hellebore?
The best moment to divide a hellebore is when you are already moving it, even though you should only move them when required. In September or October is the ideal time to transplant and/or divide hellebores. The optimal time to divide hellebores is just before their autumn root growth spurt, which occurs about this time each year. This enables the rapid establishment of new roots in the plants that have just been divided.
When transferring hellebores, you should dig up the entire plant in an 8-inch-deep circle that is six inches from the outermost leaves if you want to divide the plants. Once it is freed, raise the plant off the ground, wash the crown to remove any dirt, and then use a sharp knife to cut between the growth buds so you can see what you are doing. The plant will heal faster if you leave at least three buds in each division. A least of one bud, ideally two or three, some woody rhizome tissue, and some developing roots are required for each new division. The next step is to plant each tiny transplant with lots of organic debris in a spot that is somewhat shaded and to water it well.
After that, mulch the transplants with a layer of compost or leaf mulch and keep watering them until they are established.
Hellebore rhizomes are they?
Different Helleborus species can be identified by the way their above-ground shoot production differs. The stems and rhizomes of the two main groupings are different.
The bottom of the stem and the thickened, lignified hypocotyl (stem of a germination seedling) are where the rhizomes of the stemmed (caulescent) species grow. In order to branch, the bottom stem sprouts new shoots from axillary buds. On top of the primary roots, several species generate secondary roots. Divisional reproduction is not possible for the stemmed species.
The primary root of acaulescent (stemless) species perishes as the seedling grows into an adult plant. On the fresh side shoots of the rhizome, the plants develop new adventitious roots every year. Old roots have thick, meaty skin that is frequently dark or black in color. Lenten Roses and their progenitors are considered to be an acaulescent species. By division, they are typically fairly simple to multiply.
Should fall be the time to prune hellebores?
Early spring or late winter, just as the new growth starts to show, is the perfect time to prune a hellebore plant. This new growth ought to emerge from the earth as little stalks. These stalks ought to still be encircled by a ring of the large leaves from the previous year. The old leaves may very likely have been harmed by the winter’s cold and appear a little worn-down.
These old leaves can be removed as soon as the new growth develops by chopping them off at the base. You don’t need to prune your older foliage as long as it is healthy and undamaged, but once the new growth begins to leaf out, you’ll need to make room for it by pruning the older growth. If you wait too long to remove the old growth, it will tangle up with the new growth and be much more difficult to remove.
Hellebores can be eaten by snails and slugs as well, and the thick foliage provides them with wet, hidden hiding places.