Mophead hydrangeas and lacecap hydrangeas, commonly known as bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla), are pruned using the same technique.
With its broad, roundish heads of huge petals in colours of blue, pink, green, and white, mophead hydrangeas are a popular choice for gardens. They are therefore a popular shrub option for cottage garden ideas and are also effective shade-giving bushes.
Small blooms in the centre of the bloom and a border of bigger petals on the outside help identify lacecap hydrangeas.
The experts at Thompson & Morgan suggest that in order to winterize hydrangeas, “it’s better to leave the faded blooms in place over the winter to safeguard vulnerable new buds from frost damage.”
Early in the spring, while pruning lacecaps and mophead hydrangeas:
- To promote new growth that will produce better blooms, remove one or two of the plant’s oldest, weakest stems at the base.
- Just above a pair of buds, carefully remove any old flowerheads using secateurs.
- Don’t remove any of the blossom buds, please.
- Cut the stems down to the plant’s root system if the bigleaf hydrangea shrub has been neglected and has a lot of overlapping, tangled branches. The hydrangea won’t blossom until the next year, though.
Pruning mophead hydrangeas
Mophead hydrangeas bloom from buds that were created the year before. To avoid chopping off flower buds, they just need deadheading and very little pruning.
Mophead hydrangeas should not be pruned until late spring since the old flowerheads provide some shelter from late frosts for the young buds.
- Cut back to the first pair of robust buds beneath each flowerhead while deadheading any old flowerheads.
- Remove any stems that are crossing, dead, or damaged.
- To encourage the plant to develop new growth, prune one or two old stems down to the ground on older plants.
Pruning lacecap hydrangeas
Lacecap hydrangeas are maintained similarly to mophead hydrangeas and bloom on buds that have developed over the previous year. Mophead hydrangeas need to be clipped in the spring, whereas lacecap hydrangeas can be pruned in the fall.
- Cut back to the second pair of buds beneath each flowerhead while deadheading all old flowerheads.
Pruning Hydrangea paniculata and Hydrangea arborescens
Both of these species need new growth to produce flowers, therefore prune them in the early spring to encourage the emergence of new stems carrying flowers.
- Remove any damaged or crossed branches as well as any dead timber.
- Cut the stems from last year’s plant by roughly a third, just above a pair of robust, healthy buds.
Pruning climbing hydrangeas
Because climbing hydrangeas take a while to take off, pruning is typically unnecessary for the first two to three years following planting. Once they do begin to grow, they can develop into very vivacious plants that can grow as tall as 10 m (32 ft), therefore it’s a good idea to cut them each year to keep them in check.
- To reduce the chance of removing any future flower buds, prune as soon as possible after summer flowering.
- Cut back any exceptionally long, straggling shoots to a pair of lower, strong, healthy buds. Since the majority of the blossoms will grow at the plant’s top, try not to remove too much of it.
A mature climbing hydrangea can be pruned in the spring to make it smaller. Hard trimming won’t harm climbing hydrangeas, but it will probably result in less flowers for a year or two following. To lessen the stress on the plant, if you are drastically shrinking the size of the plant, do so gradually over two or three years.
Other hydrangea varieties, such Hydrangea aspera and the oak-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia), just require a mild spring pruning to maintain size, give the plants a pleasing form, and remove any dead wood.
It’s fairly easy to prune hydrangeas, and the benefits are well worth the work. If you follow our detailed instructions, your borders will be covered in blooms this summer.
How should a hydrangea’s mop head be pruned?
First and first, it’s crucial to understand that mophead hydrangeas never need to be cut back, unless they are quite old. The only pruning necessary for the plant’s health is the removal of dead stems, which can be done whenever you like. Additionally, dead blooms can always be removed.
However, if your hydrangea is getting much too big (or old) and has to be pruned, utilise one of the techniques listed below.
If you have mophead or lacecap hydrangeas (the only varieties that are often blue or pink) or oakleaf hydrangeas, use Method One (leaves shaped like large oak leaves, white blooms).
If you have paniculatas (PeeGees) or “Annabelle,” use Method Two (arborescens). PeeGee and smooth hydrangeas have white blooms.
What time should I trim my mophead?
Determine the type of hydrangea you have before you begin pruning. The blossoms from the following year could be lost if you prune at the incorrect time! See our suggestions and hydrangea pruning schedules by variety.
Pruning at the incorrect time is one of the most frequent causes of hydrangeas not flowering. For guidance on when to prune your garden’s hydrangeas, refer to the chart below. While some varieties should be left alone until after their summer bloom, others should be clipped in the late winter.
Photos and Tips by Hydrangea Variety
Bigleaf or macrophylla hydrangeas, such as mophead and lacecap hydrangeas, can both be pruned immediately following flowering by pruning back the flowering shoots to the next bud. Cut up to a third of the stems off at the base of older plants in late summer if they aren’t blooming well to promote new growth.
Bigleaf Hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla)
Both fresh and old wood can support several hydrangea hybrids. My hardy from zones 4 to 9 mophead hydrangea, “Endless Summer,” has the great property of blooming on both old and new wood. Hydrangeas from Endless Summer do best in early light and afternoon shade. Since they bloom on both old and new growth, Endless Summer Hydrangea don’t require pruning; however, if you do need to cut back, do it right away after flowering. In the spring, merely remove the dead stems.
My other blue hydrangea is a lacecap variety called “Let’s Dance Starlight,” but it bears a flat blossom made up of numerous small, fertile flowers surrounded by a few showy, sterile blossoms as opposed to the enormous, mophead-type flower cluster that “Endless Summer” possesses. It blooms on both old and young wood and is hardy from Zones 5 to 9. Pruning is typically not necessary, however it can be lightly clipped after the first flowering, similar to Endless Summer.
Panicle Hydrangeas (H. paniculata)
The panicle-type hydrangeas are those that are cultivated most frequently in cooler locations since they are not only lovely but also highly hardy, easily surviving winters in Zone 3. The “Grandiflora,” commonly known as the Pee Gee hydrangea, is one of the most enduring and dependable favourites. It was the first cultivar of Asian hydrangea to be brought to the United States, in 1862. It is native to China and Japan. They enjoyed great popularity in the Victorian era. The flowers are initially creamy white and mature to a rosy pink. They can be dried, and a winter arrangement with them looks great. Here is information on drying these beautiful hydrangeas.
There are numerous varieties of panicles available. One of them is called “Pinky Winky,” and it has long, cone-shaped white and pink flowers. Another is called “Vanilla Strawberry,” and it has panicles that are white at the tip, pink in the middle, and red at the base. Try “Limelight,” which features chartreuse blossoms that gradually turn pink in the fall, for something new.
Hydrangeas with a panicle-like shape need to be clipped in late winter to prevent overgrowth.
Smooth Hydrangeas (H. arborescens)
Native to North America, smooth hydrangeas were first discovered growing freely in Pennsylvania. They tolerate light shade, start blooming in June, and keep blooming until the end of the growing season. They have spherical, white blossoms that can grow to be 12 inches in diameter.
Popular cultivar “Annabelle” can be used to brighten a dim road or as a mass planting at the edge of a forest because it grows to a height of 3 to 5 feet. Zone 3 is its hardiness zone.
Oakleaf Hydrangeas (H. quercifolia)
Another indigenous plant to North America is the oak-leaf hydrangea, which was first found in Georgia in 1773.
Although it enjoys full sun, swamp snowball is hardy to zone 5 and may tolerate light shade while still blooming. It starts to bloom in August, a little later than the other hydrangeas. It produces enormous panicles of blooms that emerge white and mature to a dark pink colour. The deeply lobed leaves, which resemble an oak leaf, turn a deep crimson scarlet in the fall.
Although oak-leaf hydrangeas don’t require much pruning, you can tidy them up by removing the dead stems at the base in the early spring.
Learn More
Our page on All Hydrangea Varieties (with photographs!) will help you identify your hydrangea if you’re still confused.
For all your queries about planting, growing, and trimming hydrangeas, feel free to use our free comprehensive guide!
Do mophead hydrangeas bloom on old wood?
The variety that forms buds on “aged wood” is the one that is most frequently discovered in gardens. This comprises varieties of Mophead, Big Leaf, and Lacecap hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla), as well as the Oakleaf variety (H. quercifolia). On aged wood, they all create blossoms.
Can hydrangeas be pruned in February?
Depending on which group the plant belongs to, the timing and extent of pruning are determined:
Advice on Pruning for Group 1:
- As the days get shorter and the weather gets colder in the late summer and fall, buds for the following year’s blooms start to form.
- Typically, removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches is all that is required to preserve shape, size, and a healthy plant. Otherwise, gentle pruning ought to be practised.
- In the summer, trimming should begin as soon as flowering ends, but no later than August 1. Pruning should not be done in the fall, winter, or spring because you risk removing fresh buds.
- Tip-pruning the branches in the spring as the leaves begin to appear can promote more numerous, smaller flower heads as opposed to fewer, larger flower heads.
Advice on Pruning for Group 2:
- On the growth of the current year, flower buds form.
- Early in the spring, as the leaves are starting to emerge, prune.
- Just above a node, prune branches back by half to a third.
- After that, prune any fragile or spindly branches.
- Minimal trimming encourages huge, strong bushes with many of tiny flower heads in H. arborescens. Hard pruning between 12 and 18 inches from the ground, or even all the way down, will result in fewer but larger flower heads that may flop if unsupported.
- For H. paniculata, remove the surrounding smaller wood while leaving the larger stems in order to establish a sturdy foundation.
Pruning may be connected to flower head size. Shoots will grow more vigorously and flower heads will be bigger and fewer with more rigorous trimming. Smaller but more numerous flower heads may result from less aggressive or tip pruning.
Consideration of hydrangeas’ mature size is the best piece of advise. Place them in a location where they won’t outgrow and won’t need a lot of pruning to keep them in check. Hydrangeas don’t need to be pruned precisely or often; as long as dead wood is removed, they will remain healthy and continue to develop and bloom.
How are mop tops pruned?
A completely original landscape tool is a mop top. When compared to other regular or topiary trees, they are inexpensive to create and, as a result, are quite affordable to buy. They don’t need much upkeep to keep their attractive, classically groomed appearance. The Mop Top is particularly resilient and does well in adverse conditions such as wind, heat, drought, cold, pollution, and poor soils. The Mop Top is perfect for planting in limited spaces or establishing avenues in places where conventional trees won’t fit because it naturally grows small.
Planting mop tops along your fence line to provide a privacy screen above the fence while leaving space for a colourful under planting is a popular landscape idea. Deep-rooted legumes like mop tops enable the growth of nearby grass, flowers, and shrubs.
If you place many mop tops in the same conditions, they will all grow to be almost the same size.
When the head is young, tiny, and extremely dense, mop tops look their best. When this happens, cut your Mop Top back extremely sharply with a saw or powerful trimmers. After a few years, their heads can become a little large or open. By winter-pruning your mop top, you’ll have a new, lush head by late spring. Mop Tops would often only need to be reduced every several years. You can keep your mop tops small if you are growing them in a very small space by trimming severely each year.
Although Mop Tops are quite resilient, they are not unbreakable. Mop Tops need a lot of sunshine when they are planted, as well as moderate to good drainage. Avoid planting them in areas that are too compact or swampy, especially in the shade of trees or structures.
Should I remove the brown blooms on my hydrangea?
Your hydrangea shrubs’ blossoms appear to be withering or turning brown. No need to worry—this is merely a signal that it’s time to deadhead—remove the blossoms from the plant.
Deadheading hydrangeas doesn’t cause any damage to the plants at all. Flowering shrubs stop producing seeds when the spent blooms are removed, and instead focus their efforts on developing their roots and leaves. You will be doing your hydrangeas a favour by deadheading because this strengthens and makes plants healthier.