Zinnia seeds can still be planted now for late summer color that will endure until the first frost. Additionally, they produce stunning cut flowers with a lengthy vase life.
Even the most inexperienced gardener should grow zinnias because they are one of the tried-and-true garden flowers. My first memories of gardening are when I first encountered zinnias. The bush beans and tomatoes set aside for zinnias were a constant source of conflict. My favorite annual flower is still the zinnia, and they now have a prime location next to my back deck where I can enjoy them in the warm weather.
Growing zinnias is simple; they prefer full sunlight and well-drained soil. They may be planted directly in the garden or transferred. Plant them in a peat pot that can be placed directly into the garden or planting bed if you decide to have a head start and want to transplant so as to avoid disturbing the roots.
There are many different types of zinnias. They come in sizes ranging from 6 inches to nearly 4 feet, from dwarf to enormous. The flower heads are available in many different forms, including single and double flowers, spidery shapes, and domes.
The amazing variety of hues is the best feature. The palest pastel hues to the brightest hues are all available in zinnias. They come in solid, multicolored, striped, and specked patterns.
Dead heading zinnias is advised by Michigan State University Extension to ensure flowering from early summer through frost. Zinnias are encouraged to continue performing by dead heading throughout the season. But because zinnias fatigue, I advise putting them in succession every two weeks. I intend to plant in succession beginning in late May and continuing until the first week of July, roughly. This ensures spectacular blooms through the end of September. It’s not too late to plant some zinnia seeds for color that will persist through the first frost in the late summer.
In addition to their amazing garden display, zinnias make fantastic cut flowers and may be used anywhere you need a splash of color. Many zinnia cultivars can stay in a vase for seven to twelve days. The mainstay of the farmer’s market is zinnias as well. Flower farmers would tell that zinnias are one of the most profitable flowers to grow due to their vibrant colors, ease of maintenance, and extended vase life.
The zinnia variants “Benary’s Giant” and “Cut and Come Again” are two of my favorites. Their surnames are biographical. On tall stems that stand between 40 and 52 inches in height, “Benary’s Giant” has huge blooms and dazzling flowers. Cutting the stem just above a bud junction will encourage “Cut and Come Again” to produce continuously throughout the growing season, as will all zinnias.
Can zinnias be planted in the late summer?
One of my favorite garden tasks is caring for a cutting garden that produces fresh flowers all year long. Most people are unaware that zinnias may be planted into the late summer and enjoyed until the fall, despite the fact that they are a popular addition to spring cutting gardens. Zinnias grow well in hot climates and are simple to grow from seed. Because the temperature is typically a little dryer in the fall, zinnia growing conditions are ideal. I advise sowing zinnia seeds by August 15th to enjoy them all fall long. After the first frost, they will go extinct.
Full sun and well-drained soil are preferred by zinnias. Sow seeds 9–12 inches apart. Pinching zinnias when they are young is beneficial when they are grown for cut flowers. Longer flower stems and branching are encouraged by pinching. When the second or third true leaf set occurs, pinch off the new growth. Only one pinch is necessary. Additionally, zinnia cuttings encourage additional branching and flowering. I advise deadheading the spent flowers if you’d rather leave them on the plant. Deadheading is the process of removing wilted flowers to promote new growth and prevent disease.
Although zinnias can withstand short periods of drought, they occasionally need irrigation. Keep overhead irrigation to a minimum. Use a drip tape, a soaker hose, or just let your hose drip at the plants’ bases. The spread of illness can be stopped by watering the plants at their bases. Those who have ever raised zinnias are likely to have encountered zinnia leaf spots. Leaf spots on zinnias begin at the plant’s base and progress up the leaves, finally killing the plants. Different fungus diseases can cause zinnia leaf spots, which can be treated with fungicide sprays. Since you will have plenty of time to enjoy zinnias before the spots take over, I often advise against spraying them. However, if you must, consider rotating mancozeb with myclobutanil (Spectracide Immunox) every seven days to ward off the spots.
Although there are numerous zinnia seed variations available online, I find that whichever variety the neighborhood garden center provides works just as well. I suggest giving them all a try! Old favorites include The Benary Giant, State Fair, and Cactus Flowered Mix. Good fortune!
What month should zinnia seeds be sown?
Light: Full sun is ideal for zinnia growth and flowering. Even in warmer climates with afternoon shadow, they can flower there, but they may be more prone to disease and produce fewer flowers.
Soil: Organically rich, fertile soils with good drainage are ideal for growing zinnias. Because zinnia seedlings are susceptible to rotting in cool, damp soils, having well-drained soil is crucial.
Plant zinnia seeds in rows or clusters spaced a few inches apart. Once the plant has four leaves, thin to 8 to 18 inches apart, depending on the variety.
Planting: Plant zinnias in the spring, just about the time you plant tomatoes, when all threat of frost has passed. Growing zinnias from seeds straight in the garden is simple. Start seeds inside four to six weeks before to your last frost date for earlier flowering.
In June, can I still plant zinnias?
Even if your plants for the following crops—beans, squash, chard, carrots, and basil—are already established in the ground and flourishing, June is a great time to start a second crop so that it will be ready for a bountiful late summer harvest when the initial crops of these essentials have completed.
Every month I normally start some seeds, and by late June I’m done with the summer-harvesting crops. I sow seeds for fall crops in July and August, including several kinds of lettuce and mesclun blends, spinach, radishes, kale, peas, broccoli raab, braising mix, carrots, and Asian delicacies like mild mustards, stirfry mix, and pak choi.
Flowers can be planted in June along with later harvests! Increase the planting of annuals like marigolds, sunflowers, cosmos, zinnias, four o’clocks, nasturtiums, etc. that typically fade by late summer. You’ll have a wonderful second flush of bloom this way, and you may harvest armfuls for Labor Day!
Starting seeds for perennials and biennials that will bloom the following spring is also a good idea in June and July. I put seeds in a safe area and then transfer seedlings in the fall so they can overwinter and blossom the following spring, giving me a nice spring welcome in the garden.
What to sow:
While it is true that plants that bear fruit, such as tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, must be planted now, many, if not most, summer crops will develop even faster from seeds planted in the early summer, when the soil is thoroughly warmed up and teeming with life. You’ll be shocked by how quickly seeds sprout and expand rapidly.
Plant cucumber, bean, edamame, summer and winter squash, pumpkin, melons, beet, carrot, chard, and scallions seeds without hesitation. In a location with strong light but out of the direct, hot sun, plant a crop of “cut and come again” salad mix, braising mix, mild mustards, and any of our mesclun blends. Plant heat- and sun-loving herbs liberally, keeping the seed beds well-moisturized. Examples include basil, marjoram, chives, oregano, thyme, and sage. To enhance your enjoyment of summer afternoon gardening, don’t forget to put some fragrant scented basils in containers.
Can zinnia seeds be sown in the fall?
A: I have a lot of zinnias, and I always collect seed to plant the following year. Then I carefully pull out the zinnias from this year to avoid contaminating the ground with too many seeds. But truly, am I being overly cautious; would any of these dropped seeds germinate the next year? Isn’t one of the benefits of annuals that they do not self-seed in our climate zone?
A: Gathering the seed for later planting is a smart idea, but I wouldn’t be concerned about any that fall to the ground. Some flowers may regrow from seeds more easily than others. A flower that “self-seeds” is seen favorably by many gardeners. In my experience, marigolds self-seed fairly consistently while zinnias struggle to do so. It is advantageous if they are discernible in the spring, in April or May, for this feature to function well. Finding seedlings might be challenging as crabgrass begins to grow and the summer heat sets in.
Is this the right time of year to plant pansies? I heard that they can occasionally overwinter. If so, do some types fare better than others in this regard?
A: Pansies are a fantastic plant to grow right now because they can withstand the winter. They won’t produce as much fall color if they are planted too late. Therefore, the best time to travel is when the temperature has cooled off or when it is about to do so; this is normally from early September to mid-October. Establishing them might be challenging in late heat, like the one we recently experienced. If they are planted too late, they might not develop strong roots before winter, which makes them more vulnerable to frost heaving out of the ground. They are less likely to survive the winter and grow quickly the following spring as a result. Adding mulch around the plants before it becomes chilly can increase their chances of surviving the winter.
Any pansy may make it through the winter. Due in part to their widespread habitat, violas are thought to be more winter-resistant.
A: This summer, I planted a number of arborvitae, however the location is somewhat exposed. The first year, should I winter guard it? How, if so?
A: I would, as the location is open to the public. Otherwise, I wouldn’t if the plants were established after this summer’s growth. In November, thoroughly cover the plants with mulch. If the soil is dry as we enter the winter, water them. Burlap can be wrapped over the foliage to protect it, but the top should remain open. Another choice is to use a product like Wilt-Pruf to spray a protectant on the foliage. Use it early in December and once more in early February. Apply when the temperature is above freezing.
A: The ideal season is in the fall. A well-established bed has plenty of reserves in the roots, so even though you might feel horrible pulling off the green fronds once September rolls around. Since asparagus has deep roots, moving it across a complete bed may be difficult. The task would be simpler with a backhoe.
I’ve seen several trees and even a few plants that appear to be under stress. Is this a result of the dry September? Is it too late to irrigate woody plants if stress is apparent for them to recover?
A: The majority of well-established shrubs and trees ought to have survived the dry spell, but woodies that had just been planted (within the past two years) need to have been watered. Some mature woodies that favor cooler or moister environments may have become drought-stressed. Of course, watering them will be beneficial. This late in the season, a recovery might not be visible, but it might have an impact on winter survival. On Sept. 17–18, there was a wide range of rainfall. There may have been a 2 inch accumulation in certain areas, and that should be enough. However, where there was only one inch or less, the soil was quite dry, so irrigation would be beneficial given the unusually late temperatures.
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Can annuals still be planted in July?
I want to start a garden even though I will be away from home for many weeks in late May and early June. How late in the year can I start bedding plants or seeds for annuals?
A: It’s a good thing you aren’t planting before departing on your trip, to start with. It is not a good idea to leave a newly planted garden or landscape unattended for more than a day or two, even if a neighbor offers to keep an eye on it and provide water.
This is due to the fact that the world of new plants, shrubs, and trees is constrained by the soil and moisture resources present nearby. Count on yourself to complete these crucial activities; a friend is likely to neglect them.
All the moisture that roots have access to is quickly removed by a few hours of warm sun or even windy circumstances, at which point the wilting process starts. Once more, freshly planted plants at any time require close observation for a few weeks or months to ensure they never experience thirst. For this reason, it’s advantageous to be nearby while gardens are planted.
A last-plant date will vary depending on what will be planted. In Michigan, most trees and bushes can be planted almost all year long as long as the ground is not frozen.
In Michigan, the growing season is quite brief. Through mid-June, you can safely plant fast-growing annuals like marigolds, lettuce, zinnias, radish, and a few other well-liked veggies and flowering plants.
Planting lettuce and radishes, which have a very short growing season and can be harvested 35 to 40 days after sowing, is simple through the end of July. Most vegetable seed packets include information on days to maturity.
For annuals growing in larger containers, transplants are typically available through July 1 and beyond. These enormous sizes are very expensive; for example, $6 for a single marigold that was only available a few weeks previously in a cell-pack for $.25. Local garden centers that cultivate their own produce frequently sow multiple harvests of well-liked flowers and vegetables, scheduling these such that fresh plants are accessible from early May to late June.
By the third week of June, in my experience, bedding plant choices and quality start to decline. By July 1, options are quite limited, and the only real option is to purchase big annuals at gigantic costs.
Although it is simple to find inexpensive plant material, the likelihood is that it is past its prime. There is probably just enough soil in cell packets to keep the plant healthy for four weeks. After that, the plant’s general form and vigor deteriorate as the roots become too large for the limited space.
The first two weeks of June are, in my opinion, the best time to plant in the majority of Michigan’s regions. Given that stock is readily accessible in garden centers from early May onward, many gardeners undoubtedly start their seeds and transplants much earlier than that.
Tomato growers go to considerable efforts to establish their plants early and then protect them from frost. In the Lower Peninsula, frost-free periods last into early June; for a large portion of the peninsula south of Midland, May 30 marks the last day of predicted frost.
Planting annuals too close to Memorial Day doesn’t seem to be very beneficial. The soil is still cool even though there is a small but worthwhile probability of a late frost. For plants to thrive, the soil and air must be warm. A plant planted on May 20 and its twin planted on June 10 are likely to have the same size, number of blooms, and general vigor by July 1.
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