Planting is best done in the late spring or early fall. Planting shouldn’t be done on extremely hot or windy days. Water the plant in its container before you start digging the hole. After planting, give it a good soak.
In New England, when should I plant hydrangeas?
When the hydrangeas begin to bloom in New England, you can tell it’s summer, and boy, are they gorgeous this year. When I shared this photo of hydrangeas on Instagram the other day, I immediately received a deluge of comments and direct messages from people asking me about the dos and don’ts of hydrangeas. As a result, I decided to put together this post as a type of New Englander’s Guide to Hydrangeas for you all to refer to and keep for years to come rather than replying to each person’s queries individually.
Let’s start off by saying that I am not a flower expert and that the material in this post is a combination of what I’ve learned from family, friends, and, most importantly, trial and error. Let’s get started straight away, shall we?
Shrub over seed: I mean, shrub over shrub over shrub. I’ve never attempted to grow a hydrangea bush from seed since I lack the required patience. In fact, after doing some study, I learned that it can take three years for a shrub to reach garden centre size. Basically, choose a shrub if you want to soon see hydrangea flowers in your New England yard!
Deciding whether to plant your hydrangeas in pots or directly in the ground is crucial. Personally, I’ve preferred in-ground hydrangeas to potted hydrangeas, but a lot of that also has to do with where we live. I’m fortunate to have a backyard with parts that are slightly shaded, which hydrangeas are known to thrive in. In fact, the garden expert instructed my dad and I to plant the extra three bushes this past Mother’s Day, telling us to space them widely apart so they have opportunity to flourish and develop into a mature size. Now, if your front or backyard receives full sunlight nearly every day, you might think about potting your hydrangeas on your porch or doorway to shield them from the sun.
When Should You Plant Your Hydrangeas? You should try to plant your hydrangeas in late spring; you might plant them straight away or wait until early fall. Avoid planting your hydrangeas right before or right after a frost at all costs. Instead, aim for workable moist soil and comfortable temperatures.
The secret to keeping your hydrangeas healthy and blooming is to make sure they are well-hydrated and, as I mentioned earlier, in some shade. Pull out the watering hose once a day to give them a good soak if you want the soil to keep moist. To check if the leaves are drying out or burning from a lack of water, just look at them.
For a more aesthetic Instagram, make it blue: You know how much I adore having a consistent Instagram aesthetic, so when I planted hydrangeas, one of my main worries was how to ensure that they will be blue. I instantly conducted some study and discovered that by increasing the acidity of your soil, you can easily change pink hydrangeas into blue ones. If you want to be more precise, you can use a pH metre to measure the acidity of your soil prior to planting; ideally, you want to aim for an acidity level of 5.0. Before planting or, if already planted, close to the base of the plant, you can easily layer soil acidifier into the earth to impart acidity.
Cutting Your Blossoms: A fresh bouquet of hydrangea blossoms in your kitchen really does sum up summer in New England. I usually get delighted when it’s time to cut my hydrangea blossoms, but maintaining the freshness of your bouquets and the health of your shrubs depends on your cutting method. My neighbourhood garden centre advised me to use a knife and only cut hydrangea blossoms once they were fully opened and at a 45-degree angle. They insisted on using a knife even though I’ve previously cut with scissors without any problems in order to minimise harm to the bush. They also advised having a vase ready to go as hydrangeas should never spend much time out of water especially once having been cut.
Preparing Your Hydrangeas For Winter: I know it’s way too early to be thinking about winter, but I’m just going to mention it here so that we are ready when the time comes. The best time to get your shrubs ready for winter is in the late fall or right before the first frost. The hydrangea shrub should first have all of its flowers removed. After that, the stalks and stems should be cut back, leaving about six inches of stem remaining. Oh, and don’t forget to re-fertilize and water the plant before the first frost; this is an essential step in ensuring that your shrubs will survive the harsh winters New England has to offer.
Guys, this was a really lengthy post. Numerous facts and discussions on flowers, but hopefully this has inspired you to try out your own green thumb this summer. When in New England, hydrangea, that is!
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When is the best time to plant hydrangeas?
Learning the fundamentals of how to plant hydrangeas can help you save time and money, just like with most other items in your garden. You’ll improve your chances of enjoying big, vibrant hydrangea flowers for years to come by picking the appropriate site, getting the soil just right, and planting correctly.
When should I plant hydrangeas?
The best time to grow hydrangeas is in the fall, followed by early spring. The goal is to provide the shrub lots of time to develop a strong root system before it blooms. Early in the day or late in the day are the ideal times to plant. The day’s cooler hours provide relief from heat exhaustion. Water new plants frequently until they get established.
Locations to plant hydrangeas
The first step is knowing where to grow hydrangea plants. Hydrangeas are frequently grown in beds adjacent to houses or fences. This is so because hydrangeas prefer the mild early sun to the hot afternoon sun. A protected area with sunny mornings and shaded afternoons is the ideal spot to plant hydrangeas. This is frequently found on the north or south side of a house. Avoid planting underneath trees since it could cause competition for nutrients and water. Flowers and leaves can both be destroyed by strong winds.
hydrangea-friendly soil
The soil needs to be rich in organic matter for hydrangeas to thrive. Drainage is important. Although hydrangeas prefer damp soil, they cannot stand standing water. Root rot can be brought on by wet, poorly draining soils. Your hydrangeas could pass away in a matter of weeks. Consider adding a lot of compost to your heavy soil before planting to increase the soil’s quality.
Methods for planting hydrangeas
Simply dig planting holes that are 2 feet wider than the root ball for planting hydrangeas. So that your plant lies level with or just higher than the surrounding soil, match the depth of the hole to the size of the root ball. You can improve water drainage away from the plant’s base by making a small mound.
The best way to grow hydrangeas
Simple propagation methods can multiply a single hydrangea into several more. The optimal time to layer bigleaf and panicle hydrangeas is in the early to mid-summer. You only need to:
- Close to your hydrangea plant, make a tiny trench.
- Bend a branch such that the middle of the branch meets the earth in the trench (six to 12 inches of branch should extend past the trench).
- Where the branch meets the trench soil, make scuff marks on the bark.
- After the trench is filled, cover it with a paver, brick, or stone.
- The branch can be transplanted to a different area once it has established its own root system over time.
Hydrangeas with smooth or oakleaf leaves produce new growth from underground stems. Simply separate the baby plant from the main plant by digging it up. After then, it can be moved to a new spot.
How are hydrangeas grown in Massachusetts?
One of the most well-liked flowering shrubs for Massachusetts settings is the hydrangea. Indeed, one of the distinguishing features of the Cape Cod garden is the “blue” hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla or bigleaf hydrangea). Hydrangeas offer colour and beauty throughout the summer and into the fall, whether they are used as a specimen flowering shrub, in a mixed planting with perennials, or in the shrub border.
In our landscapes, hydrangeas of various species are grown. They all generally have comparable cultural expectations. The ideal soil for hydrangeas is one that is continuously moist, well-drained, and rich in organic matter like compost or well-aged manure. They are not particularly resistant of dryness and do not do well in extremely dry, sandy soils. Hydrangeas typically require one inch of water per week, applied in a deep soak. They may need up to 2″ of water every week to avoid wilting in extremely hot and dry weather. In a shrub border of hydrangeas, drip watering or soaker hoses work well since they maintain the soil’s moisture while also keeping the leaves dry, lowering the risk of leaf spots. You may grow hydrangeas in either full sun or dim shade. Particularly the bigleaf hydrangea, which may wilt in full sun even with moist soil, does well if shielded from the intense afternoon heat.
When fertilising hydrangeas in the early spring and again after blossoming, use a balanced fertiliser weighing about 4 ounces. Hydrangeas prefer a moderate amount of nutrients in the soil. Check the quality of the roots of container-grown plants before planting, and if the roots appear to be circled around the pot or pot bound, loosen them. Add organic material to the planting area and position the plant at the same depth as in the container. The surrounding soil should be level with the top of the root ball. Apply 2 to 3 inches of high-quality mulch over the new plant’s roots, keeping the mulch away from the plant’s crown. Water the new plant thoroughly.
The smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens), which grows as an understory shrub in forests, is a native of the Eastern United States. This species prefers plenty of moisture and partial shade. It develops into a spherical shrub that is 3 to 5 feet high and 3 to 5 feet broad. It blooms in late June or early July, with clusters of 4″ to 6″ wide white flowers. Popular cultivar “Annabelle” produces enormous flower heads that can measure up to 12″ in diameter. The open, lace-cap flower head of the “White Dome” survives well in heavy rain. Pruning should be done in late winter or early spring before new growth starts since smooth hydrangeas bloom on new wood. Zone 4 is the hardiest, however smooth hydrangea may die back to the ground in a very cold winter. As long as it develops flower buds on new wood, it will continue to bloom the next year.
During the month of July, the bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) is one of the prominent plants in the landscape. It has an even spread and a height range between 3 and 6 feet, with a rounded habit made up of numerous stiff, unbranched erect stems. Springtime leafing is delayed, and during particularly chilly winters, it can die back to the ground. The Hortensia group of bigleaf hydrangeas features flower clusters made up of several sterile blooms arranged in enormous globes. The Lacecap group is composed of a flat-topped cluster of gorgeous sterile flowers surrounding a centre of tiny, fertile flowers.
Bigleaf hydrangea flowers frequently vary in colour, with hues ranging from deep pink to red and deep pink to white. Bigleaf hydrangeas need specific pigments in order to turn pink or blue. The blossom will be a shade of blue if there is aluminium in the soil. If there is no aluminium present, the blossom will be pink. Aluminum availability is influenced by soil pH: it is more readily available in low pH soils and less readily available in high pH soils. Flowers will be blue if the soil pH is 5.5 or lower and pink, rose, or red, depending on the cultivar, if the soil pH is 6.5 or higher. The amount of pigment present in a particular cultivar determines the color’s intensity. While “Dooley” will always be either rich blue or rich pink, “Nikko Blue” will always be one of those colours.
Regarding Bigleaf hydrangea pruning, there is a lot of misunderstanding. On mature wood, flower buds often form in the summer and blossom in late June or early July the following year. On the stem’s tip, there is the main flower bud, and there are more buds forming lower down in the leaf axils. These secondary buds do not blossom if the main bud does. Some of these buds might bloom if the main bud is winter-killed. However, freezing weather in the early fall and late spring, as well as winter temperatures below 10 oF, may completely destroy all flower buds, resulting in little to no bloom the next year.
Simply pull out wilted flowers the first several years after planting when they turn brown. Just above the following row of leaves, trim them off. Maintain a healthy structure as the plant ages by cutting the oldest stems (3 years+) all the way to the ground in late winter. At that time, you should also remove any dead stems and tips. If a Bigleaf hydrangea needs to be pruned to control height, do it as soon as the flowers start to fade, right above a set of leaves. Even better, plant it where it will be able to reach its full height and width.
Bigleaf hydrangea breeding advances have led to the creation of cultivars that can bloom on both young and aged wood. This “remontant” quality enables blossoming even when the flower buds are killed by the cold. Among the cultivars with this reblooming ability are “Endless Summer,” “Penny Mac,” and “Dooley.” Up to zone 6, bigleaf hydrangeas are hardy.
The Panicle hydrangea (H. paniculata), sometimes known as the Pee Gee hydrangea, has been utilised in the landscape for many years. With an equivalent spread, this substantial shrub or small tree can grow to a height of between 10 and 20 feet. It blooms from July to September, when huge, 6- to 8-inch-long pyramidal panicles are produced. Fluffy fertile blossoms are dotted throughout the showy, sterile flowers that make up the panicles. The blossoms begin as white but gradually turn a mauve-pink colour that lasts throughout the fall. Panicle hydrangeas are the most versatile type of hydrangea. It is the most resilient of the species and is more tolerant of dry spells and direct sunlight. It blooms on fresh wood; if necessary, trim in late winter or early spring to control height. Zone 3 is the hardiest for panicle hydrangeas.
The traditional Pee Gee hydrangea has the cultivar name “Grandiflora,” and it frequently takes on the form of a tree with just one main trunk. Heavy flower clusters, 12 to 18 inches long, allow the branches to arch over, giving the arrangement the appearance of a fountain. Better plants for the garden can be found in more recent varieties that have entered the market. With more fertile than sterile flowers, “Kyushu” is a robust, erect variety that has an open, airy appearance. Lime green flower buds on the 6 to 8-foot-tall and wide ‘Limelight’ plant open to a delicate greenish-white tint. The late flowering cultivar “Tardiva” blooms from late August to October and reaches heights of 8 to 12 feet. A short cultivar, “Little Lamb” only grows to a height of 4 to 6 feet. It also has tiny, delicate flowers, with flower heads that are described to resemble “little lambs dancing around the stem.”
The southeastern region of the United States is home to the native oakleaf hydrangea (H. quercifolia). Its enormous, lobed leaves can grow up to 8″ long and 5′ broad, resembling oak leaves. The 8′-tall oakleaf hydrangea has upright stems that develop in height. By growing stems from the roots, it gradually clumps together, and as it ages, the bark turns shaggy and reddish. Large, white, conical flower heads with both fertile and sterile blooms start to bloom in July. The base of the flower heads can be up to 4″ wide and 12″ long. The blossoms stay beautiful throughout the fall as they mature and dry to a lovely pink-mauve colour. The scarlet and burgundy hues of the autumn foliage can be stunning. The flower buds grow on aged wood; if necessary, prune right away after bloom.
The cultivar known as “Snow Queen” has been available for some time and is excellent. It has a more compact growth habit and can withstand the sun well, maturing to a height of 6′. It has creamy white flower heads that are 6 to 8 inches long. One of the more recent varieties, “Alice,” grows to a height of 10 to 12 feet and is particularly strong. Large flower heads up to 12 to 14 inches long with florets the size of a fifty-cent piece are produced by this plant. Multiple bracts on the flowers of “Snowflake” give the impression that they are doubled. The 12 to 15-inch flower heads are so massive that they arch over, giving the impression of weeping. This variety favours moist soil and some shade. With a petite design that only grows to be 3′ tall by 3′ broad, “Pee Wee” is a wonderful choice for smaller gardens. The flower heads are also small, measuring only 5″ in length. Fall colours is good in “Pee Wee.” Zone 5 is the hardiest for oakleaf hydrangeas.
Despite not being a shrub, climbing hydrangea (H. anomela petiolaris) is one of the most magnificent climbing vines that is now accessible. Although it has the same growing conditions as other hydrangeas, it takes longer to mature after planting. Once established, it might climb as high as 60′. The climbing hydrangea ascends by using holdfasts that resemble roots to cling to surfaces. It is frequently positioned next to walls or other structures, especially at the base of large trees. It blooms in June, giving out huge, flat lace-cap-like flowers that can be up to 10″ wide and last for up to two weeks. The horizontal extension of the flowering stems from the surface they are growing on frequently gives the plant a three-dimensional appearance. Golden yellow is a fall hue. This vine is very lovely. Up to zone 4, climbing hydrangea is hardy.