Lilacs are a nostalgic flower for many individuals. On our property in Kansas, my mother planted a lot of lilac bushes. As I played, the aroma spread across the yard. In order for our children to share the same exquisite recollection of the aroma and flower, my husband and I made it a priority to plant a lilac in our garden when we first started our family.
I’ve tried, and have failed, through the years to bring this flower’s bounty into my house. Even though I had the flowers in a spotless vase filled with new water, they would begin to wilt an hour after I brought them inside. I have figured out how to make the blooms last as long as possible by trial and error:
As you trim blooms, have a pail half-full of fresh, chilled water nearby. Choose a chilly morning or evening to pick flowers. Lilacs bloom very sporadically after being harvested, so look for stems with at least 75 percent of their flowers open. Next, remove all of the leaves to prevent the plant from exerting extra energy to keep them moist. Put stems in the liquid. Allow the flowers to absorb water in the bucket for at least an hour by placing it in a cool, dark location.
Recut the stem ends next with powerful clippers, then make 1-2 inch vertical slices up the stem. Take hold of the sliced stem’s one side and twist it backward. Reintroduce the chopped stems to the water in the bucket right away. For an additional hour or two, let the stems soak up extra water in a cool, dark location. After that, the lilacs will survive three to four days and be ready for arranging.
Why are my lilacs in the vase wilting?
I make money from eligible purchases as an Amazon Associate and member of other affiliate programs.
Here on the east coast, lilacs are all around us. The lilacs blossom profusely in the spring for around two weeks. I am drawn to them every year and want to bring them inside.
I’ve tried to cut lilacs for many years, but they always wilt the next day. Without really realizing there was a better way, it was just one of those things I came to accept about lilacs.
It is true that after being cut, lilacs tend to wilt in the vase. Lack of hydration of the blooms and leaves as a result of poor absorption of water and nutrients inside the stem is the primary cause of wilting.
Large lilac flowers require a lot of care to maintain them full and healthy, even for a short period of time in a vase.
However, I’ve since learned that there are a few methods you can employ to assist keep the flowers looking fresh for a lot longer. It changed everything when I figured out how to keep lilacs from wilting.
You Can Prevent Lilac Blooms From Wilting
Looking back, I can see that many of the things I did, starting with the first stage of harvest, led to this.
I occasionally cut the blossoms without thoroughly cleaning the buckets or containers I had on hand.
I used these methods to preserve my lilacs fresh this year, and I have to admit that I even shocked myself. They stayed fresh in the vase for approximately 5 days, and I was able to utilize them in a number of recipes and dry some of them for sachets.
How can lilac be revitalized?
The common purple lilac is a hardy, dependable shrub that can grow up to 20 feet tall. Unfortunately, the lower, shady sections of lilac shrubs typically lose their leaves as they get older. Large, overgrown specimens as a result are frequently leggy and ugly. Pruning can restore or rejuvenate old, neglected lilacs. Home gardeners have two alternative pruning techniques to pick from.
Cutting the entire plant back to within 6 to 8 inches of the ground in late winter is one method of renewing a huge, overgrown lilac (March or early April). A significant number of shoots will sprout during the growth season as a result of this aggressive pruning. Select a few sturdy, robust shoots to construct the shrub’s framework, keeping a few of them, and cut off all the others at ground level in the late winter of the next year. To promote branching, head (clip) back the retained shoots to just above a bud.
Cutting back the overgrown shrubs over a three-year period is a second method for pruning mature lilacs. In late January, start the process by digging up and removing one-third of the big, old stems. The following year, trim out half of the remaining old stems (again in late winter). Additionally, trim out some of the recent growth. Keep a few healthy stems that are evenly spaced apart and cut off the rest. In the third year’s late winter, completely remove all of the old wood. It is also necessary to thin the fresh shoots more. This pruning technique should enable you to take pleasure in blossoms every spring because lilac wood must be three years or older before it blooms.
Within a few years, with the right pruning, an old, overgrown lilac can be converted into a robust, appealing shrub. Pruning should be a frequent component of the lilacs’ management regimen after they have been revived. By cutting a few of the oldest branches every three to five years, the shrub can be kept strong and healthy.
(This article, which first published in the Sunday edition of the Lincoln Journal Star Newspaper in February 2005, has since been amended. Consult the Terms of Use for details on how to copy this content and use any images or visuals.)
How can lilacs be prevented from wilting after being cut?
Participating in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program is Paisley + Sparrow. If you use the links below to shop, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you because this post may include affiliate links.
Cut them in the morning or evening.
This enables them to contain the most water possible. They are far more likely to become dehydrated from the warm sun if you cut them at noon.
Cut them with sharp pruning shears.
Never try to cut them with a standard pair of scissors! To ensure a clean cut, use (or pick up) a pair of pruning shears.
To give the lilacs greater surface area to absorb water, cut them at a 45-degree angle.
When you go to cut the lilacs, bring a pail of chilly water with you into the garden. Put the stem in the water as soon as you cut it to prevent it from becoming dehydrated.
Remove excess leaves.
Removing excess leaves is beneficial for two reasons. Make sure to first remove any leaves from the vase you intend to use that would otherwise be submerged in the water. That will prevent your water from turning bad.
Second, some branches have a lot of extra leaves on them depending on the branch you cut. Just bear in mind that any leaves you keep will reduce the amount of water needed to keep your cut lilacs alive. I like to leave some leaves on for some extra green.
Get your vase ready!
Make sure your vase is tidy and big enough to hold your cut lilac flowers. Be careful since bases that are thin run the risk of falling over.
Fill it with flower food and warm water. Personally, I think it’s a great idea to get some flower food to keep on hand if you enjoy having fresh flowers in your home!
If you don’t have flower food, you can add a teaspoon of sugar, a teaspoon of white vinegar, or a teaspoon of bleach to the water along with a sugary citrus soft drink to help manage bacteria. Other professionals advise using crushed aspirin instead of flower food to keep the water clean.
To prevent them from drying out and wilting too rapidly, keep your lilacs away of direct sunshine.
Split the bottom of the stems.
Split the bottom of the stems of your lilacs before placing them in the vase that you’re using. To do this, you can either use a hammer on the bottom (I suggest doing this outside to avoid damaging your table!). or use your shears to cut an x at the bottom.
This will make it possible for the stems to absorb more water, preventing your lilacs from wilting too soon.
Is keeping lilacs in the house unlucky?
Old-fashioned country customs are still alive and well, such hanging horseshoes and applauding magpies.
Two thirds of us can’t get through the day without making some kind of superstitious gesture, according to recent research. Why do we do it, though? Rural residences
Greeting a magpie recognizing and honoring the long-standing country superstition of magpies. One for sadness, two for pleasure is a saying that refers to the fact that they often pair for life. Because of this, seeing a single one is seen to be unlucky. People would give a respectful salute or remark aloud, “Good morning Mr. Magpie, I hope your family are well,” to fend off bad luck.
Never take lilac inside According to an ancient English legend, faeries favored lilac trees. Faeries were once greatly feared; wild and capricious, they were believed to kidnap individuals. You were taking a chance by putting lavender on show by inviting them inside. The Victorian era, when fragrant lilac flower was frequently utilized to mask the stench of disease and death, is another source of negative connotations. But it’s not all bad news; according to a different belief, gardeners invented the bad connections to deter people from stealing the lovely flowers!
According to Richard Webster in The Encyclopedia of Superstitions, because of their lengthy lifespan, oak trees were thought to bring longevity and protect against disease.
affix a horseshoe to the door. Since ancient times, horseshoes have been used as traditional home decor to presumably protect and provide good fortune to the family living there. The idea comes from a fable about a blacksmith by the name of Dunstan. He was approached by the Devil, who asked that he be fitted with fresh horseshoes. Dunstan, who was aware of his identity, painfully attached a horseshoe to his foot and only let him go when he vowed never to enter a house with a horseshoe placed over the entrance.
as in this? Visit the Country Homes & Interiors site for more rural design ideas.
To cut lilacs, what do you put to the water?
- Pick lilac stems early in the day when they are damp from the morning dew. Flowers lose moisture on hot days. The day’s cut flowers will deteriorate soon.
- Try to get stems with vivid colors and solid foliage. Choose stems with at least one-third of the flowers remaining in buds in order to extend the vase life.
- Each lilac stem should be cut at a 45-degree angle, about 1 inch from the base of the main stem, using a sharp knife or pruning shears. For maximum water absorption, cutting at an angle will help guarantee a bigger area is exposed to water.
- Lilac stems should have the bases broken off so that water can be drawn up through the woody stem to the blossoms. Use the back of your garden clippers, as I did in the video, or beat the stem with a tiny hammer to cause it to break.
- Eliminating any leaves will help to reduce water loss through transpiration.
- The lilac stems should be placed right away in a bowl of warm water containing crushed aspirin or Floral Preservative. The aspirin’s salicylic acid will help keep the water clean and clear of microorganisms that can harm flowers.
Does the lilac bush suffer when it is cut?
An old, overgrown lilac was one of the few plants that endured my garden restoration. The fact that it obscured my neighbor’s garage and, more importantly, sported steel-blue double flowers, led me to rescue it. Although the blossoms on this shrub were both lovely and fragrant, it was difficult to appreciate them because there were so few of them. I decided to go with a rejuvenation pruning because I knew there was no reason to give up on this long-neglected plant because lilacs can handle severe pruning.
On stems that are no older than five or six years, the common French lilacs (Syringa vulgaris cvs.) yield the most and the largest flowers. The flowers get fewer, smaller, and farther away as the stems get older. A lilac, however, may reliably produce blossoms for decades with the right trimming. The method you choose will depend on how old your shrub is. Plants are maintained annually to keep them healthy. A more drastic trimming may be necessary for lilacs like mine that have seen better days.
Lilacs should be clipped annually to encourage healthy stem development and strong growth that improves flowering. Cutting sick, deformed, and unproductive stems to the ground constitutes annual pruning. I thin and cut back some stems as well to promote healthy, evenly spaced growth. To prevent them from growing too far away from the center of the plant, I also pruned a few of the new shoots that emerged from the roots. I left a few inches between each stem to prevent crowding. Since they produce the most, I maintain the pencil-thick shoots that extend all the way to the ends of the branches. Small, twitchy growth is unproductive and won’t blossom. This growth can indicate an excess of aged, unproductive stems or too much shadow. Remove stems as soon as possible after blossoming, or in late winter if you don’t mind losing a few blooms. Cut off stems and shoots at or just below the soil line.
Dwarf lilacs rarely need pruning
Both the “Palibin” Meyer lilac (Syringa meyeri “Palibin”) and the “Miss Kim” Manchurian lilac (Syringa pubescens ssp. patula “Miss Kim”) are twiggy-habiting, somewhat small lilacs. On these types, just deadheading is needed in terms of pruning. You can prune some of the older stems as the plants get older to make place for younger, more robust stems. In contrast to regular lilacs, these plants hardly ever spread out of control. They might never need to be entirely regenerated if you only undertake a tiny amount of trimming every few years.
After the blooms have faded, deadheading, another aspect of annual maintenance, should be carried out as soon as feasible. Just above the two new shoots that slant out from the stem that stopped with the old bloom, the base of the old flower cluster should be cut off. The new shoots will develop throughout the course of the summer, produce flower buds, and culminate in a cluster of flowers the following spring. While not as crucial as the annual thinning, eliminating the old blossoms enables the plant to focus more of its energy on developing robust branches and flower buds. In June, I deadhead and thin my plants as needed.
While performing this yearly maintenance, I occasionally come upon a young, robust shoot that may be getting too tall but is still a good, productive stem and is a candidate for tipping off. I cut the wasted flower’s entire top stem back to one or two side shoots at the desired height rather of just cutting it off at the base. The side shoots that are now near the top of the bush are encouraged to grow vigorously and develop flower buds for the following year by this cut, which also aids in shrinking the shrub.
My own old, overgrown lilacs need more severe pruning. I went outside in the early spring before growth got going to get a good look at the bush. I looked to see if the plant had been grafted before I began chopping. I immediately cut it down to the ground as it hadn’t (for a grafted plant, see the panel below). I recognized that this drastic trimming would result in the plant losing part of its aesthetic appeal for a few years because lilacs bloom on the growth from the previous season. However, I was also aware that the reward—more blossoms and a stronger plant—would be worthwhile.
It’s crucial to nourish the plant after rejuvenation pruning with compost, composted manure, or a balanced chemical fertilizer and to make sure the soil pH is close to neutral, which lilacs appreciate. In the upcoming years, these supplements and some high-quality mulch will help to encourage vigorous new growth and enhanced flowering.
Has your lilac been grafted?
If your lilac has been grafted, check it out before you start making cuts to the stems. Grafting is a method of plant multiplication in which the scion, or branch, of one species is joined to the rootstock, or stem, of another species. This is typically done to enhance a plant’s look or traits. A graft union, where the cultivar’s scion wood joins the rootstock several inches above ground level, should be obvious. An apparent change in the bark from the rootstock to the scion’s bark, as well as a little swelling at the graft union, are things to watch for. If your plant has been grafted, all of your cuttings must be made above the graft union, and you must prevent shoots from the rootstock from developing into new flowering stems. Flowers of the desired shape or color will not be produced by shoots that emerge from the rootstock.