It’s challenging to grow the colored hydrangea varieties, including the hydrangea macrophylla. Pick plants that can survive in cold and alkaline soil.
One of the simplest kinds to grow in this area is the Oak Leaf hydrangea, which may be seen above in Temple Square. An added bonus: The autumn leaves become red.
Depending on the soil, the Hydrangea macrophylla has huge clusters of pink or blue flowers. Alkaline soil grows pink; acidic soil turns blue.
I recently traveled to the Pacific Northwest with a group of gardeners. One flowering plant, the hydrangea, stood out among the others in the gardens we visited. Beautiful white, pink, blue, and purple flowers decorated the countryside everywhere you turned.
Now is a wonderful time to familiarize yourself with these plants if you are not already. Although they all demand well-drained soil with a pH close to neutral, not all hydrangea cultivars are hardy in our region, I must add a caveat. These plants are not appropriate for your landscaping if your soil is consistently very windy, very alkaline, or salty.
Let’s start with the hydrangea kinds that are white or cream in hue. The name PeeGeeor Hydrangea paniculata “Grandiflora” is an acronym for the species and variety names. The hardiest of the plants is this robust type, commonly known as panicle hydrangea.
The enormous, opulent clusters of creamy white blossoms with conical shapes start to bloom in August and September. They gradually turn a lovely bronze-pink that lasts long into the fall after a few weeks. The shrub has a comparable spread and grows 8 to 10 feet tall. They should be planted in wet, well-drained soil in full sun or light shade. Because PeeGee hydrangeas are so resilient, dieback is rarely an issue.
“Tardiva” is similar to “PeeGee,” but only thrives in Zone 4. It has smaller flowers and blooms a little later. Allow lots of space because the rounded shrub grows 6–8 feet tall and 8–10 feet broad. Plant in loamy, well-drained soil with some shade or full sun. It can stand a wide pH range in the soil.
Another near relative of the PeeGee and “Tardiva” is “Unique.” It develops an upright, mounded shrub that can reach heights of 8 feet and a width of 10 feet, with huge white blooms. Plant it either in partial shade or direct sunlight. PeeGee, “Tardiva,” and “Unique” should be pruned in the early spring since their flowers bloom on fresh wood.
“Pink Diamond” has a tidy mounding habit and grows 3–4 feet wide and tall. Large pink flowers appear on the new growth in July and August. Plant in broad sun to slight shade and moist, well-drained soil. Up to Zone 4, the plant is hardy.
The Snowball hydrangea, Hydrangea arborescens “Annabelle,” is another name for it (or smooth hydrangea). In June and July, it puts forth enormous, symmetrical flowers that can reach 8 inches in diameter. The plants can reach heights of 4-5 feet and a width of 3-5 feet, and they are hardy to Zone 3.
Choose a soil that is rich, well-drained, and regularly moist. It prefers a slightly shady environment and can withstand slightly alkaline soil pH. When the new buds appear on the lower stems in the spring, Annabelle should be cut back to a foot or two above ground because it blooms on fresh wood.
Ivy Leaf
A cool, damp habitat is preferred by Hydrangea quercifolia. Although it is hardy to Zone 5, the plant seems to do better in a protected area with adequate winter protection. It spreads to a comparable breadth and grows 3–4 feet tall in our environment.
One of the simplest types to grow in our area seems to be Oak Leaf. Plant in suitable soil from full sun to partial shade. The plants feature panicles that are cream in color and huge, attractive oak-shaped leaves. The autumnal reddening of the leaves is an extra benefit.
hydrangea that climbs
A plant for patient, upbeat gardeners is the hydrangea anomala petiolaris. They take a while to get rolling and sometimes even take years. Once the roots have become well-established, they become active and will climb trees, masonry, stucco, or fences. In June and July, they produce creamy white blooms with glossy, bright green leaves.
They should be planted in good, well-drained soil in some shade. They will eventually reach a length of 20 to 30 feet, and they thrive when their root systems receive adequate winter mulch. They are a plant from Zone 5. They require little to no pruning, but you should prune back any shoots that stray over the summer if they do.
Although more difficult to grow, colored hydrangea types are quite stunning. Plant lovers might have a look at some of these. Large pink or blue flower clusters can be found on the hydrangea macrophylla, sometimes known as the house or florist hydrangea. Pick types that can survive in cold and alkaline soils.
Since it was found in Minnesota, “Endless Summer” is resistant to the cold. The flowers are pink in alkaline soils and blue in acidic soils, and they bloom on both old and fresh wood. The plant blooms in late July and reaches a height and width of 3 to 5 feet. A little winter protection is a smart move. Although little shaping in the early spring may remove some buds, the plant will blossom on fresh wood.
One of the showiest hydrangeas is “Nikko Blue.” Although it has a Zone 5 rating, it performs best with appropriate winter protection. You’ll have to settle for the pink blossoms produced by plants grown in neutral or alkaline soil because the plant requires acidic soil with a pH below 6.0 in order to produce the stunning blue flowers. It increases to be 4-5 feet tall and wide. The flowers, which typically measure more than 6 inches wide, arrive in July and August.
A near relative of “Nikko Blue,” “All Summer Beauty” blooms throughout July and August. It expands to a height and width of 3 to 4 feet. Like “Nikko Blue,” it is a Zone 5 plant, but because it blooms on young wood and is simpler to overwinter, it is more hardy. It should be planted in a protected area with well-drained soil, full sun, or mild shade.
Although not suitable for every Utah landscape, several of these species thrive here. Choose the variety wisely and in accordance with your growth environment, then be patient. Some of the best summer-flowering shrubs you have ever cultivated could be your reward.
Thanksgiving Point’s horticultural expert is Larry Sagers from Utah State University Extension.
Many customers ask why their hydrangeas aren’t blooming. The primary reasons hydrangeas don’t bloom are incorrect pruning, bud damage due to winter and/or early spring weather, location and too much fertilizer.
There are hydrangea kinds that bloom on either fresh or old wood, or even both. Both new and old wood are the growth of the following year (spring), respectively.
- Consider that this year, you bought a Nikko Blue Hydrangea. For the next year, Nikko’s produce blooms in the fall. Your Nikko is therefore creating blooms this fall that will blossom in the spring.
- Therefore, you wouldn’t want to completely prune your Nikko Blue Hydrangea this fall while you are pruning your perennials. Pruning the Nikko Blue Hydrangea this fall would effectively mean cutting off your hydrangea flowers for the upcoming spring.
- The idea behind Endless Summer, a hydrangea variety that blooms on both old and new wood, is that the plant will set blooms this fall to blossom not only in the spring of the following year, but will also keep producing blooms in the spring of the following year to extend the blossoms into the summer.
- Once more, pruning your Endless Summer hydrangea in the fall would mean removing some of the flowers that would blossom in the spring.
The hydrangea’s plant tag will indicate whether it blooms on fresh wood, old wood, or both. It is typically preferable to wait until spring to prune your hydrangeas. As the plant grows, you’ll see stems that are fragile when bent and lack any leaves. Since these stems are dead and won’t produce any flowers, they should be clipped close to the plant’s base.
The second reason why your hydrangeas aren’t blooming is probably the weather. Buds of hydrangeas are extremely susceptible to cold. Therefore, it is a good idea to wrap your hydrangea for the winter if it is an old wood hydrangea. Keep in mind that old wood hydrangeas establish their blooms for the following spring in the fall. Therefore, you won’t have blossoms in the spring if the fall-produced buds are frozen in the winter.
You can wrap anything with regular burlap. Burlap should be wrapped around the plant and filled with mulch or leaves after the first hard frost and after the hydrangea’s leaves have dropped. In order for the buds to survive the winter and sprout the following spring, the plant receives insulation from this. Never wrap your hydrangeas in plastic. When warmer winter days arrive, the plant cannot breathe since plastic, unlike burlap, doesn’t breathe. As a result, the plant can heated to such high temperatures that it cooks within the plastic and perishes.
The second most frequent weather-related cause hydrangeas do not blossom is late spring killing frosts. We saw really chilly temperatures in April both this year and last year after beautiful spring days. When springtime temperatures drop below freezing, hydrangeas need to be covered with an old beach towel or sheet. Because of the temperature dip, there won’t be any blossoms.
The majority of hydrangeas require at least 3 to 4 hours of light per day to bloom. The best light is in the early morning, midday light is acceptable if it is dabbled light rather than beating sun, and afternoon sun is typically too hot. Check the plant label, though. Newer hydrangea cultivars are being created that can withstand more sun exposure time and sun intensity. A hydrangea in full sun will require much more watering than one in diffused light, so keep that in mind.
High nitrogen fertilizer should not be used to feed hydrangeas. Nitrogen is indicated by the first number on the fertilizer ratio. (The ratio stands for N, P, and K) For healthy leaves and general good growth, some nitrogen (N) is required; however, a ratio of 8-16-6 or any similar combination with a higher middle or phosphorus (P) value is preferred. The growth of roots and shoots is encouraged by phosphorus, which improves the blooming process.
Potash (K), the third element’s last quantity and the lowest ratio, is for plant hardiness. Because hydrangeas prefer acidic soil, they can be fertilized with fertilizers designed for such plants. Hydrangeas only require fertilizing twice a year, once in early spring and once in mid-summer. To avoid root burn, make sure the soil is always moist before applying a fertilizer.
When pruning hydrangeas for the winter?
If and when you prune is the key to happy, healthy hydrangea flowers. Of course, fertilizing and offering the ideal environment have a lot to recommend them. However, if you don’t prune properly, your efforts will be in vain. Deadheading is not the same as trimming. Pruning refers to more drastic cutting to preserve shape or remove dead growth. However, feel free to discard spent blossoms or cut fresh ones to use in arrangements.
Hydrangeas can bloom on either fresh wood or old wood, depending on the species. The wood from which they blossom determines whether and when to prune.
Old wood-blooming hydrangeas do not require pruning and benefit from it. They’ll blossom more abundantly the next season if you leave them alone. But feel free to deadhead or gently thin. Just keep in mind that while new growth may appear, it won’t bloom until the following season. In our region, four different species blossom on aged wood. Additionally, they are not limited to the hues displayed here.
Climb using suckers. On your wall or trellis, resist the desire to remove the dormant growth.
The flower heads are more conical in appearance, and the leaves are large and resemble oak leaves. It’s a pleasant surprise for a hydrangea when its leaves turn reddish-orange in the fall.
They are very comparable to lacecap types, but smaller and with more compact leaves.
Pruning should be done in late winter or early spring on hydrangeas that bloom on new wood. Trim back to two feet to prune to shape. The next season’s blossoms are produced by strong, fresh growth that is encouraged by trimming. In our region, there are two types that bloom on fresh wood. They are also not restricted to the colors displayed.
Oakleaf variants are not included in cone-shaped blooms. Keep the blooms on throughout the winter to provide interest; even dried out, they are quite lovely.
regarded as a wild kind. They often have smaller blooms and leaves than Bigleaf variants and are completely white. They enjoy full sun and can grow very tall.
Knowing whether or when to prune now will help you avoid the disappointment of a hydrangea that doesn’t blossom. Don’t forget that a robust shrub will produce more gorgeous blossoms if it has well-draining soil and good organic fertilizer. Come on in, and we’ll show you where to go to develop your green thumb.
Does hydrangea like shade or the sun?
With the ideal balance of morning sun and afternoon shade, hydrangeas flourish. Even the sun-loving Hydrangea paniculata will thrive in some shade. Some hydrangea cultivars may survive complete shadow, though.
The oakleaf hydrangea, also known as hydrangea quercifolia, is a substantial species of hydrangea that may reach heights of up to eight feet. In a shade garden, this big bush makes a beautiful backdrop. The height will provide excellent midsummer seclusion. Oakleaf hydrangeas are summer bloomers with mostly white blooms, elegant oakleaf-shaped leaves, and lovely peeling bark.
Hydrangea anomala ssp. petiolaris is another choice for full shade. This climbing species, which has lacy, white blossoms in the summer, can reach a height of 50 feet if it is given adequate support. The foliage is a rich shade of green and would look wonderful growing up a tree trunk or covering the face of a building. It would also look lovely covering the roof of a garden shed.
Full shade cultivars require the same upkeep as partial shade. In the deeper shade, it will be especially crucial to keep the plants free of leaf litter and with excellent airflow. Water your plant once a week after it has become established. Keep a watch on the leaves, and if you notice any drooping, especially during the hot summer months, water them right away. The importance of this increases in hotter regions.
These leaves’ unique shape would be a lovely complement to Hosta leaves. The white blossoms would contrast nicely with the lighter hues of your shady blooms and provide some brilliant brightness to your shaded locations.
Shade Varieties
There are a few different hydrangea cultivars that thrive in the shade. Some types can even thrive in zones 3 (which doesn’t warm up until later in the spring), which is one of the coldest growing regions. Let’s examine some of the best shade selections!
Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Snow queen’
The movie “Snow queen” is stunning. The flowers are stunning, as they are with all hydrangeas. These rose blush-colored blossoms appear in the middle of summer. The foliage of this plant is my favorite component. The leaves begin the season in a very deep green, gradually changing to a deep reddish bronze color, and finally finishing in that shade, offering a stunning splash of color to your fall landscape.
Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Alice’
With a height ranging between 12 and 15 feet, this Oakleaf Hydrangea is one among the biggest. In the summer, this plant blooms with incredibly deep cream-colored flowers. A woodland garden would be a truly lovely place for “Alice.” This cultivar would look especially beautiful if it were grown as a bordering hedge.
Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’
‘Annabelle’ enjoys partial shade and has some of the largest flowers in the hydrangea family (12 inches wide!). These enormous blossoms can be supported all season long by the sturdy stalks. This shrub can grow up to five feet tall and five feet broad, so give it plenty of area to expand. These enormous, all-white blossoms bloom for a long time.
In a mass planting, as a specimen shrub, or as a foundation planting, “Annabelle” would look lovely. These bushes should still be included in your cutting garden. Imagine a bunch of flowers that large! Wow!