Hydrangea (Hydrangea spp. ), which come in both evergreen and deciduous varieties, puts on a stunning floral display in the summer by producing enormous clusters of long-lasting blooms in the colors of white, red, pink, and blue. The majority of hydrangea varieties thrive in USDA plant hardiness zones 6 through 9. Some hardier cultivars, meanwhile, might be able to endure colder weather down to zone 4. Take cuttings from an established plant between spring and mid-summer to begin a new hydrangea.
Using clean pruners or a sharp knife, trim three stems to a length of 1 to 1 1/2 inches. The apex of each stem should have two to three leaves. To promote bushy growth, pinch the growing tip off each stem after pinching the leaves from the stem’s lower portion.
Each stem’s bottom inch should be coated with liquid, gel, or powdered rooting hormone. Fill each hole with a stem, placing the lowest leaves just over the potting soil. To make the stem stand upright, firmly pat the potting material around it.
Put the pot on a heat pad that has been preheated to 59 degrees. Put the pot on top of a refrigerator or other warm appliance if you don’t have a heat pad. Put the pot in a dimly lit area.
If the potting soil appears to be dry, lightly water it. Since the plastic bag will keep the potting soil moist for several weeks, cuttings typically don’t need to be watered. If evaporated water falls down the inside of the bag, pierce a hole in the plastic or open the top.
When the cuttings begin to sprout strong green growth, which shows that the cuttings have rooted, place each cutting into a separate 5-inch pot. Each cutting’s tips should be pinched to produce a bushy, full plant.
Place the pots outside in a protected area where the plants will be shielded from strong winds and sunlight. To maintain a mild moisture in the potting mix, water sparingly as needed.
Before relocating the hydrangea plants to their permanent in-ground placement, let them mature until the following spring. If you’d like, you can move them into bigger pots and give them one or two more years to mature. In either case, plant the seedlings as soon as there is no longer any chance of an early spring frost.
Can hydrangeas be grown from cuttings?
Although hydrangeas are often mistaken for perpetual flowers, they are actually woody-stemmed shrubs that have a different root system than non-woody, soft-stemmed plants. Because of this, trying to root hydrangeas in water, as you might with certain houseplants, rarely works. For best results, plant hydrangea cuttings at the right time in potting soil.
Like growing roses, there are different ways to grow hydrangeas. When the year’s new stems have grown solid and robust, in late fall or early winter, “hardwood” cuttings obtained from hydrangeas can be rooted. However, it takes a long time for hardwood cuttings to root. 1 The majority of hydrangea producers in the industry employ “softwood” cuttings because they root more quickly and produce superior results.
Can hydrangeas be rooted in water?
Rooting hydrangeas is not too difficult. While some people have succeeded in rooting them in water, many others (like myself) have never been able to do so.
The image to the right, which Susan Park Cole forwarded to us, shows how hydrangeas can be rooted in water. On sometimes, roots appear when an arrangement is left in water for a prolonged period of time. But in my experience, this approach more frequently fails than succeeds.
How can you start a hydrangea leaf?
Selecting a stem for cutting is the first stage in the process of rerooting hydrangea cuttings. For hydrangea propagation in the early fall, pick a stem that is at least 6 inches (15 cm) long, has no flowers, and is fresh growth. A new growth stem will be a lighter green than old growth. Be mindful that the entire shrub may be made up of new growth if you live in a colder region where the hydrangea dies back to the ground.
Take a sharp pair of shears and cut the stem off just below a leaf node after choosing a stem to propagate the hydrangea. A set of leaves will develop at a leaf node. The hydrangea cutting should have at least one more set of leaves above the chosen leaf node and be at least 4 inches (10 cm) long. Snip the cutting off the stem.
Next, strip all but the highest pair of leaves from the cutting. There should only be two leaves left on the cutting. Crosswise divide the two remaining leaves (not lengthwise).
Use rooting hormone to coat the cutting’s tip, if it is available. Hydrangea shrubs can still be effectively propagated without rooting hormone, however it will boost your chances.
Place the clipping now in wet potting soil. Ensure that the plastic bag does not touch the hydrangea cutting’s leaves as you cover the pot with it.
Place the pot in a shaded area away from the sun. Every few days, check the hydrangea cutting to make sure the soil is staying damp. The cutting will be rooted and your hydrangea propagation will be finished in two to four weeks.
That is all there is to know about hydrangea propagation. You can begin propagating hydrangeas for your yard or for friends and family with a little care and work.
How are hydrangeas rooted in water?
I am kind of thrilled to try out water propagation on the other plants as it has just been quite popular online (I’ll keep sharing the findings from the items we propagate as soon as I figure out what they are all!). However, some of the information I’ve read suggests that water propagation is not recommended for hydrangeas in particular since it results in a weaker root system, which makes them more likely to fail when you transplant them to soil.
Since I haven’t used it personally yet, I’ll also remark that a reader previously commented in a post that she hasn’t encountered any issues. So please let me know if you attempt it this way and are successful!
The other plants can be propagated in water quite easily:
- Grab a little plant cutting.
- Place it in a glass so that the stem is submerged in the liquid but that the leaves and other components are not (otherwise they would rot).
- Use a transparent glass so you may more easily track the root’s development.
- Water should be replaced every several days.
- Set up in a location with enough natural light (we’re using the bedroom windowsills because they have wonderful, filtered light from the window film).
How long does it take for cuttings of hydrangeas to root?
- Take a 5- to 6-inch-long clipping off a limb of the hydrangea shrub. According to the majority of experts, the cutting will thrive if it is taken from a branch that did not bloom this year.
- The bottom two leaf nodes’ lower leaves should be removed. A leaf emerges from the branch at the leaf node. At that time, the majority of roots will form.
- Reduce the largest leaves’ size by around 50%.
- Insert cuttings into damp vermiculite or sterile medium after dipping them in rooting hormone (this step is absolutely optional).
- Well-watered pot should be allowed to drain. Make sure the ground is damp but not drenched. Plastic wrap the pot and the cuttings. Use stakes to try to prevent plastic from coming in contact with the foliage.
TIP: Position cuttings in a well-lit, shaded area. Never expose fresh cuts to the sun. They’ll be heated in the plastic.
Wait to water again until the soil’s surface feels dry. Cuttings will decay if they receive too much water.
In 2-3 weeks, depending on temperature (faster in warm weather) and humidity, cuttings should start to grow roots. Some cuttings take as little as a week to take root. When a cutting is pulled and the pull is resisted, it is rooted. Reminder: It might not be allowed to reproduce plants that have been trademarked or registered.
I adore this simple approach. If you don’t have a lot of hydrangeas, you are only able to root a small number of new plants at once.
When you gently bend a branch down, the area where it will contact the ground has roughly 5 to 6 inches of leaves removed from it. In this location, remove a small amount of bark from the branch’s underside. Ascertain that at least one leaf node will be below the surface.
Don’t remove the branch from the parent plant. Lower the branch into a small trench that is approximately 2 inches deep and generously top it with soil. Put a block or stone on the area that will be buried to ensure that it stays there. Additionally, this aids in keeping the moisture surrounding the branch. Keep it occasionally watered. When the branch from the mother plant develops roots, break it off and plant it in a pot or the garden.
Hydrangeas like humid, partially sunny weather. On the north and east sides of your house, they work well.
Where can I find hydrangea seeds?
The initial step in learning how to cultivate hydrangeas from seed is to gather the seeds. It’s more difficult than you might imagine. In reality, each hydrangea blossom is made up of both tiny, fertile blossoms and beautiful, sterile flowers. The seeds are found in the fruitful blossoms. You must first gather the hydrangea seeds before you can begin planting them. This is how:
- Wait until a blossom starts to wilt and pass away. Keep an eye on it, and as the flower withers, cover it with a paper bag.
- After removing the stem, let the flower head to complete drying in the bag.
- Shake the bag to release the seeds from the blossom a few days later.
- Pour out the seeds with care. They are so little that they may be mistaken for dust.
After harvesting hydrangeas, you can immediately begin sowing their seeds. Alternately, keep them cool until spring and then begin planting them. In either scenario, surface plant the seeds in potting soil in a flat. Keep the soil damp and shield the seedlings from the wind and the elements. They typically take 14 days to germinate.
When should I cut grass?
Softwood cuttings should be taken between mid-spring and early summer. From the middle of fall through the middle of January is when hardwood cuttings are taken.
How to take softwood cuttings
- Fill your pots with compost and water them to get them ready for the cuttings before you take a plant cutting.
- Early in the day, when the plant stems are still wet, take cuttings. Use cuttings as soon as possible after placing them in a plastic bag to prevent drying out.
- If you want to take a cutting, pick a sturdy side shoot that has no flowers and cut a portion that is 5 to 10 cm (2-4 in) long, just below the leaf junction.
- The lower half of the cutting should be completely leafless, and the growing tip should be pinched off.
- Apply hormone rooting powder to the cutting’s bottom end. This lessens the chance of bacterial infection while assisting the cutting in growing roots.
- Make a hole in the center of the compost with the dibber or a pencil, then insert the cutting so that the lowest pair of leaves is just above the soil’s surface. Around the cutting, compact the compost.
- When all of the cuttings have been potted, name them, and either place them in a propagator with a bottom heat of 18–24 oC (64–75 oF) or cover each pot with a clear plastic bag and place it in an area with bright but indirect light. For ventilation, open the propagator vents every day or take the plastic bags off once a week for ten minutes.
- Water the compost frequently to keep it moist but not soggy. Depending on the plant, the cuttings may take six to ten weeks to take root. Examine the drainage holes in the pots for any indications that the roots may be showing.
- After the cuttings have taken root, they should be “hardened off” for two weeks by being kept inside at night and placed outside during the day.
- Replant the cuttings in larger pots once they have hardened off so they can continue to grow until they are big enough to be planted outdoors.
How to take hardwood cuttings
- In the fall, when the plants have lost their leaves and are dormant, take hardwood cuttings. When it’s cold outside, avoid taking cuttings.
- Prepare a small trench outside in a protected area if you intend to take numerous cuttings. This will house the cuttings for the most of the following year. Lay a layer of sand at the bottom of the trench, then backfill it with soil that has been amended with compost to ensure proper drainage. Use containers filled with a 50/50 mixture of multipurpose compost and grit if you only need a few cuttings or don’t have room for a trench.
- Choose a sturdy, pencil-thick woody shoot that has grown this year and cut it off just above the shoot’s base to take a plant cutting.
- Cut the shoot into lengths of 15–30 cm (6–12 in) after removing the tip. At the top of each length, make a slanted incision slightly above a bud. This deflects rain from the cutting and serves as a helpful cue as to which end is which.
- At the bottom of each cutting, make a straight cut right below a blossom.
- Each cutting’s lower end should be dipped in hormone rooting powder.
- So that one-third of each cutting is still visible above the soil’s surface, place the lower ends of the cuttings into the trench or pots. In trenches, space cuttings 15 cm (6 in) apart.
- Till the fall after, keep the cuttings in the trench or pots. Water during dry spells to prevent the compost from drying out.
- The cuttings can be replanted in their ultimate locations once they have developed roots.
What are the best plants to take cuttings from?
There are many appropriate plants to pick from once you understand how to take a cutting from a plant. Many delicate plants, including pelargoniums, petunias, verbena, argyranthemums, and osteospermums, respond best to softwood cuttings. Many deciduous shrubs, such as lavender, rosemary, forsythia, fuchsias, hydrangeas, lavatera, and buddleja, allow you to take softwood cuttings as well.
Most deciduous shrubs, roses, climbers like honeysuckle and grape vines, and fruit bushes like fig, gooseberry, redcurrant, and blackcurrant do well with hardwood cuttings.
It’s simple and pleasurable to add more plants to your yard by taking plant cuttings. Why not give it a try?