- Keep plants neat by deadheading and prune as needed (herbaceous only).
- When peonies become congested and produce fewer blooms, divide the plants.
- When the blossoms feel like soft marshmallows, cut the stems for bouquets. Water should contain Miracle-Gro for Fresh Cut Flowers.
When the peonies blossom, you can finally start to feel the arrival of summer. Around Memorial Day, when spring bulb flowers are starting to fade and summer blooms are beginning to emerge, these stunning perennials bloom profusely. Peonies are resistant to deer and rabbits, which is useful for gardeners who frequently experience issues with animals eating their plants. Peonies are frequently seen blooming despite years of neglect if you drive through old cemeteries or abandoned farmsteads. That is because to how simple peony are to grow!
How to Choose Peonies
Peonies come in four different varieties. They are forest peonies, tree peonies, herbaceous peonies, and intersectional peonies, in the order of blooming time. Herbaceous peonies, which thrive in zones 3–7, and tree peonies, which flourish in zones 3–9, are the two most popular varieties. Herbaceous plants often reach heights of two to three feet and spreads of two to four feet. With some types reaching heights of 7 feet, tree peony are more closely related to tiny shrubs. The type of peony you plant will depend on where you live and the style you’re going for because all peonies require similar maintenance. The focus of this paper will be on tree and herbaceous peony.
When to Plant Peonies
Fall is the ideal season to plant peonies. This is often when peonies purchased from a catalog will be delivered. It’s okay to plant peonies when you see them flowering and for sale in containers in the spring.
Where to Plant Peonies
Peonies require at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight every day, though in zones 8 and 9, some shade from the sweltering afternoon sun is beneficial. Additionally, picking a location with sufficient air circulation is crucial to avoiding fungal illnesses.
How to Plant Peonies
In somewhat damp, well-drained soil, peonies thrive. Dig a hole, take the plant from the pot, and plant container-grown herbaceous peonies (the kind you buy in pots) so that the top of the root ball is level with the earth (any deeper and the peonies will not bloom). Fill up the area surrounding the plant by combining the discarded soil with an equal amount of Miracle-Gro Garden Soil for Flowers.
Before planting bare root herbaceous peonies, give them a brief dip in a basin of water to rehydrate them. Create a planting hole that is big enough to fit the roots, mix the soil as previously mentioned, and place a mound of the blended soil in the middle of the planting hole. Place the roots atop the mound and let them fan out and descend. Using the remaining blended soil, fill in the remaining portion of the hole, making sure that the “No more than 1 to 2 inches of soil should be present around the plant’s eyes (or growth buds) in order for it to bloom.
Deeper planting is required for tree peony. Unless they are grafted, peonies should be planted in the same soil combination as above, 2 to 4 inches deep at the crown (where the roots meet the stem). Check the label to see if the plant has been grafted, and then plant it such that the “The plant’s graft union, where the grafted top and rootstock are united, is located 4 to 6 inches below the soil line.
How to Stake Peonies
Peony stems are prone to toppling over after it rains, and the blossoms can become big and heavy. For herbaceous peonies, the best approach is to cover each plant in a peony cage in the spring, before the leaves begin to sprout (picture metal supports with rings for the flowers to grow up through). This is far more effective than attempting to hold each flower stalk separately, and it also looks nicer than wrapping the entire plant in string and cinching it in like a belt.
One stake can be used to stake tree peonies. Place the stake next to the stem in the ground, and then use a piece of twine to loosely secure the plant to the stake.
How to Water Peonies
When planting, give everything plenty of water. Water the plants again when the foliage starts to emerge in the spring, and once more when the flower buds appear. Although peonies do not have a thirst, they will benefit from watering during dry spells for a year following the initial planting.
How to Feed Peonies
Your peony will benefit from a powerful combination of care that includes excellent soil and the ideal plant food. Give peonies the nutrition they require by feeding them Miracle-Gro Shake ‘n Feed Rose & Bloom Plant Food in addition to the soil improvements indicated above for stunning color and more flowers than unfed plants. Peonies should be fed twice a year: the first time, right after they emerge in the spring (when the new shoots are 2 to 3 inches tall but before the flower buds are pea-sized), and the second time, in the middle of the growing season (about three months after the first feeding), to help them develop sturdy roots before the arrival of winter. Make sure you adhere to label instructions.
How to Help Prevent Problems with Peonies
Although mostly fuss-free, peonies occasionally experience fungal issues. Browning and failure to open flower buds are symptoms of botrytis. Brown patches on leaves are a symptom of some fungus illnesses. Infected blooms and leaves should be simply pruned off and disposed of (do not compost) in order to control these problems. Additionally, keep the plants neat, remove old foliage at the end of the season, and deadhead spent blooms. Peony blooms occasionally draw ants, but they won’t hurt the plants, so you can ignore them. (Contrary to popular belief, peonies do not require ants to blossom.)
How to Prune Peonies
Cut back each flower stalk on herbaceous peonies once all of the blooms have faded to just above a leaf, low enough so that the stem doesn’t protrude above the rest of the leaves. Unruly tree peony can be trimmed either in the spring or the fall (right before plants go dormant). However, any stems you trim back in the fall will not blossom the following spring (as you will be cutting off the flower buds). After blossoming in the spring, you can prune. Whenever you choose prune, be careful not to remove more than 1/3 of the plant.
How to Divide Peonies
It is ideal to leave tree peony alone (undivided) so they can flourish for many generations in the garden. If the clumps have become too large or the flowering has slowed, herbaceous peonies can be divided. Herbaceous peonies can be divided by digging up the entire clump and rinsing it off to reveal the plant’s numerous roots and eyes (or buds). Leave as least one large root and three to four eyes per clump after cutting the plant apart with clean, sharp pruners. Replant, adhering to the bare root peony planting directions above. The plants might or might not flower the first year after dividing, so keep that in mind.
How to Cut Peonies for Bouquets
Timing is crucial. Buds should feel roughly as firm as a soft marshmallow when squeezed, which is known as the “soft marshmallow stage.” Examining the bud’s coloration is another method for determining when to cut. The majority of the bud’s exterior should remain green, but you should be able to make out approximately half an inch of the flower’s vibrant petals. Although cutting the flowers at this point lessens the possibility of bringing ants inside with them, it is still advisable to inspect the flowers before bringing them inside. Plants should open up when stems are placed in a vase of water. For longer-lasting blooms, change the water every few days and apply Miracle-Gro for Fresh Cut Flowers (vs. water only).
Ready to begin peony cultivation? To learn more about a product, to buy it online, or to locate a retailer near you, click on any of the product links above.
Planting Location
When planted in the appropriate spot with the suitable soil conditions, peonies are rather simple to grow.
The majority of cultivars thrive in zone 38 and favor a sunny location with good drainage.
In order to protect their plants from the heat of the noon sun, growers in hotter climes may wish to choose a position that receives some partial shade. Peonies will thrive in a sunny location all day in cooler climes.
Carefully choose the location where you will plant your peonies since roots may rot if they are placed in poorly draining soil. Raised beds can aid with drainage problems, and substantially altered clay soils are needed for good drainage in clay soils.
Soil Preparation
For every growing project, including producing peony, the quality of your soil is crucial. Spend the time necessary to ensure that the soil’s pH is close to neutral (6.0 to 7.0) and that nutrients and organic matter are dispersed throughout the soil column before you plant.
Although a professional soil test may seem intimidating, it is actually quite simple to obtain and will provide the finest information for improving your soil. Your local Cooperative Extension agency may evaluate the soil test results and offer guidance on how to supplement any nutrient deficits and how to modify the pH of the soil.
Here’s how to take a sample of soil:
Obtain a “slice” or boring of the soil profile from various locations inside your cutting garden using a clean trowel or shovel and a bucket.
To create a composite soil mix, thoroughly blend each boring in the bucket.
Take about 1 cup of dirt from the composite mix, put it in a bag, and send it to the lab.
Depending on the size of your peony cutting garden, it can be finished in under 30 minutes.
To test samples, there are many excellent soil labs accessible. After choosing a lab, make a plan to continue using it for all future soil samples; this will guarantee that your tests will be similar one year to the next. Most of the growers in our peony cooperative send their soil samples to Brookside Labs in Ohio since we have found them to be prompt, friendly, and reasonably priced.
Take your soil report to your neighborhood Cooperative Extension office for interpretation if you’re having trouble understanding the data when studying it.
They will evaluate the findings and provide you advice on the precise number of amendments required to increase your soil fertility. Before planting peonies (or any other flower or plant you choose to include! ), take the effort to improve the quality of your soil. Your future self will thank you for it.
The general practice for gardeners has been to order peonies in the spring and receive them in the fall, when planting season is. Depending on your growing zone, there is considerable leeway when it comes to planting time.
Warmer climate growers might wish to stay with fall planting because it enables the peony to establish itself during the winter before the summer’s strong heat sets in.
Many farmers have had success with planting peonies in the spring or the fall in milder climes. If you’re unsure, try planting in the spring and the fall; over time, the health of your plants will show you which is ideal for your microclimate.
Planting Depth & Peony SpacingHow to Plant Peonies
You’ve probably heard that when planting peonies, you shouldn’t plant them too deeply since you risk getting a lot of foliage instead of blooms. On the other hand, you shouldn’t put them too shallow either (or they may not survive winter).
Ideally, the root should be planted so that the “eyes” (or buds, which are found on the root at the base of each stem) are just 12 inches below the surface of the soil, giving them some protection without being buried too deeply.
A potted peony should be easy to put at soil level when being transplanted into the ground because it should already be planted at the right depth in the pot. With bare root peonies, it’s a little more difficult. Every root will appear different, and the eyes might not always be placed on the root as precisely as you might think.
Do your best to get the majority of the eyeballs in this situation at the proper level; mother nature will take over from there. Additionally, it’s critical to backfill the soil as needed around the peony roots to prevent air pockets from forming there, which could otherwise lead to rot from standing water or the plant sinking too far into the ground.
There are advantages and disadvantages to both techniques of planting peony; some gardeners choose to use single rows and others choose to use double rows. Double row plantings increase the yield from the available space, but they are likely to produce rows that are tightly packed and probably more susceptible to foliar disease because there is less air movement around the plants.
Depending on the width of the walkways between each row, peonies grown in single rows benefit from better ventilation but require less space overall.
Additionally, single row plantings may make it simpler to collect cut flowers because the entire plant can be reached from all cutting angles; yet, double row plantings have a fullness that is attractive to look at if you plan to have visitors to your cutting garden.
Plant peonies in a row with at least two feet between each plant because, although this seems like plenty of space, it becomes very close as the plants get older. When planted in two-foot increments, the green leaves of healthy peony will undoubtedly touch within the first few years of growth.
Consider spacing your peonies farther apart as available, and when growing in double rows, consider offsetting each plant to improve air circulation between plants. Raised beds should be at least three feet wide to allow room for roots to spread out throughout the growing area.
Irrigation for Peonies
Peony plants are quite vulnerable to some diseases, especially botrytis sp., which flourishes in conditions of poor airflow and heavy humidity.
Drip irrigation of your peony plants is therefore one of the best preventative steps you can take against foliar disease.
Numerous farmers are unfamiliar with the concept of establishing irrigation, but there are many readily available, inexpensive, and user-friendly systems that may be rapidly installed and endure for many years. The time you invest in implementing drip irrigation will pay off later on in terms of time saved and potential disease mitigation.
Use irrigation line with pressure compensating emitters if you are watering on a slope to ensure that your plants receive an even distribution of water. If you’re on level ground, simple drip tape may be bought for a very low price and, although being thin, may last for several seasons if holes are patched every spring.
Our peony cooperative’s farms get their irrigation equipment in large part from Dripworks. For smaller growers, Dripworks also offers a variety of pre-made kits and can offer guidance on an irrigation plan tailored to your growing setup.
Young Peony Plants: Years 13
A peony cutting garden takes time to grow, and the plants must be given time to stabilize before being harvested. Within the first three years, it is typical for a peony plant to flower very infrequently or not at all.
The plant may benefit from having time for root growth rather than the formation of flower buds, which are theoretically for reproduction, notwithstanding how disappointing this is to the grower. In an effort to promote the strong development of the roots, many seasoned growers would remove all the buds from their plants during the first few years of growth.
Having said that, there is a case to be made for allowing one blossom to open on each young plant to ensure that the root you received is the same cultivar as the one you ordered from the seller (if not, make sure to let the root supplier know so they can correct the issue).
Mature Peony Plants: Years 4+
Many growers say that their peony plants truly take off in the fourth year of growth. It’s an exciting time because the plants are now showing the attention that has been given to them.
Once planted, peony plants are typically simple to manage; just keep in mind to carry out the following essential tasks each season:
Instead of assuming, work amendments into the soil as the soil analysis suggests.
Maintain weed-free and well-watered peonies (note: although they do not like to have their roots in standing water, peonies do need to be watered thoroughly and regularly).
What’s up with ants on Peonies?
People frequently inquire about the connection between ants and peonies at our peony cooperative. In reality, ants visit closed peony buds to gather the nectar that oozes out of the peony bud’s exterior, just like bees do. Although the nectar provides the insects that collect it with carbohydrates, peonies can blossom on their own without the help of ants or any other kind of insect.
Which peony cultivars are right for my area?
How can a grower know which of the numerous lovely peony cultivars available are ideal for harvesting? In a nutshell, it necessitates investigation and testing.
Look for cultivars that grow tall, have strong stems, and may already be recognized for producing cut flowers. Plant features are typically indicated on the websites of root producers.
Double form peonies are suitable for beginning gardeners since they typically produce consistent blooms both on the plant and in the vase.
Planting a variety of bloom types and cultivars of peonies might be a wise move because some peonies are a little more temperamental or delicate than others.
Early flowering types may be preferred by growers in warm locations so that the crop is finished before the summer’s extreme heat sets in. Growers can experiment with a combination of early, mid, and late blooming cultivars in cool areas for a prolonged harvest season.
Our peony cooperative’s eleven member farms collaborated this winter to create a guide that lists the peonies that have served us best throughout the years. The guide specifically highlights 24 cultivars that reliably yield a large number of harvestable stems, can attain the required stem length required to meet USDA criteria for commercial stem production, and are the kinds that florists have told us they enjoy.
In addition, we provide advice on harvesting, cooler storage, and vase life as well as descriptions of bloom size, color, and form. The Passionate For Peonies Guide is available for free download, and we hope it will serve as an invaluable resource as you try to create your very own peony cutting garden.
Where can I buy roots?
Depending on the size of your cutting garden, there are various possibilities for buying peony roots.
Peony roots are widely available online and at nearby greenhouses for a compact and varied peony collection. This is a great approach to uncover roots that are not typically supplied by wholesale root merchants because these enterprises frequently have outstanding variety, including new arrivals.
Our peony cooperative frequently receives calls and emails from growers looking to buy roots, which we do not sell. Nevertheless, we are happy to recommend our preferred retail vendors, particularly those companies that have large collections of high-quality rootstock and offer excellent and prompt customer service.
Here is a list of our preferred retail partners. Aside: After the spring planting rush has subsided, many retail plant nurseries will offer discounts on their perennials, so now could be the ideal time to find locally grown potted peonies in your area.
A sizable peony cutting garden enables the producer to take advantage of greatly reduced wholesale root prices.
Depending on the size of root bought, wholesale peony roots are offered by the crate, which typically holds roughly 5060 bare roots.
In Alaska, we deal with wholesalers like Oregon Perennial Company, DeVroomen Garden Products, and Peony Shop Holland, to name a few, who are prepared to negotiate the convoluted logistical process needed to deliver high-quality roots to the far north.
You may probably locate a wide variety of wholesale growers who are willing to ship to your location if you are a grower in the lower 48 states.