How To Plant Bare Root Peony

Because of its stunning spring and early summer flowers and appealing leaves all year long, peonies are well-liked perennials. For herbaceous peony (USDA Zones 38), which totally wither to the ground in the winter, follow these recommendations. Tree peonies, which resemble shrubs and have woody stems that are always visible (Zones 49), have slightly different needs.

Herbaceous peonies should be planted in the fall, when they are dormant. Peonies that are planted in the spring may not bloom for a number of years, and if they sprout new shoots before setting down strong roots, they may even perish. In the fall, mail-order and neighborhood nurseries sell bare-root divisions. A part of the rooted crown with multiple dark red growth buds known as eyes makes up a bare-root peony division. Every bud in the spring sprouts a stem. Look for a division with at least 3 to 5 eyes because the more eyes a division has, the fuller it will appear.

Fall is the best time to plant bare-root herbaceous peonies.

1. Select a location with well-drained soil that is far from competing tree and shrub roots. Give each plant a three-foot-diameter area to grow in. Because peony stems are prone to breaking when heavy with buds and blooms, avoid windy regions or provide a windbreak. In most places, a setting with direct sunlight is ideal. If your springs are often warm and dry, pick a location with afternoon shade.

2. Make the soil ready. Peonies bloom most profusely when allowed to grow undisturbed in the same spot for many years, therefore it’s crucial to put them in well-prepared, enriched soil. Make a planting hole that is 18 inches deep and 2 feet wide. Compost or well-rotted manure should be incorporated into the hole’s bottom with multiple shovels. Add dirt, additional compost, and a cup of bonemeal to the hole halfway. Also incorporate roughly a cup of ground limestone if your soil is acidic. pH levels of 6 to 7 are ideal for peonies.

3. Place the peonies. Setting the division too deep prevents blossoming; only 1.5 to 2 inches of soil should cover the eyes. Position the eyes so they will be just.5 to 1 inch below the soil surface if you garden in an area with a mild winter. This will expose the roots to as much winter cold as feasible. After setting the peony in the hole, firmly yet carefully pack soil over the roots. Verify that there are no air gaps that can permit the plant to root too deeply.

4. Use a hose to water the plant with a soft stream. After that, surround it with a light mulch, like chopped leaves or evergreen branches, to help control soil temperature and moisture and lessen weed competition. In order for the plant to fully cool, mulch should be removed in the winter. The first year the peony may not bloom, but by the third year it should be in peak condition.

Should you soak peonies with bare roots before planting them?

The peony’s lengthy life is one of its greatest draws, in my opinion. Herbaceous peonies have been known to bloom consistently for more than 50 years, occasionally outliving the gardeners who first planted them! But the care you take in setting them up is the secret to their durability.

In my experience, the first few leaves turning color in the fall are the best time to sow bare root peony tubers. After a plant is described as being “bare root,” it signifies that when it was dug up from the ground, all of the soil surrounding the tuber was removed. Since bare root peonies are less expensive than container-grown plants and may be planted in the autumn, they have more time to establish a strong root system and will be better prepared for robust growth the following spring.

The first thing you should do when you open the package of bare root peony, whether you bought them from a neighborhood garden center or via mail order, is to make sure the plant is healthy. The tubers have to be solid, meaty, and mold-free.

In order to rehydrate bare root plants before planting, it is a good idea to soak them in a pail of water for two to four hours.

If the tubers can’t be planted straight away, keep them in their packaging in a cold, dry location, such a garage or basement. Check on the tubers occasionally to make sure they aren’t turning soft or moldy because warmth and moisture will encourage them to begin developing. They can be stored in this manner for about five days.

Planting Location for Peonies

Select a location with well-drained, slightly acidic soil that receives direct sunlight. Additionally, keep in mind that once established, peonies do not respond well to transplanting, so choose a location where they can be left alone.

Planting Peonies

Peonies should be planted with their eyes facing upward and close to the soil’s surface. Now, this is a crucial point to remember. Too-deeply planted peonies won’t produce flowers. Plant the tubers no deeper than 2 inches in northern gardens. They are buried approximately a half-inch deep in my garden in the middle of the South. This enables the mulch I apply over the planting bed to discourage weed growth and aid in moisture preservation.

After planting, give the area plenty of water and keep it continually moist until the ground freezes.

What to Expect After Planting Peonies

Your peony will develop foliage in the spring of next year, but it can take a few seasons before it blooms profusely. But you’ll be rewarded for your patience. Peonies are plants that are designed for lengthy lives, and as they become older, their blossoms get better.

Many of the traditional cultivars, including “Sarah Bernhardt” and “Festiva Maxima,” have big, heavy blossoms that have a propensity to topple over. Caging them in the early spring, right after the stems appear above ground, is one of the best strategies to prevent this. To support them, use a straightforward metal ring with legs, or simply enclose the plant in a section of wire fencing.

Caring for Peonies After they Bloom

Peonies also have a wonderful smell, but in order to ensure that there will be a lot of bloom the following year, it’s crucial to remove the seedpods and fertilize each plant in late spring or early summer after deadheading the faded petals. You might sprinkle a 5-10-5 mixture around the base. Per plant, about a handful is sufficient. You only need to feed plants at this time because fertilizer overuse can produce burn, fewer blooms, and lanky growth.

How deep should bare root peony be planted?

Do you intend to plant peonies this fall? Perhaps you’ve planted peonies before, but if not (or it’s been a while), here are a few things to consider before planting bare root peonies. In most places, the best months to grow bare root peonies are September, October, and November.

What location do you want to plant them in? In the front yard, a side garden, or beside the fence in the backyard? Perhaps you want to prepare a completely different location for your peony. Per peony plant, allot a footprint of around 30″ diameter (about 22″ for the compact varieties).

Choose a location that will receive at least one half day of sunshine; full sun is ideal. Look for spots that aren’t shaded for the majority of the day. While some shade can give peony flowers richer colors, too much shade results in fewer flowers per shrub. Think about the sun when thinking of peony.
Peonies prefer well-drained soils. For peonies, you frequently don’t need to adjust the soil, despite the fact that many gardeners do. Aeration, drainage, and rooting depth can all be enhanced by soil additives. By all means, add some of your well-rotted compost or potting soil to your soil if you believe it needs more nutrients, especially if you’ve had wonderful success with previous plants. Our peonies are grown in clay soil at Brooks Gardens, which drains nicely and becomes rock-hard in the summer if it isn’t watered. The peony thrive beautifully without the use of compost or other amendments.
A good potting soil can improve sandy soil’s ability to store water and nutrients.
Dig a hole that is about 1 foot wide and 1 foot deep when planting peony roots or transplanting peonies from containers (or a bit deeper). I like to use spaded soil to fill the bottom half.
The eyes (buds) of the peony root should be near the top of the hole, close to the surface. The root’s bottom will descend into the hole (or sideways). Spaded dirt should be used to slowly fill the hole and encircle the root. In USDA zones 2 to 8, the idea is to cover the top eyes of the root with just two inches of soil. In USDA zone 9, which has warm winters, cover extremely sparingly—possibly with less than one inch of soil.
Prepare your holes as described above, but fill them with enough dirt to raise the eyes of the roots so they are at or above ground level when you plant them. This will increase drainage. Soil should be applied to the root’s top. The top of your peony root will eventually be surrounded by a small mound or hill. Only two inches of dirt should be present above the tops of the eyes.
Your new plants need water.
See if the root has sunk too far in a day or two. If necessary, reset the peony root such that the top of the eyes are only a few inches underground. Too deep: less blooming, slower growth. Till the fall rains take over, keep mildly damp (not soaked).
No requirement to cover or mulch for the winter (perhaps only in sub-freezing areas). In the spring, REMOVE the mulch or bark if you choose to cover for the winter. If not, your peony is now too deeply planted. It is ideal to keep ground coverings like bark dust at least a foot away from the centers of peony plants.
Early in the spring, keep an eye out for growth. Perennial peonies take three years to completely establish. The first spring, the plants were small; the second, they grew larger; in the third, they reached their peak. Peonies typically don’t need to be divided and can live a lifetime.

How long does it take a peony to grow from the ground up?

What’s required for peony plants to prosper? These perennials require little maintenance.

They can survive a lifetime and thrive in USDA zones 2 to 8.
A must-have is well-drained soil.
A full day of sunshine is ideal, but a half-day is also acceptable. A prolonged bloom season may benefit from some shade.
The best time to grow peonies is in the fall, when you can plant them bare root.
Just an inch or two of earth is placed over the eyes before roots are planted (buds).
Peonies in pots can be moved in the spring or fall.
Early in the spring, fertilize.
After bloom, deadhead the wasted blooms.

In the first two years following planting, peonies develop a strong root system. The first year, they frequently bloom. The size of the plant and blossom both increase the next year. They mature and start to produce a profusion of flowers by their third spring. You may never need to divide your peonies because you can frequently enjoy your peony plants in the same location for decades (unless you want additional plants to grow or share).

In the fall, plant peonies from bare roots. When planted between late August and early November, they will grow more feeder roots more quickly. We have planted in various months of the year (bare root or from pots). I’ve tried planting some in December and January, but they won’t develop much root growth in the first few months. Instead, they will lay in the ground, waiting for the ideal moment to grow. If the chance presents itself, I take chances when planting. I don’t believe I’ve lost any plants because of the time of year I planted them; perhaps slower root development the first year. Sometimes planting a root during the “wrong time of year” is preferable to caring for it in a container. In my experience, peony plants with adequate roots grow and enlarge in the third year, regardless of when they were planted.

Peony plants in pots (containers) can be moved in the spring or the fall. Additionally, bare root peonies can be potted up in the fall or early winter and planted in the spring. Store potted peonies slightly moist in a garage or shed when temperatures fall below 10 degrees Fahrenheit for extended periods of time to protect them from severe freezing/thawing/freezing.

Peonies adore the sun, and for the optimum growth and bloom, they need at least a half day of it (full sun is ideal). A little bit of shadow is acceptable and can help your peonies bloom with more vibrant color; just make sure they get at least a half day of direct sunlight. (Too much shade will result in little to no peony flower and foliage).
The optimum place for peony plants to flourish is in the ground, although some gardeners are growing one or two in sizable patio pots. For optimal results, use a large container of 10 gallons or more due to the peony’s relatively massive roots. Make sure it has good drainage, and don’t forget to water it more frequently than a peony that was planted in the ground. Large raised beds are also a good choice for peonies.
Peonies can grow in a variety of soil conditions and prefer well-drained clay soil. Although you can improve your soil, it is frequently unnecessary. Our farm’s clay soil is well-drained and supports the growth of our peonies. You can adjust your soil if you’d like to increase the organic matter and nutrients.
Dig a hole that is roughly 15 by 15 inches for the planting site, then fill it with the spaded soil. In order for the root to sit just below or at ground level, only the necessary amount of dirt should be removed.
With the “eyes” (buds) facing upward, place the peony root at any angle and downward. One to two inches of soil are deposited on top of the “eyes” of the roots, which are positioned close to the surface of the ground (buds). Be careful not to bury peony roots too far. Imagine doing this by placing your bare-root peony “just below ground level” or at ground level with just a few inches of soil mounding over the root.
Gardeners claim success with planting the peony root near ground level with just a touch of soil (about one half inch) over the eyes in warmer climates (The South, California), where peonies can be grown.
Itoh Intersectional peonies have very enormous roots, and some of their “eyes” are located on a woody stem. To completely enclose the eyes, you might position these peony roots at an angle. Compared to other herbaceous peonies, itoh peonies can be planted a little bit deeper.
Immediately after planting your peony root, water it. Make sure to keep giving fresh peony plants water every week or so until the Fall rains take over.
Check the peony root carefully; if it has sunk too far, pick it up and add more dirt beneath it. For optimal results, make sure the soil is only one to two inches deep. Peonies that are planted too deeply may only produce foliage and no flowers.
When you plant bare root peonies in the fall, they will develop new feeder roots. The roots buried in the ground won’t be harmed by the winter’s frigid temperatures (garden). Peonies enjoy chilly winters.
A very large container with good drainage is necessary when planting peony in pots or containers. Make sure that the soil is only one to two inches thick around the eyes. Water the potted peonies and keep them moist, but allow a period of near-dryness between waterings. Protect potted peonies from freezing temperatures in the winter. Roots of planted or potted peony plants are not harmed by frost; rather, potted peonies may be affected by prolonged arctic blasts or deep freezing.
When you first plant or transplant your new peony plants, give them plenty of water. Deeply water a peony, then wait a few days before watering it again. During dry conditions, watering first-year peony roots/plants every two weeks should be sufficient. The roots’ establishment will be aided by the wetness.
You might not need to water your peony again until you experience dry weather in the spring or summer until the autumn and winter rains start.
Peony plants are quite drought tolerant after they are a few years old, though they do benefit from a good watering every few weeks during the hot summers. Peonies do not require frequent watering after they are established.
Early in the spring, we apply 1/4 cup of fertilizer (10-20-20) to the drip line of our mature peonies. Following blooming, you can fertilize your peony plants. While some gardeners fertilize their peonies yearly, many do not. For the best outcomes with your soil, you might wish to experiment.
Use a slow release fertilizer when fertilizing potted peonies because other fertilizers will burn the leaves. In the early spring, right before plants bloom, we fertilize.
After flowering, remove flower/seed pods. You can cut the stems of your peonies to any shape you like.
Leave seed pods on the stems until they burst open in the late summer if you wish to allow them to mature. The seed can be sown right away in the ground or on potting flats and kept moist until the arrival of the fall rains. Some seeds will grow the following spring, while others will do so the following year.
In the late fall, trim peony stems all the way to the ground. To keep the garden clean, remove the stems and leaves. Peony stems and leaves should not be composted.
Northwest regions don’t need to be mulched. Mulch is sometimes used by gardeners in regions with particularly harsh winters; however, if you do this, make sure to remove the mulch in the spring; otherwise, your peony will be “planted” too deeply.

Check for the following signs if your peony start to lose their vitality over time:

The root may have been buried too deeply as a result of seasonal additions of mulch or bark dust (without springtime clearance). In our northwest environment, peonies don’t require protection because they enjoy the chilly winters.
Trees and plants in the landscape may offer an abundance of shade.
It’s possible that tree roots grew through the peony roots, crowding them.
too much nitrogen
They might also have lost their vigor, like some individuals, and require reviving. By digging up, dividing, and replanting a division with three to five eyes in a different location that gets good sun and drainage, you can revitalize your peony. They’ll recover quickly.

The winners of Gold Medal and Award of Landscape Merit peonies from the American Peony Society (APS) are featured on our peony descriptions. The American Peony Society has accorded commendable distinction to the flowers and/or growth environment of these peony.

Peonies that have earned the Award of Landscape Merit (ALM) demonstrate exceptional decorative value, overall landscape look throughout the growing season, and dependable performance across North America. The APS will assess numerous other peony types deserving of the title in the years to come. The ALM award is still in its infancy.

Court of Honor for the peony “Ave Maria” at the 2013 APS floral exhibit; Court of Honor for the peony “Coral Supreme” at the 2012 APS floral exhibit; and we were honored to receive Best in Show – Grand Champion awards for the peony “Bob” at the 2011 APS floral exhibit are just a few of our Brooks Gardens’ award-winning peonies. In 2018, “Lavon” won Grand Champion, and “Raspberry Charm” won Court of Honor.