Echinacea may reach heights of up to four feet, making indoor gardening difficult. However, if you have a sunroom or balcony that receives plenty of sunlight, echinacea will thrive there.
Echinacea may be grown in pots.
Echinaceas, which have daisy-like blossoms in a variety of colors, must be the pinnacle of prairie perennials.
They are also really simple to grow. They should bloom in any rich, well-drained soil in a south- or west-facing location from mid-summer to mid-autumn. The pollen, nectar, and seedheads that the flowers produce will be beneficial to both pollinators and birds.
New echinacea types are being created all the time, in part due to the rebirth of prairie-style planting. For a prairie border, try mixing them with some of these best plants.
Echinaceas can also be planted in pots and containers—for inspiration, take a look at this vibrant late-summer pot.
The double variation “Southern Belle” has outside ray florets that resemble skirts and a ruffled center.
Echinacea ‘Magnus’
Flowers on Echinacea purpurea ‘Magnus’ are a deep purple-pink color. Compared to the parent species, where the petals appear more swept back, especially as they age, the huge petals are held on a more horizontal plane. 75cm H x 45cm S.
Echinacea ‘White Swan’
Beautiful cultivar “White Swan” features all-white petals with golden-yellow centers. This variety pairs well with plants of any color because to its white blossoms. 60cm H x 45cm S.
Echinacea ‘Art’s Pride’
The thin petals and warm butternut hues of “Art’s Pride” make this cultivar stand out. And to top it all off, the blossoms have a faint scent. 60cm H x 60cm S.
Echinacea ‘Sombrero Salsa Red’
The “Sombrero” series, which all have confined growth patterns, sizable blooms, and broad outer petals, includes “Sombrero Salsa Red.” Rich red petals with chestnut brown centers characterize the flower variety “Sombrero Salsa Red.” 50 cm H x 60 cm S.
Echinacea ‘Southern Belle’
The double variation “Southern Belle” has outside ray florets that resemble skirts and a ruffled center. The center ruffle grows larger and more dramatic as the blossoms ripen. creates a beautiful cut flower. 50cm H x 50cm S.
Echinacea ‘Golden Skipper’
Compact cultivar “Golden Skipper” has blooms that are a deep yellow color. This fast-grower is useful if you need to quickly fill a gap. 45 cm H x 45 cm S.
Echinacea ‘Milkshake’
Echinacea “Milkshake” is a stunning double cultivar with blooms that are milky in color. The center of young blooms is orange, but it gradually goes away as the flower ages. Perfect for the border’s center. 70cm H x 50cm S.
Echinacea ‘Sunset’
Consider “Sunset” if you’re looking for a more mild cultivar. It belongs to the “Big Sky” series, a collection of hybrids between Echinacea paradoxa and Echinacea purpurea. The subtle dusky crimson color of the blossoms gradually fades as they ripen. 100 cm x 60 cm x 100 cm
Echinacea ‘Irresistible’
An attractive double variety with pink-orange blooms. The tiny cultivar “Irresistible” is ideal for weaving between other plants in the middle and front of borders. 60cm H x 45cm S.
Echinacea ‘Hot Lava’
‘Scorching Lava’ features fiery red blooms that are perfect for a hot border. Consider combining with plants like heleniums and kniphofias, or for more inspiration, see our section on plants for a hot border. 80 cm x 40 cm x 80 cm.
Echinacea ‘Mooodz Awake’
This fast-growing, small variety with pink flowers has vibrant magenta blooms. The flowers, like the majority of echinaceas, have strong stems that shouldn’t need any further support. 50cm H x 45cm S.
Echinacea ‘Rainbow Marcella’
Echinacea ‘Rainbow Marcella’ has vivid, lava-colored blossoms that transform into dusky raspberry as they age. Find additional plants to grow that have orange blossoms. 45 cm H x 60 cm S.
Does echinacea require direct sunlight?
Moderate/Watering: Full sun is ideal for flowering, though plants can take some light shade. Once established, these plants are highly drought-tolerant because to their deep taproots.
Echinacea purpurea may grow in a variety of soil types, although it likes sandy, well-drained loam with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0. No additional fertilizer will be required if a few inches of organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, is applied around the plants in the early spring.
Echinacea is rarely plagued by pests or illnesses, and none are severe enough to call for protective measures. Plants do draw beneficial insects, particularly soldier beetles that resemble fireflies and eat caterpillars and aphids.
Companion Plants: Dwarf Goldenrods (Solidago) and Salvia are excellent companions, as are perennial Geraniums, dwarf types of Catmint (Nepeta), and perennial Geraniums. Shorter perennials can conceal occasional legginess. Perovskia, Phlox, Sedum, Veronica, and Monarda are companion plants that grow taller.
Reflowering: Even without deadheading, echinacea has a lengthy bloom season, but this method will lead to more blooms. Early in the summer, plants can be pruned by half for a later blooming period but a more compact form. There are few sights more pleasant than watching the small, golden birds wave about as they pick up the seeds, so leave some seed heads to serve as food for goldfinches.
Plant transplantation and dividing: Because of the taproot, elder plants might be challenging to transplant. However, it is possible if you dig deeply and leave a substantial amount of soil around the roots.
Calendar of Care
Late Spring: Only if the climate is exceptionally dry or if the Coneflowers have just been planted, add extra water.
Summer: You can deadhead if you’d like, but remember to leave some seeds for the goldfinches. In August, keep an eye out for beneficial army beetles and avoid harming them. In June, plants can be pruned back by half for later-flowering, more compact growth.
Fall: In cooler climates, a light mulch is good. Because the seed heads feed hungry birds and accumulate snow into gorgeous tiny puffs, plants may survive the winter.
Is echinacea a perennial plant?
Yes, because echinacea is such a prolific self-seeder, it will come back every year and frequently in the most unexpected places.
The perennial echinacea is resilient and can withstand extremely chilly winters. Plants go dormant in the winter and reappear in the spring; you should prune them back at this time for the summer.
An important component of the appeal of these perennial favorites is the ease with which they can be grown.
How can I begin growing echinacea inside?
Listed below are some tips for growing echinacea. These resilient perennial perennials are commonly known as coneflowers. They produce wonderful cut flowers and are very alluring to pollinators. When planted in large numbers, they look amazing.
Timing 8–10 weeks before planting outside, start seeds indoors. Echinacea may bloom in its first year if it is started indoors in the late winter. In the early spring or early fall, it can also be seeded directly. In 10 to 21 days, germination should take place.
Starting Seeds should only be sown 3 mm (1/8) deep. Provide complete darkness and a soil temperature of 21 to 25 C if beginning indoors (70-75F). Once sprouts start to appear, offer plenty of light.
Growing In any typical, well-drained, slightly acidic soil, space plants 30-38cm (12-15) apart. For optimal results, water plants frequently while trying to keep the leaves as dry as possible. Over the winter, keep seed heads whole to feed birds and protect important insects.
How are Echinacea seeds grown indoors?
Echinacea seeds can be seeded early indoors and moved outside after a frost, or they can be sown directly in the garden in the summer or in a pot.
Indoor Seed Sowing
- Use a seed starting kit to sow echinacea seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the date for planting them outside in the spring.
- Lightly round the seeds with 1/4 inch of seed starting mixture.
- Maintain 65–70°F soil moisture.
- Seedlings appear after 10 to 20 days.
- As soon as seedlings appear, give them lots of light on a sunny windowsill or grow them 3–4 inches beneath 16–hour-per-day fluorescent plant lights that are off for eight hours at night. As the plants get taller, turn up the lights. Because they will become too hot, incandescent bulbs will not function in this process. Do not leave lights on continuously for 24 hours; most plants need a time of darkness to flourish.
- Seedlings don’t require a lot of fertilizer; feed them when they are 3–4 weeks old with a starter solution (half the strength of an indoor plant food), as directed by the manufacturer.
- When transplanting seedlings into the garden from small cells, you may need to move them to 3 or 4 inch pots once they have at least 2 pairs of genuine leaves so they have room to grow robust roots.
- Seedling plants must be “hardened off” before being planted in the garden. By relocating young plants to a protected area outside for a week, you can acclimate them to outside circumstances. At first, be sure to shield them from the wind and the light. If frost is expected at night, cover or bring pots inside; then, in the morning, reintroduce them to the outdoors. The plant’s cell structure is toughened during the hardening off process, which also lessens transplant shock and scorching.
Direct Sowing in the Garden
- Direct sow at least 12 weeks before the ground freezes in the late summer.
- Take out the weeds and smooth and level the top 6 to 8 inches of soil after working in organic matter.
- Sprinkle seeds evenly, then add 1/4 inch of fine dirt.
- Lightly compact the dirt and consistently moisten it.
- In 10 to 20 days, seedlings will appear.
In the Garden, Plant Potted Plants:
- Choose an area with good, rich, moist organic soil that receives direct sun.
- Turn the dirt under to a depth of 6 to 12 inches, remove any debris, and lightly rake the soil as level as you can to prepare the bed.
- All gardens benefit from the addition of organic matter (leaf mold, compost, well-rotted manure), which is crucial in recently developed communities.
- To lessen transplant shock, plant during gloomy weather or in the late afternoon.
- For each plant, create a hole that is sufficiently large to hold the root ball.
- To promote healthy root growth, unpot the plant and use your hands to gently release the root ball.
- Set the top of the root ball so that it is level with the dirt around it. Up to the top of the root ball, cover with soil. With your hand, forcefully press the earth.
- Use the plant tag to indicate its location.
- To save water and prevent weeds, thoroughly moisten the soil and sprinkle a thin layer of mulch (no thicker than two inches) on top.
How to Grow
- Keep weeds under control while the plants are growing. In order to suppress weeds, either cultivate frequently or apply a mulch to stop their germination. Weeds compete with plants for water, space, and nutrients.
- Mulches also support stable soil temperatures and moisture retention. When used as a mulch for perennial plants, weathered bark or finely chopped leaves give the bed a more natural appearance and, as they decompose over time, enrich the soil. Mulches should never be placed on a plant’s stems to avoid potential decay.
- Perennials need to be watered carefully to get them started. To encourage young roots to swell deeply, water thoroughly at least once each week. One inch or so below the soil’s surface, the soil should be wet. By placing your finger in the ground, you can verify this. Water in the early morning hours so that all of the leaves have time to dry. The majority of perennial plants need an inch of rain or weekly irrigation. Using a rain gauge, you can determine whether you need to add water.
- Some protection from strong winds and intense sunlight may be required until plants grow established. Additionally essential is good airflow.
- A mild fertilizer can be administered after new growth starts to show. To prevent burn damage, keep granular fertilizers away from the plant’s top and leaves. Use moderate amounts of a slow-release fertilizer because greater amounts could promote root rots.
What is the ideal location to grow echinacea?
Echinacea needs full to partial sun to grow well. At least four hours of sunlight every day are required for plants. Since the plants are native to woodland borders, they will flourish in locations with morning shade and afternoon light, or the opposite.
Echinacea may thrive in rocky, poor soil, but not in soggy, waterlogged soil. Compost should be used as a mulch around newly planted plants.
Coneflowers grow in clumps and require space. One plant will typically grow bigger, but it won’t spread through roots or rhizomes and take over the entire garden. Check the mature size stated in the plant description to help you choose the appropriate spacing because the final size of the plant clump depends on the cultivar. Leave 18 inches between plants if it is anticipated that they will spread to be 18 inches broad. Echinacea must be planted where you want them since they have deep taproots. They dislike being relocated after being established.
Echinacea plants should be planted in well-drained soil in full to part sun in the spring or the fall. Echinacea is also simple to cultivate from seed, but it needs a period of stratification—a cold, damp time—in order to germinate. In the fall, scatter seeds widely (after hard frost in the north and prior to winter rains elsewhere), lightly covering them to deter birds from eating them. In the spring, seeds will begin to sprout. One benefit of starting with transplants is that the majority of plants will bloom during the second year.
Does Echinacea Need Deadheading?
Despite the fact that the majority of us would want to spend the entire day in our gardens, real life interferes. Instead, we choose simple, low-maintenance plants that, despite only requiring a few minutes here and there of care, give the impression that we spent hours in the garden. Coneflower is a plant that I frequently recommend since it can withstand poor soil, extreme heat, drought, full sun to part shade, and it blooms continually whether you deadhead it or not.
Aren’t coneflowers sounding quite good right now? Getting better Echinacea attracts and feeds pollinators and a variety of butterflies when it is in bloom (such as Fritillaries, Swallowtails, Skippers, Viceroy, Red Admiral, American Lady, Painted Lady, and Silvery Checkerspot).
After they stop blooming, their seed-covered “cones serve as a valuable source of food for many birds from late summer to winter (such as goldfinches, chickadees, blue jays, cardinals, and pine siskins). Therefore, when people ask me about deadheading Echinacea plants, I normally advise them to only do it during the flowering period in order to keep the plant looking lovely, but to leave fallen flowers in the late summer to early winter for the birds.
In order to stop Echinacea from reseeding itself all over the garden, you can also deadhead it. Older forms of coneflower can self-seed, though not quite as aggressively as Rudbeckia. Newer hybrids typically do not self-sow and do not generate viable seed. Birds aren’t really interested in these more recent hybrids either.