As a member of the mint family, this plant has fragrant foliage that deters rabbits and deer. However, it might draw cats (they might rub against it and smell it).
Do deer consume catmint?
Deer dislike the fluffy, fragrant leaf of catmint. ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ is a very small variety that is ideal as an edging for sunny walks, rose beds, and vegetable gardens. When grown in full sun and well-drained soil, it is fairly simple to grow. It requires no further watering or fertilizer; simply plant it and forget it. By early summer, it will repay you with bundles of vivid lavender-purple blooms. Try “Cat’s Meow” if you’d like something a little bigger that still maintains its tidy structure.
Can catmint deter deer?
Are you trying to find a tough plant that also draws pollinators? Where other plants frequently struggle, catmint does well. Give this plant some room and at least half sun (or more), and watch it bloom all summer long.
This helpful shrub naturally deters deer. It will prevent deer from destroying other plants in your garden. Catmint is a drought-tolerant, multipurpose perennial herb that is ideal for your pollinator garden.
What type of groundcover is resistant to deer and rabbits?
When choosing ground covers to restrict deer, there are two pachysandras to take into account. Allegheny spurge (Pachysandra procumbens), a plant native to the United States, is related to Japanese pachysandra (Pachysandra terminalis). Japanese pachysandra grows 3 to 4 inches tall and spreads 7 to 8 inches. In some places, it might be invasive. Native Allegheny spurge spreads more slowly and grows 4 to 9 inches tall. The Japanese pachysandra is the more robust ground cover in North America and will cover an area more quickly. However, the effectiveness of these two pachysandras for deer management is equal.
- Both of them can be cultivated up to USDA plant hardiness zone 5 in the north. They are evergreen ground cover plants that grow in zones 7 to 10.
- The perennial groundcover known as Allegheny spurge (Pachysandra procumbens), which is endemic to the eastern United States from Kentucky to Florida, is native to that region. It is liked by people who enjoy native American plants. The counterpart, meanwhile, is Asian.
- Both ground cover plants should be cultivated in soil that is high in organic matter if you like the shade. Water them frequently, but also check that the soil is able to drain. Grow in shaded regions because direct sunlight may cause the leaves to fade.
Since shady locations are sometimes problematic in landscaping, you might as well take advantage of their tolerance for shade. Pachysandra’s foliage is a more beautiful, darker green in full shade. The more sun it receives, the lighter its leaves become. The foliage of Allegheny spurge develops silvery specks as fall approaches. Allegheny spurge blooms in the spring with spiky, aromatic flowers that range in color from white to pink. The pachysandra in Japan blooms in white.
You can take cuttings of the stems or leaves of both varieties of pachysandra if you desire more of them. However, it is simpler to just divide pachysandra in the spring because it spreads via rhizomes. Search the rhizomes of your plants by digging under them. You can see roots supplying some of the plants above each node. To divide the plants, divide them at these nodes. Use caution while utilizing the plants around kids or pets because they might be poisonous.
What flowers deter deer and rabbits?
- Shovel
- Spade
- pulverized red pepper
- Garlic with onions
- spicy food
- purified, spring, or filtered water
To plant in your garden, choose flowers that are resistant to rabbits and deer. Astilbe, daffodils, marigolds, snapdragons, daylilies, primrose, and peonies are some flowers that rabbits and deer typically avoid eating.
The lovely flowers that keep deer out of your garden are the snapdragons.
Your flowers that are resistant to deer and rabbits should be planted in an appropriate location. In a location that receives six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day, plant flowers with the label “Full Sun.” In a location that receives up to four hours of direct sunlight each day, grow flowers marked “Partial Sun.” Choose a planting place that offers your flowers the right amount of sunlight and has well-draining soil.
Does catmint reappear each year?
- ‘Walker’s Low’ plants are 30 inches tall and 36 inches wide, with lavender-blue flowers. As a side note, the name is not short because it derives from an Irish garden. It is actually almost as tall as the “Six Hills Giant.” Walker’s Low was chosen by the Perennial Plant Association as their Perennial of the Year for 2007.
Don’t restrict yourself to just these four options if you feel driven to hunt for catmint in your neighborhood garden centers. Numerous other top-notch cultivars are also readily available, including “Dropmore,” “Blue Wonder,” and “Junior Walker,” a scaled-down variety of “Walker’s Low” that stands 16 inches tall.
- Catmint tends to grow wider than tall, so give it lots of room.
- Even while catmint likes direct sunlight, it can also tolerate moderate afternoon shadow.
- Water new plants or transplants until they can survive on their own. Following that, established plants can withstand heat and drought.
- Never fertilize it again. Catmint prefers well-drained, somewhat fertile soil. In fact, a plant may flip over or split in half if the soil is excessively rich. In that case, trim the plant back to make it look neat. Compost added in the spring or fall will provide the plant the nutrients it needs to thrive.
- After the first blooming flush of the plants has finished, shear them back by a third or more. The plants will be more orderly, their size will be limited, and this will encourage a second rush of blossoms later in the summer. The plant will still bloom often and maintain its lovely appearance during the stifling summer months even without being sheared.
- Over the winter, keep any dead foliage in place to help protect the crown. Wait till the beginning of spring to trim it.
- Divide catmint every three to four years, preferably in the spring or early fall, to maintain it healthy. During the first growing season, until the plants take root, keep it well-watered.
- Catmint varieties can grow to be quite huge. Pinch the plant back in the spring after it has grown a few inches tall to encourage a bushier growth habit if you wish to limit the plant’s total size.
- Cut a vertical chunk off of an established clump of catmint in the spring to reproduce it. Make sure the division has a strong root system and a number of new shoots. Till the plant takes root, keep it well-watered.
- Cuttings can also be used to spread catmint. Before flower buds grow in the spring, clip healthy shoots at a length of three inches. The cuttings should be placed in a moist medium, such as sand or a peat-perlite mixture. Within two to three weeks, they should start to root.
- Catmint is typically unaffected by either pests or illnesses. The only issue that can occasionally arise is leaf spot. There is no consensus that the severity of this fungus illness justifies control measures.
- Experience has taught me that some cats are drawn to catmint. If you’re worried about this, cover newly planted or transplanted catmint with chicken wire to stop your cat from consuming it or rolling about in it.
- This plant attracts butterflies and bees like crazy. Additionally, hummingbirds adore it.
- You’ll adore this plant if your garden is plagued by four-legged animals other than cats. Deer, voles, and rabbits are deterred by the foliage’s minty aroma. THIS is a plant that pays for itself, at last!
Does catmint get pruned back in the fall?
Catmint and I have a love-hate relationship. If you have a LOT of space for it to take over, it’s a terrific plant for providing cold tones to a space. Fortunately, catmint can be severely trimmed at any time of the year.
You can trim these back in the fall to just a few inches above the ground, but your garden will have a hole in it until they grow back flush in the spring.
If catmint is the cornerstone of your perennial border, regular summers pruning should be combined with more restrained trims of around half the plant’s height during the fall.
Catmint: is it an invasive species?
They believed it would entice cats to prey on rodents hiding about the farm or house. However, recent research suggests that catmint may not only be discovered around the foundations of old European homes and barns. According to a recent USDA study, termites are unlikely to dig tunnels through soil where catmint flourishes. Naturally, a moat made of this plant would prevent these pests from invading the wood of a hut or cottage.
Termites, mosquitoes, and cockroaches are all repelled by the same chemical that draws cats. Nepeta cataria, also referred to as common catnip, is a plant that contains it. Nepetalactone, a terpene found in these herbs, has been shown to be several times more effective at repelling insects than harmful DEET. To influence a cat, the plants release oils that must be breathed rather than consumed. This explains why cats are so prone to rolling around in catmint plants. More volatile oils are released from the foliage when it is bruised. Cats can detect airborne odors down to one part per billion.
Not all felines react the same way to these herbs. In fact, roughly 30% of household cats might not even respond to catmint. It’s a hereditary reaction that can vary in intensity from person to person and is inherited. Strangely, until they are at least 3 months old, extremely young kittens rarely react to nepetalactone.
There are a dizzying variety of plants in the genus Nepeta. The large invasive plant known as real catmint is described above. It grows to a height of three feet and bears few white blooms. It usually only appears in herb gardens and has very nothing to recommend it in terms of aesthetics. Due to its hardiness up to Zone 3, it is a fantastic choice for gardens in the north.
Through natural cross-pollination and human breeding, numerous species have been introduced into gardens over time and transformed into new varieties. The outcome is a wide variety of garden-worthy catmints that are much better prospects for your yard than the usual kind. Keep in mind that these immigrants won’t be as resistant to the cold as the species is. The majority, but not all, are sterile, preventing plants from spreading outward in the absence of viable seed. Simply deadhead the flowers after they are spent to stop seed formation in order to completely avoid self sowing.
The Six Hills Giant, which stands 3 feet tall, is the most impressive version. Late in the summer, foot-long spikes of dark violet blooms appear on lush, spherical plants. It is generally accessible and a superb option for novice growers.
Nepeta racemosa “Walker’s Low,” which has a shorter size, is an excellent edging plant. A gentle carpet of blue fills up the front of a border. It only grows to a height of 18 inches but produces dense clusters of vividly blue flower spikes. Walkers Low and Six Hills are resilient to Zone 5.
Catmints typically grow best in sandy, well-drained soils, although they will grow almost anywhere that isn’t moist. Late in the growing season, they can become rangy, and regular trimming is beneficial to prevent the taller forms from flopping in the rain.
Today, catmint merits another look as a natural pest deterrent for eco-friendly dwellings. wherever there is a chance of infestation, plant. Kittie won’t overdose, though, as cats all seem to have a sense of proportion.
Can catmint be reduced in amount?
Catmint (Nepeta spp. and cvs., USDA Hardiness Zones 38) has a way of lifting my mood. This plant impresses me because it can stand out in even the most hostile circumstances, whether it’s along a cobbled walk in England or in the median planters that line Chicago boulevards. Over the course of several weeks in the summer, the beautiful lavender-blue blossoms appear to shine just as brilliantly in the garden as they do above a hard expanse of concrete and macadam. The easiest catmint delight for me, however, is seeing my cat Boo fall prey to its seductive charm.
Despite the fact that some varieties have been misused to the point of ubiquity, I have a lasting affection for catmint. And it was because of this affection that I wanted to try as many different kinds as I could in order to determine which ones were the greatest. It’s true that when catmints are mentioned, many gardening buddies scrunch up their faces. Now, while I freely acknowledge that I won’t mind if catmint and Knock Out roses (Rosa ‘Radrazz’, Zones 49) never see another planting, I’m not quite ready to give up on this wonderful collection of hardy perennials. This is particularly true of a few particular varieties that stand out for their durability, seemingly endless blooms, and attractive leaves.
Top performers
In terms of bloom time, general habit, disease resistance, and low maintenance requirements, these types were picked as the best.
The most well-liked plant in this genus is undoubtedly “Walker’s Low” (N. racemosa ‘Walker’s Low’, top photo), based on its popularity and the numerous prizes it has won. Walker’s Low is taller than one might anticipate at 30 inches. The name does not represent its size; rather, it relates to the garden in Ireland where it first appeared. One of the most magnificent floral displays ever is produced by luminous blue blossoms that are carried in upward-curving plumes up to 12 inches long. The attractive gray-green leaves are completely hidden by the flowers for several weeks when they are in full bloom in late April. Walker’s Low pairs beautifully with a range of perennials and is essential for softening sharp edges along patios and paths. In my garden, “Walker’s Low” and Japanese roof iris are a favorite combination (Iris tectorum, Zones 59). I adore the way the delicate, billowy catmint contrasts with the broad, spiky iris leaves, as well as the color echo of the lavender-blue blossoms.
The flower and foliage of “Sweet Dreams” (N. subsessilis ‘Sweet Dreams’) are a welcome change from those of other catmints. From early summer to late fall, charming pink blooms are arranged in generous clusters and tastefully complemented with burgundy bracts. By catmint standards, each trumpet-shaped blossom is 1 inch long, which is quite large. The lush green foliage will surprise you if you assume this is simply another catmint with gray-green leaves, especially when it turns colorful in the fall. Despite being a large plant, “Sweet Dreams” remains compact throughout summer. In contrast to other catmints, Japanese catmints (N. subsessilis and cvs.), such as “Sweet Dreams,” like wet soils and partial shade, though they are equally comfortable in full sun. However, deadheading is necessary to prevent “Sweet Dreams” from having a nightmare appearance after the first flush of blooms since the brown, spent flowers persist.
When great gardeners are honored with magnificent plants, it is lovely. Such a plant is called “Joanna Reed” (N. ‘Joanna Reed’), after the late Pennsylvania gardener who discovered it. One of the neatest catmints I’ve ever produced, and this quality secured a perfect score in our testing. It didn’t require deadheading because of its sturdy stems, which never flopped, and because new growth appeared swiftly to cover the wilting flower stems. I find it impossible to imagine “Joanna Reed” without blooms because of the constant display of huge violet-blue flowers that cover the wide-spreading, compact plants from spring into October. Many catmints boast about the attractiveness and unpalatability of their dusty green foliage.
Greek catmint (N. parnassica), according to a short internet search, is more popular in European gardens, but it’s still worthwhile to look for this rare beauty here. Greek catmint is robust and audacious. However, the stems of our test plants only grew to a maximum height and width of 4 feet. Stems up to 6 feet tall are possible. The tint of the fragrant leaves lies midway between green and gray-green. Beginning in early summer and continuing into early October, long spikes of tiny lavender blooms, each less than half an inch long, are densely populated. Greek catmint has the presence to dominate any garden and will cheerfully take all the sunlight you can throw at it.
I believe the catmint “Six Hills Giant” (N. “Six Hills Giant”) is the standard by which all other catmints should be measured. The word “giant” is used to indicate the massive plant size and the extravagant floral display. Long flower spikes attract attention starting in late spring. However, like many catmints, ‘Six Hills Giant’ may start to relax or even recline a few weeks into the flowering period. This was true in our testing. After the initial flower flush, don’t be afraid to bash it back to promote the growth of new, stronger stems. Although it may be difficult to consider giving up blossoms, there will be many more to come. For the ideal display, place “Six Hills Giant” next to virtually anything pink in the garden.
Select Blue (N. faassenii ‘Select Blue’), chosen for its blue flowers, is a superior addition to the group of long-blooming catmints. From midspring to midfall, I don’t think we experienced a day without flowers. The flowers are actually lavender with a darker calyx that gives them a swarthy appearance, despite claims that they are a darker blue than the straight species (N. faassenii). Late during the season, the low, mounded habit remained solid without shearing. For its tenacity and resistance to drought, the xeriscape specialists at High Country Gardens in New Mexico advise “Select Blue,” and we can vouch for its impressive performance in typical garden settings as well.
Getting down to the nitty-gritty of catmint
Catmints are tough, free-flowering perennials that typically like full sun and well-drained soils for growth. However, some are well-liked for xeriscaping because, once established, they can withstand drought. When lavenders are not hardy, they are often referred to as “poor man’s lavender (Lavandula spp. and cvs., Zones 59), which is an acceptable analogy. Here are some additional details concerning this category of plants that you should be aware of.
Catmints are incredibly floriferous from early spring to the end of the growing season. Their unique tubular, two-lipped blossoms identify them as belonging to the mint family. Even when the flowers have faded, colorful calyces still improve the floral arrangement.
Through slicing off a piece of an established clump with a spade, you can proliferate by spring division. There should be numerous young shoots and a sizable root system in each fresh division. Catmint cuttings will take root quickly if they are cut from healthy shoots before the flower buds appear. The cuttings should take several weeks to root if you place them in a moist medium like sand or a peat-perlite mixture.
An essential oil found in the leaves and stems causes cats to exhibit a range of behavioral reactions. Eating the leaves may have calming effects, while rubbing, licking, or biting them creates a momentary high. According to all accounts, cats are especially intoxicated by catmint, or catnip (N. cataria*). You unfortunately have limited options for preventing cats from mauling (and occasionally squashing) your plants. Although most plants will recover fast following an attack, barriers may be your only alternative.
Although Japanese catmints (N. subsessilis and cvs.) prefer moist soils and don’t mind partial shade, wet or soggy areas can be the death knell for most catmints. Catmints frequently appear on lists of deer-resistant plants because they are rarely troubled by disease or pests.
It’s simple to ignore the leaves when there are so many blooms to catch your attention. Many catmint species are known for their fuzzy, gray-green leaves, although some, like Siberian catmint (N. sibirica), have huge, green leaves instead. Finding it difficult to tell if something is catmint? Another distinguishing characteristic of the mint family is square stems.
High fertility merely promotes floppy behavior. Simply shear the older stems down to the young leaves coming from the crown when stems start to flop over and flower output begins to decline. Plants that have been sheared will recover in a few weeks and resume their natural appearance.
Catmint should only be pruned in the spring or once you are certain that the growing season has ended, as it can be ugly in the winter. Even late in the growing season, cutting it back stimulates it to resprout, and the new growth is cold-sensitive. Any potential winter damage is avoided by waiting until spring.