Zinnia seeds can still be planted now for late summer colour that will endure until the first frost. Additionally, they produce stunning cut flowers with a lengthy vase life.
Even the most inexperienced gardener should grow zinnias because they are one of the tried-and-true garden flowers. My first memories of gardening are when I first encountered zinnias. The bush beans and tomatoes set aside for zinnias were a constant source of conflict. My favourite annual flower is still the zinnia, and they now have a prime location next to my back deck where I can enjoy them in the warm weather.
Growing zinnias is simple; they prefer full sunlight and well-drained soil. They may be planted directly in the garden or transferred. Plant them in a peat pot that can be placed directly into the garden or planting bed if you decide to have a head start and want to transplant so as to avoid disturbing the roots.
There are many different types of zinnias. They come in sizes ranging from 6 inches to nearly 4 feet, from dwarf to enormous. The flower heads are available in many different forms, including single and double flowers, spidery shapes, and domes.
The amazing variety of hues is the best feature. The palest pastel hues to the brightest hues are all available in zinnias. They come in solid, multicoloured, striped, and specked patterns.
Dead heading zinnias is advised by Michigan State University Extension to ensure flowering from early summer through frost. Zinnias are encouraged to continue performing by dead heading throughout the season. But because zinnias fatigue, I advise putting them in succession every two weeks. I intend to plant in succession beginning in late May and continuing until the first week of July, roughly. This ensures spectacular blooms through the end of September. It’s not too late to plant some zinnia seeds for colour that will persist through the first frost in the late summer.
In addition to their amazing garden display, zinnias make fantastic cut flowers and may be used anywhere you need a splash of colour. Many zinnia cultivars can stay in a vase for seven to twelve days. The mainstay of the farmer’s market is zinnias as well. Flower farmers would tell that zinnias are one of the most profitable flowers to grow due to their vibrant colours, ease of maintenance, and extended vase life.
The zinnia variants “Benary’s Giant” and “Cut and Come Again” are two of my favourites. Their surnames are biographical. On tall stems that stand between 40 and 52 inches in height, “Benary’s Giant” has huge blooms and dazzling flowers. Cutting the stem just above a bud junction will encourage “Cut and Come Again” to produce continuously throughout the growing season, as will all zinnias.
Can zinnias be planted in the late summer?
One of my favourite garden tasks is caring for a cutting garden that produces fresh flowers all year long. Most people are unaware that zinnias may be planted into the late summer and enjoyed until the fall, despite the fact that they are a popular addition to spring cutting gardens. Zinnias grow well in hot climates and are simple to grow from seed. Because the temperature is typically a little dryer in the fall, zinnia growing conditions are ideal. I advise sowing zinnia seeds by August 15th to enjoy them all fall long. After the first frost, they will go extinct.
Full sun and well-drained soil are preferred by zinnias. Sow seeds 9–12 inches apart. Pinching zinnias when they are young is beneficial when they are grown for cut flowers. Longer flower stems and branching are encouraged by pinching. When the second or third true leaf set occurs, pinch off the new growth. Only one pinch is necessary. Additionally, zinnia cuttings encourage additional branching and flowering. I advise deadheading the spent flowers if you’d rather leave them on the plant. Deadheading is the process of removing wilted flowers to promote new growth and prevent disease.
Although zinnias can withstand short periods of drought, they occasionally need irrigation. Keep overhead irrigation to a minimum. Use a drip tape, a soaker hose, or just let your hose drip at the plants’ bases. The spread of illness can be stopped by watering the plants at their bases. Those who have ever raised zinnias are likely to have encountered zinnia leaf spots. Leaf spots on zinnias begin at the plant’s base and progress up the leaves, finally killing the plants. Different fungus diseases can cause zinnia leaf spots, which can be treated with fungicide sprays. Since you will have plenty of time to enjoy zinnias before the spots take over, I often advise against spraying them. However, if you must, consider rotating mancozeb with myclobutanil (Spectracide Immunox) every seven days to ward off the spots.
Although there are numerous zinnia seed variations available online, I find that whichever variety the neighbourhood garden centre provides works just as well. I suggest giving them all a try! Old favourites include The Benary Giant, State Fair, and Cactus Flowered Mix. Good fortune!
What month should zinnia seeds be sown?
Light: Full sun is ideal for zinnia growth and flowering. Even in warmer climates with afternoon shadow, they can flower there, but they may be more prone to disease and produce fewer flowers.
Soil: Organically rich, fertile soils with good drainage are ideal for growing zinnias. Because zinnia seedlings are susceptible to rotting in cool, damp soils, having well-drained soil is crucial.
Plant zinnia seeds in rows or clusters spaced a few inches apart. Once the plant has four leaves, thin to 8 to 18 inches apart, depending on the variety.
Planting: Plant zinnias in the spring, just about the time you plant tomatoes, when all threat of frost has passed. Growing zinnias from seeds straight in the garden is simple. Start seeds inside four to six weeks before to your last frost date for earlier flowering.
Can zinnia seeds be sown in July?
Nowadays, not many flowers are cultivated from seeds, but zinnias are worthwhile. These simple summer annuals reward the grower with colourful flowers up to six inches across that complement both urban and rural gardens and make lovely bouquets.
My summer flower garden last year got off to a late start, with my zinnia seeds not being planted until July. May or June is the suggested time so that plants can establish themselves before the sweltering summer heat.
I went to my local nursery and purchased many packages of zinnia seeds as I hadn’t placed a catalogue order. But I also bought some zinnia seedlings in the hopes that they would produce a yield earlier.
To my amazement, the nursery seedlings only blossomed 10 days before my seed-grown plants did, despite having a lead start. Although the blooms in each group were beautiful, the plants grown from seeds cost a fraction of what I paid for nursery plants, and the seeds produced hundreds of plants—many more than I needed.
Zinnias are available in a huge range of shapes and sizes. The huge, cactus-flowered blossoms with mop-headed daisy-like heads are my favourites. The tiny lilliput (pompon) species, whose thickly packed petals resemble parrot feathers, is another favourite of mine.
The Haageana or Mexicana variety features 1 1/2-inch flowers with pointed petals bordered with a contrasting shade, as opposed to the more formal dahlia-flowered zinnias, which have huge blooms with flat petals.
It’s laughably simple to grow zinnias. Children frequently perform on par with skilled gardeners. Contrary to petunias or snapdragons, the seeds are huge, making it easy to seed them and give them the proper spacing.
Make a furrow in the prepared soil that is about 1 inch deep. The seeds should be deposited four inches apart. To prevent the seeds from being washed away, cover with one-eighth inch of soil and water lightly. Till the seeds sprout, which typically takes four to eight days, keep the soil moist. Transplant any surplus seedlings to bare places or pots after thinned to a distance of 10 inches.
Mildew is the main issue with zinnias, especially where I live near the shore. Planting zinnias early enough in the summer to allow them to bloom before late September, when the days start to get shorter and the plants get more damp at night, can lessen its effects. It’s also a good idea to water the roots solely, leaving the foliage dry. Spray a fungicide, such as Funginex, on the leaves at the first indication of a white powder coating them.
I experimented with Z. augustifolia one summer (also called zinnia classic, Z. linearias, or thin-leaved zinnia). Although its 1 1/2-inch golden-orange semidouble blooms were not as eye-catching as modern hybrids’, the plants did have one enticing quality that made them stand out: they did not develop mildew, even in my humid climate.
Now I find that the Z. elegans and Z. augustifolia hybridizers at Burpee have produced a pink, 2 1/2-inch bloom that is supposedly mildew-resistant. In the flower garden this summer, I can’t wait to test this new type, Rose Pinwheel.
I’ll also plant pink cosmos, pink statice, rose cleome, blue salvia (S. farinacea Victoria), rose shades of strawflower, and gloriosa daisies around it. Rose Pinwheel’s gold centres should compliment the gold daisies well, and blue is a great complementary hue in general.
I’ll start the strawflowers in flats a few weeks prior to planting them in the garden because they take longer to flower. The seeds for all the other plants will be planted right in the garden. Although blue salvia is simple to cultivate from seed, it takes several months before it starts to bloom, making it a summer flower that I typically buy from the nursery.
All of my plants will be cultivated next to soaker hoses so that I may use water as effectively as possible. My irrigation system is basic, despite the fact that some irrigation systems are fairly complex (with computer timers and multivalve stations).
I use 150 feet of soaker hose connected to the garden hose for each tier of my garden where annuals are sown. Twice a week, I let the water run gently for about five hours. I may decide whether to apply more or less by keeping an eye on the soil’s moisture level.
Several well-known zinnia strains can be acquired at garden centres for gardeners who like the speed and convenience of seedlings.
The biggest is State Fair, a dependable favourite that has been around for years and is dahlia-flowered. On 12- to 18-inch bushes, the Peter Pan, Pulchino, and Cut-and-Come-Again zinnias yield three-inch flattened blooms. Thumbelina, the smallest zinnia, is adorable but only blooms for a little period of time, making it seem hardly worth the effort.
Zinnias are a favourite of Terry Hartog, who grows thousands of bedding plants for his Vintage Nursery in Lakewood. Because of its relatively big blossom size and compact growth, he prefers a mass planting of Peter Pan that is surrounded by the white vinca Little Bright Eye. The bottom leaves of zinnias can grow unattractive, thus the vinca conceals them.
According to Terry, both vinca and zinnias are suitable for hot climates since they can withstand the heat.
The best assortment of zinnias may be found in catalogues like Burpee Gardens, Warminster, PA 18974 (with zinnias on the cover), and Park Seed, Greenwood, SC 29647-0001. The majority of neighbourhood garden centres also carry a range of zinnia seeds.
In June, can I still plant zinnias?
Even if your plants for the following crops—beans, squash, chard, carrots, and basil—are already established in the ground and flourishing, June is a great time to start a second crop so that it will be ready for a bountiful late summer harvest when the initial crops of these essentials have completed.
Every month I normally start some seeds, and by late June I’m done with the summer-harvesting crops. I sow seeds for fall crops in July and August, including several kinds of lettuce and mesclun blends, spinach, radishes, kale, peas, broccoli raab, braising mix, carrots, and Asian delicacies like mild mustards, stirfry mix, and pak choi.
Flowers can be planted in June along with later harvests! Increase the planting of annuals like marigolds, sunflowers, cosmos, zinnias, four o’clocks, nasturtiums, etc. that typically fade by late summer. You’ll have a wonderful second flush of bloom this way, and you may harvest armfuls for Labor Day!
Starting seeds for perennials and biennials that will bloom the following spring is also a good idea in June and July. I put seeds in a safe area and then transfer seedlings in the fall so they can overwinter and blossom the following spring, giving me a nice spring welcome in the garden.
What to sow:
While it is true that plants that bear fruit, such as tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, must be planted now, many, if not most, summer crops will develop even faster from seeds planted in the early summer, when the soil is thoroughly warmed up and teeming with life. You’ll be shocked by how quickly seeds sprout and expand rapidly.
Plant cucumber, bean, edamame, summer and winter squash, pumpkin, melons, beet, carrot, chard, and scallions seeds without hesitation. In a location with strong light but out of the direct, hot sun, plant a crop of “cut and come again” salad mix, braising mix, mild mustards, and any of our mesclun blends. Plant heat- and sun-loving herbs liberally, keeping the seed beds well-moisturized. Examples include basil, marjoram, chives, oregano, thyme, and sage. To enhance your enjoyment of summer afternoon gardening, don’t forget to put some fragrant scented basils in containers.
Can you already plant zinnias?
For an early start, sow zinnia seeds indoors in February. From March to June, sow zinnia seeds or transplant them. In bloom from April through November are zinnias.
Can annuals still be planted in July?
I want to start a garden even though I will be away from home for many weeks in late May and early June. How late in the year can I start bedding plants or seeds for annuals?
A: It’s a good thing you aren’t planting before departing on your trip, to start with. It is not a good idea to leave a newly planted garden or landscape unattended for more than a day or two, even if a neighbour offers to keep an eye on it and provide water.
This is due to the fact that the world of new plants, shrubs, and trees is constrained by the soil and moisture resources present nearby. Count on yourself to complete these crucial activities; a friend is likely to neglect them.
All the moisture that roots have access to is quickly removed by a few hours of warm sun or even windy circumstances, at which point the wilting process starts. Once more, freshly planted plants at any time require close observation for a few weeks or months to ensure they never experience thirst. For this reason, it’s advantageous to be nearby while gardens are planted.
A last-plant date will vary depending on what will be planted. In Michigan, most trees and bushes can be planted almost all year long as long as the ground is not frozen.
In Michigan, the growing season is quite brief. Through mid-June, you can safely plant fast-growing annuals like marigolds, lettuce, zinnias, radish, and a few other well-liked veggies and flowering plants.
Planting lettuce and radishes, which have a very short growing season and can be harvested 35 to 40 days after sowing, is simple through the end of July. Most vegetable seed packets include information on days to maturity.
For annuals growing in larger containers, transplants are typically available through July 1 and beyond. These enormous sizes are very expensive; for example, $6 for a single marigold that was only available a few weeks previously in a cell-pack for $.25. Local garden centres that cultivate their own produce frequently sow multiple harvests of well-liked flowers and vegetables, scheduling these such that fresh plants are accessible from early May to late June.
By the third week of June, in my experience, bedding plant choices and quality start to decline. By July 1, options are quite limited, and the only real option is to purchase big annuals at gigantic costs.
Although it is simple to find inexpensive plant material, the likelihood is that it is past its prime. There is probably just enough soil in cell packets to keep the plant healthy for four weeks. After that, the plant’s general form and vigour deteriorate as the roots become too large for the limited space.
The first two weeks of June are, in my opinion, the best time to plant in the majority of Michigan’s regions. Given that stock is readily accessible in garden centres from early May onward, many gardeners undoubtedly start their seeds and transplants much earlier than that.
Tomato growers go to considerable efforts to establish their plants early and then protect them from frost. In the Lower Peninsula, frost-free periods last into early June; for a large portion of the peninsula south of Midland, May 30 marks the last day of predicted frost.
Planting annuals too close to Memorial Day doesn’t seem to be very beneficial. The soil is still cool even though there is a small but worthwhile probability of a late frost. For plants to thrive, the soil and air must be warm. A plant planted on May 20 and its twin planted on June 10 are likely to have the same size, number of blooms, and general vigour by July 1.
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