We simply refer to them as “geraniums”. They are among the most often used container plants, despite not actually being geraniums. They belong to the genus Pelargonium. What a mouthful, huh? True geraniums exist in the form of perennial cranesbills, but they don’t resemble the flowering plants we usually refer to as geraniums.
With the exception of the distinction that perennial cranesbill geraniums will come back every year and zonal geraniums, now classified as Pelargonium, are topical perennials typically grown as annuals, the confusion with the names can be traced back to disagreements between botanists over classification.
You can grow zonal geraniums as perennials if your climate is similar to South Africa’s tropical one. There are three Pelargonium species that are more frequently cultivated, along with zonal geraniums:
- Green Ivy Geranium (Pelargonium peltatum) These geraniums have a trailing habit and ivy-shaped leaves, as suggested by their name. The plants are frequently used as spillers in containers because their flowers are smaller and less showy than those of zonal geraniums.
- Red-Flowered Geranium (Pelargonium domesticum)
- The oil in scented geraniums’ leaves is what gives them their fragrance. All kinds of scents, including lemon, rose, mint, pine, fruits, and even chocolate, can be imitated by them. The leaves can have a variety of forms, while the flowers are often small and unimpressive. Many of them can be utilized in cooking in addition to their decorative and fragrant appeal.
- The geraniums royal and angel (Pelargonium domesticum)
- The Regals are big, bushy plants with flowers in striking colors and are also known as Martha Washington geraniums.
Bushy plants known as zonal geraniums are typically used for bedding and containers. There is a good degree of variability because there has been a lot of breeding, especially for blossom size, quantity, and colors.
- Leaves: Succulent stems bear oval leaves. Zones of bronzy-green or maroon are frequently seen on the leaves.
- Flowers: Flowers come in transparent white, pink, salmon, orange, red, magenta, lavender, and bi-colors and can be solitary (5 petals) or double.
USDA Hardiness Zones 9–12 are the hardiness zones. In essence, zonal geraniums are tropical perennials. Although they are frequently planted as annuals, if they have adequate protection and a warm winter, they may overwinter in zones as cool as Zone 7.
Mature Size: Size varies according on the type. There are newer types being bred for height and spread, as well as some dwarf geraniums that will never grow taller than 5 to 6 inches. Most are typically between 5 and 24 inches (12 and 60 cm) high by 12 and 15 inches (30 and 38 cm) wide.
Bloom Period: Zonal geraniums begin to bloom in the middle of spring and continue to do so until the first frost. After the blossom fades, deadhead the entire flower stalk to promote further blooming.
Recommended Varieties:
- Pink and white bi-colored pom-pom flowers are called “Appleblossom Rosebud.”
- ‘Black Velvet Rose’ – Bright rose-pink flowers and dark, chocolate-brown foliage with just a thin ring of green.
- “Calliope Dark Red” is a hybrid of ivy-leaved and zonal plants with double, dark-red blooms.
- ‘Divas Orange Ice’ is an F1 hybrid with creamsicle-like flowers that are bi-colored white and soft orange.
There are more options available every year. There are Pelargoniums with spiky star-shaped flowers, cactus-shaped flowers, and tulip-shaped flowers if you can locate a reliable source. There are also cultivars with ornamental leaves, which are cultivated more for their patterned and variegated foliage.
Design Suggestions: Plant snobs have a terrible reputation for zonal geraniums. They have been regarded as vulgar and unoriginal. Even though too many of the vividly colored plants can start to look out of place, they do well in a variety of pots. Brighter reds complement similarly vibrant flowers like portulaca or nasturtium and are particularly stunning on their own. Less intense pinks and salmons go well with blue and purple flowers, while lavender hues especially pop next to vines of the Huechera or sweet potato, which have chartreuse foliage.
Soil: Zonal geraniums prefer a slightly acidic soil with a pH of 5.8 to 6.5 but are not overly picky about it. (The soil must drain effectively because these plants dislike being wet for an extended period of time.)
Zonal geraniums can be planted from seed, cuttings, or transplants. The conventional method of growing geraniums and preserving popular kinds involved taking cuttings. If you decide to take cuttings, be sure to utilize only strong, healthy plants.
Starting Geraniums from Seed: Although the seeds are typically for F1 hybrids, geranium can be simply started from seed. Geranium seedlings are engineered to resist disease and bloom well in the sweltering summer months.
8 to 10 weeks before to the latest date of frost, sow seeds. They should be kept warm, between 70 and 75F (21 and 24C), and wet while they germinate because it can take them up to 2 weeks. Before planting, scarifying the seed will help promote germination.
Before putting young seedlings outdoors, harden them off. After being planted, they should blossom after about a month.
Zonal geraniums don’t require a lot of food, but since they are typically planted in containers, a light application of your preferred fertilizer every two to four weeks can keep them healthy.
They appear to blossom more profusely when you somewhat stress them by watering just after the soil has totally dried out for a day or two. Just be careful not to dry them out for too long or they will start losing their leaves and dying.
Your plants will require some winter protection if you don’t live in USDA Zone 9 or higher. You can bring them inside and cultivate them as houseplants in a window that receives enough of natural light. You can either overwinter your geraniums in their dormant form or take cuttings in the middle of the summer and move these smaller plants indoors.
Pests and issues: When grown outdoors, zonal geraniums are generally not susceptible to insect pests. Aphids and whiteflies can become an annoyance indoors.
- Root or stem rot brought on by ill-drained soil.
- Gray mold or botrytis, which forms grayish fuzz on the leaves and subsequently a slimy mush, especially in humid or moist circumstances.
The National Garden Bureau deserves special recognition for selecting the pelargonium as its 2012 Plant of the Year and for providing research for this article.
Does zonal geranium regrowth occur annually?
A Zone of Geraniums They are produced from clippings since they do not generate seeds. a typical sight in nurseries that is colorful and lively. to a height of 18 inches. Usually a one-season bloom, but if they enjoy where they are planted, they might come back.
How are zonal geraniums in pots cared for?
Gardeners have traditionally favored geraniums. They smell wonderful, are colorful, and are simple to grow. How to cultivate geraniums in your house and garden is provided here!
(Note: This page is about Pelargonium plants, sometimes known as geraniums or storksbills. This is not a page about “hardy geraniums, also referred to as cranesbills.
Geraniums are normally kept indoors to overwinter, even if they may be kept outside throughout the warmer months of the year. In contrast, if given enough light, they can bloom all year long indoors.
Geranium or Pelargonium? A Case of Mistaken Identity
Early in the 18th century, Dutch traders who were traveling through South Africa brought the plants that we now refer to as “geraniums” to Europe. Botanists misclassified these new plants into the same genus because they resembled the hardy wild geraniums that are already present throughout Europe.
Botanist Carl Linnaeus of Sweden included them in the genus Geranium in 1753. Pelargonium, which refers to the long, sharply pointed shape of their seedpod, was used to reclassify these new “geraniums when it was later revealed that they differed from European geraniums in the shape of their petals, the number of stamens, and other features.
However, people still refer to them by their old common name, “geranium,” even if we really mean “pelargonium.”
- You can grow geraniums as annual blooms or as indoor plants. They can be kept outside in a sunny area throughout the warmer months of the year (between your local frost dates).
- If keeping geraniums as indoor plants, make sure to do so in the late summer or early fall when overnight lows begin to consistently fall below 55F. (13C).
- Pay great attention to the size and color of geraniums when purchasing them. Healthy stems and leaves will not be straggly or discolored on top of them or underneath them. A plant with evident insect indications should also be avoided. Mealybugs, whiteflies, and spider mites are typical indoor plant pests.
- To prevent root rot, put plants in containers with drainage holes.
- When planting in pots, use a well-draining potting mixture rather than heavy, clayey soil. Geraniums dislike being planted in mucky, compacted soil.
- Place the plants where they will receive 4-6 hours of sunlight per day for the best bloom.
How to Care for Geraniums
- After letting the soil somewhat dry between waterings, water it again well.
- Water plants significantly less throughout the winter, but make sure the roots are not completely dried up. Given a time of hibernation throughout the winter, when they consume less water and don’t grow as much, geraniums thrive. For additional overwintering tips, see the section below.
- Regularly deadhead spent flowers to promote blooming.
- Pinch back the stems to encourage bushiness and prevent legginess.
- Fertilize approximately every two weeks throughout the active growing months. Half-strength a fertilizer that is water soluble When the plant should be dormant in the winter, avoid fertilizing.
- Repotting geraniums can be done in the spring to promote new growth or if they appear to need revitalization.
Overwintering Geraniums
- If they receive plenty of sunlight, geraniums that have spent the summer outdoors can be kept indoors. The sun may not be strong enough in northern regions in late winter to promote buds on some cultivars.
- Lift the plants before the first fall frost (you can find your local frost dates here), and use a sharp, clean knife to shapely prune the stems back to about 6 to 8 inches. In the low-sunlight environment they are about to enter, they shouldn’t have to maintain substantial amounts of leaves. A simple technique to increase the number of your plants is to save a few stems for rooting.
- Place the “mother plant” in the smallest pot you can find—just big enough to hold the roots—and fill it with ordinary potting soil.
- The plants should be kept in the shadow for a week before being moved to a sunny location and kept cool.
- Geraniums thrive in temperatures between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit (10 and 16 degrees Celsius) at night during the winter, but they can also withstand lows of 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 degrees Celsius) and highs of 80 degrees Fahrenheit (27 degrees Celsius), provided they are kept relatively dry.
- Cut off all the old leaves when the spring growth begins.
Keeping the new growth alive is the only challenge that can compare to getting it to appear. Here is some assistance with that:
- Only offer tiny quantities of water when the leaves begin to droop. Don’t feed or fertilize the plants. These plants must have some downtime.
- Pinch back your overwintered geraniums in February if you want them to bloom by Memorial Day. Take the plants outside and move them to beds or pots, as you like, once warm weather returns and all threat of frost has passed.
- Containers are ideal for growing the Common or Zonal Geraniums (Pelargonium x hortorum) (as well as outdoors).
- Hanging baskets, window boxes, and containers are all extremely popular places to use Ivy-Leaf Geraniums (Pelargonium peltatum).
How to Root Stem Cuttings
The majority of geraniums readily take root from stem cuttings when placed in soil, sand, water, perlite, or another rooting medium.
- Make a slanted incision 4 inches below the tip of the stem, above the node where the leaves emerge, with a clean, sharp knife. Cut the grass immediately below a node. Remove all except two or three leaves, any buds, and the stipules that resemble leaves at the base of leaf stalks.
- To ensure that the cut end of the stem will seal and not rot, roll the stem cutting in newspaper or place it in the shade for 24 hours.
- Place the stem in a wet rooting media container and keep it there for two days in a warm, shaded area. Give the cutting indirect sun after that. Just as needed, moisten the medium.
- Apply crushed geranium leaves to small cuts to halt the bleeding.
- Scarlet geranium is the flower that speaks of foolishness. More floral meanings can be found here.
- You won’t have to worry about those bothersome bugs because geraniums are known to be harmful to Japanese beetles.
- Keep geraniums out of the reach of curious youngsters and animals (cats, dogs) as they might cause indigestion or vomiting.
Low light, overexposure, and underwatering are common issues. Yellowing leaves are a sign that you are watering your plants either too little or too much. Try to water the geraniums evenly in this situation, and transfer them to a more sunny location.
Do I need to remove the dead geranium flowers?
Without deadheading, the blooms will soon stop blooming and have a propensity to grow sparse. Additionally, this method stops the plant from producing new seeds. When your geranium blooms start to look weak or brown, you should deadhead them.
If you want to deadhead your geraniums, you need to go a bit further into the plant and snap the stem below the node or junction, where new growth starts. You have the option of using shears or only your hands. Healthy, well-watered plants have stems that are simpler to snap.
Deadheading will foster the growth of fresh, full blooms in place of any that appear weak or less full. Work your way through your plant, doing this in all of its parts. Within a few days, new, fresh blossoms will start to appear. The entire procedure just takes a few minutes, but it can extend the life of your plants by many weeks or even months. You can either pick a few stems each day while taking care of your plants, or you can do this every couple of weeks if you have the time.
Do geraniums respond well to Miracle Grow?
Wish your life had a little more carefree beauty? Plant some geraniums, maybe. Geraniums are beautiful and low-maintenance plants that belong in planters, planting beds, and perennial borders.
Geraniums can be divided into two major groups. Zonal, fancy-leaf, ivy, perfumed, and Martha Washington (or regal) varieties of annual geraniums (Pelargonium species), which often only live for a year, are some examples. Perennial geraniums (Geranium species), which bloom continually from spring to summer, combine striking foliage with attractive blooms that emerge intermittently or continuously.
Where to Plant Geraniums
You must be aware of the type of geraniums you have in order to select the ideal planting location. With the exception of the ivy geranium, which thrives in mild shade, most annual geraniums require a location in full sun. On the other hand, depending on the variety, perennial geraniums can grow in either sunlight or shade. In the country’s southern and western regions, both types profit from shielding from the sun during the warmest time of the day.
What Kind of Soil to Use for Geraniums
Geraniums grow best in healthy, well-draining soil, which is ideal for both perennial and annual geraniums. Improve soil drainage and quality when growing geraniums in planting beds by adding 3 inches of Miracle-Gro Garden Soil for Flowers to the top 6 to 8 inches of native soil. When growing geraniums in pots, Miracle-Gro Potting Mix should be used because it is light and fluffy. For the ideal planting medium, combine garden soil and potting soil in equal portions, or fill raised beds with Miracle-Gro Raised Bed Soil.
How to Plant Geraniums
Starting with young plants, such as the premium geraniums from the Miracle-Gro Brilliant Blooms collection*, is ideal (and simplest). Geraniums, both annual and perennial, benefit from warmth, so postpone planting in the spring until all risk of frost has passed. Once the summer heat subsides in the fall, you can also plant perennial geraniums. Try planting perennial geraniums from late fall to early spring in areas with mild winters.
Geraniums range in height from 4 to 48 inches tall and 6 to 36 inches wide, depending on the variety. For information on the recommended spacing for your type of geranium, consult plant tags. Use a pot that is at least 10 inches across for annual geraniums or at least 12 inches across for perennial geraniums when planting geraniums in pots.
Geraniums should be watered thoroughly after planting, giving the root ball and surrounding soil time to absorb the water.
How to Water Geraniums
Check the soil once a week for annual geraniums, and water when the top inch is dry. During their initial growth season, keep newly planted perennial geraniums in continuously moist soil. With the exception of periods of extreme drought, perennial geraniums can typically thrive on rainfall after they are established.
How to Mulch Geraniums
After planting geraniums, cover the area with a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch to help keep the soil moist and to prevent weed growth and sun exposure. Use Scotts bagged mulch, chopped leaves, pine straw, or another material that is easily obtainable in your area.
How to Feed Geraniums
Your plants receive an excellent starting dosage of nutrients when you start with rich, nutrient-rich soil. However, you should also feed them frequently all season long for maximum results. Apply Miracle-Gro Shake ‘n Feed Rose & Bloom Plant Food to your geraniums a month after planting to give them the extra boost of nutrition they require for magnificent blooms. Make sure you adhere to label directions.
How to Grow Perennial Geraniums
Even in the coldest climates, perennial geraniums don’t require particular care to survive the winter. After the initial flower flush, cutting perennial geraniums back by around one-third can encourage more blooms. Cut stems back as necessary if hardy geraniums like “Rozanne” or “Pink Penny” spread out too quickly and widely. These vining geraniums can have up to two-thirds of their length removed, and the plants will still grow back. To encourage new growth and prevent wilted leaves, prune cranesbill geraniums to 2 to 4 inches height after flowering.
How to Use Geraniums
Annual geraniums are excellent at stealing the show in planters and flowerbeds. Regal geraniums can resist cool weather and form lovely hanging basket plants, making them an obvious choice for planting in the early spring. Ivy geraniums are very stunning. Geraniums with aromatic leaves are strong in containers and form a lovely patio display where the leaves may be stroked and enjoyed.
In gardens with some shade, perennial geraniums add much-needed color and can thrive next to mature trees. While mid-size perennial geraniums go well with lanky shrubs, shorter perennial kinds create beautiful ground covers.
Are you prepared to begin cultivating geraniums? To learn more about a product, to buy it online, or to locate a retailer near you, click on any of the product links above.