HEY NEIL, I ordered my landscaping business to plant iris and daffodil bulbs in a bed about a month ago. When I came back, I discovered that they had covered the bed with the identical large rock that I had previously used in the nearby area. Will bulbs naturally grow through rocks and bloom?
They will emerge between small to medium-sized rocks, please (up to 2 to 3 inches in diameter). Even though most of them would still find a way to grow around slightly larger stones, you wouldn’t want that kind of floral show in the bed. Based on the rock that was utilized, you (and your landscaper) must make that decision.
HEY NEIL, A very healthy 15-year-old magnolia tree is one of our possessions. We are now debating if it needs to be clipped to get rid of its lower branches. Not very frequently is that done. How should you treat them properly?
REPLY: It’s entirely a matter of preference. The magnificence of the lower, larger branches that trail back down to the ground appeals to many individuals. When you discuss cutting lower branches from our native eastern redcedar junipers, you consistently receive the same responses. However, there are those who prefer light to shine on the area beneath their trees so that grass can be grown there. If you’re not sure what you want, start observing how others have treated their trees to help you make up your mind. After that, cut each branch off one at a time, beginning with the lowest. This will offer you the chance to turn around before going any further than you might want to.
HEY NEIL, I have a substantial aspidistra bed (cast iron plant). When should I divide it if I wanted to start more?
SUMMARY: Before any new growth starts, late winter would be ideal. It should be in February. Plant the transplants reasonably near to one another because it grows slowly.
HEY NEIL, In my front yard, I’ve attempted two pairs of live oak trees in the same location during the previous eight years, but none of the four trees have gotten much bigger over that period. What is the trick to successfully caring for these trees without gardening experience?
SUBMISSION: Let’s start with the trees. Select a high-quality species that is locally adapted. By choosing live oaks, you’ve already completed that task, so cross it off your list. Second, make sure the tree you purchase is a robust, healthy member of that species. If it is stunted when you purchase it, it will remain stunted after planting. In most circumstances, plants cultivated in containers retain their vigor better than plants balled and burlapped. After that, your plant will only require water and nitrogen to survive. Keep your trees from drying out by fertilizing them with a quality lawn food every few months from March through September (no weedkillers included).
HEY NEIL, In two tiny patches of ground bordered by sidewalk in front of our house, I wish to grow a prickly pear cactus. However, I am unable to remove the grass that has grown there. What ought I to do?
COMMENT: Oh, my. I sincerely hope you’re referring to the prickly pear without a spine. Next April or May, you may use one of the glyphosate herbicides to get rid of the current green and growing grass. There won’t be any herbicidal residue in the soil if you choose a product that only contains glyphosate as an active component. But I feel compelled to warn you about the dangers of keeping any other kind of spined cactus or succulent plant next to a busy intersection. Prickly pears and other opuntias generate spines and glochids, which can be extremely harmful to humans, animals, and even small infants. The last plants I’d ever want to grow in public places are opuntias, yucca, and century plants.
HEY NEIL, Can I cut back my tough hibiscus plants? Now their stems are stripped bare. They must be returning from below, right?
SUGGESTION: Yes, go ahead and prune them now to tidy up the area. You can trim those old stems to within an inch of the ground because they are no longer necessary. Come spring, fresh vegetation will poke its head above the dirt line. You should be aware that hardy hibiscus are among the last of our perennials to reappear in the spring.
Tulips can grow in gravel, right?
By forcing bulbs to bloom out of season, you can start them indoors. Some of the bulbs that can be planted and cultivated in vases with gravel include crocuses, daffodils, tulips, and irises. Before planting and being exposed to heat, the bulbs must be chilled in the refrigerator.
Can flowers be cultivated beneath rocks?
Since I also employ rocks in the landscape, I won’t really lecture on their sins. However, I’ll list a few advantages and disadvantages and concentrate on how to grow plants successfully in a rock bed.
First, though, a word about the rock. We are always drawn to decorative features while choosing a landscaping rock. But I’ve had to learn the hard way to prioritize function first. It is difficult to maintain rock free of leaves and other detritus, which disintegrate and aid in the germination of seeds. It can be challenging, but with some trial and error, using a leaf blower to remove dirt from landscape rock does work nicely. Small boulders and lightweight lava rock are both easily blown out of the bed. Large, hefty rocks are more stable but can effectively trap debris, making cleanup more difficult. Small rock compacts and does not collect dirt easily, making removal with a low blower setting quite simple.
The use of a rock that won’t break apart and collapse is what I think to be most crucial. That negates the entire point of utilizing permanent rock as opposed to mulch, which decomposes and requires regular replacement. The rock that has crumbled also contributes swiftly to the organic materials that encourages weed growth. A quality hard rock will endure forever. River rock comes in a variety of sizes and is both smooth and hard. Lava rock has an intriguing hue and is rough and fire-hardened. Moreover, trap rock is fire-resistant. Of course, granite and quartzite are also incredibly tough materials. Simple surface scratching to see if you can loosen any particles will usually identify softer stones that are prone to cracking. These are typically made of sandstone, limestone, or dolomite.
Since rock provides nothing for your plants or the soil and does not provide the best circumstances for growth, there needs to be a sizable benefit. Cost and labor are that benefit in my opinion. Every year for 20 years, I spent thousands of dollars on mulch purchases. Since I bought mulch by the truckload and scooped it up personally, I did get a lot of mulch for my money. However, it also required wheelbarrowing massive loads of mulch up and down hills after being removed from a drop side truck. fantastic workout However, I am no longer so young. A large portion of my mulched area was an ongoing operation to encourage ground cover to fill in between what are now giant evergreens. However, I favor rock for the area around my house’s foundation. despite of shortcomings.
Yes, using landscaping rock has several advantages, particularly for foundation beds. If you choose the proper rock, it is primarily a one-time buy. To me, that’s a really significant advantage. Additionally, you can choose a rock type and color that complements your house and landscaping. That significantly boosts curb attractiveness. I’ve already had two significant victories. Regarding foundation plantings, we normally make an effort to choose plants that will thrive in the area and fit the climate for a minimum of 10 years, ideally much longer. Therefore, if you are doing it correctly and are very lucky, removing rock to replace plants should be a very unusual event.
Although foundation landscaping has changed much in recent years, we still enjoy adding some annuals, edibles, and perennials with shorter lifespans that have flowers. We are currently having some issues with that rock. To start, you really do need a porous landscape fabric underneath the rock to stop it from becoming buried and embedded in the ground. (Pls refrain from using plastic) The fabric will aid in preventing weeds from emerging from seeds and roots that are already present in the soil while yet allowing water to permeate. Weeds can now escape through every hole that is made for a plant. Weed seeds will blow into the rock and fall there, sprouting all kinds of things that need to be pulled out. Weeds, though, are a constant problem for us no matter what, so there is nothing new there.
In general, plants dislike being surrounded by rock and fabric since it can restrict their natural growth. Rock is particularly difficult for perennial plants to grow in. When it’s necessary to remove and divide the perennials, the rock and fabric may also present a challenge. In the sun during the day, rock also becomes very warm and holds that heat well. Plants and their roots may become heated as a result, which may be harmful, especially to delicate plants. With the increased heat, some might not be able to survive. For the most part, these problems may be solved with the right planting, maintenance, and plant selection.
When choosing plants, keep in mind:
In rock with landscape fabric, the majority of shrubs, evergreens, and ornamental trees will fare reasonably well.
Choose perennials that can survive without special care, such as native varieties. Consider particular plants for rock gardens.
Tips for using landscaping cloth to plant in rocks:
Planning plant location properly to account for mature size will help you avoid relocating or replacing plants. Although trees and shrubs normally reach maturity at approximately 10 years, they can continue to develop for many years.
Make holes in the landscape fabric that can hold the entire root ball of the perennials. Eventually, you will need to dig it up to divide it, so keep that in mind.
Make holes in the landscaping fabric that can hold the trunks of shrubs and trees when they are fully grown. If the fabric causes an issue, the trunk may girdle itself or grow directly around the fabric.
Leave at least 4 to 6 inches of bare soil around the base of plants and keep the rock away from them. Although the soil can be covered with organic mulch or compost, it shouldn’t get too close to tree or shrub trunks—not by more than a few inches.
Make sure to choose particular spots to fence off if you wish to plant annuals. Planting can be made simple every year by using organic mulch that isn’t covered in fabric.
Until they are established, keep an eye on young plants to make sure they are not overheating and that the soil is not being dried out or overwatered.
The soil behind foundation plantings may not get as much moisture as the exposed soil, especially if you put landscape fabric and decorative rock. If you leave enough space around each plant, the water will have a better chance of contacting the soil and getting to the roots. Use of more than one layer of landscape fabric can further reduce water absorption, thus avoid doing so. Also keep in mind that even mulched foundation beds beneath overhangs may only get very little water. Make sure the plants that are closer to the foundation get enough moisture.
Can bulbs be planted in stone?
Put pebbles in the container. Put bulbs in the pebbles root-side down, about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way up the bulb. Fill the container with water until it just touches the bottom of the bulbs. Keep an eye out for the growth of roots in approximately a week and the appearance of blossoms in 4-6 weeks. Place in a well-lit place, but not necessarily in the sun. Keep an eye on the water levels and add water as necessary to keep the roots always covered. If plants start to grow tall and lanky, secure the stems with a ribbon. If you reside in a warm environment (zones 8–11), you can pluck stems once they turn brown and plant them in the ground to rebloom. Otherwise, discard plants once bulbs have finished blooming and blossoms have withered.
Tulips can they pierce through gravel?
Bulbs can pass through little pieces of slate and gravel. Slate and gravel placed on bare soil, however, might later become a great annoyance; in my opinion, composted bark or bark chippings might be preferable (and far less expensive); just be sure to leave room around the bushes’ trunks.
“I am not lost; I am aware of my whereabouts. But I could not know where I am. Pooh the Bear
Can flowers grow through gravel?
Some bulbs, like crocus and alliums, will push through the mulch of gravel and gather together to form clumps. Gravel gardens do well with xeriscape plants.
Clear off a section of land
Making room for your stone garden within your lawn or yard is the first step in creating one. Rock gardens typically rise somewhat above the surrounding ground. When building your own raised bed, you must first lay a course of rocks and dirt before building on top of it.
If there is currently grass on the area you want to use for your rock garden, you should first decide what you want to do with the grass. You do not want grass to subsequently begin to sprout within and outside of your rock garden. You can proceed to the second step if you already have a cleared area.
You can place your rocks down after first digging up the grass as a possible solution. However, another simpler way is to spread a layer of newspapers over the grass before covering them with earth to keep them in place.
The layer of newspapers will eventually smother the grass and cause it to decay by preventing it from receiving essential nutrients like sunlight and water. The newspaper is a smart idea because it won’t harm the garden in any other way and will eventually disintegrate.
However, even before the grass begins to decompose, you will already have finished the first stage of clearing space for your rock garden.
Plot Your Design
You can move on to arranging your placement after putting down a layer of newspaper if the space has already been cleared. Planning out exactly what you want to do with your land and location is a fantastic idea. To avoid having to perform additional heavy lifting, it is crucial to complete this before you begin working.
Using marking paint that is upside down, you can sketch out the design. In this manner, you will have a clear vision of how the stone garden ought to appear. To aid in your planning, you might seek for some rock garden ideas.
Another helpful suggestion is to place materials or newspapers on top of the cleared area to improve soil drainage. If weeds are a problem in that location, you can also add a layer of weed-resistant fabric.
Choose Your Rocks and Lay Down the First Layer
The following step is to choose the rocks you’ll be working with. You can either choose the rocks you’ll be working with from what you already have on hand at your neighborhood gardening or landscaping store, or you can choose to buy some from stone suppliers. The majority of small stones and rocks ought to be accessible from gardening or landscaping supply stores, possibly close to the mulch. You must, however, get in touch with quarries and stone providers if you need big boulders or rocks.
You can lay down the initial layer of stones and soil if you already have your stones and rocks, or at least some basic ones. To make that elevated bed for your rock garden, do this. However, if you want a broader, more sweeping appearance, you should lay your large boulders first and use them as your design guidelines. To aid you, search out some rock garden designs or suggestions once more.
Lay out a circle of rocks as the raised bed’s perimeter for your rock garden; you may, of course, use any other form you like, but a circle is advised for the base. In this instance, you can keep the base’s width at around four feet in order to create a tiny rock garden bed. Use your larger, less appealing pebbles for this bottom layer; this is an excellent option.
This is advantageous for two reasons. First, by using your biggest rocks, you can skip lifting them to add the next layer. Second, because the first layer won’t be as visible, it’s a good idea to utilize the less appealing rocks in the first layer and then highlight the more beautiful rocks in the second layer.
Add in the Soil
You need to add soil to fill it up once the initial layer of rocks is in place. Plants that require a soil type that allows for good drainage are typically used in rock gardens. This indicates that you must utilize sand-based soil.
If your soil is clay-like rather than sandy by coincidence, you can add some sand and compost to it to promote improved drainage.
Incorporate the dirt with a shovel into the rock-made circle or bed. It is a good idea to walk on the soil after it has been placed in the bed to help it settle and pack down. You will later add plants to your rock garden that are commonly utilized in rock gardens and prefer high drainage soil in order to compliment the sandy and high drainage soil.
Lay Down the Second Layer of Rocks
You must now create a smaller raised bed inside the previous one in order to accommodate the second layer of the raised bed for the rock garden. Simply create a second circle out of pebbles, this time with a smaller diameter than the first, to create a circle inside a circle.
Make sure the second circle of the rock garden is small enough to leave a sufficiently broad perimeter between the first circle and itself while creating this smaller circle. The space between the two rings needs to be large enough to accommodate the plants. In addition, the second circle’s size needs to be large enough to accommodate a tiny plant.
You will have the lighter stone left over to utilize for the second layer of the rock garden because you used the heaviest stones for the first layer. You will find it simpler to move and raise these stones to use for the second layer as a result. If you feel that any heavier stones or rocks are particularly attractive or beautiful, you may choose to save one or two for the second layer. Due to their proximity to the viewer’s eyes, the second layer of rocks will be easier to see and attract their attention.