By the time the house was organized and packed, I only had three days left to relocate plants, including the tree peonies, despite the daily forecast calling for rain. Some people might have said that by that time, their buds were the size of hens’ eggs, but I choose to believe that they were the size and form of soft-serve ice cream cones with those adorable pointy tops.
Dig around the entire plant to the drip line to start prepping it for the journey.
I just had a shovel and trash bags to wrap around the roots as I got ready for the delicate procedure.
Holding onto the plant from all sides, gently remove it from its prior location.
I carefully probed the rain-soaked, soggy earth in between downpours in an effort to prevent harming the roots and drip system. I massaged the earth on each side until the tree peony broke free, anticipating a sizable root ball to be present as well.
Rather, the roots were left exposed as the composty ground collapsed. Did I also mention that, in my haste to prepare the house, I forgot to take down the supports for the plant’s growth before it produced new foliage and stems? With nowhere else to go but with them, the metal grids were now hanging precariously between the roots and vegetation.
No matter how meticulously I worked on each tree peony, this scene kept happening. Knowing that I would have to do this all over again when planting them in their new garden the following year, I carefully placed them into the garbage bags and transported them to their new temporary residence. Upon arriving, I spent hours soaking them in water while attempting to dig holes that were the proper size without damaging the double, yes, double layers of landscaping fabric that were underneath the six inches of mulch in the rental home’s beds.
“..when the plants are dormant, in the fall or very early spring, is the perfect period for transplanting peonies.
How well do tree peonies transplant?
No garden should be without the majestic, long-lasting woody shrubs known as tree peonies. Some types have plants that can produce fragrant flowers up to 10 inches in diameter and grow to heights of 45. Tree peonies are hardy from Zones 4 to 8, do well in the Northeast and Midwest, and flourish in climates with cold winters and hot summers. Tree peonies can be forced into dormancy by gardening in Zone 9: remove all foliage in November, leaving the woody stems, and do not water or fertilize. Hopefully, this will cause the plant to develop blossom buds.
Tree peonies may take three years to develop and begin blooming, so they are not a plant for the impatient gardener. Also keep in mind that it could take several seasons for a new plant’s flowers to bloom to their full potential. Having said that, there is nothing quite like a Tree Peony in full bloom; it is a breathtaking sight.
Before they blossom, Tree Peonies require some time to acclimate; it’s not uncommon for a plant to hold off until its third spring. Additionally, the first spring following planting, Tree Peonies may take longer to emerge from dormancy. Although your plant might appear to be dead while its neighbors are coming to life, it will soon reawaken.
Light/Watering: Flowers need some light protection from the sweltering afternoon sun. In China and Japan, little parasols are used to screen the plants from the sun. Plant tree peonies where they will be shielded from the winter and summer winds that can dry them out. Once established, Tree Peonies are exceptionally drought tolerant. Avoid overwatering plants, and keep them away from automatic irrigation systems. Prior to heavily watering, allow the soil to dry to a pH of 4. The roots will be killed by excessive watering, which is a common cause of failure.
Tree peonies require fertilized soil with a pH that is somewhat above neutral or close to neutral. When planting, add a few handfuls of lime if your soil is acidic. Remove the green plastic ribbon that is wrapped around the stem’s main portion before planting the plant at the depth specified by the ribbon. In order to stimulate the scion to develop its own roots if the ribbon has become dislodged, plant the top of the graft union, which is visible as a bulge on the main stem, approximately 46 below the soil’s surface. In the spring, topdress plants with an inch of aged manure or compost. During the growing season, foliar feeding with fish emulsion is beneficial.
Pests/diseases: On rare cases, you might discover a boring insect-caused hole in the wooden stem. Using a thin wire or by just cutting out the troublesome part, you might be able to kill the larva in the tunnel. Like Herbaceous Peonies, Tree Peonies may contract fungal infections that result in leaf blackening and wilting. As soon as unhealthy foliage is seen, it should be removed. In the fall, make sure to pick up any plant pieces that have fallen. Spray with a fungicide early in the spring and repeat the treatments for a few weeks if fungal diseases start to be an issue. Deadhead flowers regularly and avoid letting dropped petals get stuck in the plant or on the ground.
Companions for Tree Peonies are Hellebores, Alchemilla, Leucojum, Epimedium, and Siberian Irises. Underplant with bulbs that bloom in the spring if your plants have a tendency to be leggy.
Pruning: Unlike their herbaceous siblings, Tree Peonies should never be cut back to the ground. After plants have flowered, remove any broken or damaged stems by pruning. Once your plant has matured and is thriving, you might wish to make a small opening in the center to promote flowering on the taller stems and improve airflow. When Tree Peonies are grafted into Herbaceous Peony roots, the rootstock will occasionally send up a shoot from the plant’s base. These need to be taken out right away.
Dividing/Transplanting: Tree Peonies do not require division, and it is impossible to do it with numerous plants. When dormant, young plants can be transplanted; when digging the plant, try to keep as much soil around the roots as you can.
End-of-Season Care: After a deadly frost, remove all leaves, including leaf petioles, and dump it elsewhere, not in the compost pile. Mulched new plants should also have burlap or another material wrapped around them to block winter winds in the coldest climates.
Topdress plants with an inch of old manure or compost in the early spring. Keep an eye out for symptoms of a fungus infection and administer treatment as necessary. Remove any shoots that appear from the rootstock.
Mid-Spring: Due to their heavy blossoms, certain types may require assistance. To increase airflow, thin out any foliage that is too densely packed inside the plant.
Avoid overwatering in the late spring. Deadhead blooming promptly, and take out old flowers and petals from the garden.
In the summer, water plants only when the earth has dried to a depth of four inches. Fish emulsion feeding of the foliage is preferred.
Fall: Tree Peonies are woody shrubs; do not cut them back. After the first frost, remove all foliage; do not compost. Mulch newly planted vegetation and vegetation produced in colder climates, and if brisk winter winds are predicted, wrap vegetation in burlap or another windproof material.
Where should a tree peony be planted?
The majority of tree peony are hardy in zones 4–8, although some cultivars are hardy as low as zone 3. They thrive best in regions with hot summers and cold winters for dormancy. Tree peony prefer some dappled to light shade from the sweltering afternoon sun while being typically listed as full sun plants. The lovely blossoms may fade and wither more quickly if there is too much bright sunlight.
They require sufficient drainage and love slightly alkaline soil. Additionally, tree peonies favor a location free from competing tree or shrub roots. With perennial companion plants, they thrive.
Instead of in the sweltering summer, new tree peony plants should be planted in the spring or fall. At initially, they may take up to three years to become established and begin to develop and bloom. Tree peony do not transfer well and may tolerate drought once they are established. A plant can live up to 100 years if it is placed appropriately and is happy with its surroundings.
Gardening for tree peonies is not any more difficult than gardening for herbaceous peonies. However, tree peonies should never be pruned back in the fall, unlike herbaceous peonies. Tree peony should never be trimmed or shaped; only dead, unhealthy, or infected wood should be removed.
They may benefit from a yearly feeding of iron sulphate and bone meal in the spring since they have high iron and phosphate requirements. A general-purpose fertilizer like 5-10-5, which is higher in phosphorus than nitrogen and potassium, should also be applied regularly to tree peony.
The best way to water tree peony is directly at the root zone because they can be vulnerable to fungus illnesses. Borers can also harm them, so be vigilant about looking for evidence of their activity in the wood.
When ought to peonies be moved?
Peonies can be left in the garden unattended for a long time. But on occasion, it’s important to relocate established plants. To improve flowering, move peonies that are sheltered by tall trees or shrubs to a sunny location. The peony may need to be relocated in order to redesign a perennial bed or border. Plants that are large and robust can be dug up and divided for further growth.
The ideal month for transplanting established peonies is September. Cut the peony stems at or just above ground level to start. Next, thoroughly excavate each plant’s perimeter and its base. Keep as much of the root system as you can. Replant the peony right away in a sunny, well-drained area.
Large peony clumps must be divided in a number different ways. Shake the clump carefully to remove any loose soil from the root system after you’ve dug up the plant. Section off the cluster using a big knife. Each division needs to establish a strong root system and at least three to five buds (eyes). Smaller divisions will take longer to mature into beautiful plants.
The optimal conditions for peonies are full light and well-drained soil. Choose an area that receives at least six to eight hours of direct sun each day when choosing a planting site. Avoid standing in the shade next to big trees and plants. Compost, peat moss, or leaf mold used in significant quantities can typically improve poorly drained soils.
When planting a peony, make sure the hole is big enough to fit the plant’s root system comfortably. With the buds one to two inches below the soil’s surface, place the peony plant in the hole. (Peonies frequently don’t bloom successfully if the buds are deeper than two inches.) As you backfill the hole, compact the soil around the plant as you fill it with soil. then thoroughly rinse. Peonies should be spaced three to four feet apart.
Apply a four to six inch layer of mulch over the newly planted peonies in the late fall (mid-November to early December). Pine needles and weed-free straw are great mulching materials. Mulching keeps the soil from repeatedly freezing and thawing in the winter, which could lift the plants out of the ground. Early in the spring, before growth starts, remove the mulch.
Peonies that were transplanted might not bloom well the first spring. However, by the third or fourth year, the number of flowers should increase quickly.
Do peonies enjoy moving around?
Peonies can be left in the garden unattended for a long time. However, occasionally it becomes necessary to relocate plants. To improve flowering, move partially shaded peonies to a sunny spot. When rebuilding a perennial bed or border, plants might need to be relocated.
Can you split up a tree peony?
Grafting is the main technique used to propagate tree peony. It takes a lot of time and effort to complete this treatment. Your favorite tree peony may be multiplied much more easily by division. This method is comparable to that used to divide herbaceous peonies.
Not all tree peony make suitable division candidates. Only those that have their own roots growing in them will be able to successfully divide. It is NOT recommended to separate tree peony with just one or two primary trunks. A tree peony with this type of growth pattern probably depends on a sizable grafted herbaceous peony nurse root and is not growing on its own roots.
Also, keep in mind that tree peony develop slowly before opting to try to divide an older, well-established plant. Before divisions reach the splendor of a mother plant’s peak bloom, many years will pass. Having stated that, let’s start chopping!
This tree peony’s two main trunks make it an unlikely candidate for division. In this instance, it’s even feasible that the plant is still dependent on its grafted herbaceous understock and isn’t even growing from its own roots. Using this form to split a plant may not produce any viable divisions.
At the base, you’ll notice a lot of strong stems. This is a sign of a root system that spreads outward.
Remove the leaves from a peony before digging it up. Dig around the plant’s drip line to start.
After a little soil has been worked loose, take some by hand from the base. This will aid in releasing the roots from the soil.
Do some additional digging around the plant. Be patient; strong divisions require healthy roots. Digging hastily and carelessly can easily break roots.
The plant should just slip out of the earth with a little gentle prying once enough soil has been removed.
Since most tree peony are grafted, it is likely that even a well established plant will experience problems.
will keep both its own roots and the original herbaceous graft root. In this image
Both are readily apparent. In contrast to the tree peony, the herbaceous graft root is black and bulbous.
We prefer to give the plant a few hours to “relax.” We apply damp burlap to the roots after wetting the roots. The roots become slightly less brittle and less likely to break throughout the division process as a result of the modest drying that is permitted.
An old, large kitchen knife and a solid pair of garden snips are the two major tools you’ll need. Before beginning, make sure to clean your tools with isopropyl alcohol. Through the wounds you will make, this sterilization will stop pathogenic germs and fungi from spreading.
Remove the herbaceous nurse root if it’s still there before starting the divisions.
The old herbaceous peony nursing root can be thrown away once it has been removed. Or you could try planting it again. It’s possible that it will start to develop little, previously dormant buds. If you do this, you should plan on having to wait a few years before your new herbaceous peony blooms.
You can now begin dividing. The first step is to determine where the plant appears to organically divide. You can now picture the cuts you will need to make. A division needs sufficient roots as well as buds for above-ground growth in order to be viable.
Search for naturally occurring divisions with what appear to be strong stems and roots. Keep an eye out for the fresh tree peony branches that are emerging from the plant’s crown. Take cautious not to harm these.
It’s frequently advisable to try chopping the plant in half first. At this point, you might need to summon a helper.
You can decide to divide your plant as much as possible, or you might just wish to cut it in half.
Cutting through the plant’s hard, woody top will undoubtedly be necessary for any division that goes beyond a simple split. Keep your assistant nearby to assist with this as well.
Clean up your divisions after you’re satisfied with them. Remove root pieces that have turned black and trim ragged cuts.
We advise cutting back the top growth by as much as 1/3 to make sure the above-ground buds won’t place an undue pressure on the roots.
Remove all of the woody top growth from extremely small divisions with weak roots in favor of fresh, robust buds.
The outcome is:
There are several scions to graft, including three giant plants, one medium, two small, and one very small. Replant any fresh divisions right away. The plant will take longer to adapt to its new environment if the roots dry out.