Allow me to offer catmint (also known as Nepeta) to you if you’re seeking for a perennial that has long-lasting blooms, can withstand heat, is pest and disease resistant, and is simple to grow. I continue to include this top performer on my list of the best drought-tolerant and deer-resistant plants despite years of testing “plants are a must. It occupies a central place in my beautiful landscape and adds interest throughout the year. It has lovely gray-green foliage that appears in April in orderly, tidy heaps. The shrub practically erupts by May with a profusion of delicate lavender-blue blooms. The plant continues to display an abundance of color well into late summer or early fall after the initial flush of flowers. Even after the blossoms have faded, the floral show is enhanced by colorful calyces that match the blossoms’ color. If the leaves is left standing through the winter, it turns a pleasant soft silvery gray tint.
This herbaceous perennial belongs to the Lamiaceae family of plants, which also contains gigantic hyssop, bee balm, rosemary, and lavender. These plants have opposite leaves, two-lipped blooms, square stems, and aromatic foliage in addition to other characteristics in common. Many individuals mistake catmint for catnip (Nepeta cataria). Catnip and catmint are closely related, although catnip has a stronger scent and less decorative value than catmint.
Catmint like team games. Catmint is a fantastic alternative if you adore the traditional pairing of lavender and roses but find that lavender is too temperamental to grow in this location. Catmint can be used to coat the bare skin similarly to lavender “rose bushes’ branches. A lovely contrast to the vibrant tones of the roses is provided by the plant’s cool-toned foliage and blossoms.
Catmint complements the majority of other hues nicely, but it looks especially lovely when combined with hues from the red to blue color range. Irises look wonderful when they are grown in my own garden. It complements the medium lavender-blue iris “Crater Lake” and the blue-violet tones of the iris “Swingtown” in particular. The vertical outlines and deeper lavender hues of the Allium cultivars “Gladiator,” “Giganteum,” or “Purple Sensation” contrast pleasantly with the mounded shape. Catmint blends wonderfully with the purple foliage of Heuchera ‘Plum Pudding’ or the flowing burgundy foliage of Japanese Maple ‘Garnet’ as spring transitions into summer. Another excellent ally for catmint is ‘Purple Ruffles’ basil, which is also tasty! Catmint goes well with yellow-flowering plants like Hemerocallis “Happy Returns,” Achillea “Coronation Gold,” or Coreopsis “Early Sunrise.”
The hybrid Nepeta x faassenii produces the most well-liked catmint cultivars that are farmed for commercial purposes in this nation. The flowers have the name of Dutch nurseryman J. H. Faassen, whose nursery this hybrid initially emerged. N. x Faassenii flowers are sterile, thus deadheading is not necessary to stop them from self-seeding.
While the N. X faassenii family’s members are sterile, some closely related species, including the ones listed below, are fertile and may require deadheading to stop reseeding:
- Russian cat mint (N. sibirica) Plant that is erect and tall (two to three feet), with broad green leaves and deep blue blooms.
- Asian catmint (N. subsessilis)
- This catmint kind loves damp soil over the other species. Although it can tolerate direct sunlight, it prefers some shade.
- Orange catmint (N. govaniana)
- This rare species, which is indigenous to the Himalayas, has yellow blooms that emerge later in the summer.
- Nepeta with veins (N. nervosa)
- This plant is indigenous to India, grows one to two feet tall, and has leaves that are three to four inches long with strong veins.
- Turkish catmint (N. parnassica)
- This catmint, which grows to an astounding four to six feet tall and wide, is more frequently found in European gardens than in those in this country.
The Chicago Botanic Garden compared 36 catmints between 1999 and 2006 with the aim of identifying exceptional individuals in terms of their attractive features, disease and pest resistance, cultural adaptation, and winter hardiness (the botanical garden is located in zone 5b). Based on their heavy flower output over a lengthy bloom period, the following four best performers of the 22 highly rated catmints obtained five-star exceptional ratings:
- ‘Joanna Reed’ plants are 24 inches tall and 48 inches broad, with lavender-blue flowers. It bears the name of the deceased Pennsylvania gardener who found it.
Should I reduce catmint throughout the winter?
In many places, catmint dies back with the frost, and the dead growth needs to be removed in order to make room for the spring’s new, fresh foliage. Depending on the climate where you are, there are different times to do this. It is preferable to wait until the spring thaw to prune catmint in regions with long, hard winters since the dead growth can act as insulation from the cold.
When a plant has gone dormant or has died back due to the cold in a milder region, it is recommended to cut the entire plant back in the fall. Because division will occur with the winter pruning, keep an eye out during the growth season for indications that the plant needs to be divided, such as less blooming.
Use precise pruning shears to cut the entire plant back to the ground, then get rid of the stems. Using a sharp spade, divide the root ball into numerous pieces, each with an equal number of roots and stems, if the plant has to be divided. Place the divisions in a bed with wet, quick-draining soil that is sunny or lightly shaded. Larger catmint kinds, like Six Hills Giant (Nepeta x “Six Hills Giant”), should be planted 3 feet apart, while more common varieties should be planted 1 1/2 to 2 feet apart.
Does catmint survive the winter?
This perennial flower that thrives in cool climates often features blue trumpet-shaped flower clusters and grey-green leaves with a distinctive mint scent. Even though it’s frequently called catnip, cats don’t find it to be as alluring as the real stuff. However, I’ve seen that if given the chance, our cat will indulge herself. Although the plant can reach a height of 3 feet, it frequently sprawls, creating a grey-green ground cover. In the late spring and early summer, it blooms profusely. In hot temperatures in the middle of the summer, it frequently temporarily stops flowering before starting up again in the early fall, especially if the plant is vigorously trimmed down. Catmint blooms are beloved by butterflies, hummingbirds, and other useful insects.
In our location, catmint is resilient, though certain types may require winter protection in colder climates. Despite the fact that it may be grown from seed, it is considerably simpler to buy plants from a nearby nursery or get divisions from a friend’s garden in the early spring when it first begins to grow. From early spring through early fall, sow. It is simple to divide catmint. Catmint should be planted in full or partial sun in humus-rich, compost-added soil that is well-drained. Plant where it will receive afternoon shade if you’re growing in one of our region’s warmer areas. In the garden, space plants 1 to 2 feet apart.
Water newly planted plants well. They may be resistant of drought once they have grown. To help keep weeds at bay and the soil continuously moist, mulch with bark and spread compost around the base of plants in the spring.
If you aggressively deadhead flowers and prune the plant back by two-thirds after each flush of blooms, you may keep catmint in practically constant bloom from late spring until fall. After a few years, springtime division of the plant will encourage renewed development and result in the production of more plants for friends and other plantings. Catmint doesn’t self-sow because it has few pests and sterile seeds.
The traditional cottage garden plant catmint frequently grows with peonies, roses, coreopsis, and delphiniums. It’s a fantastic filler plant to add color and green foliage between later blooming flowers because of its spreading tendency. It thrives when planted in rock gardens next to walls so that it can cascade over them. It can look a little rangy, so it’s not the best option for more formal settings.
With blue-violet flowers and a neater appearance than other types since it doesn’t spread as much, Walker’s Low is a more recent variation.
White Wonder and “Snowflake” are rare white blooming plants that only reach a height of one foot.
The enormous plant and bright blue flowers of Six Hills Giant are well recognized.
Dark blue flowers on 1 to 2 foot tall stems are produced by Blue Wonder.
Spreads catmint quickly?
Plants that grow quickly called catmints. They start out in the spring by growing neat tiny piles of tidy new leaves. This spreads widely swiftly when plants start to form their flower buds. Walker’s Low is one of the cultivars that is grown the most frequently. But despite its name, this plant is in no way low-growing. These plants grow rapidly to their full size, which is around 3 feet tall by 3 feet broad. Many of the catmints grow leggy and flop open once their impressive flowering display is over. If this is the case, giving the plants a good cutback will quickly fix the problem. If you’re lucky, this will stimulate a second set of blossoms in addition to a wonderful new flush of growth.
Catmints’ hardiness and tolerance of poor soil conditions are two of their best qualities. Look no farther if you’ve previously struggled with growing anything in dense, dry clay. Catmint can take it and continue to flourish. But it’s crucial to remember that some plants do enjoy some sunshine. Although they can tolerate some shade, they are considerably more likely to flop open. It’s also crucial to keep in mind that many catmint species have a tendency to spread like weeds in gardens. If this worries you, opt for sterile types like “Walker’s Low” that won’t spread and create any further issues. Also recognized for withstanding hard winters is catmint.
Should I prune my catmint once it blooms?
I make an effort to visit the garden at least once per week to identify the upcoming task. I’m pruning, doing some light weeding, and keeping an eye out for new garden problems right now. On this day, February 8, 2020, I can see that the catmint needs a haircut. They’re wearing a grayish-brown coat from the autumn 2017 collection and they appear pretty winter-haggard.
One of my favorite groundcovers is Nepeta x faassenii, most commonly referred to as catmint. The list of stress-free and simple garden plants undoubtedly includes this sun-loving perennial, which blooms profusely in the summer, is an excellent pollinator plant, and is strong as nails. This cat can be cut back at any time of the year, as severely as you like, and as frequently as you choose.
If you’re preparing for the test, you should know that Nepeta x faassenii and its cultivars are sterile crossbreeds of Persian catmint, Nepeta racemosa, and lesser catmint, Nepeta nepetella. From mid-spring through the fall, masses of violet to dusky-sky blue flowers can be anticipated with very little irrigation. During the summer, if the plant begins to appear overly flowered or worn out, trim it to a height of 6 inches and wait a week.
The plant under consideration today is depicted above. Old, gray growth is visible and is pleading to be carried away and dumped on the enormous compost heap in the sky. A tiny bit of green may be seen peeking through, along with some much younger growth far below.
The plant would currently appear happier and there would be much less grey growth if I had clipped this back at least once throughout the summer.
The new growth is easily seen when you pull the plant to one side. I’ll go right to the good things by cutting everything else. Take note of how the green above and below the plant differs in hue. The yellow-green color (above) is peeling off, exposing the grey-green color (below).
It was far too simple. With my straight nose clippers, it required 12 cuts. With my felcos, I could have finished it in four. I cut the entire plant down to a height of about 2 inches.
I’m done now! Walk away if you feel comfortable with a few dead stalks sticking out. You’ve finished.
Let’s move a little closer if you’re still reading. If those stems are driving you crazy, either remove the entire stem or snip-prune each one back to just above something green.
How should catmint be used in the fall?
Catmint and I have a love-hate relationship. If you have a LOT of space for it to take over, it’s a terrific plant for providing cold tones to a space. Fortunately, catmint can be severely trimmed at any time of the year.
You can trim these back in the fall to just a few inches above the ground, but your garden will have a hole in it until they grow back flush in the spring.
If catmint is the cornerstone of your perennial border, regular summers pruning should be combined with more restrained trims of around half the plant’s height during the fall.
My catmint should I deadhead it?
Basic catmint maintenance is simple. Catmint plants need constant watering until they get established. Mulch will aid in moisture retention and control weed growth. Pinch back plants after they reach a height of a few inches (8 cm) to encourage bushier growth.
Throughout the summer and fall, catmint blooms. Deadheading faded blossoms encourages new blossoming. It may also assist in avoiding reseeding. However, Nepeta x faassenii, often known as Faassen’s catmint, does not require deadheading because it is sterile. In the fall or after harvest, shear the plants back to half their original size.
Does catmint withstand frost?
Catnip has a good level of cold tolerance and thrives in zones 3 through 9. However, growing catnip outside can be problematic in particularly cold winters or in colder areas. It might be important to offer catnip plants some protection and additional care throughout the winter if you want them to return healthy and productively each spring. This is crucial if you reside in the cooler, northern regions of its growing region.
How can I grow catmint in the winter?
Pruning catmint in the winter or late autumn offers many advantages. It will prevent catmint from toppling over onto nearby plants, eliminate areas where pests can overwinter, and maintain the garden bed’s orderly appearance until the arrival of new growth in the spring. The plant should be fully dormant at this point, which usually occurs after many harsh frosts have been applied to it. Catmint is not one of the many perennials whose seedpods serve as food for wildlife. According to the University of Vermont Department of Plant and Soil Science, since the seeds are useless to birds, the entire plant can be severely pruned.
For the winter months, the University of Maryland Cooperative Extension Service advises trimming perennials like catmint back to a height of 2 to 4 inches. Use strong pruning shears or hedge trimmers to remove the entire plant by cutting across it. When removing the stems, don’t worry about being careful; catmint tolerates vigorous handling. Instead of composting them, put all dead stems and seed pods in a green waste container. The plants’ surrounding dead, falling leaves and seed pods should also be raked up and thrown away.